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Wade's GV10

Posted: Mon May 27, 2013 8:37 pm
by wadestep
Started over this Memorial Day weekend on a GV10. I picked this boat for my 3rd build because 1) I already have a 9.9hp motor 2) I expect it will fit between the wheel wells of our Toyota Tundra 3) I functionally like the design - I don't expect it to be a beautiful boat, but it looks like it will maximize the potential of 95 lbs and 10 feet. It's important to me that Robin and I can lift it in/out of a truck bed.
My eventual hopes for it is to throw it in the truck and take off to some long, winding river. (ie Suwannee or St. Johns in FL, Satilla in S. Georgia, etc...) I'd like to bring enough gas, food and camping gear for 3-4 nights and run up/down a river for 100 miles or so. Fishing, camping, etc... I also live on a large canal system and on the Caloosahatchee River, so it should be frequently used for bumping around with a rum drink in the evenings.
As such, I modified the plans so that (hopefully) the rear and forward seats are the same level. This messes up the 4-sheet nesting, but luckily I have enough ply left over from the OB19 to make it happen. The goal here is to be able to lay a board or two between the seats and have enough room to lay down and sleep if required. We'll see...

On Sat, I measured and marked out the dimensions, then had my resident engineer double check everything.
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Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Mon May 27, 2013 8:43 pm
by wadestep
more measuring
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On Sun, I cut the wood, discovering that I am much better with a jig saw than a circular saw when cutting even gradual curves.
Sun afternoon, I spliced together one side of the hull sides and bottom.
Then Mon they were ready to flip over and tape the other side of the splice. I used fast epoxy for this, so by 3pm Mon I was ready to make it look like a boat. I used blocking to screw the panels together - both transoms and the frames between.
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Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Mon May 27, 2013 8:50 pm
by gstanfield
Nice little project, I like the idea of a small boat for exporing the rivers!

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Mon May 27, 2013 8:50 pm
by wadestep
The last picture there shows the current status. I was hoping to get it all stitched together and tack welded this weekend, but it's not to be. Anyways, this is a little different than building on a jig. The entire boat can easily get out of alignment at this point, with no strongback to keep it true. Also, I started by screwing the bow transom to the side panels, and that just didn't work well. So, I reverted back to using the zip-ties as per the plans. Also, the fiberglass splices in the bottom panels look like they will take a lot of force to bend to meet the bow transom. therefore, I wanted to give it another day or two for the epoxy to cure before stressing them that much.
Also, since the boat can easily become a rhomboid at this stage, I'm gong to follow the plans and after dry-stitching it together, I'll flip it and use the crossed-strings method to make sure it's square before tack-welding or glassing anything into place.
BTW - these plans are excellent, well written, and thourough. Thanks Evan.
wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Mon May 27, 2013 11:38 pm
by Spcmnspff
Haha wade, we're building the same boat!

http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=47571

You're going to be ahead of me - Which is perfect. This is my first. Ill be using you as a reference. :wink:

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Tue May 28, 2013 7:43 am
by Cracker Larry
BBV has struck again :P

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Tue May 28, 2013 8:27 am
by wadestep
Cracker Larry wrote:BBV has struck again
Yes sir! If it weren't for my crazy work schedule here in our 'season', it might have even been sooner - 7 months without building was a long time. SWMBO might tell you different. :roll:
Spcmnspff wrote:You're going to be ahead of me - Which is perfect. This is my first. Ill be using you as a reference.
Welcome to the disease! I just replied on your thread before seeing this one. Glad to see another GV10 being built. When building the OB19 I followed closely in Steven's footsteps, at least until after the deck was laid down. It does help, feel free to ask any questions you might have. I picked it for very similar reasons you did. My plan is to use this boat as a real knockaround boat - I'm going to be glassing the exterior, graphite on the bottom under paint for heat/UV purposes, and workboat finish inside. That's the plan anyways. This one should be a piece of cake compared to the O19. The fact that you can flip it back and forth is much easier also.
wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Tue May 28, 2013 10:13 am
by tech_support
Cracker Larry wrote:BBV has struck again :P
After a breakout it lays dormant for a while, but you still have it :) Wade had a very quick relapse after the OB19

nice to see another one going together :!:

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Tue May 28, 2013 7:39 pm
by wegcagle
Great to see you back at it Wade! Lookin good. I do like the GV10. It's a cool little boat, and perfect for the south GA rivers.

Will

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Tue May 28, 2013 9:30 pm
by Aripeka Angler
Looking good Wade :) A skiff hauled in a pickup truck bed sounds great. How much will she weigh?
Edit...I see it now, 95 lbs. That is great 8)

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Wed May 29, 2013 9:42 am
by wadestep
After letting those bow splices cure for >24 hours, got it all spliced together last night. Took a little wiggling, and I used some cut dowels under the zip-ties to get the panels to lay right, but it all fit perfectly!
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Now to screw down some straight 2x4s to keep the running surface straight, flip, straighten, and tack weld. Maybe tomorrow, definatly by Thurs.
wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Thu May 30, 2013 1:34 pm
by David Sours
If it's not too late...a word of caution. Check your sheer (hard to do with the boat upside down). Mine had a slight "hump" about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way back from the bow transom. This was evident when the side panels were against the seat frames. One way to get rid of the hump was to pull the bow transom up and back which gave the boat more flare and a very nice, sweeping sheer. The problem was that now there was about a 1 inch gap between the top of the seat frames and the side panels on both sides. I will fix that by adding a triangle of plywood the the frame, no biggie. If you've glued it and have the hump you can 1) live with it or 2) trim the sheer.
OR, all of this was because I screwed up somewhere and you don't have my problem :D

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Fri May 31, 2013 10:18 am
by wadestep
Thanks for the heads-up. Unfortunatly, I tack-welded teh panels last night. I havent' noticed the hump, but I'm not always the most observant, either. Here's some picts as it sits now.
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And my supervisor at his post:
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I'll look for the sheer hump when I get home again, and also take a picture or two from the side when I get it out of the garage.

I'm straying from the order of the plans here for the first time. As you can see, I've flipped the boat over, measured the diaganols which came out perfect the first time (within 1/8"). The plans now state to fillet and tape the seams. However, the zip-ties are still in. So, I instead tack-welded all the seams that were reasonable, and put small strips of fiberglass tape across wehre I thought necessary (more near the bow where the ply is bending the most). I figure this will be enough reinforcement to be able to flip the boat over, remove the zip-ties, and then grind and tape the outside first. I will later tape the inside seams. That way I can completely remove all the zip ties before they get glued/taped in.
wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Fri May 31, 2013 12:58 pm
by Cracker Larry
Looks great Wade. Almost an instant boat :D I bought the plans for the GV10 a couple of years ago and haven't got around to it yet, but it's still on the list. Should be a very functional little boat.

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 8:03 am
by kjackson
That does look good. I need a boat to fit inside my Tundra, and was thinking of shrinking a GF 12 to a GF 10, but this might be better.

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 8:08 pm
by wadestep
kjackson wrote:That does look good. I need a boat to fit inside my Tundra, and was thinking of shrinking a GF 12 to a GF 10, but this might be better.
Gimme 2 months and I'll be the guinea pig and post a picture of it in the bed...

Today I grinded the outside edges to a tape-able radius, then went over them with the 1/4-sheet sander to kinda smooth out the grinding unevenness. Then I taped up the seams with Duct-tape on the inside, put the boat upside-down, and went to town:
First, I taped the chine, bow and stern transoms. On the keel and stern transom I used left-over 12 oz biax tape. The plans called for 2x 6oz cloth tape on the keel instead. The 12-oz plus the cloth covering you're about to read about should be an overkill substitution. Then I used the called-for one layer of tape on the chines. While still wet-on-wet, I covered the hull bottom and both bow and stern transoms with 6oz woven cloth. The cloth width fit just right off the roll on the bottom - It just touches the tape on the chine on both sides. We were able to roll it right off the roll without cutting the width.

I am making lots of fast progress, compared to the OB19. It's amazing how much faster we get a job such as this one done with 2.5 years of practice, and on such a smaller boat. This boat is almost too easy to build.... :wink: I do admit I got a lot of help in the taping and cloth laminating process by my lovely wife, Robin. She is now a pro at this, too. Sometimes 2 people working together are more than twice as fast as 1 person, bigger projects with wet-on-wet are one of the examples.
Using slow epoxy, we got the keel, chines, bow transom, stern transom, and cloth laid down all wet-on-wet. The taping and cloth laminating today took the 2 of us about 3 hours.
It's also really nice to be able to flip this boat again and again - makes many things much easier. The OB19 I only wanted to flip once!
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Tommorrow to cut the excess glass off, and consider sanding and glassing the sides. Then time for some fairing, graphite.
wade

wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 7:31 am
by Cracker Larry
That's a nice day's work, Wade 8) It does get easier with practice, doesn't it ?

Now if you'd just send Robin up to visit me for a couple of days, we could get this GF18 glass knocked right out :idea:

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 12:37 pm
by wadestep
Glassing that GF18 is another undertaking altogether... :wink:
Went out this am, did just a little sanding, and layed down the first coat of fairing. It's still chemically bonding from the glassing yesterday afternoon, so I didn't go crazy with the sanding. The less sanding the better. After this step I will loos the benefit of the chemical bond. Work will be getting in the way this coming week.

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Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 6:02 pm
by peter-curacao
2 pages and you have a boat 8O 8O 8O Looking good Wade! 8)

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 9:42 am
by wadestep
Thanks Peter. I figure we have abotu 20-22 hours into it so far.
Late Sun, while the fairing was still drying on the bottom, I laminated cloth on the sides.
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I'm going to get a little fairing going there and then probably flip and work on the inside.
The thing I'm having a difficult time deciding is how much to glass. The outside hull I was sure I wanted to glass. However, How much to do on the inside? On this boat every little extra 10 lbs matters - may make the difference between planing or not when I get me, wife, dog, and a heavy 4-stroke 10hp motor on it. Plus I plan on lifting this in/out of the water sometimes. still not sure, but leaning towards glassing the entire inside, and crossing my fingers that the boat isn't a pig when it's all said and done. I've also added 1.5" to the sheer...
Only using 6oz cloth, however. It is lightweight and doesn't soak up that much epoxy.
What to do?????
wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 9:54 am
by Cracker Larry
I'd glass it all, Wade. You are going to use it hard in the south FL sunshine. I doubt it would add 10 pounds.

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 11:25 am
by AtTheBrink
I doubt it would add 5 pounds, I would glass it just to be sure no problems develope later. The boat looks great, you are really cruising on this one!

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 11:58 am
by Spcmnspff
I have a noob question for you, Wade, since we are building the same boat. Did you fillet anything on the outside? I know the plans say to fillet only where there are gaps. I took this to mean there would be at least a light filleting on the outside seams.

The boat is looking great. Sure pays to have experience! haha. I am fortunate to have you pave my way. =)

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 5:41 pm
by wadestep
Cracker Larry wrote:I'd glass it all, Wade.
AtTheBrink wrote:I would glass it just to be sure no problems develope later
Alright, I think I was just looking for some affirmation that glassing all of a boat this size isn't stupid. I want to glass it all and would probably be afraid of water intrusion otherwise. 6 oz cloth here we go!
Spcmnspff wrote:I have a noob question for you, Wade, since we are building the same boat. Did you fillet anything on the outside? I know the plans say to fillet only where there are gaps. I took this to mean there would be at least a light filleting on the outside seams.
Yes, basically you don't want any fiberglass bridging over air. ANY gap needs to have fillet material filling it. And actually most of the seams should have some little gap - gaps are good, just fill them before taping.
The way I did it, I tack-welded the seams together, removed the zip-ties, and ground down the entire length of the outside of the seams to a radius that the glass will accept. For the 6oz cloth tape, a radius like a pencil is minimum, the radius of your fingers a good max. From the inside I then duct-taped the seams, making sure to press the tape in tight to minimize the inside radius at this point. Then from the outside it's easy to squeeze a fillet into the seams (using a pastry bag), with the duct-tape preventing it from dripping through. All you are trying to do here is get enough fillet to give you generally a rounded edge/radius for the tape. Then lay down the tape.

PS - don't forget to wet-out both the seam before the fillet, and the wood edges before the tape. You don't want to dry wood pulling epoxy out of your fillet material, or away from your glass.
Hope this is helpful, I seemed to ramble on.
wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 12:52 pm
by wadestep
Yesterday I had 3-4 hours to use, so I got to work doing the initial sanding of the hull fairing compound. This part of the job is tedious. However, as compared to the last boat, this time around I'm using a long drywall blade instead of a squeege, and I now understand that fairing's purpose is just that - to get the boat fair. So, don't bother to build any fairing compound over the highs - you're just going to sand if off anyhow, dummy! Also, I went moderatly aggressive at teh edges of the tape seams where the stitching had it standing up proud. so, I've applied 1 coat of fairing to the bottom, sanded it, and applied a 2nd coat to the bottom (only where it needed it) and a 1st coat to the sides:
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I'm hoping that the sides will only need 1 coat, but that's probably wishful thinking. I'm not looking for show-finish, btu we'll see.
I also had big ideas to break out the longboard and go to town. however, I'm probably just going to use the RO sander and call it good. I've found that works 90% as fair as the longboard, and 10x faster, as long as it's generally fair underneath.
wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 2:51 pm
by wadestep
I got to sanding the fairing compound today. Again, I'd put 2 coats of fairing on the bottom, and 1 coat on the sides. I used the RO sander on it with 40 grit paper. After about 1.5-2 hours of sanding and using Cracker Larry's trick of wetting it down to get a feel for the smoothness, here's what I got:
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Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 2:56 pm
by wadestep
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There are still minor bulges around the forward tape seams on the hull, but You have to look for them. For my goals and what this boat will be used for, I think I'll call it good. I'm still mulling over the issue, we'll see if I can sleep with the decision. I'm kinda torn between keeping it a 'quick and dirty' build of a boat just to bang around, and my OCD that all boats should be beautiful. we'll see. It's 91 degrees today, and my upcoming week is full at work, so the quick and dirty idea might pull through.
wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 6:43 pm
by Cracker Larry
so the quick and dirty idea might pull through.
Nah, it aint either. It's a tiny boat, only take a day or 2 more to make it sweet :D

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 8:40 pm
by wadestep
BTW- that 2nd to last picture where you can see the entire boat from the side looks like the hull as a hook in it. I just went out and checked with a straight-edge and it's a camera illusion. I was rather worried there for a minute.
wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 9:25 am
by wegcagle
Great work Wade 8) You're flying on this build

I saw that "hook" and was about to mention it before I read your last post. You certainly don't want a hook...ask me how I know. I won't make that mistake again.

I'm thinking that after seeing the finish on the OB19, and you having an engineer wife; the quick and dirty will turn into a piece of art pretty quickly :wink:

Will

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 8:15 am
by wadestep
Building has been a little slow around here over the past 2 weekends. I've been fairly busy at work, and actually got to do a bunch of boating last weekend. Anyways, we haven't done the final fairing that I got peer-pressured into :wink: yet. However, the two of us had some time yesterday afternoon, so we flipped the boat right-side up and went to town on the taping/glassing.
Early in the AM I ground/sanded the inside of the boat smooth. There were epoxy drips and stuff from taping the outside. Then we put down some neat epoxy with a brush into the seams, and a roller on the larger areas. Then we filleted all seams, pre-wet out the tape (all of which was pre-cut and labled), and laid the tape down. Then immediately we put the 6oz cloth down and wet it out in place. The way this boat is set up with the frames, there are 3 distinct 'compartments'. due to this, all the above steps were carried out sequentially in each compartment, before moving to the next. This allowed the whole deal to be done wet-on-wet. Today I'm going to fair while it's still chemically active. Basically I'm going to go from bare wood to 1 layer of fairing without even touching the boat with sandpaper. Major time saver!
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Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 8:31 am
by wadestep
Couple of things I've noticed
1) I no longer bother to create a nice concave, round fillet. I basically just put the bead of epoxy down with a icing bag, and then lay down the wet-out tape. this eliminates a step I've been doing - using a tongue depressor or something to smooth out the fillet. By the time you've pressed the tape into the seam, the fillet is the perfect shape anyways.
2) the 6 oz, 4" tape I'm using (from Bateau) has one edge with a very prominent thread seam. This makes working wet-on-wet imperfect. The second layer doesn't make perfect contact - gets a little line of air where the seam from the first is. This only happens on one edge of the tape and not the other, where the edge seam is different. The manufacturer really should be able to improve on this. In order to have a perfect lamination, you'd have to stop, let it dry, and sand off the seam. I'm going to sand it off after all the layers are cured, and just fill with epoxy with milled fiberglass thickener.
3) getting the 6oz woven cloth to lay down perfectly is a pain. I've got it about figured out for flat and convex surfaces, but on concave surfaces still end up with a few small ripples. I'l just have to fair them out in the future. Others have had the same problem, and I also encountered it on the OB19. The best I've come up with is to pre-wet out the surface, then lay down the edge of the cloth and squeegee it into place while keeping the other edge up off the surface. Don't use any extra epoxy here, the wet surface is enough to stick the cloth, yet allows you to squeegee out the ripples. Then just keep progressing down towards the other end, squeegeeing the cloth on a little at a time. Then, when it's all in place and flat, then come back and wet it out.
Hope this description helps someone else.
wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 9:15 am
by topwater
Wade have you tried cutting the sewn edge off before using the tape :?: I have some 9 oz
woven cloth tape that came with the kit that I haven't used yet, but I was thinking when I do
I will cut the edges off first. Build looks good 8)

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 9:24 am
by wadestep
I haven't tried doing that. It would probably fix the problem, but it might be a mess also - lots of unraveling strings? I'll keep an eye out and see whether you find it to be worth it or not. I do know that the cut edge of the 6-oz fabric tends to fray/unravel and create a mess of things at times. sticky strings all over your squeegee, gloves, legs, ... :lol: The tape may act differently, though?
wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 7:45 pm
by Spcmnspff
That's good info, Wade. It would definitely have helped had I not done the inside first. Your method starting with your filleting and taping the outside first, seems to have been optimally efficient - something that obviously comes with experience. For me starting with the inside seams first made more sense. I had some hard joints that were better accessed from the inside, where there was still a gap, and sanded down from the outside to where I could get more putty in from the outside. Also taking more time on the fillets with a radius tool was necessary for me as I had to push the putty into the gap. You had already done this from the outside.

So I'm happy with the outcome although I didn't get full wet on wet as I took too long with the filleting. I did get all the tape down on top of wet fillets but by the time I wet it out all the way, the fillet had already set up. The fillet was enough to hold the tape but the majority of it wasn't wet until going over it with epoxy. Also my work is very sloppy being my fist boat. I imagine yours is very clean. There will be much sanding ...

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 10:43 am
by wadestep
Got the first coat of fairing done on the inside. It is harder to get it to spread just so on the inside, but I'm fairly happy with the application. My plan is to do one coat of fairing, sand it down, and then stop and attatch everything else. I don't want to be taping stuff in over fairing compound, so I'll be sanding some of it off anyways to get to glass to bond to. However, just seems easier so get 80% of the fairing done now before more stuff gets in the way. This is also how others advised me to go on the last build, and I was happy with the order of operations.
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In the 2nd picture, you can also see where I've been getting ready to install the bow eye. That's 1/2" ply cut to size, edges ground to a radius, then glued up. I'll be putting whatever else fiberglass scrap over it as I go, at least 18-24oz thick in total, maybe some left over biax tape if I can find any.
I'm re-thinking the stiffness of the hull, and kinda worried about it, based on some comments Evan has made. I'm going to re-think whether I can add any reinforcement, I'd really like the hull sides not to flex, and I'm going to put a 10HP motor on it. The boat already has 6oz cloth on each side, which is in addition to the bare-bones plans. However, Evan has been advising up to 12 oz biax. At this point, I'm not going to add any sheathing, so I'm thinking about other ways of reinforcing the hull. I still need this boat to be light enough to get into the truck, which will include 2 people carying it up to 100 yards or so.
In order to do this much thinking, I'll need a homebrew (or 2). :wink:
wade

PS - I've also added 1.5" to the sheer. Not sure if I stated that in a previous post.

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 11:03 am
by tcason
How did you determine location of bow eye?

I am looking to put mine higher on Garvey 13.

Are you going to put "drain" holes under the frames to allow water to rear?

Looks awesome!

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 1:00 pm
by wadestep
I put the bow eye lower than normal because I hope this boat will be tow-able at a slow speed behind a larger boat. When towing like that, an upward pull is preferable. Therefore, I put it low. Hopefully it will be fully out of the water at rest. I'll be able to still reach it while inside the boat, which was my only other main concern. I'll probably put another cleat higher up for docking. Maybe inside, maybe outside the hull??
Yes, I'm definatly going to put in limber holes for water drainage. Still figuring out what size, and how they will work with the seat/foam flotation. I'll probably use a small hole saw and then sand them to the final shape. Kicking around laying a half-round of PVC pipe under the foam flotation and glassing that in water-tight.
wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 8:02 am
by topwater
Wade what about running some half round pvc pipe along each side to stiffen them up.
Like they do on the P 21. Check out Joes or hope2floats build you can see them along the sides of the cockpit.

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 8:45 am
by wadestep
Thanks for the idea - I'll check them out.

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 8:46 am
by tcason
adding the exterior gunwales really "stiffen up" my Garvey 13 sides - I would add these and re-evaluate - before doing anything too "drastic".

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 5:56 pm
by wadestep
I've been doing some work, although not posting as regularly. here's some pictures:
I added some small strips along the stern face of the upright for the seat attatchments. I did this because they will be seeing a lot of the torque if someone sits on the front edge of the seat - a twisting moment on the seat.
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I did this because I put triangular supports to further support the seat when its being sat on:
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I then put cleats on the supports, as you can see in the top picture on the far side of the upright frame.

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 6:00 pm
by wadestep
I cut out the anchor locker hole, then thought that maybe the remaining plywood there was a little too small to support someone sitting on it, so I installed reinforcement plywood stripps (looking from front down in the anchor locker):
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Then got the seats glued down:
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Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 6:08 pm
by wadestep
kinda messed up when reading the plans for the transom - that is why there is a 'pad' of 3/8" plywood where the motor will go. I used two 3/8" strip of 6" plywood to reinforce the transom. That's a deviation from the plans, which call for 1"x6" dimensional lumber. However, should still be at least as strong. My engineer wife says 1" nominal is 3/4" anyways, and so I have 3/4" of plywood instead.
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still have some trimming to do.
Now getting the bottom stiffeners tack welded in:
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And that's where I'm at so far!
wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 8:13 pm
by peter-curacao
Seats look strong, probably you can breed elephants on those 8) 8)

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 9:22 pm
by wadestep
Yeah, the seats may be a little overboard. However, I will be confident while bouncing through waves with 2 people on a seat. I'm hoping to do some cool stuff on this boat - multiple overnights camping, duck hunting, transporting in the bed of a truck, maybe eventually flipping it on its side on the transom of a larger boat. We'll see. Still figuring out which method to do for the foam flotation - mix and pour, or buy pre-made sheets and cutting to size.
Anyone actually bought pre-made sheets and glued them in place under the seats on one of these boats?
wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 6:16 am
by wegcagle
Looking good Wade. You've been busy on her. 8)

Will

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 2:07 am
by Evan_Gatehouse
I have used extruded polystyrene under the seats. If you fit it tightly you don't need the seat extra supports...

You can just paint it or you can cover it with a layer of light cloth - 4 oz of so.

How big /type a motor are you planning to fit? The reason I spec a wood board across the transom and not plywood is all the fibers in a board work in the direction I want it to resist transom bending. Plywood has a lot of fibers going up/down in a transom board and they don't help with resisting bending.

Your plywood reinforced transom is _probably_ OK as built, but if you're going to fit a heavy 4 stroke 15 HP motor see if you can fit another layer of solid wood (depends if the outboard clamps open wide enough)

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 5:48 pm
by wadestep
Gotcha - I get what your saying about the direction of wood fibers.

I am planning on installing a 10 hp 4-stroke engine, but it's a heavy one - I think it's 108 lbs. It's a Mercury 9.9 Bigfoot longshaft with electric start and alternator. (I already have the motor - it is a kicker on another boat).
I'll check the outboard clamp openings and see if more thickness of wood will clear. Is is needed for the above motor?
Or - could I install a layer of plywood the same 6" height on the interior face (the forward face) of the transom - from the transom "knees" outboard to the sheer, and glass that in? I'd rather not, but that would also stop the bending, I think. I don't think I have full-width plywood left for another thickness all the way across the outside.
wade

(thanks for looking so closely)
PS.... I also have or am going to glass the exterior of everything including the transom inside and out.

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 11:58 pm
by Evan_Gatehouse
If you're going to glass the transom you can skip additional reinforcement.

Unless something cracks :)

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 6:05 pm
by wadestep
I'm going to go ponder the situation, but I'll definatly be glassing it. I've been also reading all about plywood stiffness, and it seems that glassing it would really add to the strength. I may install a transom thickener on the interior face of the transom as well. I'm going to ponder it a little more this weekend.

Not much work got done this past weekend due to some Continuing Education I had to take on Sat, and then Muzzleloading season on Sun. I drew a permit to hunt Picayune Strand - East of Naples, FL. The only problem is that everything was underwater! Hard to hunt when the road on the high ground looks like this:
This is Robin standing smack in the middle of the road:
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We only saw one doe, one fawn. And a small buck someone else was skinning. Not too much luck. Oh well. I've got a jeep that sits about 6-7" higher than normal and even it was almost getting water in the doors in some of the potholes in the road. The exhaust was sounding like an inboard boat engine - underwater!
wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 9:38 am
by Cracker Larry
That's how my driveway has looked for most of the summer :lol:

I like hunting flooded swamps, it concentrates the game on the high spots. Also concentrates the snakes! Much easier to drag a deer or hog through water too.

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 6:11 pm
by wadestep
got a little more work done this weekend. The inside is mostly sanded and faired - maybe just one more round of fairing to go. I'm going to kiwi-grip the hull and slightly up the sides anyways, so the tape seams on the bottom I can cover with one round of quick-fair. Then flipped it over, did a little more prep-sanding, and spread the graphite+epoxy down. Sure does leave a shiny surface!
Image

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 3:55 pm
by wadestep
Well, looks like I've let my own thread die out here. Actually, between hunting season, holidays, and being swamped with seasonal 'snowbirds' (tourists) at work, not a ton has gotten done on the GV10 in 4-6 months. It hasn't been at a complete standstill, but very little progress.
However, the northerners are going home bit by bit, and so I'm getting more free time. Today I ground/sanded the bulkhead where it meets the back of the seats. That is there for kicking protection and to give me something to pour foam inside.
Image

Image

As the boat sits there, it weighs 130#. Modifications vs the plans which say it should only weigh 95 lbs:
1) raised the sheer by 1.5-2"
2) everything is glassed, inside and out
3) reinforced for bow eye
4) a little extra wood/glass around the transom due to a heavy 4-stroke motor

Things that will still increase it's weight:
a) cleats
b) a little more glass on those seat bulkheads
c) poured in foam
d) 2 coats of epoxy, a little primer, and paint above the waterline.

I'm hoping to get all that done for about 10#. Unfortunately, I'm out of 6oz woven, and will be using 10oz woven for the little glassing left.

Honestly, I've now got enough experience after building the OB19 to be pretty sure I'm coming in better than 50/50% epoxy to fiberglass by weight, and my fillets are fairly small. I used MUCH less fairing compound on this boat than when I was a neophyte. So I don't think I could shave 5lbs off this boat even if I had been the most epoxy-stingy person on the planet. It must be the extra sheer height, seat bracing, and fiberglass.
wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sun May 11, 2014 12:20 pm
by wadestep
update:
getting a single coat of neat epoxy:
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and then about 2 coats of epoxy-based primer on the areas I'm going to paint. The rest I'm going to use kiwi-grip with varying textures.
Image
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wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sun May 11, 2014 12:41 pm
by peter-curacao
That looks great, it really shows this isn't your first 8) No sole in this boat or removable floor panels?

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Sun May 11, 2014 3:35 pm
by wadestep
very likely one removable floor panel in the center. That should be enough to keep feet dry. Emphasis right now on not getting any heavier, since I'm just going to have it hanging from a piling davit, and also hope to be loading it in/out of truck bed occasionally.
wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 9:52 am
by tcason
update??

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 10:56 am
by wadestep
I'll get on it soon, with pictures.

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 2:19 pm
by wadestep
Well, since the last update, I kiwi-gripped the insides. The sole is the normal (for me) Kiwigrip pattern:
Image
but I decited to do the seats also. After some experimentation, I used a roller with a fuzzy nap, and came up with a cool looking kiwigrip pattern:
Image
It actually looks like a wood-grain type texture, and I used it on the seat tops, so as to be a little more forgiving on the behind!

I also poured 2-part foam under the seats, but only under the back half of the seats. Then I cut it smooth and glassed it for abrasion resistance right at the frame/seat support. My calculations show this to be enough to provide positive buoyancy, but it hasn't been fully tested yet.

Finally, I threw it into the canal, then hung the motor on. It's a 9.9 mercury pro-kicker, so it's heavy and the original push-prop wouldn't plane the boat at all - I was hitting the redline before planning speed. So, I purchased a 9.25 dia x 10" pich prop and tested it out..... drumroll please.....
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Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 2:27 pm
by wadestep
Specs:
Weight (est)
140# fully glassed, foamed, cleated
110# motor at 9.9hp (year 2007)
16# fuel
18# battery
then add:
200# person, speed max is 21mph! comfortable planing at 12-15 mph
320# of people speed is comfortable 12-15 mph, good planing
400# of people/dog, very marginal planning at WOT.

I wish I had a lighter, non pro-kicker motor (different gearing), performance would be better. Even better if it was a 2-stroke. But, the engine was bought for other reasons, and is what I have. Out of play money to try to change that for now.

I'll try to get an overall shot sooner or later.
wade

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 9:53 am
by crackedconch
Congratulations Wade!!!

Mike

Re: Wade's GV10

Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 9:13 am
by ks8
Excellent! Congrats! 8)