ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia

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cape man
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia

Post by cape man »

It will clear.... 8)
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glossieblack
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia

Post by glossieblack »

cape man wrote: Sat May 28, 2022 6:24 am It will clear.... 8)
Well it has. Inside info?
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).

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cape man
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia

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I told it to stop.
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman

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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia

Post by Fuzz »

Getting deep.

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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia

Post by TomW1 »

Fuzz wrote: Mon May 30, 2022 12:33 pmGetting deep.
Only the mud. :lol: :lol: Tom
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glossieblack
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia

Post by glossieblack »

Last year I installed a stand-alone 12V 360 degree LED white light on Great Sandy as a steaming light when passaging overnight. It's also used as an anchor light when she is on her mooring buoy in the Noosa River, as required by local regulation. It is by far the brightest light in the anchorage.

When moored, I want to reduce the light's intensity in order to reduce the amp/hour draw down on the house battery bank.

How I can switch from full to partial light intensity in an electrically efficient way?
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).

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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia

Post by Jaysen »

Well… that’s tricky. An ESP 8xxx or a AVR could easily do the job but you’ll need to do some work with a step done buck converter and programming (both chipsets are available to be programmed via arduino).

Alternatively you could just get …

12V Dimmer Switch, RV Light Dimmer High Side PWM Dimming Switch for Boat Camper Trailer Van Truck Cars, Works with LED Light Fixture, Halogen, Incandescent, Strip Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09M9TF3SQ/re ... UTF8&psc=1
My already completed 'Lil Bit'. A Martens Goosen V12 set up to sail me to the fishing holes.
Currently working on making a Helms 24 our coastal cruiser.
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glossieblack
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia

Post by glossieblack »

Thanks for the quick reply Jaysen.

Just checking - does this type of dimmer reduce amp draw-down as he light level is reduced?

Don't dimmers progressively reduce light level by progressively shedding amps as heat, with amp draw-down remaining constant?
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).

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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia

Post by Jaysen »

No. PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) is a method of switching the voltage on and off quickly to create the illusion of dimming. The dimming effect is created by the length of the “on” pulse. The longer the “on” the brighter the light appears.

When building a unit to spec I would modify the clock cycle, the PEM frequency, the chipset, and the switching circuit to reduce draw as much as possible. When buying a unit look at the specifications on device draw as well as the duty cycle specifications to find a low draw designed circuit. There are better (and more expensive) units than the one I provided.
My already completed 'Lil Bit'. A Martens Goosen V12 set up to sail me to the fishing holes.
Currently working on making a Helms 24 our coastal cruiser.
“Mark Twain/Samuel Clemens” wrote:Eat a live frog first thing in the morning and nothing worse will happen to you the rest of the day.
Jaysen wrote: Mon Apr 29, 2019 3:44 pm I tried to say something but God thought I was wrong and filled my mouth with saltwater. I kept my pie hole shut after that.

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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia

Post by joe2700 »

glossieblack wrote: Wed Jun 01, 2022 10:34 pm Last year I installed a stand-alone 12V 360 degree LED white light on Great Sandy as a steaming light when passaging overnight. It's also used as an anchor light when she is on her mooring buoy in the Noosa River, as required by local regulation. It is by far the brightest light in the anchorage.

When moored, I want to reduce the light's intensity in order to reduce the amp/hour draw down on the house battery bank.

How I can switch from full to partial light intensity in an electrically efficient way?
Do you know how many amps the light is drawing? Even a very bright LED is pretty low draw. My 2 mile anchor light draws 0.15 amps, so my single group 24 house battery could run it for 210 hours before being drawn down to half capacity. You may want to limit the brightness for other reasons, but I suspect the current draw is a non factor unless you are leaving it on for over a week with no charging at all.

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