Hey folks, it's about time to bite the bullet and buy a motor. The local Honda dealer has a new BF60 in stock, or they can order a new BF50. Here's the deal:
The BF60 weighs 239 lbs, costs $6680.
The BF50 weighs 214 lbs, costs $6600.
(Both are "bare" motors, no cables, gauges, props, etc. Are these decent prices?)
I know the FS17 was designed to be light, have a light motor, not need to carry a lot of fuel, not go too fast, etc., but would an extra 25 lbs on the transom really hurt? I still haven't placed my leaning post and center console (with group 24 battery and 18 gallon tank), so I could move it a little further forward. If it makes any difference, my transom is extra beefy (additional layer of ply on the clamping area, overkill filets & glass on the transom, motor well sides and "D" bulkhead) and my bottom has two oval shaped (on each side) extra layers of glass where I filled a hollow after stitching the panels together.
Would I ever "need" the extra 10 hp? Could I ever use the extra hp? Is it worth 25 lbs and $80?
Actually I'm happy with the BF50, but I'd welcome your collective input on this one...
Thanks,
Bill
Honda BF50 or BF 60 on an FS-17
Re: Honda BF50 or BF 60 on an FS-17
You will not need the extra 10 HP but the weight difference will not play a role.
The transom can take it.
Yes, it may be beneficial to move some weights a little bit forward but you can wait until you launch the boat and see if it is necessary.
You can also plan for trim tabs.
Did you already install the console? If not, move it 6" forward.
The transom can take it.
Yes, it may be beneficial to move some weights a little bit forward but you can wait until you launch the boat and see if it is necessary.
You can also plan for trim tabs.
Did you already install the console? If not, move it 6" forward.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
- Cracker Larry
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Re: Honda BF50 or BF 60 on an FS-17
Not many people ever wished they had less HP
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
"Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made." -Robert N. Rose
Re: Honda BF50 or BF 60 on an FS-17
I know of one person that I helped prop his 60HP Yamaha on his FS17 and was glad he had the HP. He was able to pull his kids around on tubes. Plus he had two bait tanks in the rear. Larry I think you remember Kurt from Crystal River.
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
Re: Honda BF50 or BF 60 on an FS-17
I am know for resisting the idea of more fiberglass and more HP . . .
but I also understand that most builders want more glass like to protect a gunwale from a cast net or more power to tow kids on a tube.
but I also understand that most builders want more glass like to protect a gunwale from a cast net or more power to tow kids on a tube.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
Re: Honda BF50 or BF 60 on an FS-17
Thanks everyone. If Jacques says 60 HP is OK, who am I to argue!!
Tom--can you give me any details on the prop for your friend ended up with? I'm guessing the Yamaha and Honda 60's would be about the same, could save me some time and money figuring it out for myself!
Jacques--I'm at the point where I want to hang the motor to see where the cable runs go, so for weight placement anything is possible. Actually, I'd like to float the boat with my deck sitting on the floors (not glued in) so I could move my leaning post and console (with fuel tank and battery) around to dial in my fore and aft trim. Motor clamped on, ice chest, full tank of gas, 2 guys, etc. That being said, can you give me an idea of what an ideal "resting" waterline looks like? I.e. Is it as simple as laying a level on the sole (which is supposed to be parallel to the waterline)? Do I want it a little stern heavy at rest? I really don't want it to be bow heavy underway...
Thanks,
Bill
Tom--can you give me any details on the prop for your friend ended up with? I'm guessing the Yamaha and Honda 60's would be about the same, could save me some time and money figuring it out for myself!
Jacques--I'm at the point where I want to hang the motor to see where the cable runs go, so for weight placement anything is possible. Actually, I'd like to float the boat with my deck sitting on the floors (not glued in) so I could move my leaning post and console (with fuel tank and battery) around to dial in my fore and aft trim. Motor clamped on, ice chest, full tank of gas, 2 guys, etc. That being said, can you give me an idea of what an ideal "resting" waterline looks like? I.e. Is it as simple as laying a level on the sole (which is supposed to be parallel to the waterline)? Do I want it a little stern heavy at rest? I really don't want it to be bow heavy underway...
Thanks,
Bill
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