ekerebel,
Your boat is looking good.. i am envious, as i need to finish my D5
before i can start my AR15..
post lots of pics..
An AR15 in Paris
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Looking good - your mods make her look much 'sleeker' than a standard AR15. One suggestion (I don't know if you were planning on doing this anyway) - when you have adjusted your zip ties to set the fairness of the hull, cover the seams in duct tape (if you have this in France) - it will save you a lot of epoxy and working cleaning uo drips and runs...
Cheers,
Rich
Cheers,
Rich
Check out my AR-15, Expensive Therapy, in builders
Status 14/03/2004
Thanx for your comments !
Today, first fillets (notice the cheap labor) :
Today, first fillets (notice the cheap labor) :
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- Location: Now a much longer sail to Tampa Florida! Back to NC, Youngsville FM05tw
Regarding the symmetry problem and ginding...
What I did on the Caravelle was double the number of stitches where the wood was being opinionated. Of course too many holes, or, holes too close to the edge, will start pulling and breaking through the wood. I also used some 5 minute epoxy and wood flour to make small *welds* as I held the panels where the stitching would not hold, for about 20 minutes while the 5 minute epoxy set well. They were only small welds, just enough to hold a little more, since the 5 minute epoxy was cheap. I did not want it to be, by any means, the primary bond in the area. Then, when cured, I *carefully* roughed up those small welds ( a few hours later) and carefully laid in the *real* fillet and tape. The problem areas held with the small welds and the panels fit quite nicely. I still had to do a little grinding, but of course, make sure you have enough material behind where you are grinding so that you do not break through, or worse, barely NOT break through but have no strength there. I made fairly large fillets where all the panels come together so I had the material to make a nice rounded exterior seam. But I have a pram bow and things were not so critical as your bow. So all the more, have lots of material inside so you can grind and sand an excellent shape for parting the waters.
I think that as many people as respond to that question, will have that many different answers. The chief concern, I think, is that whatever you do, make sure you have plenty of strong material inside so you have a little more freedom to do a serious grind on the outside.
But it seams best to do what you can to get the symmetry as good as possible and NOT rely on grinding. You've been this inventive already. You'll come up with some sort of jig for the task.
Just think of the sensation when you get it figured out...
sincerely,
ks
What I did on the Caravelle was double the number of stitches where the wood was being opinionated. Of course too many holes, or, holes too close to the edge, will start pulling and breaking through the wood. I also used some 5 minute epoxy and wood flour to make small *welds* as I held the panels where the stitching would not hold, for about 20 minutes while the 5 minute epoxy set well. They were only small welds, just enough to hold a little more, since the 5 minute epoxy was cheap. I did not want it to be, by any means, the primary bond in the area. Then, when cured, I *carefully* roughed up those small welds ( a few hours later) and carefully laid in the *real* fillet and tape. The problem areas held with the small welds and the panels fit quite nicely. I still had to do a little grinding, but of course, make sure you have enough material behind where you are grinding so that you do not break through, or worse, barely NOT break through but have no strength there. I made fairly large fillets where all the panels come together so I had the material to make a nice rounded exterior seam. But I have a pram bow and things were not so critical as your bow. So all the more, have lots of material inside so you can grind and sand an excellent shape for parting the waters.
I think that as many people as respond to that question, will have that many different answers. The chief concern, I think, is that whatever you do, make sure you have plenty of strong material inside so you have a little more freedom to do a serious grind on the outside.
But it seams best to do what you can to get the symmetry as good as possible and NOT rely on grinding. You've been this inventive already. You'll come up with some sort of jig for the task.
Just think of the sensation when you get it figured out...
sincerely,
ks
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here is a previous discussion about the problems with the bow area.
I went back to the model and everything is correct but there is a very small area at the bow that requires compounding in the chine panel in theory.
It happens at the last 3 or 4 inches but only IF you try to get a tight fit within let's say 5 mm.
From the previous thread about that, you can see that the problem was solved when the stitches were loosened.
Now, let me explain something important.
The picture above shows the finished surface AND the lines. It is extracted from our original AR15 model. We lofted the surfaces from the blue lines but what we want to build is the green surface.
The dark blue lines are the ones who define the panels but the finished surface will be rounded. Rounded around the bow at least 1/2" (12 mm) and in profile 3" ( 75 mm). Without those radii, you would not be able to fiberglass the outside properly and also, it would look bad.
To create that surface, you start with the panels as designed and build the seams inside. During the panels assembly, you leave some play at the bow.
With the inside fiberglassed, you grind the outside to a nice radius as shown above.
The difference in length is significant: you grind one or two inches off depending on the spot. You can see that on the picture. And doing that, you eliminate the "problem", it becomes wood dust . . .
Richstart probably cut that radius before fiberglassing and that is fine too.
Maybe we should have shown that on the plans but I am afraid it would confuse people. Ideally, each panel should be shorter and builders should leave a nice gap like 1/2" (12 mm) but I am certain that if we show the panels that way, many builders will still go for a tight fit.
Our choice is to show the whole panel and grind it down.
It is one of those things that solves itself during the building.
If you try to get it perfect in theory, within 1 mm, it will not work but that compounded tip will dissapear, it is rounded down.
I will try to find a way to explain that in the building notes.
Just by curiosity, I measured how much to grind off: at the tip, lower edge of chine panel, it is 58 mm, 2"+.
_________________
Jacques Mertens
Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
-- Benjamin Franklin
-- Benjamin Franklin
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Yes, it is getting worse everyday as the D5 gets closer and closer to completion. Since the D5 is my learner boat and a shore tender for a larger boat, i am anxious to build something i can play with on the lakes here.You must be itching to get it started eh Terry?
Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
-- Benjamin Franklin
-- Benjamin Franklin
Status 04/04/2004
Hi,
Quite a slow progress since last time.
Still filetting :
You will notice some changes I made to the bow. Bowsprit will be in the center, which will make the construction much easier I think. Bowsprit will be hold between frame A and the bow :
Quite a slow progress since last time.
Still filetting :
You will notice some changes I made to the bow. Bowsprit will be in the center, which will make the construction much easier I think. Bowsprit will be hold between frame A and the bow :
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