Galstron/Carlson CV -23

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
dragracerdave
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Galstron/Carlson CV -23

Post by dragracerdave »

I am redoing the stringers and floor on my Glastron, and want to make sure I order the proper stuff..by reading some of the how to's I think I need the epoxy putty to adhere the stringers to the fiberglass hull prior to completely glassing in the plywood? I know when I took it apart it had an epoxy like substance that was hard as a rock between these areas. Also, if I read correctly, they say to glass it up when the epoxy is still wet? I was thinking of about putting all the stringers in , and then doing the glass, but want to make sure I am understanding the sequence correctly. I have torn out all of the floor and stringer structure and am ready to start the replacement process. Do you recommend buying all the putty, glass, resin as a kit? Do you save money by doing so. I have a wood working friend who can get me marine grade plywood locally wholesale, so I am just looking to source all of the proper resins,glass etc. I do not want to cut corners and us auto parts stuff, that is why I am here. Thanks in advance for your help

dragracerdave
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Re: Galstron/Carlson CV -23

Post by dragracerdave »

anybody out there??/ :help:

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Re: Galstron/Carlson CV -23

Post by pee wee »

dragracerdave wrote: I need the epoxy putty to adhere the stringers to the fiberglass hull prior to completely glassing in the plywood?
Yes
dragracerdave wrote:they say to glass it up when the epoxy is still wet?
That is the preferred way, easier and faster, but not required.

dragracerdave wrote:Do you recommend buying all the putty, glass, resin as a kit?
I'm not aware of a kit for doing stringer replacement, every boat would need a different amount of materials.

dragracerdave wrote:Do you save money by doing so.
You will save money on shipping to get everything in one order.
Hank

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FitzFisher
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Re: Galstron/Carlson CV -23

Post by FitzFisher »

Welcome Dave. can you post some pix? That always helps to get people's interest up and get them chiming on on your project. YOu may as well get the 6 gallon epoxy kit, since you will be using the resin for all your glue ups and laminations. You will need a couple of different types of cloth and some fillers at the very least to get started.

Good luck with your project.
TG
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dragracerdave
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Re: Galstron/Carlson CV -23

Post by dragracerdave »

Thanks for the input...I have tried posting pics, or pasting a link to my build thread on a jetboat forum, but no luck...any tips appreciated on how to post here

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Re: Galstron/Carlson CV -23

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dragracerdave
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Re: Galstron/Carlson CV -23

Post by dragracerdave »

page 3, and 5 have some good pics of my floor and templates..thanks in advance ...I have built a lot of projects over the last 40 years, and just want to make sure I repair this properly, as it will stay in the family long after I am gone...I am going to leave it to my grandson, who is my main helper on this project....

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FitzFisher
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Re: Galstron/Carlson CV -23

Post by FitzFisher »

Dave,
One thing I noticed looking at your pix is that you have split the stringers where the bulkheads cross. I think it is very important for the stringers to be one piece for their length. you can piece in the bulkheads and frames but the stringers should be uninterrupted. One the pix, try using the IMG brackets. It will help a lot if people don't have to go to your other buiild to look for pix. There's a sticky note on how to post pix as well. Check it out,
TG
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Re: Galstron/Carlson CV -23

Post by Cracker Larry »

Those stringers should run full length.

Image

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dragracerdave
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Re: Galstron/Carlson CV -23

Post by dragracerdave »

thanks for the tips...I was just replicating what I removed, that is how it was built...I have tried the img box, but will try it again..thanks so would it be o.k. to slot the bulkhead pieces to slide over a one piece stringer?...and also, forward of the front bulkhead, the height steps down quite a bit in the cuddy area, should that be just notched out of a full length?? Obviously, making them in full length would require splices, which I have read how to construct them, it just did not come from the factory that way, but I would like it better than original, as I found a lot of things I would do differently than the way they did it 37 years ago...thanks for the help...

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