There is somewhere at boatbuildercentral.com, an MSDS for Marinepoxy but I am certain that it is not flammable.
The danger is with acetone that you probably have around the shop.
For the cure times, see this:
http://www.bateau2.com/howto/cure_times.php
86 Mirage rebuild
Re: 86 Mirage rebuild
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
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- Cracker Larry
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Re: 86 Mirage rebuild
Epoxy is not flammable at all, but like Jacques said, watch out for acetone, alcohol, mineral spirits and lacquer thinner around the wood stove.
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
"Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made." -Robert N. Rose
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Re: 86 Mirage rebuild
After doing some searches to no avail, I thought I would post and ask for your all experience on urethane covering epoxy (with one layer of 17oz with 8oz Matt on top of deck) on top of meranti 1088. I will be using the marinepoxy. Does it turn out clear enough to justify the 1088? How does it hold up to wear and tear? I was also going to add some nonskid to one of the top epoxy coats. Done my fair share of teak and other wood on decks, but never plywood. And maybe someone has a suggestion for a type of urethane over the marinepoxy?
- Walkers Run
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Re: 86 Mirage rebuild
I used the EMC clear coat over Marine epoxy on my mahogany toe rail with very good results. No glass on mine though.
- Cracker Larry
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Re: 86 Mirage rebuild
The EMC clear coat sold here seems to be excellent. We'll have to wait and see how it holds up in the long run, but it sure is purty when it goes on
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
"Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made." -Robert N. Rose
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Re: 86 Mirage rebuild
A quick update and a couple of questions:
The transom rebuild is complete. Although i need to install all the hardware still. A couple questions on that below. I Used the maring epoxy from Bateau and it is real nice to work with. Can't say enough on the support from Bateau, including shipping speed. I cut and laminated the stringers last weekend. I was surprised at the shipping speed. I live in the opposite corner of the US (washington state) and it still arrived within a week.
Floor panels are cut to fit, obviously not installed yet .
I will post some pics later while not on my lunch break at work.
Two quick questions:
- On a planing hull, do you recommend using a mechanical fastener on the floor as well as gluing or will gluing hold by itself? I plan on wrapping the plywood floor with glass (and epoxy obviously ) If the mechanical fastener (i.e. screw) is needed, I imagine you drill a bigger hole, fill it with thickened epoxy, then drill the right size and install the screw. Do I have that correct?
- For through transom fasteners:
-- Should i use a brass or stainless sleeve/tube between the fastener and the thickened epoxy? I'm not sure about how brittle the thickened epoxy becomes over time. My only concern is the thickened epoxy may crack over time if there is a side load from the fastener...thus allowing water into the transom. Or maybe the sleeve is not necessary.
-- Do you recommend a type of sealant for the gimbal housing to the transom plate? There is a foam gasket, but i'm wondering if i should put some sealant around the mating surfaces as a precaution. What type of sealant would you use?
Thanks guys!
The transom rebuild is complete. Although i need to install all the hardware still. A couple questions on that below. I Used the maring epoxy from Bateau and it is real nice to work with. Can't say enough on the support from Bateau, including shipping speed. I cut and laminated the stringers last weekend. I was surprised at the shipping speed. I live in the opposite corner of the US (washington state) and it still arrived within a week.
Floor panels are cut to fit, obviously not installed yet .
I will post some pics later while not on my lunch break at work.
Two quick questions:
- On a planing hull, do you recommend using a mechanical fastener on the floor as well as gluing or will gluing hold by itself? I plan on wrapping the plywood floor with glass (and epoxy obviously ) If the mechanical fastener (i.e. screw) is needed, I imagine you drill a bigger hole, fill it with thickened epoxy, then drill the right size and install the screw. Do I have that correct?
- For through transom fasteners:
-- Should i use a brass or stainless sleeve/tube between the fastener and the thickened epoxy? I'm not sure about how brittle the thickened epoxy becomes over time. My only concern is the thickened epoxy may crack over time if there is a side load from the fastener...thus allowing water into the transom. Or maybe the sleeve is not necessary.
-- Do you recommend a type of sealant for the gimbal housing to the transom plate? There is a foam gasket, but i'm wondering if i should put some sealant around the mating surfaces as a precaution. What type of sealant would you use?
Thanks guys!
Re: 86 Mirage rebuild
I don't know . . . We try not to use any fasteners. Wherever there is epoxy, the bond is going to be stronger than fasteners.1986Mirage wrote: Two quick questions:
- On a planing hull, do you recommend using a mechanical fastener on the floor as well as gluing or will gluing hold by itself? I plan on wrapping the plywood floor with glass (and epoxy obviously ) If the mechanical fastener (i.e. screw) is needed, I imagine you drill a bigger hole, fill it with thickened epoxy, then drill the right size and install the screw. Do I have that correct?
If you look at this page:
http://www.bateau2.com/howto/repair.php
you'll see how we weld the sole to the framing and sides: no fasteners.
In small boats, I never use a sleeve and trust the epoxy. Most of our builders always use a sleeve. It's your decision.
- For through transom fasteners:
-- Should i use a brass or stainless sleeve/tube between the fastener and the thickened epoxy? I'm not sure about how brittle the thickened epoxy becomes over time. My only concern is the thickened epoxy may crack over time if there is a side load from the fastener...thus allowing water into the transom. Or maybe the sleeve is not necessary.
That last one is question for the sterndrive manufacturer and I guess that no mechanic would like to remove a gimbal sealed with 5200! Other sealants may be fine but if there is a foam gasket, it's probably sufficient. I am not certain.
-- Do you recommend a type of sealant for the gimbal housing to the transom plate? There is a foam gasket, but i'm wondering if i should put some sealant around the mating surfaces as a precaution. What type of sealant would you use?
Thanks guys!
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
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Re: 86 Mirage rebuild
Haven't posted in a while, been busy working on the boat and not on the net. Below are some pictures.
Next I need to get all white the antifouling paint (or is it gel coat?) off.There is a red coat under the white, thus i'm thinking it must be an antifouling paint. Other opinions? If the white is a gel coat, i can primer right over it (after sanding). If not, and i take the risk, I will be doing the hull paint again.
One question i have for the designers...
I want to add a transom width platform (a.k.a swim platform). I also want to mount a kicker on the aft/starboard side of the platform. The kicker weighs 108lbs. It would hang 1.5' off the the transom. Any idea if the step will hold the kicker? Obviously i plan on putting angle braces (4 of them) under the platform. Is this a bad idea? The other option is to put a removable portion of the platform and mount the kicker right on the transom.
Next I need to get all white the antifouling paint (or is it gel coat?) off.There is a red coat under the white, thus i'm thinking it must be an antifouling paint. Other opinions? If the white is a gel coat, i can primer right over it (after sanding). If not, and i take the risk, I will be doing the hull paint again.
One question i have for the designers...
I want to add a transom width platform (a.k.a swim platform). I also want to mount a kicker on the aft/starboard side of the platform. The kicker weighs 108lbs. It would hang 1.5' off the the transom. Any idea if the step will hold the kicker? Obviously i plan on putting angle braces (4 of them) under the platform. Is this a bad idea? The other option is to put a removable portion of the platform and mount the kicker right on the transom.
Re: 86 Mirage rebuild
You'll see what it is while you grind it off. Once you get to the polyester (gel coat is polyester), grind the smoothness down for the paint to get a good grip and that is the surface you start working on.1986Mirage wrote: Next I need to get all white the antifouling paint (or is it gel coat?) off.There is a red coat under the white, thus i'm thinking it must be an antifouling paint. Other opinions? If the white is a gel coat, i can primer right over it (after sanding). If not, and i take the risk, I will be doing the hull paint again.
Primer then paint of your choice.
The System Three primer is great, it is an epoxy and works will any paint.
If you are going to paint with bottom paint later, stop at the primer. Put a couple of coats on and that's all you need.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
Re: 86 Mirage rebuild
Kicker: if you put it on the platform, the platform has to be very strong.1986Mirage wrote: One question i have for the designers...
I want to add a transom width platform (a.k.a swim platform). I also want to mount a kicker on the aft/starboard side of the platform. The kicker weighs 108lbs. It would hang 1.5' off the the transom. Any idea if the step will hold the kicker? Obviously i plan on putting angle braces (4 of them) under the platform. Is this a bad idea? The other option is to put a removable portion of the platform and mount the kicker right on the transom.
I would make the platform from at least 1/2" ply, double where the kicker goes and 4 vertical braces to support the platform, all tabbed with biaxial glass to the transom and to each other.
It's a lot of work but it will look good and strong.
Copy the design of an Armstrong bracket for shape and dimensions.
A kicker on a ladder will not last but you may prefer a sailboat type outboard bracket, the kind that goes up and do, next to a ladder or smaller swim platform.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
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