Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

I'm starting on the side panels. What would be easier to glue the 4x8 plywood together first then draw and cut or draw and cut the panels, then glue them?

I recommend gluing the side and bottom panels and then lauing out the panels and cutting. This assume that you have space to lay out the panels. I built three idential height saw horses. I used the 2x4s that I planned to use for the basket mold and sheets of plywood to make a table for this process.

http://www.amateurboatbuilding.com/justright/Chap04.htm

When the panels are cut out, I recommend using the panels as patterns and cutting out the fiberglass fabric. Wrap up the glass and set it aside until time to apply to the hull.

In the last boat I built, (the Otter 16/Lissa), I had a very detailed dimensioned nesting. I was able to cut all four side panels out of two sheets of plywood. While I still had all the layout lines on the plywood, I laid out a reference line on both halves of the panel. I was able to lay a taut monofilament line along the reference lines so I could accurately line up the two panel halves.

Thanks Justin, I'm doing just that. I was able to find 2 20' long 2x4 that were very straight, so I only needed two saw horses. But the rest of the table idea will be just as your idea. Hopefully I can start putting together the bottom and sides by the end of next week. Pictures coming soon

Sounds like you are on the right track. We'll all look forward to the pictures.

bottom chimes done. on to the sides and hope to be 3d by the end of next week.

justin if you have pictures of the inside of your vacuum idea, I really need to cut down on the saw dust.

I originally made the water trap connected to a whimpy shop vac. Late in the game, the shop vac died and I replaced it with a Home Depot Rigid brand shop vac. This one is far superior to the old one. Best of all, Home Depot sells several levels of filters so you can take your choice for fine dust filtering at slightly higher cost.As I remember, the Home Depot shop vac comes with a lifetime guarantee on the motor which is the part most likely to fail with the FG dust. I use the small diameter optional hose set.

I have an industrial strength orbital sander which comes with a hose dust collector. I found a universal hose size fitting at Home Depot which I use to connect up the sander to the shop vac.

In your picture, I hope I don't see an unfair curve at the forward glue joint??

Justin,
Thanks for the info on the vacuum.
In the picture, there was a cordless drill under one of the panels and the angle of the camera.
I double check both panels and the measurements are right on the mark.

You need to get a vacuum bag for the shop vac you are using. Or buy a shop vac that is capable of using these bags. Home Depot and Lowes both sells the vacuums and bags. The filter will get clogged with fine dust and you will find yourself cleaning it out every 5 minutes if your lucky to go that long.

The bigger the vacuum the bigger the bag it can use. The bags arent super cheap but they hold a lot of dust. If you go to use the vacuum for something other than the dust then take the bag out and use the supplied canister for collection so you don't waste bag space with larger debris.

[imghttp://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/userpics/50037/normal_2012-009.JPG][/img]
Starting to see how big it really is, now that the side walls are almost done.
Thanks Casey. I'm going to give bags a try.

corrected your pic hope you don't mind

cnieves670 wrote:

thanks

Recut the floor. I didn't like the wood from the first one. Just trying to get it right the first time.

Looks good from here

a little more progress

i was a little off the measuring hope it doesn't affect the end results.

I can't tell from the pictures but I recommend having a basket mold frame at the transom station.

I also had a problem with some of the frames near the bow. I made the mistake of assembling the frames from the bow. What you are doing, inserting every third frame or so and then filling in the other frames follows the building notes (I believe) will allow you to tweak to get a "best fit" to all the frames before taping in place.

Another tricky maneuver is fitting the top side panels to get a smooth shear line. John Hoaglund did a very good job on his boat.

Justin your correct on the frames. I'm installing every third frames because I live in an active hurricane area. Which means at any time from june til nov I may have to move the boat to get all the cars in the garage.
The basket mold I tried to duplicate what came with the instructions but I did place a 2x4 under the transom to help with the weight of entering and exiting.


I think I forgot to mention that I have never built anything out of wood, maybe this is why I'm having the problems with measurements. I'm use to cement where a little off has no affect on the end results. This is the house I'm constructing for my wife now. It has been completely done by myself.

Justin, I'll be preaching again from the 3 til the 9 of july in ocala, If you have the time I would like to stop by and see just wright. If you have the time let me know.

You are ambitious. I can't imagine building both a complicated boat and a house at the same time.

I'd be happy to meet with you and show you Just Right. The boat is growing cob webs in the barn right now. Keep me posted about your travel details. The boat is located on Hwy 100, south of Palatka in Andalusia. I live about an hour from the boat.

My comment about the transom frame was that a full frame may help to control the shape.

After seeing Just Right in person ( thanks justin) I'm motivated to get to work on my boat.

fab fab fab fab! ah come on men! I can't hold it anymore!! this is to dry to fab too!!