Page 1 of 1

Doug's GV10

Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 3:20 pm
by gtcoupe
WooHoo! Plywood arrived today, another GV10 in the works. Already have a good Yamaha 9.9 2 stroke that should work perfect on it. Due to having moved recently, all my tools are 60 miles away, but in the next few days I will be cutting and gluing. Can't wait to get started. Previously built a fl12 that performed beyond all expectations.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 9:11 am
by ks8
8)

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 5:57 pm
by gtcoupe
Got a little work done, sure is difficult to accomplish anything during the holidays! Still have a little adjusting to do, but I'm pretty happy with the way things are coming together.
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 6:46 pm
by terrulian
That's mighty clean work. It's so different from mine that you wouldn't think that they are both in the same category of objects :oops: .

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2014 2:37 pm
by gtcoupe
Tony, this is my second rodeo, you learn as you go. Your first effort looks so much better than mine. I built an FL12 a few years ago, and my only goal was to finish it as quickly as possible. That was one fugly boat, but it worked great. Now I'm retired and have time to *try* to do it right. Thanks to CL and a BUNCH of other guys on the forum for all the great tips and pictures.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2014 3:41 pm
by terrulian
It's true, there's a lot of great examples and info on the forum, not to mention smart guys who are generous with their help, without which I hate to contemplate what my boat would look like. I like to think that in the end the result will be respectable because I will have learned out how to keep my improprieties well hidden.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 8:52 pm
by gtcoupe
I'm envious of you guys in the south. This is what we have to do up north to get epoxy to cure. Works pretty good though...

Image

Image

There's a 1500 watt heater under all that plastic somewhere. :)

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 5:06 pm
by ks8
Memories.... NY, building in a tent within a tent, heating with work lights. Freezing and snow outside -- mid 50's or 60F under the lights. Enough for fast hardener. :wink: :) When I used the heater, it gave me bad dreams involving fire extinguishes. Prop the plastic away from it if you can. :)

Image1211

The cathedral gallery is here. :)

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 4:14 pm
by gtcoupe
KS8, that "cathedral" is impressive. The way I'm doing it works, but is less than ideal. I'm careful to keep the heater a few feet from the tarps and wood, but it's a pain in the patootie keeping the plastic off my fresh epoxy. Just have to tape the transoms, and then I'll post a pic or two. Current overnight temps in the 20's but I'm able to get the temp under the plastic up to 70 or so, pretty ideal for my medium hardener.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 8:11 pm
by gtcoupe
I think it's officially a "boat" (once the epoxy cures). All seams taped inside & out.

Image

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 11:32 pm
by ks8
Yay! :D Always a good milestone building a boat. :)

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 5:33 pm
by gtcoupe
Definitely not the worlds best taping and sanding job, but its solid and done. Besides, a layer of 12 oz biax is going to cover the sole and bottom and hopefully hide my sins!

Image

Image

Seat tops will be fastened after biax is applied to the sole and faired.

Image
Seat tops will get fastened after all the biax is down.

This is my boat building buddy, Silver the Beauceron.

Image

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 6:13 pm
by ks8
Looks fine in those pictures. :)

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 4:21 pm
by gtcoupe
Got the bottom glassed with 12 oz biax this morning. 3 hours start to finish from bare plywood to coated, glassed and recoated. I think it turned out fairly well considering it's the first time I've done this.

Image

Image

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:54 pm
by gtcoupe
So I have a question. Not having dealt with 12 oz biax in the past, it looks like the crosshatch is not as defined as it is in pictures posted by others. Am I done sanding or should I go a little deeper?

Image

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 5:38 pm
by peter-curacao
Done, clean it and put the fairing compound on.
Boat looks very nice 8)

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 7:14 pm
by gtcoupe
Thanks Peter, but it wont deserve to be in the same ocean with that CS25 you built! Beautiful boat!

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 7:28 pm
by Corvidae
If you haven't already, then paint the inside of that forward compartment before putting the lid on it. Having just twisted myself into a pretzel to reach the inside of mine, I wish I had. The bottom of the seats is another annoying spot to reach after they're mounted.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 7:53 pm
by gtcoupe
Thanks Corvidae, seat tops are about the last thing that will be done. Rigid foam panels will be glued in under the seat tops before they are installed permanently.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 1:06 pm
by gtcoupe
Made a little progress. The sole is fiberglassed with 12oz biax, the rubrails are on, and I applied the first coat of fairing slurry to one side of the bottom. Didn't seem to do much in the way of filling the weave. Is that to be expected, or should I be using more wood flour in the slurry?

Image

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 5:51 pm
by terrulian
I've been waiting for one of the more experienced builders to answer (and you should too) but why use wood flour for fairing? Mix the epoxy with microballoons and it will sand easier. And yes, from the looks of it I would want it a little thicker. You want to start with something a little thicker than ketchup although people describe it in different ways. It should be too thick to run. Most builders use a plastic spreader at this stage, or a drywall knife. But there's nothing wrong with what you've done...there just may be a way that decreases your effort down the road.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 7:15 pm
by gtcoupe
And to think I used to pride myself on reading comprehension. I read a couple of the excellent explanations by Cracker Larry and Joel about fairing effectively with little waste and misinterpreted the term blended filler as being wood flour and epoxy rather than micro balloons and silica. To top it off, I thought the West filleting filler was just wood flour, but of course it contains a fair amount of silica. As it turns out, it did fill the weave to some degree and of course was a real challenge to sand with an RO and 40 grit. Stupidity corrected, heading off the island in search of micro balloons tomorrow, then back on track.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 9:16 pm
by ks8
Do a search on slurry. The slurry layer, if I understand right, isn't the actual proper fairing, quite yet anyway. It is more like a preliminary filling of the deeper grooves of the weave with a runnier blend. If it is a wood flour slurry, it still will not stand that proud on the highest glass fibers to require a whole lot of sanding, since it is filling the deeper grooves of the weave by running into them. Of course it isn't crazy watery either, but, *a slurry*. It is a tougher blend, I think maybe, purposely, for that first stage. The rest of the fairing that follows is with the microballoon mix thickened so that it doesn't run, but isn't too dry either (else it won't stick or spread well, but would sort of flake around). The Quick fair gets the consistency right, but costs more. I hope I got that at least mostly right. :) Slurry will be found quite a few times with a search. It isn't mandatory to do the slurry step. You could just start fairing with the thickened (but not too dry) fairing blend right away. But once again, I think the slurry step helps give a little tougher weave fill for that first step. :)

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 4:53 pm
by gtcoupe
Pretty sure I absolutely suck at fairing. Goes with the fact that fairing absolutely sucks. :wink:

Image

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 5:07 pm
by peter-curacao
That doesn't look bad at all, pretty good imho 8)

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 5:54 pm
by terrulian
Very good indeed. Is that a coat of clear epoxy over the fairing goop?

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 9:00 pm
by gtcoupe
No TJ, the West 407 and silica I'm using seems to suspend in the epoxy no matter how much I add or how long I mix. Looks good when first spread, then just seems to settle into the epoxy. It sagged just a tiny bit in a couple places, but no big deal there. I wonder if I'm troweling too much, that's the only thing I can think might be happening. You can't see in the picture, but the bow area looks very uneven, yet the solids didn't sink. :doh:

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 10:11 pm
by terrulian
Odd...I've used that stuff quite a bit and it doesn't usually dry shiny like that. Maybe it's just the photo. Does it seem to sand easy? 407 should be the right thing to use, and should not be hard to sand. If not, I'd contact West and see what they say. If it cures and is easy to sand then my non-expert guess is you're OK. Joel or CL or ks8 would know more. But regardless, that's a very smooth job of troweling!!

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 11:29 pm
by gtcoupe
I don't know TJ. The first slurry coat I put on using 407 wasn't so shiny. Mixed it just a tad thicker than ketchup. This coat was somewhere between mayo and peanut butter and went on shiny and is drying shiny. Only other thing that comes to mind is that I'm working in pretty cold temps, I wonder if that would have an effect? :?

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 11:58 pm
by terrulian
Could be. I don't live in a cold climate so I'm sure other builders who do will have better information.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 2:37 am
by ks8
I used the same stuff. 407. I *could* just tell you no worries. It will be fine. Nothing to it. Very easy. A trained baby seal could do it. But you seem to be asking for a little more detail. If you want to have a more involved explanation of what you may be experiencing, with some understanding to help adjust to more realistic expectations, then you can reasonably expect the response to be more involved. :lol: If that is what you would like, just say so. I have it already typed up, well, as well as I could at 2:30 am. :wink: I could post it here, or by email, which ever you prefer.

It is easy, but manually mixing one's own batches does have some variation in results, batch by batch. That is to be expected. Temperature does have an effect. Closing the gap in variation between batches needs a consistent technique, again, not difficult. If you are one to notice the slightest details, then you will notice them, while other builders might not, and can't understand what you are talking about. Not sure where the fault lies in that, or if there even is one.

Just say if you'd like to hear how I've come to understand the process with 407, and the varied results, and when to see that the results, though not being a fantasy sort of perfect, are still plenty perfect. I can also explain the technique that worked for me. I don't know if it will work for you, but understanding sure does help to reshape better expectations of what are plenty good results. And what I see of yours is sure in the ball park, even though the shinier batches will be tougher to sand due to the higher epoxy content. :)

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 8:32 am
by terrulian
ks8: I was thinking perhaps a high ratio of epoxy to powder, too, but he said that he'd tried different proportions. Anyway, I think it may be enlightening if you post your tome on the forum. No one has to read it if they don't want to. I've always just adjusted the 407/epoxy ratios just like we do with wood flour, i.e., sometimes ketchup, sometimes peanut butter, depending on what you're up to. Never had anything go belly up on me with that stuff. I've also used West System with microballoons from Tap, and I think I've also used 407 with Marinepoxy from BBC without difficulty.
Again, I don't experience the great variations in temperature that many of the builders do and no doubt that's why my epoxy life is easy :) .

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 9:57 am
by gtcoupe
I appreciate your replies fellas. Gonna go out and do some sanding in about an hour, but I think I know where things went a little south. The short version is I over worked that second coat, using too much pressure and thereby squeezing the 407 out of the epoxy, and then spreading the resulting even thicker mix of epoxy and 407 on the transom. I expect to have a pretty easy to sand transom and a near impossible to sand bottom. No worries, just going to go through a few more 40 grit RO discs rather than using the long board.

KS8, you are probably right that I may have unrealistic expectations. I've been lulled into a false sense of my own high skills because Evan designed such an easy to build boat! Its all his fault! Actually, the real reason for my obsession with knowing more is my desire to build a PG25C. I would like to have a belief that I actually know what I'm doing before tackling a project that large and expensive. So feel free to post that information you were describing. I'm especially interested as I know you were building under less than ideal conditions in "the cathedral".

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 12:07 pm
by gtcoupe
KS8, TJ and Peter, you guys ROCK! Just spent a little while sanding, mostly with a longboard. Touched up a few spots (less than 5 minutes) with the RO. Sanded super easy! I don't know what the gloss was all about, but looks normal now. Obviously have some more fairing to do, but my drywall and bondo jobs always looked like this after a pass or two. Here are a few after sanding pics.

Image

A close up:

Image

Plenty of work to do:

Image

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 1:56 pm
by tcason
wow that looks great

save some divits for the primer to hide! :lol:

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 2:42 pm
by terrulian
Yes, all looks good to me. Keep us posted.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 3:27 pm
by ks8
I'm going to try to re-write it more organized and cleaner, and then post it on my own thread. It will have in the text of it:

Fairing with 407

Anyone who does a search on > KS8 Fairing with 407 < will find it.

The rest of the week just got busy. Very glad to hear you are on your way. :D

Quick hint (as it applies to stitch and glue methods):

In a cool work place. A *thick depth* applied layer has more potential to heat and retain some of its heat as the reaction begins. As it heats, its consistency gets thinner, and it becomes more likely to run or slide. So in a cool work area, if you try to lay on too thick a depth of a layer on an incline or vertical, then, even if the consistency is very good when first applied, it still may run or slide when it heats. A thinner depth layer is less likely to do this as severely, because it doesn't retain as much of its self-generated heat, and if it does do it, it will be much more likely to be in an acceptable range that will be fixed with another cycle or two of *apply/cure/sand/clean prep*.

Thick depth layers can have this quirk to change their consistency from retained reaction heat, after a good consistency has already been applied and is on the hull, beginning to heat toward the cure. It won't matter on a near perfect level horizontal, unless something messes with the earth's gravity field in your location ... :help: (Check with Craig to see if he is going to open his hatch) :lol:

Worst case that increases the effect the most:
Assuming one gets a good consistency before applying it to the hull.....
Cool epoxy, loaded up with 407 in the cool, laid on thick, on an incline or vertical, applied to hull in a warm work place.

Why is this worst?
Cool epoxy is more difficult to fully *load up* with a filler. It may seem to be a good loaded consistency, but as soon as the epoxy binder heats from reaction energy, the whole blend will thin in its consistency. Bringing a cool bowl of blend into a hot workplace and hull is the worst case of consistency thinning because of the natural heat buildup.

In a hot tent or garage, I used slow hardener if I could, at work area temp, in thinner depth layers, to minimize the delta (the change in temp and consistency during the reaction). Sometimes I used chilled hardener and mixed in the AC, if it was 100F or more in the work area, to get more working time, and I accepted a bit of runny funk was possible on inclines, because it was more difficult to fully *load* the blend with 407, and the blend's delta was more significant once laid on the boat surface.

(I even used FAST in the hot tent, for small vertical areas, with work area temp epoxy, working VERY quickly, with thin depth layers. With inclines or verticals, the smallest possible delta in blend temperature on the boat means less surprises. :wink: )

Best case where nothing goes funky at all:
Assuming the blend is loaded up to a good consistency in the bowl...
Work place 75F-80F, epoxy same, mixed on site, loaded up on site, applied in thin depth layers on any incline or vertical, and thicker depth if it is near perfectly level horizontal.

That scenario pretty much does what one reads on the instructions and application notes. But how realistic is that for most of us????

Working even in the cool can cause a higher delta on an incline surface, if applied in a thick depth, causing run possibilities, because the thicker application can retain more reaction heat, and get thinner in consistency before it *kicks* into permanent position and shape.

Expectations? You get it now. :)

The perfect fairing job with 407 is (drum roll):
When it is completed, it doesn't fall off the boat, and the surface is now sufficiently fair to the builder's requirements. That's it. Perfect. Period. The process to get there is another subject and the *perfect batch* has its own definition too. Don't confuse the two. If someone wants to argue *perfect* with you, I leave that option open to you.

One perfect batch can never get the job done. There will be multiple batches in cycles of *sand/ clean-prep/ mix/ apply/ cure*. Each batch may have slight runs, but because of possible funk delta stuff in the uncontrolled workplace environment, minor runs and ridges are well within reasonable expectation, dealt with easily with the RO or Long Board, and therefore also.... *perfect*... utterly sufficient and good to get the job done, within reasonable expectations. Anything more perfect than that, has less to do with boat building, and more to do with people building, or OCD. :|

Anyone who can fair the boat in one layer, so smooth and run and ridge free that it is not necessary to sand it at all, such a one is strangely gifted. It is not normal. And such had better use that power for good. It would not be wise to fall into the habit of looking down on us mere mortals. :wink: :lol: But if you are out there somewhere, I am happy for you. Amazing and unnatural ability. :)

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 6:03 pm
by Cracker Larry
Whew :!: KS finally got his words back :lol:

That looks great from here for a first coat. By the time you're finished you will be an expert.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 7:18 pm
by gtcoupe
Thanks guys. You've given me my mojo back!

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 10:13 am
by peter-curacao
Cracker Larry wrote:Whew :!: KS finally got his words back :lol:
Haha :lol: would take me half a day to write that all down :lol:

Told you nothing wrong with your fairing :wink:
Don't forget the high build primer is gonna take away a lot of small imperfections also.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 12:02 pm
by ks8
peter-curacao wrote:Haha :lol: would take me half a day to write that all down :lol: .
Baloney... then it would have taken you twenty years to build your boat. :lol:

I'm never typing with more than one finger at a time. :lol:

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 6:05 pm
by gtcoupe
First round of quickfair. I see why guys get hooked on this stuff. We'll see how I did once I can sand it.

Image

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 8:15 pm
by gtcoupe
Wax off, wax on. Second go around with the quickfair, filling all the little divots. This could go on forever. Or at least a couple more times.


Image

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 6:40 pm
by gtcoupe
1st coat of primer. Sure hope this smooths out, looks like heck right after tipping. :help:

Image

Blurry pic!

Image

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 10:28 pm
by gtcoupe
2nd coat of primer, reduced a little and applied a little thicker. Looks 1000% better. Still work to do, but getting there!

Image

Using cheap Rustoleum marine primer to be followed by their marine topcoat. The budget is panting. :lol:

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 10:50 am
by Corvidae
The Rustoleum topcoat isn't that bad really. It takes forever to cure in our humidity (about 3 days when I stupidly applied a coat just before a rain), however it's nice and solid once it gets set. The grip additive seems to be a bit tricky to get right though. I had to throw a few coats on top of it to tone it down.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 1:55 pm
by Noles309
You can add hardener to it. Makes it dry faster, much harder and glossier.

http://www.amazon.com/Valspar-4625-Enam ... t+hardener

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 2:40 pm
by gtcoupe
Thanks Noles, I think I'll give that a try. Read elsewhere that it's a good idea.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 5:05 pm
by gtcoupe
Found some Japan dryer, test it out on a couple little spots that needed more primer. We'll see...

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 4:13 pm
by gtcoupe
After reading a few other guys' stories here, I had to back up a bit and add some spray rails. Not so much fun shaving off a narrow band of primer to glue them down, but I'm happy with how they turned out. Got a little bit of reverse chine of a sort, I'll run it like this and can always shave them down if I don't like it. Broke one side trying to force the curve at the bow, thank God for my little Rockwell multi tool! Ended up cutting back and making short extensions for both sides on the front, still have to epoxy the extensions down, but I'm happy with the result.

Image

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2015 2:25 pm
by gtcoupe
Given my obvious lack of skill it seemed pointless to continue fairing, so I threw on 3 coats of Rustoleum topside after another coat of their marine primer. My photographic skills are better than my fairing skills, it looks worse in the flesh. :roll: Oh well, it IS a work boat. If anyone decides to give the Rustoleum marine paint a try, you HAVE to thin it (I used mineral spirits) and add a dryer of some kind (few drops of Japan dryer in my case). I should have thinned it more, but I think the brush marks will sand and buff out. Gloss seems pretty decent for really cheap paint.

Image

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2015 8:42 pm
by ks8
8)

Got a tentative splash date?

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2015 2:31 am
by gtcoupe
Not really, still have to finish the inside, and I've got a week or two in Mexico coming up. Hoping to at least finish the inside paint before leaving so it can fully cure while I'm gone. Really expect to splash it in March sometime.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 2:14 pm
by gtcoupe
Well, she's basically done. Needs at least one more coat of paint on the inside, but that can wait, since the crappy hardware store porch paint I used takes FOREVER to cure out. Just gonna let it harden up and then splash it second week of March. Definitely came out more to the work boat side of things, and I'm good with that due to the beating it's going to take.

Image

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 3:16 pm
by terrulian
You got this done in two months?
Unbelievably cool. Great work.
Not gonna be there before summer given my work ethic.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 5:25 pm
by gtcoupe
Working quickly to a low standard of fairness is no big trick, but thanks for your comments throughout Tony. I just downloaded your book to read on the beach in Mexico. Scanned the prologue and can't wait to get into it! Thanks for writing it amigo!

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 5:54 pm
by terrulian
Those standards don't look low to me. I'm actually interested in how the cheap paint works. I'm using something in between that and a two-part LPU for the same reason: I know my boat will look good for at best one day. Then it'll get banged up. So anyway, if you have time after using the boat a bit, I'd be most grateful to hear a report on the paint.
Thanks for getting the book, hope you find a few chuckles.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 4:20 pm
by gtcoupe
First off, Tony's book is GREAT! Really enjoyed reading it on the beach in Mexico.
Secondly, in the eyes of the great State of Washington, we are now man and boat!

Image

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 5:09 pm
by ks8
Congratulations! 8) :D

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 5:37 pm
by terrulian
Really great news. Congrats. Someday, I'll be there.
Thanks for the kind words on the book. Send us some action shots when you get on the water! :D

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 9:05 am
by jacquesmm
It looks nice, very clean job.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 1:00 am
by gtcoupe
Splashed yesterday 3/14/15. Posted a report under finished boats. Couldn't be happier with the performance. Here's a short video clip:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhSG_jo ... e=youtu.be

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Mon Mar 16, 2015 5:56 am
by ks8
Congratulations! Nice video 8) :D

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 12:25 pm
by terrulian
Cool. Looks very stable. I fear I won't get the same kind of performance using just my oars.
Thanks for posting.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 1:22 pm
by gtcoupe
We had a little windstorm here (Puget Sound) while I was in Mexico. 60+ mph winds and I'd left the GV10 tied to the bulkhead. Not one of my better ideas, but it's pretty unheard of to get storms here prior to Labor Day. Apparently a neighbors anchor failed and sent his 20' Bayliner into the GV10 with enough force to break my mooring line and do a little damage.

I'm planning to just cut out the damaged area and patch it with some leftover plywood with glue and tape over the resultant seam, unless you guys have a better idea. Here are a couple pics of the damage:

Image

Image

Both sides of the bow were hit, probably by logs. One side is cracked through, the other side only cracked on the inside layer of ply. I'll probably squirt a little epoxy in and cover with a piece of tape. This kind of abuse is why I didn't finish to a high standard!

Image

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 3:00 pm
by terrulian
My condolences. :(
I'll let the experts weigh in on the repairs.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 3:29 pm
by jacquesmm
Sorry about that.
How about a nice clean cut, a patch that fits in the cut and a large butt block on the inside?

For the bow, if the plywood is cracked: butt block from inside.

The repair can look reasonably clean and the extra 5 lbs will not affect the performance.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 3:57 pm
by gtcoupe
Is there a reason a butt block would be preferred over staggered layers of tape like is done on the hull panels during the initial building?

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 4:12 pm
by jacquesmm
Butt blocks are faster, easier, less sanding and it would not look bad.

You could fiberglass:
- clean cut
- clamp a panel outside with wax paper or some release material
- build up with staggered layers of glass.

Before glassing, I would rebuild that rubrail to give a nice camber to the side panel.

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 4:58 pm
by gtcoupe
Thanks Jacques I appreciate the input!

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 4:58 pm
by gtcoupe
Thanks Jacques I appreciate the input!

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 9:57 pm
by gtcoupe
Time for an update. Repaired the damage, thanks to Jacques for the tip on doing the rubrail first. While I was at it I thought a little 2 part foam under the seats would be a good idea, along with a piece of 1/4" fir to protect it and a little 6 oz glass to keep the fir from checking. Also added a small keel glassed with 9oz tape. Plan to add a strip of metal to the keel to protect it dragging on the beach, if anyone has ideas I'd sure like to hear them. Next step is to sand the entire hull and repaint. Note to self, stick to cheap marine paint, the housepaint on the inside is flaking off big time. The bottom looks like hell because it's been through it. Not one scratch in the resin however, I expected much worse.

Panel repair
Image

Foamed and boxed seat
Image

Litte keel
Imagele keel

Paint damage on bow
Image

Re: Doug's GV10

Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 10:50 am
by terrulian
Looks solid. Please post as you progress. Who knows which one of us will have to go through something like this?