Here are some pics. The bottom is pretty much ready for paint. It is coming out pretty light - it weighs about 176 lbs so far, even though I added an extra layer of 12oz biax on the bottom.
I plan to roll and tip Sterling, with the color "Jay Gray" for the sides and accents, and an off-white for everything else. Any suggestions for an off-white?
Picking up the kit. That's me with Joel and Jacques and their NC router.
Strakes glued down
Primed and almost ready for paint.
FS17 from Kit Build
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Re: FS17 from Kit Build
Welcome to the forum Very nice work! Please keep posting, we like boat pics...
Richard
Completed boats...XF20 "Red Alert", Aripeka Angler's Strip Canoe, FS18 “Bare Bones”, GF12
Currently building...PY12 Kayak
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62146
Completed boats...XF20 "Red Alert", Aripeka Angler's Strip Canoe, FS18 “Bare Bones”, GF12
Currently building...PY12 Kayak
Bare Bones build thread...If there is magic on this planet, it is contained in water. - Loren Eiseley
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62146
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Re: FS17 from Kit Build
Looks really nice. Hope to see more in the future.
Re: FS17 from Kit Build
After a 7 year break, I'm back working on the boat again!
Re: FS17 from Kit Build
I've got a question about the transom: The clamping board is 4 plywood layers thick and is 9 inches wide, top to bottom. It looks like the lower bolt holes for the motor are supposed to be 10" down from the top of the transom, which puts them an inch below the clamping board, and thru the thin part of the transom, as well as just below the motor well bottom. Is this correct? Is the transom strong enough down there as is? I'm putting a 60hp tohatsu on it, which is the lightest motor I can find of 50hp or more.
Re: FS17 from Kit Build
The clamping board is 10-7/8" on my plans from a ~5 years ago, perhaps your plans predate a change there if you started a long time ago?Ulysses wrote: ↑Sun May 22, 2022 3:18 pm I've got a question about the transom: The clamping board is 4 plywood layers thick and is 9 inches wide, top to bottom. It looks like the lower bolt holes for the motor are supposed to be 10" down from the top of the transom, which puts them an inch below the clamping board, and thru the thin part of the transom, as well as just below the motor well bottom. Is this correct? Is the transom strong enough down there as is? I'm putting a 60hp tohatsu on it, which is the lightest motor I can find of 50hp or more.
Re: FS17 from Kit Build
Thanks for your help. My plans are from 2007. I bought the precut kit. The only thing I did was cut the transom down for a 20 inch motor. I think I did it right, but who knows. Unfortunately, I can't find the page in the plans that shows the transom dimensions, but here are some pictures.
Re: FS17 from Kit Build
If it was me I'd probably just epoxy in a 2" strip to extend the clamping board lower in the area where you need to mount the motor. 2" might not be exactly right, think about where the motorwell bottom will intersect. Can also wait for the designer to chime in about how to resolve.Ulysses wrote: ↑Mon May 23, 2022 9:40 pm Thanks for your help. My plans are from 2007. I bought the precut kit. The only thing I did was cut the transom down for a 20 inch motor. I think I did it right, but who knows. Unfortunately, I can't find the page in the plans that shows the transom dimensions, but here are some pictures.
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Re: FS17 from Kit Build
Make the clamping board 11" or so, that way 2" down starts holes, 8" away is holes or at 10" and one inch hole clearance. Otherwise, the clamping board of 10" can be offset 1" below the transom top of too narrow already.
I'd prefer it all the way up..
I'd prefer it all the way up..
Re: FS17 from Kit Build
I guess I'm not crazy, as I found a builder's thread from 2010 (user name: whosmatt) who had exactly the same problem. He ended up redoing the splashwell, as the lower bolts are too close to the bottom of the splashwell. I'll probably do something similar. I assume the plans have been updated to fix this issue.
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