Saltwanter's NC16 Fast Build

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SaltWanter
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Saltwanter's NC16 Fast Build

Post by SaltWanter »

Hey all, thought I should introduce myself as I'm beginning an NC16 canoe build using the kit sold on here. I do a lot of fishing with the Boy Scouts in the Florida Keys and it was actually Rapchizzle on here (who I work with) who gave me the itch to build my own boat (his looks awesome, by the way). Up here in Michigan I'm trying to get into some fresh water fishing but it seems like the best spots require lake access. I figured building my own canoe was the best way to kill two birds with one stone: getting experience and getting something that floats on the cheap. I'm building it a lot faster than I normally would build a project of this scale because I'm just trying to get the process down and get something that floats before the water gets too hard up here so I can do some fishing.

This past weekend I began with the cutting of the plywood along with some help from my dad. Before I took off for school on sunday we got the butt blocks glued and they are hopefully cured by now. Didn't take too many pictures, but I did set my GoPro up in the workshop. Hopefully next weekend's build will be a lot more interesting to watch with the boat actually coming together.

Build progress time lapse: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOkplLju1BY



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Laszlo
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Re: Saltwanter's NC16 Fast Build

Post by Laszlo »

Yeah, the pirogues go together very quickly. I picked up my CC14's wood Monday morning and had a complete boat Friday night, all while putting in a 40-hr work week. They are really simple boats (but a lot of fun).

Keep us posted.

Laszlo

SaltWanter
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Re: Saltwanter's NC16 Fast Build

Post by SaltWanter »

Back home for the weekend and found my side panels and bottom are solidly cured, but a lot of epoxy ran out of the sides and dripped through the joints. I had them stacked up and separated with wax paper. I'm very happy with how most of it cured, but there is just a lot of excess out the ends. Can I sand this extra cured epoxy off with normal sandpaper? And if I'm using medium cure epoxy do I need to sand any epoxy that my taped seams are going to come into contact with to get rid of amine blush?

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Cracker Larry
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Re: Saltwanter's NC16 Fast Build

Post by Cracker Larry »

Yes, just sand off the drips. At this early stage I use 40 grit and get 'er done. Amine blush is best removed with water or denatured alcohol, then sand. If you sand first, you will force the amine into the sanding grooves where you can't clean it out.

Always sand between layers unless you can do them wet on wet and in less than 24 hours. Over 24 hours, clean and sand.

Oh, welcome aboard :D
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
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SaltWanter
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Re: Saltwanter's NC16 Fast Build

Post by SaltWanter »

All sanded up and pretty. Now I'm stuck basically working by myself, is there a good way to go about folding up the sides and taping them together? I can't seem to keep one end from falling out (and then the bottom edges sliding together) while I'm taping the opposite end.

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LIDave
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Re: Saltwanter's NC16 Fast Build

Post by LIDave »

Are you trying to tape it together on the floor?
I put a spreader in the middle as shown in pics here >> http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=30928
Then I taped mine together up on a set of horses.
I tabbed it with aprox 8 to-10" pcs of duct tape perpendicular to the joints first.
Slide the bottom panel underneath and tabbed with tape every foot or so.
Got it all lined up and then ran the tape continuously over all the joints.
Hope that helps ya. 8)
Dave.

SaltWanter
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Re: Saltwanter's NC16 Fast Build

Post by SaltWanter »

Yeah that's essentially what I've been trying to do. Maybe I just underestimated the force needed to bend and hold the pieces together, right now I've got that center spreader held on with 4 clamps, then two pipe clamps underneath to get the initial bend into the side panels and give me something to push against when I pulled the bow and stern together. Lessons learned for next time: Smooth cuts are very important, and the cutting tolerances are not as big as I thought, but those are just woodworking details I'm not used to I suppose.

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sds
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Re: Saltwanter's NC16 Fast Build

Post by sds »

No reason you can't use a few zip ties in spots if the tape isn't holding. I know the CC instruction say use tape, but trying to use only tape I doubt makes the build easier or quicker.

If the seams are uneven you can use a wedge here and there to keep it from binding up.

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Re: Saltwanter's NC16 Fast Build

Post by AMC »

I tried the duct tape and it didn't work for me. Stitch it together with zip ties and it goes together very fast. Put it together upside down over a couple of saw horses, that way the parts hang off the bottom and you don't have to support them. After you flip it, add your spreader in the middle, adjust seems if necessary, then glue. I used about 40 or so ties, and it was solid enough for 2 people to gently lift and rotate. With this method however, you have to first tab it (short bits of 'glue' between the ties) the come back, remove the ties, and fill them in completely. I made my tabs about half a thick (deep) as the final filet would be so the final would cover them up completely. You will be amazed how strong it is even with just the tabs holding it together.

-G

SaltWanter
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Re: Saltwanter's NC16 Fast Build

Post by SaltWanter »

Any advice on thwart placement? My plan was to put two thwarts in, one on either side of the center of the boat so that a cooler will fit between them and then put two seats towards either end. The seats would be about an inch off the floor of the canoe, but with something under them to spread weight. Is this enough to hold the sides up/support them? How far from the center should I place the thwarts and is screwing/epoxy gluing them to the sides a sufficient method of attachment?

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