Wizard CNC Kit

[jacquesmm]

Yes to all the questions but I am still waiting for the model files. Richard is travelling and will send me the files mid next week.
I am certain that I can incorporate puzzle joints and drill holes for stitches. Once I am done, I will submit the new kit files to Richard for approval.

[htom]

I was reading Gougeon's book, and I starting thinking about leveraging the CNC kit to speed up the build. In the book, it mentions applying the initial coat of epoxy before the actual start of the build. I starting thinking about apply the initial epoxy coat to all wood components before the CNC pieces are cut out for assembly, and I can sand down the initial coat easily too. The initial coat will easier to handle, since the components are horizontal. Also, I can epoxy coat one entire sheet at a time, thus working on multiple components at the same time. Is there any problems with my logic? Will I be introducing problems later on in the build using this method?

I would think this would reduce the number of working hours of the project.

[Lon]

A rough rule of thumb is that is that you can apply epoxy only to plywood panels and small pieces (cleats, for example) that will not require bending when fixing to the boat.

[jacquesmm]

The above is correct but still, after assembly you must go over all the seams with epoxy to be certain that all crevices are coated with resin.
I find it easier to epoxy coat the whole boat after assembly.
In all cases, never fiberglass before assembly: we need the overlaps.

PS: I should be ready with a kit quote for the Wizard by the end of the week.

[htom]

remove dup

[htom]

Hi,

I like to understand the commitment before I start a project.

I like to understand the logistics of the building the hard chine version of a Wizard 22.
- What is the projected build time of this project without the CNC kit?
- What is the projected savings in build time with the CNC kit?

Do you have an update on the CNC kit?
What additional wood components will need to be purchased for the project?
What is the projected material cost for the build?

Thanks

[jacquesmm]

Those questions are for Richard except for the kit.
I received the files this morning but they are 2D. I have to rebuild a model then extract panels from it. I will do that this week-end.

[Woods Designs]

Predicting build times is really hard as everybody builds at different speeds and to different standards. However I can say that when we had a Wizard it was a round bilge strip plank version and we paid for the build on an hourly rate. It took about 850 hours to the painting stage for the complete boat. I only estimate 'ready to paint" build times as again everyone has a different version of "finished"

The nearest to a Wizard that I have personally built was the prototype Skoota 20 which has similar plywood hulls and cuddy/cockpit and folding system.

Obviously a hardchine hull will be quicker than a strip plank round bilge one. And a kit will be quicker again. I know thats not very helpful but is the most honest answer I can give you.

Maybe other builders can offer guidance for a CNC cut kit versus building from scratch. You're only looking for a comparison so it doesn't matter which boat it is

BTW have you seen these videos of a hard chine Wizard home built in NC?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0KU_O5c0xY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gOvLOIP2QB8

Please contact me direct if you want to discuss it further in private

Richard Woods

[Woods Designs]

If I had a kit of parts for the Wizard hard chine hulls this is what I would do:

Day 1

Set up the bulkheads on a strongback (or concrete floor) at the spacing given so that they are square and level. Fit the inner stem to Bhd1. Fit the stringers, gunwales and keelson into the bulkhead notches. When fair glue in place.

Day 2

Plane stringers if required (mainly the keelson near the bow for about 3ft). Glue the hull panels together in one long panel (if I had help to handle them) or fit the panels one at a time if I was working alone.

Day 3

With help, fit the keel panel in position check for fairness. Temporary screw in place. Fit the lower hull side panels so that the "top" edge extends just past the keel panel and that the chine line forms a fair curve. Once satisfied all is good remove and glue in place (help needed for gluing, see above if alone)

Day 4

Fit the upper hull side panels, ensuring the chine joint forms a fair curve. The gunwale edge can be overwide, trim it back after turning over. Again, once you are happy glue to stringers

Day 5

Trim keel/chine joints as required. Glass keel and chine joints with 2 layers glass tape

Day 6

sand/fair joints as required. Glass sheath hull (help needed)

So I/you should be able to make a hull in a week ready to paint and sand, before turning over and glassing inner chine/keel joints and bhd/hull skin joints filleted or glassed depending on the specific bhd

Richard Woods

[Woods Designs]

The central cuddy is basically a box with a cambered roof, built completely separate to the hulls. Most people start with that and also make the cockpit floor and beams before starting on the hulls. Two reasons, a rectangular box is easier to make than a hull. And you can do it in a standard 2 car garage and yet put the car away at night. You can build the hulls in a garage if you do it at an angle, one at a time. We did, as you will see on the photo sheets that accompany the plans

Richard Woods