Wade's GV10

[tcason]

adding the exterior gunwales really "stiffen up" my Garvey 13 sides - I would add these and re-evaluate - before doing anything too "drastic".

[wadestep]

I've been doing some work, although not posting as regularly. here's some pictures:
I added some small strips along the stern face of the upright for the seat attatchments. I did this because they will be seeing a lot of the torque if someone sits on the front edge of the seat - a twisting moment on the seat.

I did this because I put triangular supports to further support the seat when its being sat on:

I then put cleats on the supports, as you can see in the top picture on the far side of the upright frame.

[wadestep]

I cut out the anchor locker hole, then thought that maybe the remaining plywood there was a little too small to support someone sitting on it, so I installed reinforcement plywood stripps (looking from front down in the anchor locker):

Then got the seats glued down:

[wadestep]

kinda messed up when reading the plans for the transom - that is why there is a 'pad' of 3/8" plywood where the motor will go. I used two 3/8" strip of 6" plywood to reinforce the transom. That's a deviation from the plans, which call for 1"x6" dimensional lumber. However, should still be at least as strong. My engineer wife says 1" nominal is 3/4" anyways, and so I have 3/4" of plywood instead.

still have some trimming to do.
Now getting the bottom stiffeners tack welded in:


And that's where I'm at so far!
wade

[peter-curacao]

Seats look strong, probably you can breed elephants on those

[wadestep]

Yeah, the seats may be a little overboard. However, I will be confident while bouncing through waves with 2 people on a seat. I'm hoping to do some cool stuff on this boat - multiple overnights camping, duck hunting, transporting in the bed of a truck, maybe eventually flipping it on its side on the transom of a larger boat. We'll see. Still figuring out which method to do for the foam flotation - mix and pour, or buy pre-made sheets and cutting to size.
Anyone actually bought pre-made sheets and glued them in place under the seats on one of these boats?
wade

[wegcagle]

Looking good Wade. You've been busy on her.

Will

[Evan_Gatehouse]

I have used extruded polystyrene under the seats. If you fit it tightly you don't need the seat extra supports...

You can just paint it or you can cover it with a layer of light cloth - 4 oz of so.

How big /type a motor are you planning to fit? The reason I spec a wood board across the transom and not plywood is all the fibers in a board work in the direction I want it to resist transom bending. Plywood has a lot of fibers going up/down in a transom board and they don't help with resisting bending.

Your plywood reinforced transom is _probably_ OK as built, but if you're going to fit a heavy 4 stroke 15 HP motor see if you can fit another layer of solid wood (depends if the outboard clamps open wide enough)

[wadestep]

Gotcha - I get what your saying about the direction of wood fibers.

I am planning on installing a 10 hp 4-stroke engine, but it's a heavy one - I think it's 108 lbs. It's a Mercury 9.9 Bigfoot longshaft with electric start and alternator. (I already have the motor - it is a kicker on another boat).
I'll check the outboard clamp openings and see if more thickness of wood will clear. Is is needed for the above motor?
Or - could I install a layer of plywood the same 6" height on the interior face (the forward face) of the transom - from the transom "knees" outboard to the sheer, and glass that in? I'd rather not, but that would also stop the bending, I think. I don't think I have full-width plywood left for another thickness all the way across the outside.
wade

(thanks for looking so closely)
PS.... I also have or am going to glass the exterior of everything including the transom inside and out.

[Evan_Gatehouse]

If you're going to glass the transom you can skip additional reinforcement.

Unless something cracks