ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
- cape man
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
It will clear....
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman
- glossieblack
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).
- cape man
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
I told it to stop.
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman
Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
- glossieblack
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
Last year I installed a stand-alone 12V 360 degree LED white light on Great Sandy as a steaming light when passaging overnight. It's also used as an anchor light when she is on her mooring buoy in the Noosa River, as required by local regulation. It is by far the brightest light in the anchorage.
When moored, I want to reduce the light's intensity in order to reduce the amp/hour draw down on the house battery bank.
How I can switch from full to partial light intensity in an electrically efficient way?
When moored, I want to reduce the light's intensity in order to reduce the amp/hour draw down on the house battery bank.
How I can switch from full to partial light intensity in an electrically efficient way?
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).
- Jaysen
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
Well… that’s tricky. An ESP 8xxx or a AVR could easily do the job but you’ll need to do some work with a step done buck converter and programming (both chipsets are available to be programmed via arduino).
Alternatively you could just get …
12V Dimmer Switch, RV Light Dimmer High Side PWM Dimming Switch for Boat Camper Trailer Van Truck Cars, Works with LED Light Fixture, Halogen, Incandescent, Strip Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09M9TF3SQ/re ... UTF8&psc=1
Alternatively you could just get …
12V Dimmer Switch, RV Light Dimmer High Side PWM Dimming Switch for Boat Camper Trailer Van Truck Cars, Works with LED Light Fixture, Halogen, Incandescent, Strip Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09M9TF3SQ/re ... UTF8&psc=1
- glossieblack
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
Thanks for the quick reply Jaysen.
Just checking - does this type of dimmer reduce amp draw-down as he light level is reduced?
Don't dimmers progressively reduce light level by progressively shedding amps as heat, with amp draw-down remaining constant?
Just checking - does this type of dimmer reduce amp draw-down as he light level is reduced?
Don't dimmers progressively reduce light level by progressively shedding amps as heat, with amp draw-down remaining constant?
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).
- Jaysen
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
No. PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) is a method of switching the voltage on and off quickly to create the illusion of dimming. The dimming effect is created by the length of the “on” pulse. The longer the “on” the brighter the light appears.
When building a unit to spec I would modify the clock cycle, the PEM frequency, the chipset, and the switching circuit to reduce draw as much as possible. When buying a unit look at the specifications on device draw as well as the duty cycle specifications to find a low draw designed circuit. There are better (and more expensive) units than the one I provided.
When building a unit to spec I would modify the clock cycle, the PEM frequency, the chipset, and the switching circuit to reduce draw as much as possible. When buying a unit look at the specifications on device draw as well as the duty cycle specifications to find a low draw designed circuit. There are better (and more expensive) units than the one I provided.
Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
Do you know how many amps the light is drawing? Even a very bright LED is pretty low draw. My 2 mile anchor light draws 0.15 amps, so my single group 24 house battery could run it for 210 hours before being drawn down to half capacity. You may want to limit the brightness for other reasons, but I suspect the current draw is a non factor unless you are leaving it on for over a week with no charging at all.glossieblack wrote: ↑Wed Jun 01, 2022 10:34 pm Last year I installed a stand-alone 12V 360 degree LED white light on Great Sandy as a steaming light when passaging overnight. It's also used as an anchor light when she is on her mooring buoy in the Noosa River, as required by local regulation. It is by far the brightest light in the anchorage.
When moored, I want to reduce the light's intensity in order to reduce the amp/hour draw down on the house battery bank.
How I can switch from full to partial light intensity in an electrically efficient way?
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