GF16 Hull Painted!

redfishla · Post by **redfishla** » Sun Apr 04, 2004 12:00 pm

I applied the last coat of paint last night. It's dry to the touch, so I'm leaving it outside today to cure. The spray rail screw holes were faired poorly, so I sanded the primer off to do some more sanding. They'll be a different color than the hull anyway (hunter green), so it's ok to go out of sequence. I used Benjamin Moore M22 Industrial enamel. Don't let the shadows fool you -- there are lots of imperfections; however, it doesn't bother me. I'll flip in a few days to work on the mess of the inside -- more sanding

A link to the photo is below:

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage ... m=42&pos=1

Troutlet · Post by **Troutlet** » Sun Apr 04, 2004 12:17 pm

Looks good! I bet it feels nice knowing you are that far along. You'll probably zip through the inside.

Got an ETA on launch day??

redfishla · Post by **redfishla** » Sun Apr 04, 2004 12:57 pm

I hope to finish the inside by this coming weekend (April 11). If the paint on the inside is cured, I'll shoot for Tuesday, April 13. That, however, is probably overly optimistic.

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Sun Apr 04, 2004 9:03 pm

Bryan,

Very, very nice! I really like that paint job. I will have to look into the Benjamin Moore M22 series of paint for my next boat. Keep going, my man, you're almost there!

Grant

billyboat · Post by **billyboat** » Sun Apr 04, 2004 11:14 pm

redfishla,

Did you prime or just put the M22 over the epoxy? I have been having problems with the M22 not hardening on my epoxy. It stays kind of gummy.

redfishla · Post by **redfishla** » Sun Apr 04, 2004 11:45 pm

I used the Benjamin Moore Deep Penetrating primer. The first coat took forever to dry (2 or 3 days). The second was much quicker. I get the impression that Alkyd paints take awhile to cure over epoxy. The M22 paint was barely tacky 2 hours after the paint job, and felt completely dry after 24 hours. I'd try the BM primer, THEN paint. This is some of the fastest drying paint I've used. Let me know if you have other questions.

Bryan

DrBones · Post by **DrBones** » Tue Apr 06, 2004 6:38 am

I used the same primer going on Redfish's tip. I've got the second coat on now and the stuff goes on pretty thick. It covers up most of my 'sins' I must say. It's dry to touch after about 2 hours, but I agree it needs over 24 to harden completely. I'm going to let my second coat dry 48 hours before I put another coat on.

As to the M22 - I used that on the interior of my boat and the center console. Another builder had complained about orange peel, but for me it did a tremendous job. It's a high gloss enamel and is self levelling. I just rolled it on using Sureline foam rollers and it came out nice. I painted that directly onto the epoxy soaked 4oz glass cloth (i.e. no primer) I wrapped the console in (of course let it cure first!). Took forever to harden though, but it did dry. I painted my console in December, so it was fairly cold in those days, that could have something to do with it.

Here's a close up pic of the paint job on the console:

According to the BM guy, the M22 high gloss enamel by BM is some of the hardest stuff out there.

Mango · Post by **Mango** » Tue Apr 06, 2004 11:00 am

Bryan,

Congratulations, my man! I renig on ever letting you see Claudette- you'll laugh under your breath! But I do get a vicarious thrill out of seeing all the stuff we've talked about working out for you.

The end is near- and the beginning of the fun! Keep up the good work.

BTW, what did you decide on inside paint +/- nonskid?

redfishla · Post by **redfishla** » Tue Apr 06, 2004 11:08 am

Hi Mango. After a great tip from someone on this board, I'm going to use a black webbing spray from Krylon over the same white M22 paint. As far as rubberized non-skid, it looks like the tinting will be a problem. I'm going to go ahead and use the gritty non-skid compound on the floor. I WILL NOT do a thorough sanding job -- just enough to knock down the edges. Hopefully, the webbing will disguise some of my laziness. Last night, I decided to fiberglass the casting deck with 4 oz cloth. It's going to have anchors, 20 lb redfish, and all kinds of stuff dropped on it, so I think I'll need the extra strength.

Mango · Post by **Mango** » Tue Apr 06, 2004 4:30 pm

You'll get the effect you want by not fairng or finish-sanding the interior. I've never once regretted going with the textured look. And yes, I think the cloth on the casting deck is a good idea, especially if you didn't install an anchor locker. I'm thrilled with mine, because I just drop the nasty, muddy anchor right into it, toss in a bucket of water to rinse it off, and let it drain dry. It keeps me from ever having to put the anchor on a finished surface.

Good luck with the interior.

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