If you do a search on google, you"ll find that the copper in epoxy does not work. For it to work, the paint has to break down and release the copper but epoxy does not break down. No copper gets released = no anti-fouling.
If it worked, we would sell it.
TW28 for Adriatic Sea
Re: TW28 for Adriatic Sea
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
Re: TW28 for Adriatic Sea
Epoxy coats the copper not allowing it to be released to the water. You need a true bottom paint. There are several formulations available that will work. Some last a year or two, some last 3-4 years.jacquesmm wrote:If you do a search on google, you"ll find that the copper in epoxy does not work. For it to work, the paint has to break down and release the copper but epoxy does not break down. No copper gets released = no anti-fouling.
If it worked, we would sell it.
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
- Corto Maltese
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- Location: Adriatic Sea
Re: TW28 for Adriatic Sea
In fact I have a long way to antifouling, but deuce_454 posted a question here about copper coat..
The efficiency of antifouling depends of the environment. I believe, that "my" Adriatic is not so problematic as tropical waters (including Florida), where you have to use strong poisons. There was an interesting test of various antifoulings in Practical Boat Owner few months ago. They tested various products all over the British shores, with quite different results.
What concerns copper coat. Of course it is uneficient, when somebody just lets it on the hull. Because the copper is encapsulated within the epoxy, you have to dive and rub it frequently or even lightly sand to expose copper. The ordinary antifouling does it by itself (it's for us, lazy guys), and you have to put on new layers each year or two. But there are rumors of some new technologies arriving...
Copper coat works for someone somewhere and for others don't. The heated polemics on the Cruisersforum are nevertheless amusing for me.
Now, I'm going to my boatyard to drill 8 12mm holes for engine mounts onto bearers. The antifouling is still a galaxy far far away for me
The efficiency of antifouling depends of the environment. I believe, that "my" Adriatic is not so problematic as tropical waters (including Florida), where you have to use strong poisons. There was an interesting test of various antifoulings in Practical Boat Owner few months ago. They tested various products all over the British shores, with quite different results.
What concerns copper coat. Of course it is uneficient, when somebody just lets it on the hull. Because the copper is encapsulated within the epoxy, you have to dive and rub it frequently or even lightly sand to expose copper. The ordinary antifouling does it by itself (it's for us, lazy guys), and you have to put on new layers each year or two. But there are rumors of some new technologies arriving...
Copper coat works for someone somewhere and for others don't. The heated polemics on the Cruisersforum are nevertheless amusing for me.
Now, I'm going to my boatyard to drill 8 12mm holes for engine mounts onto bearers. The antifouling is still a galaxy far far away for me
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Re: TW28 for Adriatic Sea
Hallo Dario,
We are waiting already a long time that you show us pictures of your boat. Even that I build a sail boat I like the TW28 a lot and follow all the builds of it.
Greetings from your neighbor Karl
We are waiting already a long time that you show us pictures of your boat. Even that I build a sail boat I like the TW28 a lot and follow all the builds of it.
Greetings from your neighbor Karl
- Corto Maltese
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Re: TW28 for Adriatic Sea
Dear Karl,
my build is slowely advancing; the bulkheads are fitted, the frame for sole is ready, brackets for water heater, two 120l diesel tanks, two 70l water tanks (the flexible 120l will be under the bed, also for weight) and are gued inside. I painted this section with bilge paint, drilled a hole and fixed it for marelon through hull for cooling water intake. Not more than an hour work to connect it with the filter and engine. Tomorrow I'm going to drill the hole into the transom for bronze exhaust and then all is ready to connect it to gooseneck, silencer and waterlock towards the engine. 130 euros for 4m of Vetus exhaust hose and the plastic parts I've mentioned were over 300 euro. Luckily I forgot the price of that bronze part This section needs about 3 hours of work. That will be all for this season.
Yes, I promise to put some pictures soon. I have a shortage of time: work, family etc. I'm also working in a very tight space and the pics won't be a state of the art. I hope we'll continue with tw28 build together with Rick as soon as the spring comes. Meanwhile at least three months of winter hibernation (and collecting some euros for epoxy, fiberglass, plywood...).
Wish you all the best,
Dario
my build is slowely advancing; the bulkheads are fitted, the frame for sole is ready, brackets for water heater, two 120l diesel tanks, two 70l water tanks (the flexible 120l will be under the bed, also for weight) and are gued inside. I painted this section with bilge paint, drilled a hole and fixed it for marelon through hull for cooling water intake. Not more than an hour work to connect it with the filter and engine. Tomorrow I'm going to drill the hole into the transom for bronze exhaust and then all is ready to connect it to gooseneck, silencer and waterlock towards the engine. 130 euros for 4m of Vetus exhaust hose and the plastic parts I've mentioned were over 300 euro. Luckily I forgot the price of that bronze part This section needs about 3 hours of work. That will be all for this season.
Yes, I promise to put some pictures soon. I have a shortage of time: work, family etc. I'm also working in a very tight space and the pics won't be a state of the art. I hope we'll continue with tw28 build together with Rick as soon as the spring comes. Meanwhile at least three months of winter hibernation (and collecting some euros for epoxy, fiberglass, plywood...).
Wish you all the best,
Dario
- TheBroomside
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Re: TW28 for Adriatic Sea
One step at a time, and suddenly the next TW28 will hit the water. THX for the update. Happy hibernation .
All the best,
Peter
LUS
All the best,
Peter
LUS
- Knottybuoyz
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Re: TW28 for Adriatic Sea
Nice work Dario. I hope to catch up in the spring. Stay warm this winter.
Cheers!
Cheers!
Yours Aye! Rick
"It's not the boat "you built" until you've sworn at it, bled on it, sweated over it, cried beside it and then threatened to haul the POS outside and burn it!"
"It's not the boat "you built" until you've sworn at it, bled on it, sweated over it, cried beside it and then threatened to haul the POS outside and burn it!"
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Re: TW28 for Adriatic Sea
August is a deadline, but most probably September, or ...
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Re: TW28 for Adriatic Sea
...more pictures please
- glossieblack
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Re: TW28 for Adriatic Sea
Impressive progress since you last post some 5 years ago! Congratulations.
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).
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