Doug's GV10
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Re: Doug's GV10
I've been waiting for one of the more experienced builders to answer (and you should too) but why use wood flour for fairing? Mix the epoxy with microballoons and it will sand easier. And yes, from the looks of it I would want it a little thicker. You want to start with something a little thicker than ketchup although people describe it in different ways. It should be too thick to run. Most builders use a plastic spreader at this stage, or a drywall knife. But there's nothing wrong with what you've done...there just may be a way that decreases your effort down the road.
Tony
Re: Doug's GV10
And to think I used to pride myself on reading comprehension. I read a couple of the excellent explanations by Cracker Larry and Joel about fairing effectively with little waste and misinterpreted the term blended filler as being wood flour and epoxy rather than micro balloons and silica. To top it off, I thought the West filleting filler was just wood flour, but of course it contains a fair amount of silica. As it turns out, it did fill the weave to some degree and of course was a real challenge to sand with an RO and 40 grit. Stupidity corrected, heading off the island in search of micro balloons tomorrow, then back on track.
Completed: FL12 GV10
Next up: P19!
Doug
Next up: P19!
Doug
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Re: Doug's GV10
Do a search on slurry. The slurry layer, if I understand right, isn't the actual proper fairing, quite yet anyway. It is more like a preliminary filling of the deeper grooves of the weave with a runnier blend. If it is a wood flour slurry, it still will not stand that proud on the highest glass fibers to require a whole lot of sanding, since it is filling the deeper grooves of the weave by running into them. Of course it isn't crazy watery either, but, *a slurry*. It is a tougher blend, I think maybe, purposely, for that first stage. The rest of the fairing that follows is with the microballoon mix thickened so that it doesn't run, but isn't too dry either (else it won't stick or spread well, but would sort of flake around). The Quick fair gets the consistency right, but costs more. I hope I got that at least mostly right. Slurry will be found quite a few times with a search. It isn't mandatory to do the slurry step. You could just start fairing with the thickened (but not too dry) fairing blend right away. But once again, I think the slurry step helps give a little tougher weave fill for that first step.
Re: Doug's GV10
Completed: FL12 GV10
Next up: P19!
Doug
Next up: P19!
Doug
- peter-curacao
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Re: Doug's GV10
That doesn't look bad at all, pretty good imho
Re: Doug's GV10
No TJ, the West 407 and silica I'm using seems to suspend in the epoxy no matter how much I add or how long I mix. Looks good when first spread, then just seems to settle into the epoxy. It sagged just a tiny bit in a couple places, but no big deal there. I wonder if I'm troweling too much, that's the only thing I can think might be happening. You can't see in the picture, but the bow area looks very uneven, yet the solids didn't sink.
Completed: FL12 GV10
Next up: P19!
Doug
Next up: P19!
Doug
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Re: Doug's GV10
Odd...I've used that stuff quite a bit and it doesn't usually dry shiny like that. Maybe it's just the photo. Does it seem to sand easy? 407 should be the right thing to use, and should not be hard to sand. If not, I'd contact West and see what they say. If it cures and is easy to sand then my non-expert guess is you're OK. Joel or CL or ks8 would know more. But regardless, that's a very smooth job of troweling!!
Tony
Re: Doug's GV10
I don't know TJ. The first slurry coat I put on using 407 wasn't so shiny. Mixed it just a tad thicker than ketchup. This coat was somewhere between mayo and peanut butter and went on shiny and is drying shiny. Only other thing that comes to mind is that I'm working in pretty cold temps, I wonder if that would have an effect?
Completed: FL12 GV10
Next up: P19!
Doug
Next up: P19!
Doug
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Re: Doug's GV10
Could be. I don't live in a cold climate so I'm sure other builders who do will have better information.
Tony
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