Hi,
I'm building this as a test of my boat building skills before I start on a 19-20' center console hopefully later this year. Or a 2-seater kayak if my wife decides to steal this one..
I got my fiberglass and epoxy kit in yesterday and will be picking up the wood in a few days so am ready to get started. I want to outfit this as a fishing kayak so will gladly take any advice on rigging. I want to get this finished up in a month or three so I can take it out this spring.
I've got a few questions:
Is cypress a good wood for the cleats? I've got a lot of that laying around, it's light and rot resistant so I figure its a good wood.
I'm thinking of using a pair of these for the drains and having a channel between them behind the seat to drain the water as needed instead of the open holes in the side. I assume the plug is on the outside with these?
http://www.basspro.com/Replacement-Kaya ... /10225363/
For the stitches, I have some bulk twist tie material that's used for tying up tomatoes, I figure it should work on this little boat but may not be strong enough for a larger one. Anything wrong with that thinking?
I've seen some partially finished threads of the PY12 but nothing completely rigged out, did I miss someone's build?
I'll post some pictures once I get started.
Thanks,
Steve
PY12 Build - NC
- Bowmovement
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- Location: Lynwood Wa, By way of Eastern N.C.
Re: PY12 Build - NC
Looking forward to see one of these get built. Its on my list.
Matt
Matt
"Aoccdrnig to a rscheearch at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoetnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteers be at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a total mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae the huamn mnid deos not raed ervey lteter by istlef, but the wrod as a wlohe."
- topwater
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
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Re: PY12 Build - NC
I use cypress for all my cleats , nice to work with and I get it cheaper than doug fir.
Novi 23 finally launched !
Re: PY12 Build - NC
Here's the baby stack of plywood. 3 - 3mm Okume and 1- 6mm meranti
Here's the glass/epoxy kit from BBC
Here's the garage that will soon be covered with dust again.
I'm going to try to get started laying out and cutting this weekend.
When you guys lay out the nesting and pieces cross multiple sheets, do you
1) lay them out together un-glued, cut, and then glue the smaller pieces together
or
2) do you glue the 4x8s together, lay out, then cut
or
3) something else?
Do you trim the factory edges of the ply to ensure that you have 90 degree angles to work from when parts cross multiple pieces of plywood or is this too picky?
Thanks
Here's the glass/epoxy kit from BBC
Here's the garage that will soon be covered with dust again.
I'm going to try to get started laying out and cutting this weekend.
When you guys lay out the nesting and pieces cross multiple sheets, do you
1) lay them out together un-glued, cut, and then glue the smaller pieces together
or
2) do you glue the 4x8s together, lay out, then cut
or
3) something else?
Do you trim the factory edges of the ply to ensure that you have 90 degree angles to work from when parts cross multiple pieces of plywood or is this too picky?
Thanks
Re: PY12 Build - NC
I did number one and stayed with the factory edges.
But that's just Dougster
But that's just Dougster
Re: PY12 Build - NC
I did #1 (but I'm all better now)
I don't know about the PY12 planes, but some small boat plans have symmetry across the seem, which lets you cut both pieces at the same time, reducing the time, tear out from the saw, and guaranteeing symmetry. I have heard of people gluing them together first, but don't know what the advantage is, and the difficulty of handling a 4 X 16 foot piece of wood makes it hard to justify.
I generally assume that the factory edges are closer to 90 degrees then I could get them.
Where you at in NC?
I don't know about the PY12 planes, but some small boat plans have symmetry across the seem, which lets you cut both pieces at the same time, reducing the time, tear out from the saw, and guaranteeing symmetry. I have heard of people gluing them together first, but don't know what the advantage is, and the difficulty of handling a 4 X 16 foot piece of wood makes it hard to justify.
I generally assume that the factory edges are closer to 90 degrees then I could get them.
Where you at in NC?
Re: PY12 Build - NC
Thanks guys.
AMC, I checked the plans and I can rip all of the 3mm ply down the middle, stack two together w/ doublestick tape, lay out once and cut pairs. I might even be able to make most of the cuts on the bandsaw since they will only be 24" wide.
I'll check them for square and if they are really wonky, crosscut the ripped pieces to a good square edge. I'm just worried that if I index off the edge and the pieces of ply are canted because of a non-right angle joining them, the boat will sink. Well... not really, but it might make assembly more complicated.
I'm a few miles south of Raleigh.
- Steve
AMC, I checked the plans and I can rip all of the 3mm ply down the middle, stack two together w/ doublestick tape, lay out once and cut pairs. I might even be able to make most of the cuts on the bandsaw since they will only be 24" wide.
I'll check them for square and if they are really wonky, crosscut the ripped pieces to a good square edge. I'm just worried that if I index off the edge and the pieces of ply are canted because of a non-right angle joining them, the boat will sink. Well... not really, but it might make assembly more complicated.
I'm a few miles south of Raleigh.
- Steve
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- Joined: Sun Jan 27, 2008 8:40 pm
- Location: Merritt Island, Fl
Re: PY12 Build - NC
Steve,
We just started the Orca 16 Kayak, I was nervous about butting the 2 cutout pieces together and have them be fair since the width at the splice would be 7 and 9 inches respectively for the sides and bottom panels. (Joel told me the factory edges aren't as exact as we might like to think.) So I spliced the 2 4x8 sheets together first, did the layout, cut the first panel slightly oversize then stacked and cut out both panels at the same time. So far this has worked really well with the 4mm, I've stitched the sides and bottom and everything is coming together nicely. (note: this threw off the nesting plan somewhat but not to where I will need another sheet)
This is the 4th boat we've built from the Bateau guys, not only are they fun to build but without exception perform better than anticipated when wet!
Best of luck!
We just started the Orca 16 Kayak, I was nervous about butting the 2 cutout pieces together and have them be fair since the width at the splice would be 7 and 9 inches respectively for the sides and bottom panels. (Joel told me the factory edges aren't as exact as we might like to think.) So I spliced the 2 4x8 sheets together first, did the layout, cut the first panel slightly oversize then stacked and cut out both panels at the same time. So far this has worked really well with the 4mm, I've stitched the sides and bottom and everything is coming together nicely. (note: this threw off the nesting plan somewhat but not to where I will need another sheet)
This is the 4th boat we've built from the Bateau guys, not only are they fun to build but without exception perform better than anticipated when wet!
Best of luck!
Re: PY12 Build - NC
Decided I want to start with good straight square edges to index off of so I ordered one of these. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page ... te=ROCKLER Full 8.5 ft straight edge plus a t-square.
Should get cutting this week.
Should get cutting this week.
Re: PY12 Build - NC
Cool looking tool Dienster, let us know how it works. I've looked at some of those type things, never saw that one. I just use any old semi straight piece and clamp it with marginal results.
Still on board Dougster
Still on board Dougster
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