Modified CC (very modified)

[silentneko]

Well my skiff is over a year old now and I want to build a new boat. However a full boat/skiff would be too much right now with everything going on, but a Kayak/canoe would be easy to manage and cheap enough to throw away if it doesn't work out. Plus I have been wanting one for a while. I'm going to take my time with this one.

I'm going to try and use the cedar panel technique that Wilded talked about, if it doesn't work out I'll go back to ply.

First step is to build a work table, it's not pretty but it will work and save my back.


Next it's time to start adjusting plans to my wants, I'm using card stock first just to try out a bunch of shapes, then I'll move up to scale models.






More to follow soon.

[silentneko]

I've moved into the modeling stage, so far it's going well. I need to make a few adjustments and will most likely make 1 or 2 more models.

[Aripeka Angler]

So you are using the CC plan as a base for your modifications? Nice looking mockup

[Cracker Larry]

That just about looks like a FS18.

[silentneko]

Thanks, I'm using the CC plans to help work out some of the dimensions. Basically I'm taking the CC and shortening it to 12', flattening the rear a bit in case I want to add a trolling motor or rudder, widening it to 28in at the chine, cutting the sheer to 10", and making it self bailing. It's an ambitious plan, but I think I can work it out.

[ks8]

Full length self-bailing in that size boat will be a challenge, easier with a limited sized *wet cockpit*. If you model it in some software, you might get a better idea of the waterline, hydrostatics at different loads, etc. Full length sole will add weight... boat sits lower in the water, reduces freeboard, but more importantly - raises the CG, etc, but its not like it can't be done. If the trade offs are acceptable. Looking forward to how this works out, your final design, etc. Addicting, isn't it?

I've learned about adding weight and the boat sitting lower in the water ...

[jacquesmm]

To make it self bailing, you have to install a high sole. The more stuff you add to the boat, the heavier it will be and the higher the sole will be.
In a boat loaded with 2 people and gear, that may leave a cockpit depth of maybe 4".
Did you ever try to sit on a bench that is only 4" high?

In this case, positive upright flotation with buoyancy foam in strategic place will make the boat safer than an exceedingly high sole.

[AMC]

In this case, positive upright flotation with buoyancy foam in strategic place will make the boat safer than an exceedingly high sole.

+1.
in mine, I notice a stability difference from sitting on the bottom, to on my knees.

You will get water in a canoe, it's just a byproduct of the paddling. I did think about some ways to make this less inconvenient. I thought about a raised section in the middle, leaving a couple of inches on the sides, these would act like gutters. The water is still in the boat, but it is 'out of the way'. You could also build up the sides, and leave a gutter in the middle, same effect, perhaps better position. I was out in mine a couple of weeks ago now, in some rough water and wind, and found out that my flat bow needs a spray rail of sorts on the front. Even then, I never had so much water, after 3 hours, that a good sponge couldn't take care of it in a couple of squeezes.

[AMC]

Thanks, I'm using the CC plans to help work out some of the dimensions. Basically I'm taking the CC and shortening it to 12', flattening the rear a bit in case I want to add a trolling motor or rudder, widening it to 28in at the chine, cutting the sheer to 10", and making it self bailing. It's an ambitious plan, but I think I can work it out.

I would NOT drop the sheer to 10 inches. That is going to make it very iffy in any slop. Mine is at 12, and I wish I had another inch or two. The 24" wide, 12" sheer is a good dim. It's yields a stable boat, that is reasonable to carry. On the transom, try angling it back a bit, don't know that it helps function, but it does look nicer.

[silentneko]

Thanks for the insight guys. I'm modifying this to be more of a kayak then a canoe, and it will have kayak style drains in the cockpit under the seat. The sides are being cut down to aid in entry and egress when fishing. The cockpit will only have a raised sole between the bulkheads in the cockpit. The transom is flat, I've thought about angling it inward for a cooler look and may revisit the idea.

I've been trying to work out the sole height for now. Using various draft calculation methods and varying the load between 300-400lbs (measuring extremely high!) I get figures between 2.7" to 3.8", So I'll put the sole height somewhere between 4.5" to 5". Which puts it on par with other plastic fishing yaks I've considered buying. The worst that happens is I plug the drain right.

I'm not a huge fan of the free computer programs out there, and really it would cost more just to buy a decent program then it will cost to build this boat. Pencil, paper, and models are cheap and will do for now. This project is less about building the ultimate boat, and more about trying ideas for me, mostly working with cedar, and seeing if I even like a paddle craft before I build a better one.