TJ's V10

[Aripeka Angler]

A think few dings add character, she looks mighty nice to me.
A little touch up on the bare spots is all you need.
You have certainly used the boat a bunch according to the map of your adventures.
By the way, I have never sailed much but I have surely enjoyed reading your book...

[terrulian]

Very kind of you to say so, AA.

I've gotten a lot of use out of the V10. Unlike most of you guys who knew what you were building a boat for, I just wanted to build a boat and wasn't sure I'd like rowing. But I've found my way into a lot of obscure spots right in my own back yard that you really can't get to any other way. It's also great exercise and a very quiet and serene way to spend a day.

[gonandkarl]

Hi Tony,
Lovely pictures of your boat are always a treat for me. The same way as you said I was not sure I like rowing so it is with me and sailing. But now that I am in the final stages of my sail boat build I look forward to sailing in it.
If you do not trust the 5200 glue all that much why do you not try epoxy and a bit of wood flour for glueing the bronce strip forward of the skeg and also use it on the 1/8 inch side of the strip to sort of make the strip flush with the bottom. My expierience is that epoxy wood flour glue between metal and wood is excellent but I only tried it with galvanized steel.
Greetings from Karl

[terrulian]

Thanks, Karl,
Yes, I thought of epoxy/wood flour but I personally have had little success gluing metal with epoxy but have very little experience with it. The bond between glass and metal here has to be particularly strong because of the abrasion that occurs when you drag a 125-pound boat across gravel or rocks. Obviously I try to avoid doing that but it happens. I'm adding some glass along the centerline for now and we'll see how that works. Also, I'd have to get some more bronze and that would cost a little, whereas the rest of the stuff is sitting in my shop for free.

[Jaysen]

JB Weld is epoxy for metal to metal so it can be done. I think the surface prep is key. With JB you use 60-80 to scuff the surface of the metal. I think that's all you'd need to do. I'd still think 5200 as CL seemed to look at that stuff kind of like God saying "let it be stuck together!" and it was stuck.

I'll tell you what, I'll try to glue up some scrap alum to a piece of pine before we leave this weekend. Then when we are back next weekend I'll see if I can pull it apart. That might be the test we need.

[terrulian]

I have tried JB weld in a high stress situation and it broke immediately but it was definitely a challenging application.

I'll look forward to your test with the 5200 on pine...but why not stick it to epoxy which is what you would really be doing?

[Jaysen]

Sorry for the confusion. I will be using marin epoxy from BBC not 5200. I'm too cheap for that stuff when I've got marin just begging me to build another boat...

[terrulian]

OK, either way I'd love to hear the result. I'd had reasonable experience with stainless or bronze to fiberglass but as I remember, uneven results bonding metals using epoxy, likely the result of operator error.

[Jaysen]

OK, either way I'd love to hear the result. I'd had reasonable experience with stainless or bronze to fiberglass but as I remember, uneven results bonding metals using epoxy, likely the result of operator error.

Well.. I know more than one jeep that is more JB Weld than metal at this point. I know it will work but it does require the right JB product and the right prep. It's possible that you had the wrong JB product. I'd not question your prep

[terrulian]

Oh, you can question it.
But it was probably more that I was asking the JB Weld to do something that nothing on earth would have done. It was a last resort for a fix at sea where of course we had limited access to supplies.