I am finished building my FL14. I took her to the lake this Sunday and she worked great. Rowed great, & was easily propelled with a 34lb thrust trolling motor. She also just skimmed the surface, very shallow draft. It is a very good feeling, building and launching your own boat!
I posted a few pics, check them out. I didn't get any lake pics though since I was by myself.
http://gallery.bateau2.com/thumbnails.php?album=lastupby&uid=
I did have a question. What are the best oarlocks to use? I am using perko open horn ones right now. My oars float around a lot in the locks. Just curious what are the best style to use. Am I using the right style for this boat? I am new to boats (and rowing.) I am using the 7' oars from clarkcraft.
Thanks to all, for all of the great support from this site!
Jacques, keep some OB17 plans dusted off and ready to ship, That will be my next project!
James Trahan
FL-14
A Missouri FL14 is completed!!
A Missouri FL14 is completed!!
James
FL-14
FL-14
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Good work. Yeah, more pics (on the water), please.
Oar locks are a personal choice item. I have tried ones with open yokes, ones that have pins through the oars, and the full round ring kind. Of all the types, I prefer the full round ones. That type is held onto the oar by the oar sleave (and the blade of the oar) but can move freely between those two positions. This type is better at keeping the oar in position (can't jump out of the yoke) and also allows the oar to be pulled inward when necessary without liftning it out of the lock. For best results, the full round ring type do require the use of a tight fitting oar sleave. You could use real leather and oar buttons for the traditional look or use the newer plastic sleaves (warm water to soften, lube with liquid detergent and slide them on).
You can see my oars on the GV11 plans page pictures (the green hull).
JerryF
GV11+
Oar locks are a personal choice item. I have tried ones with open yokes, ones that have pins through the oars, and the full round ring kind. Of all the types, I prefer the full round ones. That type is held onto the oar by the oar sleave (and the blade of the oar) but can move freely between those two positions. This type is better at keeping the oar in position (can't jump out of the yoke) and also allows the oar to be pulled inward when necessary without liftning it out of the lock. For best results, the full round ring type do require the use of a tight fitting oar sleave. You could use real leather and oar buttons for the traditional look or use the newer plastic sleaves (warm water to soften, lube with liquid detergent and slide them on).
You can see my oars on the GV11 plans page pictures (the green hull).
JerryF
GV11+
The oars work well and are out of the way when not needed. Those are 94" oars (and oar sleaves) from Glen-L. The oar lock hardware is from West Marine.
The small GV really does best when powered by an outboard but rowing it is possible and not all that much effort. I like having the oars as backup propulsion or just to move a short distance, like from one side of the dock to the other.
JerryF
GV11+
The small GV really does best when powered by an outboard but rowing it is possible and not all that much effort. I like having the oars as backup propulsion or just to move a short distance, like from one side of the dock to the other.
JerryF
GV11+
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