Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Posted: **Tue May 14, 2013 12:25 am**

I am on my way into a Phantom 18! I have been cruising the bateau site for a couple of years now. In fact, I've has the PH18 plans for over 2 years. Like a lot of builders have said, I've got it built (maybe a few times over) in my head. Now I just need to build it. I have the luxury of being close to Houston Hardwoods every Saturday with my boys' activities. It's where I got all the ply. I was generously given the adjustable boat stand by flyfishingmonk. Casey, you'll notice a few mods, but I really do appreciate the time you put into selecting very nice lumber. I have been able to easily adjust it to my uneven garage floor. Once I'm done with it it will be up for grabs again. Just letting you know, Casey, I will be lifting many other ideas from you as well during my build. I am using Silvertip from bateau.

Got a couple of questions: I have been very happy with how the bulkhead/stringers set up on the stand with one exception. The inside stringers stand proud of bulkhead A by 3/8". I think it's due to my inaccuracy in laying out the stringer pattern. I think the choice is either to plane the stringers down in a sweeping manner or to just leave them be and see how the panels come together. I know I'll need to deal with the second option when the boat is flipped, so I'm leaning to option A.

The transom piece fits up against the stringers nicely, but there is a 1/2" offset b/w the transom and stringer bottoms. Are the plans supposed to result in a 3/8" offset to account for the epoxy glue filling that gap? Seems like that would be the case. If so, I think the additional offset was due to my error in cutting the transom. I am going to laminate 3 transom pieces anyway, so I already have the extra ply. I just wanted to know this answer before I cut a new one. I would use the slightly short transom piece for one of the inside laminations.

http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/userp ... M_0270.JPG

Posted: **Tue May 14, 2013 12:31 am**

Posted: **Tue May 14, 2013 12:35 am**

Ok, despite my searching for the answer I cannot figure out how to post multiple appropriately sized photos into a single post.

Posted: **Tue May 14, 2013 12:38 am**

Posted: **Tue May 14, 2013 12:39 am**

Posted: **Tue May 14, 2013 12:40 am**

I'll figure it out. Sorry for the pain. Last one:

Posted: **Tue May 14, 2013 6:49 am**

Here you go, now try to answer me by quoting me and you can see how I did it, hope this helps

Posted: **Tue May 14, 2013 6:53 am**

Also here's a short movie on how to place pics on the forum http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scBeYCe88V0

Posted: **Tue May 14, 2013 8:28 am**

peter-curacao wrote:Here you go, now try to answer me by quoting me and you can see how I did it, hope this helps

Thanks. I have seen that video, a few times in fact, and I might have it figured out now. I have learned a lot from your posts, so I thank you for that also.

Posted: **Tue May 14, 2013 12:08 pm**

Congratulations on starting your build!

I'm going to ask the first thing that comes to my mind, even though I'm sure you've probably done it: Have you quadruple-checked the measurements to ensure you have everything cut right? We do a lot of measuring/cutting, and sometimes the best of us mis-read a tape measure several times over. I know I've done it a million times...

Posted: **Tue May 14, 2013 12:44 pm**

Tobolamr, thanks.

I believe in measuring multiple times before cutting but, yes, I have made plenty of mistakes before despite that. I remeasured all the bulkheads while they were up on the strongback and they are nuts-on accurate. The stringers required tracing full patterns for the tips and melding them with the straighter aft portions. I think there's a decent chance that's where my error occurred. Also, I was cutting the stringers with a somewhat cheesy jigsaw. Fortunately, that jigsaw broke and I replaced it with a much nicer model and used the new saw to cut the bulkheads and bottom/side panels. I stacked the panels and cut them together for symmetry and like the way they turned out. Another potential reason for offset b/w the stringers and bulkhead A is that my stand is out of level but it holds up to scrutiny. I have more faith that the bulkheads are true to plans than the stringer tips, so that is why I'd consider planing the stringers down some. I'll do some more head scratching and thinking before any action is taken.

Posted: **Mon May 20, 2013 1:32 am**

After checking and rechecking I could not find a measurement error. I drew out a new inner stringer from scratch on paper I had taped together, placed it over a stringer laid on the floor and it matches. So I planed down the hull side of the stringer. I figure it will turn out OK if I need to do some build up after the flip.

Today was a good day. I now have what is undeniably a boat in my garage! I was pleased with how things turned out. I have some tweaking to do. I also think I will release the transom from the supports I have fixed to the strongback and allow it to float as I tie it into the panels. My 14 yo says his favorite part of the assembly is how all 4 pieces came together at the bow. I like that too. It doesn't show in the pictures but there is a slight camber to the bottom panels aftward. I can correct that with shims b/w the bulkheads and panels to make them dead flat like they're supposed to be.

I will cut back the few spots where the panel edges are touching. Otherwise, the edges have enough gap for a finish nail. I was expecting to see a little more space to place fillet material than what I have. With everything lining up so well, at least to me on my first go-round with this, I'm reluctant to monkey around too much with it. Will these small gaps hold enough fillet to keep the structure together?

Posted: **Mon May 20, 2013 2:06 am**

Alright, this picture uploading is making me a little nutty. Just like in the previously mentioned video, when I hit Builders Galleries, then Upload File, I do not get the window seen in the video. Instead I get the window to browse photos to place them in my gallery. If I'm in my gallery, right click on a photo I want to post, copy the URL, highlight and hit [img], what comes out are these thumbnail photos you see above. If I open the picture in my gallery, save and paste that URL in my reply, I get the "It was not possible to determine the dimensions of the image" error and my pictures do not post. It's the same with Internet Explorer and Chrome. Anybody have a suggestion? Also, I cannot upload even the thumbnails except one at a time, saving messages and having to visit my gallery each time. I know there's a better way, I just don't know what is is.

Posted: **Mon May 20, 2013 3:00 am**

I got it. Even a blind pig ...

My 9 yo passing zip ties from below.

14 yo helping with assembly

If anybody has a comment on my panel gap/fillet question above I 'd be grateful.

Posted: **Mon May 20, 2013 7:02 am**

Looks great! The gaps are perfect, finishing nail is just right.

Must be nice to have your own labor pool

Maybe I should adopt a couple of younguns.

Posted: **Mon May 20, 2013 12:38 pm**

Cracker Larry wrote:Maybe I should adopt a couple of younguns.

I could send my oldest 2 down to help you... 10 and 7... or my 15 year old nephew could get shipped down to you...

Posted: **Tue May 21, 2013 12:26 am**

The labor pool is fun to have. They are excited about the boat build.

Thanks for the feedback. The panels at the keel aftwards are nearly butt-jointed because of the low deadrise. When it's time to fillet should I just squish some into that gap or would it make sense to rout a shallow V into that joint to increase the surface area? Perhaps I'm worrying about the fillets' role in this step too much.

Posted: **Tue May 21, 2013 7:48 am**

Nice black drum

As long as you have a gap, just squish some glue in it. Before you start that, get your child labor pool under the boat and tape the inside of all the seams with wide masking tape. This will hold the glue in the joints and keep it from running all over the inside of the boat. Saves a lot of sanding later.

Posted: **Wed May 29, 2013 11:41 am**

After some final adjustments I filleted the panel joints on Monday. I'll take out the zip ties later this week and complete the filleting. Some lessons I learned in the process:

1. I used EZ-Fillet, and it was great to work with.

2. I used a couple of pastry bags at first, but then used quart zip-locs. I preferred the zip-locs for the smaller batches and piping it into these small gaps. When it comes time to making the inside fillets I will probably use the pastry bags again because the opening can be cut at whatever diameter you want.

3. I made up too much volume for my second batch. It got hot as hell and gelled up in my pastry bag. It was a much better experience to make smaller batches and not be rushed.

For measuring my epoxy and EZ-Fillet I bought a 500gm electronic scale. Rather than worrying about measuring specific volumes, I can put any quantity of Part A in at first, multiply that weight by 1.44, then add enough B until I get to the final weight. I keep a small calculator next to the scale. It's made the mixing very easy.

Posted: **Sun Jun 09, 2013 10:51 pm**

I have sanded down my chine/keel seams to what I think will be a good angle for glassing. Thanks, Cracker Larry, for your help. I now have the hull marked out for glassing. I think the lamination schedule in my plans should be more plainly worded, but what I plan to do is based on what I think others have done. I will run 2 staggered 6" tapes along the keel, run a single 6" tape along each chine, stagger 2 layers of tape at the transom and overlap each side's biaxial cloth 6" to the other side of the keel. If anyone would like to chime in and offer suggestions I would welcome it.

I suppose now's the best time to decide whether to prepare for a shoot-through transducer. As long as it's out of the way of the single strake I plan to install on each side, does it matter in which stringer box I place the transducer? That is, between the keel and inside stringer, between the two stringers or between the outside stringer and the chine? I plan on making a reverse chine, if that impacts anyone's advice.

Will

Posted: **Wed Jun 12, 2013 11:14 am**

Looks good Will. When you do the 50" cloth, it won't go all the way up the sides. You might want to have cloth cut and ready if you plan on covering it completely and wet on wet. Or not.

Casey and I have reverse chines on ours. he built his by laminating ply. I built mine by dam and fill. Used about a gal of epoxy to do it. Don

Posted: **Thu Jun 13, 2013 8:28 am**

Thanks, Don. I'm having fun with the build. I have things lined up for glassing the hull this weekend. I do plan to glass the sides.

Yep, I'm going to order 1.5 gallons epoxy from bateau for the reverse chines and strakes. I plan to dam and fill, but also imbed some wood cut to fit to take up some of the volume.

I'd love to swing down your way some time this summer and check out your build.

Will

Posted: **Thu Jun 13, 2013 2:25 pm**

No problem Will. Someday I might even finish and we'll go fishing.

Don

Posted: **Sun Jun 16, 2013 10:26 pm**

Glassed the hull today. I applied neat epoxy last night and got a good start today. It took me 4 hrs to double tape all seams and the transom by myself, then 5 hrs on the biax cloth with the help of my sons. I like the way it turned out. I had my items laid out ahead of time Cracker-style. Next I'll glass the sides, but it will likely be a couple of weekends from now. I plan on reverse chines and a strake on each side. I have the strake molds from flyfishingmonk and will use those. Since I'm going to glass in the chines and strakes I thought I'd wait till all that's done before fairing. I know I'll be working in smaller areas to fair that way but the way the glass laid down today it doesn't seem like that will be so bad. I'm wide open to any suggestions/tips re these next few steps.

Neat epoxy applied:

Biax tape:

Setting up for biax cloth:

I put a little EZ-Fillet in the corner to fill the gap between the tape pieces.

Posted: **Mon Jun 17, 2013 12:02 am**

Looks good Will. That is a nice milestone to pass. You said fairing won't be that bad? Fairing is always a pain.

Posted: **Sun Jun 23, 2013 11:23 pm**

Sanded the whole hull and washed off the dust. It felt good to spray water on the hull! I had known I had a few air pockets to deal with, but the sanding/washing process made those and several others more noticeable. The biggest of them are pictured below. I have filled them with epoxy using a syringe. I went over the hull a few times and tried to fill anything that looked like a pocket. In general the glass is very solid and based on what I read I think I'm good to go after filling the pockets.

I could see how a big, long pocket would be a sign of a weak lamination, but could someone tell me what the concern would be for any pockets I might have missed? Is it lamination strength, future paint failure or something else?

Will

Posted: **Sun Jun 23, 2013 11:26 pm**

Thanks for the compliment, Mike. In a way I'm looking forward to the fairing process. At least that's what I'm saying now ...

Posted: **Mon Jun 24, 2013 12:00 pm**

I felt the same way about fairing before I started with the long board!

I am still fairing!

Posted: **Wed Jun 26, 2013 11:53 am**

Very nice work Will. If I remember, I sanded down the small bubbles that stood proud then patched. Looks great!! Don

Posted: **Sat Jun 29, 2013 11:45 pm**

Thanks, Don. I did find a few areas with pockets which I injected but didn't like the outcome. I sanded them down and patched them today. I held each piece down with visqueen as peel ply and like the result. If I were to do the build all over again I would cover each hull seam with lengths of visqueen - it seems to prevent air intrusion nicely.

Here's one completed patch

I glassed the sides today as well. I had sanded the edges of the biax cloth planning to overlap with the side glass, but ultimately decided that since the side glass is not structural to just approximate the two edges. I first put wide masking tape along the old cloth, overlapped the new glass and epoxy a bit onto the masking tape, then cut a nice edge when the epoxy was green. It came out well and should be easy to fair without any humps. I know I'm not describing anything new to many of you, but I did like the final product and wanted to pass it on.

Tape in place

Tape removed

Posted: **Mon Jul 01, 2013 10:15 pm**

You are making a lot of progress and your boat looks great. Very good workmanship. My visit with you really inspired me to start on mine. I hope to get my plywood in the next week or so. I am trying to decide how much epoxy and fiberglass to order now. Glenn

Posted: **Wed Jul 03, 2013 12:52 pm**

Thanks, Glenn. Glad to hear you'll be starting soon and I'm looking forward to watching your progress. I would recommend getting the standard epoxy/glass kit from Bateau. You'll get a better idea of what else you'll need after you've been at it for a while. For instance, I've ordered some additional epoxy and fillers for my strakes/reverse chines. Should have gotten fairing mix so will need that before long. I know I'll need more cloth, probably more EZ Fillet and Quick Fair but will wait till after a flip and maybe combine with pigment and some other things. I don't have any comparison, but I have really liked the System Three products and don't think you could go wrong with that, and it should save you some time and head-scratching.

Will

Posted: **Thu Aug 29, 2013 2:13 am**

I have a build update, and would like anyone's input into my plans for a reverse chine. Since my last post I found that there were some areas on the aft part of the chines and on the transom seams that appeared dry/airy/devoid of epoxy. I made the painful but I think right decision to grind away all the epoxy and tape down to bare wood on these joints. I went forward from the transom about 12 ft, until the chine angle becomes more obtuse and where there was no air in the glass. I think the problem was that I didn't round over the edges enough before glassing and/or didn't get enough epoxy into the glass. The second time around I corrected both of those issues and also laid long strips of 3 mil plastic over the joints as peel ply to evacuate the air. The result was very satisfying. Anyhow, after family vacation and work keeping me away from the build I am now back on it.

I sharpened up the transom edges with epoxy/flour/milled glass. That turned out nice.

For the reverse chine, using measurements from the plans for the hull side profile I cut a piece of thin fiberboard and fixed it to the side. It stands proud of the bottom surface by 3/4 inch.

If I make the reverse chine width 4.5 inches along the hull the resulting angle is about 9.5 degrees and would look like this:

I'm planning so far to keep that width the same going forward 8 ft, then would gradually taper it narrower going forward, such as along the line shown.

I'll make the curve smoother in its final form. I will lay some ply on a putty bed in the reverse chine, then cover with putty, then will glass over it after I remove the mold. I'm also going to put a lifting strake on either side, with approximately the same angle. From my study of many production hulls, the angles of the hard/reverse chines and lifting strakes go from horizontal (parallel to the water line) to about the angle I've shown on my build. Any input or advice would be appreciated. Feels good to be working on the build again!

Will

Posted: **Mon Sep 02, 2013 9:01 pm**

Chines are done. Went with the plan above.

Put in some pieces of filler ply.

Molds removed. The white splotches are where I planed down some high spots, further sanding and smoothing to follow. I used mix of flour/chopped glass/milled glass initially, then flour mixture by itself as icing. Strakes are next.

Posted: **Tue Sep 03, 2013 7:57 am**

Good looking work. This is going to be one fine boat. John

Posted: **Tue Sep 03, 2013 11:46 pm**

Thank you, John. I'm standing on the shoulders of you and other boat-building giants.

Posted: **Wed Sep 18, 2013 10:34 pm**

I made 7' strakes from SYP, glued on with Gel Magic and extended the last 1" with flour/milled/chopped glass to be flush with the transom. I hope to glass them this weekend, build the angle up sharp, then on to fairing! When I made the extensions I drilled a few shallow holes in the wood and filled them with putty for an extra bite.

Posted: **Thu Sep 19, 2013 10:23 am**

it all cleaned up nicely .......

I think the angle on the chine flats will work well for you. If I remember from my textbook correctly, after 5% you can start seeing more drag introduced at higher speeds.

Posted: **Sun Oct 06, 2013 12:28 pm**

Here are some new pics.

Strakes are glassed in with 2 overlapping layers of 12 oz biax cloth, and covered with poor man's peel ply.

This is after the final sanding (I think) before fairing.

Posted: **Sun Oct 06, 2013 12:57 pm**

That looks sharp

Nice work Will!

Posted: **Mon Oct 07, 2013 9:01 am**

Thank you, Larry. I put an initial layer of Bateau fairing mix on the transom and the starboard bottom/side. I know there's a lot of sanding in my future, but applying the fairing compound was fun and satisfying. Thanks to you, Joel and others for the clear guidance in how to fair - it would be intimidating without it.

Posted: **Mon Oct 07, 2013 9:18 am**

very, very nice

Posted: **Mon Oct 07, 2013 10:13 am**

Looks great Will. I look forward to seeing it next Monday.

Posted: **Sun Nov 10, 2013 9:23 pm**

One layer of Bateau blended filler on the whole boat, 3 of QFair on the transom and one on the rest. So far so good. I think, at least, since I've never done this before ...

Posted: **Mon Nov 11, 2013 9:42 am**

It certainly looks like you have the right idea, only filling the lows.

The moment of truth comes with the first coat of primer

Posted: **Mon Nov 11, 2013 1:23 pm**

I know I won't be done for a while yet. I have QF #2 on half the hull now, and expect I'll put a third application on before primer. My RO sander has been performing admirably.

Joel, I should be placing an order with you soon for primer, paint and other things. Do you have a recommended bow eye size for the PH18? I will get one for the bow and two for the transom from you.

Will

Posted: **Mon Nov 11, 2013 2:00 pm**

just the normal 3/8" is more than enough. I would get a long one though, the PH has a sharp bow and with all the glass overlaps, it helps to have extra length.

Posted: **Sun Dec 01, 2013 7:10 pm**

I hit a nice milestone today. Got the last sanding on the fairing done yesterday, then sealed it with epoxy today. I'm a little wary of the priming/painting process, but will take my time and all should be well. My thanks go out to all those who have posted about painting. I'm putting S3 primer followed by graphite on the bottom and Sterling Jay Gray on the sides. From what I see today just with the neat epoxy and from what I hear about the Sterling paint, oughtta be nice!

Posted: **Sun Dec 01, 2013 8:10 pm**

Wow! From looking at it I would think you've done this before. Looks great with just the neat epoxy. The primer is going to make it look awesome.

Posted: **Tue Dec 03, 2013 9:24 am**

John, thanks for the compliment. I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out. I'm also ready to flip this boat over and look at a different part of her.

Posted: **Tue Dec 03, 2013 9:26 am**

That looks smooth as a baby's butt

The primer goes on easy, you'll be real happy with that.

Posted: **Tue Dec 03, 2013 10:18 am**

WOW. That looks awesome

My favorite part was putting the primer on it. It really makes it look like a boat.

Will

Posted: **Tue Dec 03, 2013 10:51 am**

Looks awesome!

Is there a reason to put primer under the graphite epoxy ?

Posted: **Tue Dec 03, 2013 11:16 am**

The graphite doesn't really need primer. The reason I do it is that the primer will show up any shortfalls in the fairing and give you an opportunity to fix it.

Posted: **Tue Dec 03, 2013 1:22 pm**

I didn't think I'd put primer under all of the graphite, but thought I could bring it up so it partly went under the edge of the graphite a few inches. By my way of thinking that would give me an even primer base that I could tape off for the graphite, then tape off for the paint and have things be level. I am wide open to suggestions or a better way ….

Posted: **Mon Dec 30, 2013 10:10 pm**

Here she is after three coats of primer. This S3 yacht primer is good stuff! I am very happy with how it turned out. I used a 1/4" nap 'best' roller from HD. It's a little cool in my garage so I'll let it cure a few days, then sand, then apply the graphite.

Posted: **Tue Dec 31, 2013 7:31 am**

Looks great!! I remember when I primed the hull... couldn't keep the smile off my face.. it looked like a real boat (and I knew the fairing was about done, at least on the bottom

) Are you going to graphite to the spray rails in bow area or leave some area for paint? I'm considering going back and using graphite on mine.

Andrew

Posted: **Tue Dec 31, 2013 9:21 am**

Andrew, thanks. It's got me smiling for sure. And if my final paint job turns out as nice as yours I will be a happy man!

As of now I'm planning on graphite on the planing area only, including a little bit up the hull from the chine. How I bring that forward to the keel I haven't worked out just yet.

You may want to consider some of the "white graphite" that Casey used (flyfishingmonk) to match your white hull. http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php ... al#p278810. I gave that some serious consideration too, but finally decided on the standard black.

When the time comes I'm thinking of using a black rub rail like you have. Can you give me any tips on getting it to go around the bow point and the sharp corner at the transom?

Will

Posted: **Tue Dec 31, 2013 3:25 pm**

Thanks Will. I was thinking the same thing as to where to paint the graphite. Thanks for the heads up on the "white graphite". I remembered something about that but forgot where. I'll definitely check that out. As for rub rail, I used the Tessilmare rub rail kits I got off Jamestown Distributers. It's a little more expensive but it was very easy to install. I've heard some horror story's about rub rail installs. Watch the video on Jamestown. Use a heat gun to bend the track around the bow and stern corners.

Posted: **Thu Jan 16, 2014 11:54 pm**

I know I shouldn't complain considering the recent 'vortex' freezing out states north of here, but the cool weather has slowed down my progress a bit. I did a few rounds of sanding and re-priming when it got >55F. So that led to me marking out my line for the graphite. Like others, I shot a horizontal line the whole way. I broke down and got a laser and am really happy that I did. I got this Johnson cross line laser for about $85 from Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Level-Too ... line+laser. It's very easy to use and comes with a carrying case and tripod. I think it's one of the best bangs for the buck I've made tool-wise. Also got my first layer of graphite down! I used a ratio of 9 oz epoxy and 2.5 oz graphite (volume) and used 15 oz total. I used a yellow West roller. I like the way it turned out. Rather than wait for a cure, then sand, I'm going to put down another couple of layers within the 72 hr no-sand window System Three specifies. I also got notice recently that UPS is bringing me my Sterling top coat. Thank you Bateau! And also thanks to so many of my boat-building brethren for the advice and guidance on graphite, and everything really, on the forum. No way could I have done what I have without that!

the laser

the graphite

Posted: **Fri Jan 17, 2014 9:09 am**

WOW that looks real impressive!!

That laser is cool too.

Posted: **Fri Jan 17, 2014 11:20 am**

Really enjoying your methodical clean build.

Posted: **Sat Jan 18, 2014 8:11 pm**

Thank you, guys.

I put on a second coat of 9 oz/2.5 oz, then a third coat of 9 oz/1.5 oz (I got that from a post of Joel's), then pulled the tape.
CL, I used the 3M Edge Lock tape you suggested. Spot on advice once again, Mr. Cracker! The lines came out nice and sharp. Also, thought I'd pass it on that I used my heat gun on high to pass over the last coat and it smoothed out the bubbles and roller stipple almost like magic. I did get a few uglies from the bottom of the cup on the starboard bow but I'm going to leave them be. I'll let the graphite cure fully before taping for paint, so no boat work for a few days.

Posted: **Sat Jan 18, 2014 10:17 pm**

That looks mighty fine right there

CL, I used the 3M Edge Lock tape you suggested. Spot on advice once again, Mr. Cracker!

I only give advice when I know what I'm talking about, usually

That is some very good tape!

Posted: **Sun Mar 23, 2014 11:33 am**

Some progress, finally. Weather and other factors conspired to keep me from painting for a couple of months, but I got it done. This is with 3 coats of Sterling Jay Gray. I'm real happy with the outcome. I followed the Sterling instructions and the info on the forum, including a 2:1:1 ration of base:catalyst:thinner. My son rolled and I tipped. One bit of advice I can pass on is to do no more than 2-3 sq. ft. at a time. We stayed with that for the first coat but for the second coat my son got ahead of me by a couple of sections and we had some coloring inconsistencies. We were careful to stick with 2 sq ft or so for the 3rd coat and got a nice, uniform result. I pulled the tape about 12 hrs after application and it came off easily and clean. I figured I had about 70 sq.ft. to paint. For my first coat I used 8 oz color base, and had about a third left over. For the next two coats I used 2/3 c. base. I had a little left over after the second coat and quite a bit after the third. This paint really goes a long way! I still have over half of my quart of base left.

Next is the flip...

I will post it again in the Power Boats section, but for those in the SE TX area reading this I will have a nice boat stand to give away after the flip. Contact me and it's yours.

Posted: **Sun Mar 23, 2014 5:49 pm**

Nice

Posted: **Sun Mar 23, 2014 7:01 pm**

Thanks, CL. I do have a question for you or anyone else with Sterling paint experience. I tipped horizontally first, then vertically. It doesn't show in the pictures, but with daylight and standing back a bit I see vertical brush marks. It's the same throughout the hull, so it wouldn't have been a matter of the paint needing more thinner as I made my way around the hull. I can live with the brush marks, and the fish won't care, but figure now's the time to ask if others have had the same experience or it the paint has spread out to a perfectly flat surface in others' hands. I can't get it to show in a picture - this is the best I can do. Thanks for any input.

Posted: **Sun Mar 23, 2014 7:31 pm**

Now that's a mirror finish!

Posted: **Mon Mar 24, 2014 9:33 am**

It sounds like you might be over-tipping. That paint doesn't like to be worked too much. I only tip in one direction, vertically, tip it out and move on.

Another thing is the paint will continue to shrink as it cures. Brush marks you saw yesterday may be gone today.

Posted: **Mon Mar 24, 2014 3:33 pm**

Very nice job!

Posted: **Sun Mar 30, 2014 11:29 pm**

Got the flip done today with my family's help. I had two perfectly placed trees across the driveway for the suspension. Casey, I used your dad's rotisserie method and it was perfect - balanced and easy. Now she's on a new cradle and I've got her leveled up in the garage. I'm going to laminate the transom next.

I will ask this question in the Power Boats section so it can be referenced in the future, so if anyone has input on it I would sure appreciate it. I have not made a motor well cut in the transom because I plan on putting a jackplate on and wanted the transom to be flat across the back. I'll need some guidance here ...

I have a forward extension of the cradle that goes nearly to the bow. It was put on after this picture.

Posted: **Mon Mar 31, 2014 1:05 pm**

Neat way to do it. I have a lot of trees but nothing the right size or placement.

Jay Gray doesn't look gray in the sun, it is more blue. Pretty color.

You do beautiful work. Thanks for all of the help you have given me.

Posted: **Mon Mar 31, 2014 7:25 pm**

Hi Will,

Great flip idea, I like the use of the transom clamp setup you have there, great idea.

The build looks awesome, keep it up.

Cheers
Justin

Posted: **Sun Jun 01, 2014 3:31 pm**

A few things I've done since my last post.

Laminated the transom.

Glassed the interior.

Routed out and glassed in a spot for a tranducer. I dropped my router just before this and broke the friggin' base plate. So I couldn't follow a circular pattern and make a pretty hole. Oh well. I have since replaced the broken plate.

Installed the specified 6"x3" backing plate for the boweye. The corner pieces are there to help the glass lay down. There's also a smaller piece of 1/2" ply beneath the main plate. I beveled the sides to match the hull and bedded it all in EZfillet. I covered it with 5 layers of glass.

Tacked in the stringers.

I filleted and glassed in one of them this morning wet on wet.

Following others' advice, I wet out the glass before installing it. Even with the long pieces it worked out great and I bet I got in done in a third the time I would have if I had wet it out in place. I covered my table saw with plastic, wet out the glass about a foot at a time, folded it up as I went along, then unfolded it along the stringer. Easy.

Posted: **Tue Jul 01, 2014 12:13 am**

WOW!!! You have really made a lot of progress. I am VERY impressed. I apologize for being out of the loop the last year or so. It's been a busy season with building a house and having a third baby (now three under the age of 6).

I am glad the stand worked out well and that the flip went smooth.

Your boat looks great! I look forward to watching your progress. It looks like we are at about the same stage.

Casey

Posted: **Tue Jul 01, 2014 9:53 am**

Glad to see you were able to work this weekend. Your work is great looking as always. What size bow eye did you get? I see the ones at Bateau but don't know if the length stated is the thread length or the overall length.

Posted: **Tue Jul 01, 2014 12:34 pm**

Casey and Glenn, thanks for the kind words. We are all three at about the same stage of our builds. I'm looking forward to getting those bulkheads in. That feels like the next big milestone for me.

I got 3 of the 3/8" x 4" bow eyes from Bateau. That size was suggested by Joel. Better long than short, particularly at the bow, and any excess can be cut off.

Will

Posted: **Wed Jul 09, 2014 2:43 pm**

I just cut out two transom pieces exactly like what you did to laminate against the transom that is already there. That looks beefy. Thanks for the good idea.

Casey

Posted: **Wed Jul 09, 2014 7:34 pm**

Very nice work!

Posted: **Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:14 am**

Thanks, guys.

Casey, I installed the transom pieces one at a time. I let the first piece cure, drilled out and filled the holes for the fender washers, then did the second piece. I had dry-fit all the fender washers before applying the glue, so the screws kept the pieces from sliding around during installation. It is beefy, very solid.

Posted: **Thu Jul 10, 2014 10:44 am**

Excellent. Very helpful!

Thank you,

Casey

Posted: **Tue Nov 11, 2014 11:48 pm**

Finally made a little progress... I've got to say that I really didn't enjoy glassing all these stringer boxes, and I'm glad to have that behind me. I made a master pattern for a three rod holder for bulkhead C, duplicated it, laminated to a final thickness of three 3/8" ply pieces, then routed out the final form. There's not much height b/w sole and deck, so three rods in place will have the reels laying on each other, but that's just the way it will be. With the sole cut I'll be able to do a mock up of the console so I can plan chase tubes.

Posted: **Wed Nov 12, 2014 9:56 am**

Your glass work looks very nice. The rod holders came out well. Glad to see you making progress and taking another bite out of the elephant.

Posted: **Thu Dec 04, 2014 8:47 pm**

Sheer clamp is now in place with 2 layers each side of 1/2" marine ply. I used GelMagic and it worked very well. It's impressive how rigid the sheer is now. Pictures are a little fuzzy.

I did this 4 times to complete the installation.

I used a power planer to bring the hull and sheer clamp layers to one level. I had never used a power planer before and hot damn that thing works well! I don't think I could have done the job that nearly as well and no way as fast without it.

Posted: **Thu Dec 04, 2014 9:13 pm**

Looking great Will, nice clean work!

Posted: **Thu Dec 04, 2014 9:17 pm**

Very nice. I use hand planes but have been thinking about getting a power plane. What kind do you have?

Posted: **Thu Dec 04, 2014 9:20 pm**

I have a Makita power plane, certainly makes dressing wood a breeze.

Posted: **Thu Dec 04, 2014 10:15 pm**

I got a Bosch PL1682 for about $100. It's powerful and gave impressive results considering it only has one blade. It chomped through the 1 1/2" transom easily. I'm sure a higher end, 2-blade planer would work even better, but I am very satisfied with the one I have. The blade seemed to cut as nicely at the end of the job as the beginning. This model has a reversible blade. As much as I like hand planes, I'd rather go through a blade or two for jobs like this and not have to sharpen a hand plane blade.

Posted: **Wed Dec 10, 2014 12:21 am**

This is my initial console mock up, 24" W x 22" D x 30" H. Comments or suggestions welcome. For instance, if anyone wishes their console were narrower/wider/taller/shorter etc I'd be happy to hear that. I'm going to get a Bay Star tilting helm, will put a windshield on and will put 2 batteries beneath the console. The gas tank is going under the front deck. I initially thought it was too tall and wide but I'm also getting used to looking at it so not so sure.

Posted: **Wed Dec 10, 2014 7:58 am**

looking good!

Mine is 30" but only one horizontal surface. I think yours is plenty wide and deep since you have the top shelf. Leaves lots of room to get around the sides.

I also put the Baystar system, if you haven't already bought one, specify that you want the new release with the reposition-able connectors and I would also get the Seastar hoses ... I ended up getting the old kit and spending an extra $180 on adapters because their distributor just wanted to unload it. I was pretty pissed off but their customer service (not the distributor but Seastar) is so good, even with me bitching at them lol, that I would go with them again... They even offered to foot the bill and do whatever to make it right but I had already purchased the new items.

edit ... I can't see how much clearance you have behind the console to stand but that helm sticks out a good 4 inches.

Posted: **Tue Dec 16, 2014 12:46 pm**

Hi Will,
Just inside your hull on top there is a "inside rub tail". Is this structural and required on the design - what is it called?

Good looking work.

Antonie

Posted: **Wed Dec 17, 2014 12:34 pm**

Yes, this is a 2"x1" sheer clamp and is specified in the plans. I got the 1" thickness with 2 x 1/2" pieces of ply, but you can do it in 1/4" pieces or a single full thickness piece with some kerfing. I am also going to install a Tessilmare rub rail but haven't decided on their narrower or wider model.

Thanks for the compliment.

Posted: **Fri Jan 02, 2015 6:04 pm**

I just discovered this build, nice work, really nice !

Posted: **Wed Jan 21, 2015 2:46 pm**

Mark, a delayed thanks to you for the compliment. Your build has been great to follow. I'm ready to order toys like jack plate, trim tabs, steering, sonar, gas tank, etc. Fun stuff!

Will

Posted: **Mon Feb 09, 2015 11:30 pm**

The stringers, bulkheads below the sole and all cleats have been triple coated, and I have installed the cleats in the forward 3 sections. I used the Cracker hot glue method to fix the cleats to the bulkheads and hull sides and it worked really well. Thanks again, Larry.

I have a question. There is a 2' span between the inner stringers. With the sole loose in position there is a bit of give when I walk over that span. Maybe that give will go away with the sole glued and glassed in, but would anyone recommend putting a spanner or two in that gap to support the sole?

Posted: **Tue Feb 10, 2015 7:09 pm**

I "felt" the same thing between the inner stringers. It isn't as firm as the area between the inner and outer stringers and the outer stringer and the side. However, when you tab in your console the rear of the console should brace this area. The front sole piece is also more flexible. I wish I had put in a 3" deep brace between the inner stingers to provide additional support. It isn't bad, it just isn't as firm as the sides. In your case I might put in 2 braces since my front section of the sole is only a 3' span and yours is 4'. It is almost no weight and gives you peace of mind.

Posted: **Tue Feb 10, 2015 7:38 pm**

Are you foaming it? I think you will be fine once you glue it down and glass it, especially with flotation foam under the sole.

Posted: **Wed Feb 11, 2015 8:32 am**

Yes, I'm planning on foam and hadn't considered the support I'd get from that. I think I'll still put in some cross pieces. Should be no flex at that point.

Posted: **Wed Feb 11, 2015 9:02 am**

Will you foam the centre box as well..? Or just the two side boxes on each side..?

Posted: **Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:38 am**

I did not foam the space between the stringers, just the two side boxes. For flotation purposes that should be sufficient. I used 8 gallons of foam but I didn't get the swell published in the literature. I got better towards the end but still used a lot. If I did the foam again I might get quotes from the home insulation contractors to come fill it up. I don't know if they have a closed cell foam suitable for boat building or not.

Posted: **Wed Feb 11, 2015 12:06 pm**

Maybe that give will go away with the sole glued and glassed in, but would anyone recommend putting a spanner or two in that gap to support the sole?

Once you "pin" the sole with epoxy on each side of that span it becomes stiff. While its just floating there, the sole/deck has very little stiffness.

Posted: **Wed Feb 11, 2015 12:22 pm**

swglenn wrote: I used 8 gallons of foam but I didn't get the swell published in the literature. I got better towards the end but still used a lot.

Foam works best with warm temperatures. Even though it was summer and 90 degrees out when I poured mine, I got a heater and warmed the space that was going to be foamed, so the box and the air was very warm when I poured the foam. This time of year you're just not likely to get as good a result, but you can improve the situation with a little effort.

Posted: **Wed Feb 11, 2015 1:19 pm**

Wouter wrote:Will you foam the centre box as well..? Or just the two side boxes on each side..?

I have waffled on that, but will probably foam the center. It's a big space and will take a lot of foam. Since that's the point of it in the first place I think I'll do it.

Once you "pin" the sole with epoxy on each side of that span it becomes stiff. While its just floating there, the sole/deck has very little stiffness.

Thanks, Joel.

Posted: **Wed Feb 11, 2015 4:02 pm**

Your boat is looking nice

To add stiffness to your deck, you can put a swatch of 6-8 oz. glass on the bottom side of the area you are concerned about.
I did that on my front deck hatch. It doesn't flex despite being about 24" x 30" with only edge supports.

Posted: **Wed Feb 11, 2015 4:40 pm**

Boat looks great, very clean work.

All great points about the foam. Once it's poured in, it adds another level of stiffness to the hull. I know it's not considered a structural element, but if you have ever tried to remove it from a boat and seen the strength it adds once it's bonded to the hull, its amazing.

Posted: **Thu Feb 12, 2015 12:18 pm**

Aripeka Angler wrote:Your boat is looking nice
To add stiffness to your deck, you can put a swatch of 6-8 oz. glass on the bottom side of the area you are concerned about.
I did that on my front deck hatch. It doesn't flex despite being about 24" x 30" with only edge supports.

Thanks. That's a good tip.

Posted: **Tue Mar 10, 2015 9:29 pm**

Awesome looking build!

I'm going to keep a close eye on your build. I really like the PH18 plans.

Posted: **Mon Mar 16, 2015 11:51 am**

I foamed all but the center section. More than enough flotation and will make the hull quieter in rough water. incidentally, I learned that a quieter hull "feels" smoother as the banging noise makes your brain think it is a rougher ride. I have been in quiet hulls and there is some truth to it.

Back to flotation; my center is mostly fuel tank forward of bulkhead D, below/behind D is livewell, then pumps and hoses between D and E and bilge area behind that. Hop this helps.

Posted: **Wed Apr 01, 2015 11:55 pm**

I pondered over chase tubes a long time and found it very helpful to look at what other builders have done. They're not finished yet, but so far here are mine.

View looking towards the bow. 2" x 2 from the console to starboard stern. The forward one will have shift, throttle and battery. Aft will have harness, jack plate, sonar and maybe other wires. The other is 1" for the gas line. I tapered the pvc fittings for the gas line, and tapered the leading edge of the gas line itself to make sure it goes easily. My speedytank should arrive next week and once it's installed b/w bulkheads A/B I will run the fuel chase forward.

Close-up of the same.

Starboard stern. I will tweak it some more to have sweeps on all 3.

Console mock-up in place.

Chases inside starboard side of console.

I have the following questions and would appreciate anyone's input.

I will put a chase on the port side from the stern to the console and continue it to the bow. This will carry wires for the tank, navigation, trolling motor, bilge/bait pumps, trim tabs. Is a 1.5" chase sufficient or do I need bigger?

I have a 6" Bob's action jack. The transom has not been drilled yet. My transom goes straight across (no motor well). The build plan's motor well cut out is 2 3/8" deep and the standard mounting holes for a motor should be 2" (really 1 7/8") below that, so can I quit worrying about it and proceed with putting the upper jack plate holes 4 3/8" below my transom edge? I'm pretty sure that's right but don't want to overlook something before drilling.

Any reason I should not use this fuel filter/separator? If so are there other suggestions?

Thanks in advance, Will

Posted: **Thu Apr 02, 2015 7:55 am**

You do real pretty work

One comment...

The forward one will have shift, throttle and battery

It is not considered good or safe practice to mix electrical cables with control cables in the same chase. It's also against ABYC building regulations, probably USCG too. Best to split those up.

can I quit worrying about it and proceed with putting the upper jack plate holes 4 3/8" below my transom edge? I'm pretty sure that's right but don't want to overlook something before drilling.

I think that would be fine. Chase tube sizes should be good too.

I wouldn't use a filter with a glass or plastic bowl with gasoline. If you use it, don't put in inclosed place. My clumsy self would be likely to break it, I'd go all metal.

Posted: **Fri Apr 03, 2015 9:25 am**

Cracker Larry wrote:It is not considered good or safe practice to mix electrical cables with control cables in the same chase. It's also against ABYC building regulations, probably USCG too. Best to split those up.

Thanks again, Larry. I will split them up as you recommend. Not mentioned above is that I'm planning on putting the steering cables in with the shifter/throttle.

I wouldn't use a filter with a glass or plastic bowl with gasoline. If you use it, don't put in inclosed place. My clumsy self would be likely to break it, I'd go all metal.

I guess a more elemental question is whether a filter with a drainable bowl is important to have vs just the twist on canister. Do you use a drainable metal bowl or just the canister?

Posted: **Fri Apr 03, 2015 9:43 am**

Are you using mechanical or hydraulic steering? The mechanical cable is fairly fat, needs a lot of room, hydraulic tubing very skinny.

I don't use a drain-able bowl type, spin on metal canister for me with gas engines. If it were diesel, I'd go with the one you pictured.

Posted: **Fri Apr 03, 2015 10:02 am**

I have a BayStar hydraulic system. The man I've been working with to get my etec has been very helpful by providing the binnacle, engine harness, cables, steering helm/hoses so I can accurately lay out the chases and console. I have done a test run with the steering hoses and shift/throttle cables through the same chase and, like you're saying, it's all good.

Posted: **Fri Apr 03, 2015 10:07 am**

Cool, the Baystar system is what we put on the GF18. It's very nice and those small diameter hoses are much easier to deal with than a mechanical cable.

Posted: **Thu May 07, 2015 12:21 am**

I have finalized all the chase tubes. They are glued together and their compartments are ready for foam. It was handy to use the heat gun to soften and shape the tubes where needed. I found other builders' pictures of their chase tubes to be very helpful, so here goes:
starboard rear hatch

port rear hatch

overview

bow and tank hatches

What I'm thinking about the space b/w bulkheads D & E is to insulate the whole thing and partition the space into 3 hatches. At port will be the bait well. The middle and starboard spaces will be for storage, but because they'll be insulated they could each serve as a fish box and/or cooler. I would drain the port bait well out the port hull. The middle space would drain into the starboard space, and the starboard space would drain out it's hull. The colored lines came out screwy when I saved the image, but the partitions still show. Comments welcome.

Posted: **Thu May 07, 2015 12:26 am**

Looks impressive to me Will, but I am not there yet so everything at that stage looks impressive!

I can't think too far ahead or it does my head in

I do have one question (and will probably post it in the technical section when I get there), I see everyone has drain holes at the keel for all the frames, but what about the other compartments, will they ever get water in them, do they drain as well.

I know in theory water shouldn't get in there, but why would it get to the keel too?

Posted: **Thu May 07, 2015 2:00 am**

Whether and how to drain all those stringer boxes has been a subject of debate. I feel like if they are sealed, like mine will be, they shouldn't need to be drained. I am draining the keel space below the console b/c I will have a drain from the gas tank space heading that way. It's not in my pictures b/c I haven't installed it yet. If it weren't for that I think I'd be able to seal that space so it wouldn't need to be drained. Forward of the console I will have that drain tube just perforate the bulkhead and I will seal it up good, with no limber hole in that bulkhead. This is all new territory for me and I don't have any real world experience to guide me, just what I get from the forum primarily. I hope I'm right.

Posted: **Fri May 08, 2015 1:34 pm**

Will,

Every time I think I am gaining ground on you, you blow right past me! The rig is looking awesome!

On the hatch layout, I decided to just go with two large insulated compartments, because once you put the sole in they shrink quite a bit, which would make the side compartments pretty small. I am plumbing both to be used as either a live well, ice box or just storage. That and I could buy one less hatch by doing it that way!

One question for you, on the foam, any indication of a total foam you are going to need? About to place an order, but as expensive as that stuff is I don't want to buy more than I need!!

Also, what size fuel tank did you end up going with?

Posted: **Fri May 08, 2015 3:30 pm**

Dustin, I have 6 gallons (so far). Those pictures show how far 2 gallons went. Since I took these pictures I have used another 2 gallons in the stringer boxes with the chase tubes, though they're not close to being filled. With the last 2 gallons I think all the between-stringer and stringer-chine spaces front to back should be filled, though I am not going to put any in the aft-most area by the transom. I'll also fill beneath the gas tank and anchor locker. That will leave the keel spaces aft of bulkhead B unfilled. I think I'd like to fill them, too, so I'll need another 2 gallons for sure, maybe more. So final usage will be 8-10 gallons.

The speedytank is 24x20x9 and by my calculation is a little over 18 gals, but it was called 17 gals at speedytank. Either way, I'm sure it's more gas than I'll burn in a weekend.

Posted: **Wed Jul 22, 2015 11:39 pm**

I have made a bit of picture-worthy progress. I've got a little over 2 years into this build now. Although it's a slow process I have enjoyed daydreaming and sweating over the countless small details along the way.

I used a total of 10 gallons foam. Some things I have learned about foam that may help others: get it warm, of course, which I did by putting the jugs in hot water in the sink. Pour it just before it kicks and begins to foam. Pouring/dumping into a small area allows for more heating of the foam blob as it expands and I think leads to better expansion than if the mix were poured over a wide area.

Inspired by Larry, I put sections of 2x6 level with the stringer tops which could help with t-top installation some day. I'm not planning on that for now but I do want to put a tie down for a cooler and the 2x6's will help make that secure.

Front lockers

The starboard locker will be separated from the gas tank space. At port I have tubes for grounding/sending wires and the fuel line. I slightly angled the floor the tank rests on so it favors the aft port corner. That way I'll get the last of my fuel if I need it. I put a locker drain in that corner as well.

Next step is to install the sole!

Posted: **Thu Jul 23, 2015 2:51 am**

Very nice and clean work!

Posted: **Fri Jul 24, 2015 8:46 am**

Looking good Will!

What are you using to paint the inside of your lockers? Did you have to do a lot of fairing or just paint over the glass?

Also, are you going to fill the stringer boxes to the top with foam? I am currently foaming, and just letting the foam expanding above the stringers and the cutting it down flush, but man it is a pain!

Not sure if you said it earlier but what motor are you going to put on your boat?

Getting closer!

Posted: **Fri Jul 24, 2015 9:50 am**

Looking good Will. As always you have thought out how you want to do things. The idea about slanting the gas tank sole is good. Wish I had thought of that.

Posted: **Fri Jul 24, 2015 4:18 pm**

Thanks for the compliments, gentlemen.

Dustinwg wrote:Looking good Will!

What are you using to paint the inside of your lockers? Did you have to do a lot of fairing or just paint over the glass?

Also, are you going to fill the stringer boxes to the top with foam? I am currently foaming, and just letting the foam expanding above the stringers and the cutting it down flush, but man it is a pain!

Not sure if you said it earlier but what motor are you going to put on your boat?

Getting closer!

I used the grey epoxy pigment from Bateau. A 4 oz container is enough for everything I need: the front lockers as shown as well as the transom and hatches b/w bulkheads D/E. I sanded the glass down almost as much as I would have if I wanted it to be faired and finished nicely, then faired it with a single application of the purple Bateau fairing mix, then applied 3 coats of tinted epoxy. Somebody on the forum recently posted that they didn't fair the glass in the hatches and he found that dirt would collect.

The stringer boxes for the most part are filled level with the stringer tops, though I ran out before I could fill the forward center box under the sole. I just couldn't see getting more. As it is the boxes are all filled between the bow all the way to bulkhead E, though I left the space beneath the console without foam.

I have a 90 etec in a box at Red Wing Boat Co. in Houston waiting for me. I'd like to think I'll be ready for it by end of August, but will need to work pretty hard to make that deadline.

Posted: **Tue Jul 28, 2015 2:37 pm**

Will,

Great work, it is really coming together. I am in the process of rebuilding a 20' Bay Hawk. I have open runs on my stringers, for better foam application I am guessing that bulk heading those off would be better than 18ish foot runs. My goal on the next 4 days is to figure out a flipping schedule to fix some chips and cracks on the keel. I like the rotiserie method you used; I am thinking of building "flipping stands" out of 4x4's secured to the ground with 36" ground stakes and ratchet straps, then lift the bow and stern and roll it onto a built on site frame. In my mind it will work great

Posted: **Tue Jul 28, 2015 6:26 pm**

Davis, I wouldn't go to the trouble of damming up your stringer spaces . I would just pour the foam in one spot as opposed to pouring down the length of a stringer. My rotisserie flipping method was borrowed from Casey in North Dallas. It worked great for my empty hull but might be a bit dicey for a heavy hull.

Will

Posted: **Tue Jul 28, 2015 6:55 pm**

Will,

As you can see I have the sole removed and heavy old styrofoam blocks; I left the front casting deck because it is still in good shape and after I roll it back over (after fixing the bottom) I will remove the transom. I fell in love with these Bay Hawks about 15 years ago and I find myself not wanting another boat.

Posted: **Wed Jul 29, 2015 12:49 am**

Got the sole glued in and man that feels good.

I positioned a layer of 1/2" ply beneath the console to get more bite if I wind up mounting batteries, charger, etc to the floor of the console.

I kept the boys from their bedtime to lay some glue. They are 2 years older than when we first got the hull panels together. They can hunch over a lot better than I can.

I planed out a recess for the biax tape joining the pieces, 1/64" was the lowest setting on my planer and that seemed right.

Posted: **Wed Jul 29, 2015 8:33 am**

That's what I'm talking about! Bet it feels good to stand up on the deck!

Looks great!

Posted: **Wed Jul 29, 2015 9:44 am**

I'd call that a milestone

Won't hurt those boys to be late for bed a time or 2.

Posted: **Tue Aug 04, 2015 12:21 pm**

Will,

Quick question, did you cover the inside (ie the sole and bulkheads inside the hatches) of your hatches in the bow with fiberglass cloth or just coat it with epoxy?

Just got the sole glued in on the front compartments and did not know if just the glass tape at the perimeter is good enough or if I need to glass the entire inside. I like how yours turned out and wanted to follow suit.

Posted: **Wed Aug 05, 2015 12:53 am**

I put 12 ox biax on the bottoms of all the hatch spaces, and on the sides of the starboard forward hatch and the anchor locker. I didn't bring the bottom biax up the sides at all, just cut them to fit the bottom only. All the perimeter joints are glassed with 6" biax tape like you mentioned.

I like the way the hatches turned out. But I ain't gonna lie to you, they look better in the picture than they do in the real.

Posted: **Wed Sep 02, 2015 11:51 pm**

Got my trailer today. It came from Tex-All Aluminum Mfg in Montgomery, TX, about 30 mins from my house. He's made trailers for 2 other phantoms also (Casey and Glenn). The boat stayed at his place a few days to have the bunks placed beneath the stringers. With the folding tongue it fits nicely into the garage.

If anybody in/near east TX needs a trailer I'd recommend giving him a call.

Posted: **Thu Sep 03, 2015 12:06 am**

Looking good Will

Posted: **Thu Sep 03, 2015 9:29 am**

I like that trailer set-up you have. Looks like the placed the bunks right under the stringers. If you don't mind me asking, what did that set you back? And what is the overall length with the tongue folded?

That would make it easy to order from them being they already have the set up now after building trailers for 3 PH18s.

Looking good!

Posted: **Thu Sep 03, 2015 12:27 pm**

I ordered mine after Will and paid $2500. He got his a little cheaper. The trailer comes torsion axles and with Vault hubs that don't need any lube or checking for 5 years. They are much better than Buddy Bearings which you have to add grease to routinely and have a bad trait of blowing the rear grease seal and letting water into the bearings. Salt water is not good on bearings.

All of the wiring connections use shrink connectors. Brake lights are LED's. The winch post is galvanized steel. An aluminum winch post is prone to shear off in an accident letting your boat leave the trailer and possibly relocate to your truck bed.

Ty will let you take the trailer with a set of trial bunks. Once your boat is on the trailer he will take it back and custom fit the trailer to the boat. Casey has pictures of his boat suspended above the trailer while permanent bunks are located and then welded to the trailer frame insuring a perfect fit.

I drove from S Louisiana to get mine. It was still less expensive than the stock trailers available here and better built.

Posted: **Thu Sep 03, 2015 9:52 pm**

Dustin, total cost was $2225. Mine was less than Glenn's because I had contacted Ty quite some time ago and he charged me the quote he gave me then. My process was just like Glenn described: brought my empty trailer from his place to the house with universal bunks bolted on, brought it back with my boat, then picked it up completed.

Ty has a great reputation and he was very easy to work with.

With the tongue folded the trailer extends 15" beyond the tip of the bow. The tongue extension is 31". There is 4" b/w the chine and the inside surface of the wheel fender and 13" b/w the chine and the outer surface.

Posted: **Thu Sep 03, 2015 10:12 pm**

Man you guys have it good when it comes to trailers. Around here you do not even ask the price of aluminium trailers. Galvanized trailers go for one dollar per rated pound. That is stock, if you want it fitted to the boat you do that yourself or go rob a bank

Love your PH18. I have thought about one several times.
Fuzz

Posted: **Fri Sep 04, 2015 2:01 pm**

Fuzz wrote:Man you guys have it good when it comes to trailers. Around here you do not even ask the price of aluminium trailers. Galvanized trailers go for one dollar per rated pound. That is stock, if you want it fitted to the boat you do that yourself or go rob a bank

... true, but being able to boat/fish/explore in Alaska: priceless!

Posted: **Sun Sep 27, 2015 5:22 pm**

Fellow builders, advice sought. Here is my console.

And after some tweaking here is a mockup of my final layout. The switch at top right is for trim tabs, bottom right is ignition switch. It seems fine to me, but does anybody have any reason I shouldn't begin to cut holes in my console with this layout?

As an aside, I got these yesterday from CostCo to replace bulbs in one of three fluorescent fixtures in my garage. They are very bright and have a nicer color than fluorescent. Two thumbs up.

Posted: **Sun Sep 27, 2015 6:03 pm**

Personally, I don't like reaching behind the wheel to get to a switch. I had the 'Trimdicator' thing on my last boat. Had 'nuff room to mount it just above the shifter/throttle. When they're behind the wheel they're hard to see and unless you memorize each one you'll find yourself looking down a lot to find the switch. It's tough on such a small panel.

Posted: **Sun Sep 27, 2015 10:16 pm**

Kb, thanks. I don't think that's going to be an issue. I have a tilt helm and the wheel is 7" away from the surface. I can get to the switch sitting or standing without having to snake my hand beneath the wheel.

Posted: **Sun Sep 27, 2015 10:36 pm**

Will, could you put the ignition and trim tab switch on the vertical face of console below where all the rest of the controls are? I'm with KB, the switches behind the wheel could be a pain

Posted: **Mon Sep 28, 2015 9:40 am**

Good idea, I could mount the trim tab switch on the vertical surface and will look into that. If the ignition switch were there I'd worry about banging into the key with my legs. I had originally had a binnacle mount with the integrated switch but changed to the remote switch for that reason also. That key sticks out enough I think to cause trouble.

Posted: **Mon Sep 28, 2015 10:45 am**

I'm with you there. Don't put the Ign. switch where you can possibly hit it with you legs or knee. I've broken off a few keys. Trim tab control needs to be in easy reach and probably not behind the wheel.

Posted: **Mon Oct 12, 2015 11:29 pm**

Made some progress on the console. I used fiberboard templates to rout out access hatches. The two facing forward will be covered by the cooler below and a back cushion above. I figure the only time I'll need to remove them is for rigging and moving batteries in/out, so rather than usual hatch covers I will apply some plywood as backing blocks inside the console and will attach the hatch covers with screws and finish washers. I'm going to relieve the backing ply to allow for a gasket. For the aft facing hatch I was thinking of take-apart hinges at the bottom and latches at the top.

Template in place.

Routed out hatches.

I covered the whole console with 12 oz biax, then cut out the hatches once cured. A shelf will go at a point above battery level. There's enough space at the bottom of the console for offset layers of biax tape.

Posted: **Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:10 am**

Looks real good, Will

Posted: **Tue Oct 13, 2015 8:32 am**

Great job Will. If I had it to do again I would maximize the size of the access hatch on the bow side of the console. I dang near dislocated my elbows more than once trying to get both arms in my little hatch to wire/hook up steering/etc.

Your hatch looks wider than mine, so I'm sure you'll be fine. Wiring the console was a complete PITA because of the small access.

Will

Posted: **Tue Oct 13, 2015 4:16 pm**

I left the top of my console off so I could reach in from the top for wiring access. I put in cleats and glued the top down after the wiring was completed.

I bought some take apart hinges for my console doors from GemLux. They only sell one side. If you install on the other side they fall out. http://www.gemlux.com/catalog/hinge-offset-misc/2680

I didn't find any others but I may have missed them.

Console looks great. Good work!

Posted: **Sat Oct 17, 2015 12:32 am**

Thanks, guys, for the kind words. Gotta say I'm happy to make some more tangible steps. I know I have many more to go. I laugh at my previous estimates of when I'd be ready to splash her. 2.5 years into it so far. I keep thinking I've made my last of multiple epoxy/EZ Fillet orders but the stuff just gets eaten up and I know I'll need more. I've got so much gear and wood and stuff laying around the garage. It's chaos, but it's fun chaos and I'm having a great time. I thank the forum for that.

Posted: **Sun Nov 08, 2015 7:54 pm**

Got the console faired and installed. Two layers of offset 6" biax tape on the outside, one on the inside. I appreciate the previous input re my console layout. It may look in the pictures like the wheel could get in the way of the controls, but when I'm sitting/standing at the console that's not the case.

Posted: **Sun Nov 08, 2015 8:21 pm**

Looks great Will. Lots of room to get to the switches. Like the tilt wheel.

Posted: **Mon Nov 09, 2015 8:10 am**

Great work. I am taking the boat and trailer to Ty on Thursday to get the bunks changed out. I hope to get it done in a day and head home so I won't be able to stop by. If something changes I will give you a call.

Posted: **Tue Nov 10, 2015 12:48 am**

Thanks, guys.

Glenn, I understand the appeal of getting it done in one day, but if plans change and you could swing by I'd love to see you and your boat.

Posted: **Sat Nov 28, 2015 9:56 am**

I have finally finished rod extensions going forward from the cockpit on both sides. This is a piece of 1/2" ply drilled out half-way from each side with different sized forstner bits.

Here it is mounted from cockpit and hatch sides.

This is a bracket to support the extensions.

And the extensions in place. I'm showing the port side because it looks better than starboard, which has some wiggles to the extension tubes. The tubes are 1" electrical conduit which happen to be the same color as the tinted epoxy.

Posted: **Fri Dec 04, 2015 3:04 pm**

Will, your rod tube set up is top notch! How long of a rod can you get in the tubes?

And that console turned out great! Did you glass the entire inside of the console?

Posted: **Fri Dec 04, 2015 11:54 pm**

Thanks, Dustin. The tubes are about 33". With the rod holders at bulkhead C I can get 7' spinning/casting rods and 9' fly rods in place. A spinning rod can rest in the rod holder and the tip fits into the tube easily. That is, the bigger guides don't get in the way.

I put 6" biax tape on all inside joints of the console. That wound up covering a lot of the inside surface with glass but I didn't put any more glass in besides that.

When do we get new pics of your build?

Posted: **Tue Dec 15, 2015 6:01 pm**

That's good to hear about the rod holders, as I was hoping to be able to use the rod holders for conventional and fly tackle.

On the console, that is what I was planning on doing on the inside as well, so I am glad to hear that the console is solid enough with 6" tape only on the inside!

Hope to get some new photos up soon, just been doing a lot of figuring and head scratching lately with regard to livewell and console layout, so not much to take photos of, but I think I have a plan and hope to make some serious headway in the near future. The no more daylight savings thing really has me unmotivated to do boat work. I mean it's dark at 6:00 pm!!

I am about to place an order for the trailer from the guy you used. Talked to him on the phone and seemed like a good dude. About how long did you say it took to take delivery from the time you ordered?

Posted: **Wed Dec 16, 2015 11:25 am**

Dustinwg wrote:...just been doing a lot of figuring and head scratching lately

I know what you mean. I think the head scratching has been one of the most fun parts of my build.

I don't recall how long it was between placing my trailer order and it being ready for pickup. Because of work it took me a while to find the time to pick it up, so for me I really didn't have a wait. One thing for sure is that Ty will communicate with you quickly and answer any questions you have along the way. I'm sure you'll be happy with the experience.

Posted: **Tue Dec 22, 2015 7:08 pm**

Nice work Will. Really nice. And I know what you mean about the head scratching - I have had just as much fun designing as I have building. A second set of eyes (wife) has been very valuable too...

Posted: **Wed Dec 23, 2015 1:56 am**

Dustin if it makes you feel any better the sun rises around 1000 here and is set by 1515. Now that is a short day, but better than some others like the guy building up in Nome.

Fuzz

Posted: **Tue Feb 02, 2016 11:49 am**

Will, have you started messing with the rub rail on your boat yet? Just curious if you were planning on putting a strip of plywood rub rail on the outside of the sheer to install the rub rail on top of, or if you were just going to put the rub rail directly to the sheer?

Posted: **Tue Feb 02, 2016 11:51 pm**

I haven't purchased it yet but have made a decision on it. I am going to use Tessilmare Radial 1 5/8" black rub rail. It can apparently take tight corners nicely. I am going to mount it directly on the sheer, no strip beneath. Smokymountain put it on his PH18 and was happy with it. You can find vendors and installation videos easily. I haven't figured out whether black end caps are available, if not I'll use stainless.

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/mate-usa ... plete-kits

Here are some sample pieces, black 1 1/4" and 1 5/8" and white 1 1/4".

Posted: **Wed Feb 03, 2016 9:05 pm**

I used Tessilmare, found it very easy to do and no trouble at all doing corners. Seems like I saw somewhere that Bateau sells it in their store too? Not sure. I don't remember what size I used but I sure would use it again. I went with white and regret that; black wouldn't mark up so easily.

Dougster

Posted: **Sat Feb 06, 2016 7:39 pm**

Dougster, did you mount the rail directly on the hull or did you lay a strip down first?

Posted: **Sun Feb 07, 2016 2:29 am**

Been pondering what type of rub rail to use on our ST 21 Noosa River build. Just discovered your solution - nice. Have decided to follow your example, in black. Thanks willg and dougster!

Posted: **Sun Feb 07, 2016 10:06 am**

I layed down a wood rubrail first, from three layers of scrap 1/4" ply, I believe. Then put the Tessilmare rail over that. I screwed the rail in, then took it off, over drilled the screw holes, filled with thickened epoxy, and put the rail back on using the filled holes for the screws. Wasn't as much trouble as it sounds.

Dougster

Posted: **Sun Feb 07, 2016 4:26 pm**

I layed down a wood rubrail first, from three layers of scrap 1/4" ply, I believe. Then put the Tessilmare rail over that. I screwed the rail in, then took it off, over drilled the screw holes, filled with thickened epoxy, and put the rail back on using the filled holes for the screws. Wasn't as much trouble as it sounds.

My plan also!

Posted: **Mon Feb 08, 2016 7:45 am**

Will, thanks for the info. I was hoping the sheer clamp would be enough to not have to install strips on the outside of the sheer.

I called Tessilmare after seeing that they sent you samples and ordered a sample of the radial like you have, and the also the Sphera, which has a stainless steel insert to check out. Also called Taco and ordered a sample of the rigid vinyl with stainless steel insert.

I like the looks of the stainless but am worried that it will not bend around the bow without flattening out.

Posted: **Mon Feb 08, 2016 3:30 pm**

Dustin, with the sheer clamp and hull together I have 1 1/4" thickness to mount the rub rail, same as yours. I think/hope that will be enough. Looks like it will be a while before I'm installing it, so I'll look to you if you get there first.

Posted: **Tue Mar 29, 2016 9:35 pm**

Since my last post I have installed Lenco 9x9 trim tabs, finished the inside of my hatches, made mounting blocks for pumps/switches/bus bars, etc., and have done a little wiring. Using 1" closed cell sheets I insulated the port/starboard hatches b/w bulkheads D and E. This way I can use those hatches as coolers. The one on port is also plumbed as a bait well. The plywood sides have been filleted and taped, and all surfaces are covered with biax. I have also installed 4 brass drain tubes - thanks go out to Larry for loaning his flaring tools, they worked great!

Starboard hatch. Not shown is that it is now plumbed with a 1" drain in the aft corner.

Port hatch/bait well. I eased the corners a bit with fiberglass sections from 2" PVC.

This is a water pump connected to a seacock. From the pump I have a Y-valve which will go to a wash-down hose or fresh water inflow to the bait well. On the back of the bulkhead is a Rule Oxygenator recirculating system for the bait well.

Posted: **Tue Mar 29, 2016 9:47 pm**

Those look great!

I have also installed 4 brass drain tubes - thanks go out to Larry for loaning his flaring tools, they worked great!

You are very welcome

Posted: **Wed Mar 30, 2016 1:33 pm**

Very well thought out and clean work.

Posted: **Fri May 06, 2016 7:34 pm**

Picking up on most of the PH builds and yours is very very Good, congrats on your build thus far, will be following your progress.

Posted: **Sat May 07, 2016 11:27 am**

Thanks, LGF, it's been a lot of fun. This forum has been key. I followed it quite a while before pulling the trigger on my build. Looking forward to seeing yours come together.

Posted: **Sat May 07, 2016 11:59 am**

Same here, my leap over the edge took five years give or take, but it was fishing from an unstable bathtub and the following of builds here in the last couple of weeks that was the final push!

Do you know a good divorce lawyer?

Posted: **Sat May 07, 2016 12:29 pm**

Will,

You've been pretty quiet lately...lets see some pics!

Posted: **Sat May 07, 2016 3:37 pm**

Ditto

Posted: **Sun May 08, 2016 12:29 am**

OK, fellers, here you go. It's true, not many pics from me lately but I've actually been fairly busy fitting cleats for the deck, wiring, adding gunnel supports, and today I put some primer on. That felt good! I think I have enough left over from the gallon of S3 primer I used for the hull to get 3 coats on - will be close.

Cleats on. Using the boat for storing various things.

The gunnel supports will allow a 9" wide surface that follows the contour of the sheer.

Primer.

Posted: **Sun May 08, 2016 4:00 am**

Man that looks good, makes me want to kick this flu virus where it hurts and start cutting something, sanding it (like there isn't so much sanding in a build) and gluing it together etc etc, just dunno what I'll be cutting and gluing as I still haven't bought any materials for the build!

Really looks fantastic Will.

Posted: **Mon May 09, 2016 12:07 am**

It's looking great!

Posted: **Tue May 10, 2016 12:10 am**

Looks great Will! What are you figuring for your splash date? Looks like we are neck and neck...might need to get a little bet together for some extra motivation!!

Posted: **Tue May 10, 2016 11:10 pm**

Dustin, I could use the extra motivation but I can think of two good reasons I'd probably lose that bet. One, I have 'recalculated' my estimated launch date several times. This time last year I was seriously thinking I'd launch by the end of the summer. Of 2015. Two, you are sneaky fast with your boat building. You got that nice console knocked out and the deck installed in pretty short order!

Posted: **Wed May 11, 2016 1:28 am**

Sneaky? That's how I am also getting it done, mine is just sneaky wrt the Wife-Boss

On the deck topic, is my deduction correct that the deck only gets affixed to the top of the bulkheads and shear cleats by means of epoxy glue? Or does it get glassed somewhere somehow?

Posted: **Wed May 11, 2016 8:05 am**

Will, I hear ya on the moving the finish date over and over again, but I'm ready to stop sanding fiberglass and start wetting a line. I have given myself a deadline, to be done by the end of the year. Folks come by the house and say "Man looks like your almost done...you will be on the water in no time!" and all I can think about are all of the little things that need to get done before that day comes!

I wouldn't say that I am sneaky fast, I just get to a point where say screw it I am not leaving the shop until I get these decks cut out, or this glassing done, or whatever other big project I have been putting off. Ends up making for long weeknights and beat down days at work.

On a different note, I found out that a friend of mine down the road is a closet boat builder. He has built a CS25, Panga22 and Phantom 18, with the Phantom 18 being the one he just finished about 6 months ago. He asked if I wanted to go run the Phantom when he found out I was building one. We went out and you are not going to be disappointed by the performance of this boat. He had a 115 four stroke Yamaha on it and at WOT we running close to 55 MPH, and it was extremely quick to plane! And man you talk about stable...both he and I stood on one side (both of us being 200 lbs) and it barely even moved! Talk about motivation!!

Posted: **Wed May 11, 2016 8:05 am**

Will, I hear ya on the moving the finish date over and over again, but I'm ready to stop sanding fiberglass and start wetting a line. I have given myself a deadline, to be done by the end of the year. Folks come by the house and say "Man looks like your almost done...you will be on the water in no time!" and all I can think about are all of the little things that need to get done before that day comes!

I wouldn't say that I am sneaky fast, I just get to a point where say screw it I am not leaving the shop until I get these decks cut out, or this glassing done, or whatever other big project I have been putting off. Ends up making for long weeknights and beat down days at work.

On a different note, I found out that a friend of mine down the road is a closet boat builder. He has built a CS25, Panga22 and Phantom 18, with the Phantom 18 being the one he just finished about 6 months ago. He asked if I wanted to go run the Phantom when he found out I was building one. We went out and you are not going to be disappointed by the performance of this boat. He had a 115 four stroke Yamaha on it and at WOT we running close to 55 MPH, and it was extremely quick to plane! And man you talk about stable...both he and I stood on one side (both of us being 200 lbs) and it barely even moved! Talk about motivation!!

Posted: **Wed May 11, 2016 8:18 am**

Here are a few photos of his Phantom, to give you a little motivation as well:

Posted: **Wed May 11, 2016 8:28 pm**

Dang, that is a beautiful boat!

Posted: **Wed May 11, 2016 8:36 pm**

That is sure enough a dang pretty Phantom

He has built a CS25, Panga22 and Phantom 18, with the Phantom 18 being the one he just finished about 6 months ago.

It's amazing how many people build these boats and we never hear from them. He's good

Posted: **Thu May 12, 2016 12:57 am**

LGF wrote:On the deck topic, is my deduction correct that the deck only gets affixed to the top of the bulkheads and shear cleats by means of epoxy glue? Or does it get glassed somewhere somehow?

I am not the designer, but since you question seems to have been overlooked.... I would venture that like most of these boats -- sole, seat tops, decks, gunnels, are typically bonded with epoxy *putty* to cleats on frames and/or hull panels, the cleats increasing the surface area x2 or more. I don't think there is any problem if one uses a fillet and glass in some areas (if you can). But there is also value in having that extra surface area of a simple cleat because cleats also make some bonds much easier. Point being, the designer has made decisions for particular areas, knowing the benefits of a particular method, and ensuring it is both plenty strong, adequately handling and distributing loads, and easily accomplished by amateur builders. All that said, I added some glass on my boat (a different design), on a few cleat to hull bonds, after hearing some issues of cleats coming detached. I probably did not need to, as I had full cleats, preshaped, and some builders use shorter partial cleats along the hull panel. Too few short cleats, that are too short, with big gaps between them, along a long hull panel bond, will have loads focused on those short bond surfaces. But often there is also fillet and glass on the top of the panel bond too. If the plans call for only cleats, and you use enough of them, without huge gaps between them (along the curve of the hull panel), then you can trust the designer, at this site. Which still leaves the option to add glass also, with the weight, as long as you understand the cost of that weight on the design.

This issue underscores the value of being able to ask in a forum like this. If you want designer response, just ask again, or start a new thread with that single question.

Posted: **Thu May 12, 2016 2:10 am**

Yep, sorry for missing your question, Henk. I am planning to glue the deck down with putty to the full length cleats. These cleats are on all vertical surfaces, not just the sheer. I will then glass the whole deck with 10oz woven and bring the glass onto the hull a bit. I will make that overlap short enough to be covered by the rub rail.

Posted: **Thu May 12, 2016 3:02 am**

@ ks8,

Thanx for the info, thought as much and actually seen some with cleats right round and all over the inside on the deck side (vertically speaking, as the bottoms are filleted and glassed to the sole). I do understand that I will add weight, but since I am not going to us it as a true flats boat, the draft, give or take an inch or two, won't be an issue.

@willg

Exactly what I had in mind, glue the deck onto the cleats, then install a raised gunnel, if you like, glue that onto the deck and then glass the entire deck, over the gunnels onto the shear with a small overlap on the shear side. Will also cover this overlap with the installation of the rub rail.

@Dustin gw

Thanx for the eye-candy, now I am stoked to get going again even if this Bronchitus wants me to stay in bed

Posted: **Thu May 12, 2016 8:59 am**

and oh yeah... that's a fine looking Phantom

As a curious question, I wonder how many bateau boats get built and launched and enjoyed, that are never posted to the forum, or the other way around? Maybe five percent post to the forums and galleries? Just curious. Forums are a thing unto themselves, true, but I sure enjoy watching the progress, learning more tricks, and seeing launch pictures.

Posted: **Thu May 12, 2016 4:46 pm**

ks8 wrote:and oh yeah... that's a fine looking Phantom

As a curious question, I wonder how many bateau boats get built and launched and enjoyed, that are never posted to the forum, or the other way around? Maybe five percent post to the forums and galleries? Just curious. Forums are a thing unto themselves, true, but I sure enjoy watching the progress, learning more tricks, and seeing launch pictures.

Karl, Jacques posted a couple of days ago that only about 5% of plan sales post on the forum.

Tom

Posted: **Thu May 12, 2016 5:08 pm**

Dustinwg wrote:?..On a different note, I found out that a friend of mine down the road is a closet boat builder. He has built a CS25, Panga22 and Phantom 18...

So the Phantom 18 would be the clear choice for any back bay fishing - what about the other two? Both the Panga 22 and CS25 would seem well suited to offshore activities - I was wondering about the difference between the two, particularly with respect to ride comfort and dryness in moderate swell conditions.

Thanks, Brian

Posted: **Fri May 13, 2016 3:07 pm**

TomW1 wrote: Karl, Jacques posted a couple of days ago that only about 5% of plan sales post on the forum.

Tom

Well that's one fortunate guess!

After all, nearly 83% of all statistics are made up in the moment they are stated...

Posted: **Fri May 13, 2016 3:56 pm**

Brian, I am not sure about the handling and dryness of the CS25 and the Panga, as I only went out on the Phantom, but from the looks of the two he built, I would say the CS25 is more of an offshore sportfishing center console, while the Panga is more of a simpler kind of inshore/offshore boat.

Also, he said that the CS25 took about 4-5 times the amount of time to get completed, and the Panga was the first boat he ever built!

Posted: **Sun May 22, 2016 11:43 pm**

Have made some progress lately. There are 3 coats of EMC Whisper Grey on the console and on the hull beneath the future gunnel. Turned out real nice. I made the inwale from 2 strips of 1/2" ply. I used Gel Magic for this. I really like that stuff! The sheer side of the inwale has grey tinted epoxy, which turns out to be nearly a match to the Whisper Grey. No one will ever see that I know, but I had to coat with epoxy so figured why not tint it.

Question for anybody: is there a brand/model of removable all around light pole and socket that is reliable and not prone to corrosion? I would prefer not to permanently mount a light. Thanks in advance.

Posted: **Mon May 23, 2016 3:17 am**

Willg, man hat looks good. Giving me a renewed vigor to start when I get my plans, in the meantime I'll just keep on building and sorting out stuff that I can without the plans.

As for your question, I'm not sure if this will help, but there is a supplier here in sunny SA called rutherfordmarine, think their site is www.rutherfordmarine.co.za that has a downloadable catalog and I have seen some removable "all-round" lights there. Perhaps it can assist in just identifying the make, not sure if will help, but check it out and see, you never know!

Posted: **Mon May 23, 2016 7:47 am**

Looks great Will!

I've never seen a removable plug in type light that was reliable or lasted very long in salt water.

Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

willg's PH18 - "Yepper" launched 6/11/17

willg's PH18 - "Yepper" launched 6/11/17

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