AR15 - Expensive Therapy

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apexchaser
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Post by apexchaser »

Spectacular is a good word for it... I think we were VERY lucky we didn't go all the way over and nobody was hurt. The deceleration was astounding when we buried the bows!

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LarryA
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Post by LarryA »

Nothing like the feeling of going from 20 knots to standstill in a matter of seconds.. Especially when you ain't got no seatbelts :D

richstrat
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Post by richstrat »

To answer Jay's question,

The cleats are a mix of timbers. The simple straight cleats, bonded to the frames and stringers are nominal 1x1 pine (actually 3/4 x 3/4 by the time it's finished). From what I understand, they are just there to increase bonding surface area, so I wasn't that fussy about the timber I used for these.

The vertical seat sides have a double strip of 6mm ply bonded to them to create a ledge. This is because the seat sides are curved and I didn't want to distort that with a solid piece of timber.

I hadn't really thought about the rub rail other than planning on following Jacques recommendations (there's a first! :lol: ) - 3 layers of 6mm ply 38mm deep, all bonded together. I'm anticipating that it will be fairly difficult to match the sheer and the varying angles of the hull sides, so thin and flexible seems to be the way to go...

I don't think I would place too much reliance on the photos I've posted to guide you - as you can probably figure, my AR15 is quite significantly different to a 'stock' one (different seats, open transom, shaped cockpit sole - not parrallel as in the stock design, modified centreboard trunking and centreboard, plus I'm planning serious mods under the front deck, to the pole launch system and some changes to facilitate drainage)

Now Jacques, you can't post in my build thread without commenting on my modifications :wink:

Rich

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Post by richstrat »

Latest update:

I've had my first disaster...

The hull is on blocks at the moment. I was wandering along the sole doing a bit of sanding when I moved a little too far to the side - I capsized in my garage - how embarrasing :oops:

The problem was as I fell out of the boat my foot caught the side of the hull and as I'm building in 4mm ply, I ended up with a sizeable chunk of my hull missing! Still, picked up the missing piece, glued it back in and it all looks fine, bit ragged for a scarf, but it's plenty strong enough and under the rubrail anyway...

So, lesson learnt - light boats capsize easily :lol:

Anyway, here's what's happened since the last piccies:

Foamed under the cabin sole.
Fitted cleats (timber and foam) for the seat tops.
Fitted seat tops.
Fitted 'hiking level' seat sides.
Fitted rubrail.

I have to say the fitting of the rubrail was just about the most filthy, unpleasant job I've done yet - epoxy oozing everywhere, but it's on now and lookin fine, even if I do say so myself.

<img src ="modules/Upload/richstrat/bow.JPG ">

<img src ="modules/Upload/richstrat/hull.jpg ">

<img src ="modules/Upload/richstrat/transom1.jpg ">

Rich
Check out my AR-15, Expensive Therapy, in builders

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lstyles
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Post by lstyles »

More great pictures Rich! What are those white things (lines) along the edge of your lower seats. By the way, what is the reasoning behind the two level of seats?
Keep up the great work,
Lori

richstrat
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Post by richstrat »

The white things are basically 2 x 2 strips of foam sheet. It is bonded to the seat top and side - it is a hell of a lot easier to bond a piece of foam in the gap and then shape that to a nice radius than to do it in timber. It will be rounded over and then fibreglassed - hey presto, a lovely rounded seat edge.

The reasoning for the two seating levels is simply personal preference. When just pottering around, I prefer a boat that you can sit in, rather than on. My partner is a novice sailor and we have had many requests already to take novice friends out, so I wanted a boat that felt a little safer, when not really going for it...

Rich
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fmiles
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Post by fmiles »

Rich, I am very impressed. You are making TREMENDOUS progress, and I certainly am learning oodles from your techniques (Foam mouldings for example!)

Trying to beat the weather before the cold snap sets in by any chance?! I am, its going to get pretty cold in the next 2 weeks :|

richstrat
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Post by richstrat »

I guess I'm in the fortunate position that I have fitted an electric heater in the garage. It easily maintains 18 - 19C with current ambient temperatures, so I'm hoping that even if the weather does turn really cold I can carry on using epoxy...

Actually the reason for the haste is that I've kinda promised to gut and re-build the bathroom in my partners house over christmas and I want the boat finished by then or I'll be really grumpy being drawn away from my pet project!!!

Rich
Check out my AR-15, Expensive Therapy, in builders

BrianS
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Post by BrianS »

Rich,
When you've finished with the boat and the bathroom, I'll fly you first class over to Florida for a week, and you can finish my boat for me!!!
Great work on the boat, and great pic's too.

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LarryA
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Post by LarryA »

Rich,

You are doing an awesome job and great photos. One suggestion. Make sure you have worked out your running rigging before you seal everything up. On a performance boat like that, you don't want lines running all over the false floor because you WILL trip over it at some crucial moment and send you and your favorite crew swimming ;) Many times, control lines are run under the false floor or through the side tanks to keep them out of the way. I only bring this up now because you are doing such a great job, I would hate to see you have to cut things open to run lines....

I could propose a list of control lines to consider if you like.

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