Jaysen here is where you can get a 1x2' square of 316 just cut enough for the corners and then cut strips for the skeg. https://www.metalsdepot.com/stainless-s ... -sheet-316 It is not cheap so you might look into aluminum.
Tom
Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
Ah...I see..go metal..no routing needed, just angle the metal so water flows off it..1/8" stainless will work well for the corners..
Get a piece of 3/4" rubrail.
I might make you some corner pieces if I have the stock.
Specify the thickness and I'll let you know what I have here.
Get a piece of 3/4" rubrail.
I might make you some corner pieces if I have the stock.
Specify the thickness and I'll let you know what I have here.
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
Well... after a bit of drama this weekend "the boss" has made a declaration regarding the state of Lil Bit. I am to fix it with a few layers of glass and get back to rowing. Mrs is unhappy that I'm not able to take her sailing in EITHER boat. "Fix Lil Bit enough so we can have a picnic and plan the perfect solution for next summer."
I guess I married the right one.
I have to deal with some leftover mess on the helms this week but should get the sanding and glass underway later this week. The weather is perfect for it.
I guess I married the right one.
I have to deal with some leftover mess on the helms this week but should get the sanding and glass underway later this week. The weather is perfect for it.
- Jaysen
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
With the holidays a fading memory and work letting up a bit, I had a few minutes to get back to Lil Bit.
If y'all haven't noticed I'm a bit lazy. I wasn't looking forward to sanding all that graphite off the corners. So I thought about it a bit (for about 6 months) and realized that I already have a tool to address this problem. The power planer. In about 5 minutes I reflattened and removed the "damage" from the skeg and removed the top of the corners. I need to figure out how I'm going to approach the long keel and dagger trunk area, but I can assure you that a power planer will be involved.
Pics!
This is the starboard transom corner. This is the worst corner showing all of 3min working with the planer at 1/64"
The skeg was a spongey mess (from impact not rot). 2 min at 1/32" running fore to aft and done
I was feeling cocky after my success and just used the 1/32' setting on the port transom. Three passes... about 30sec.
I think this thing beats an SOB or RO for material removal. Beats the angle grinder for control.
If y'all haven't noticed I'm a bit lazy. I wasn't looking forward to sanding all that graphite off the corners. So I thought about it a bit (for about 6 months) and realized that I already have a tool to address this problem. The power planer. In about 5 minutes I reflattened and removed the "damage" from the skeg and removed the top of the corners. I need to figure out how I'm going to approach the long keel and dagger trunk area, but I can assure you that a power planer will be involved.
Pics!
This is the starboard transom corner. This is the worst corner showing all of 3min working with the planer at 1/64"
The skeg was a spongey mess (from impact not rot). 2 min at 1/32" running fore to aft and done
I was feeling cocky after my success and just used the 1/32' setting on the port transom. Three passes... about 30sec.
I think this thing beats an SOB or RO for material removal. Beats the angle grinder for control.
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
There is a lot to be said for hiring the lazy guy to find the most efficient way to accomplish a desired goal.
I should have probably used the same tool this weekend instead of spending an hour+ sanding excess glue, but I was kind of enjoying it o.0
I should have probably used the same tool this weekend instead of spending an hour+ sanding excess glue, but I was kind of enjoying it o.0
- Jaysen
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
The problem for most with the power plane is that it makes things flat. Perfect for removing glue from beam laminations. Less ideal for boat hulls. Hence my scratching my head about how to leverage this for the keel line forward of the skeg. The bow is complex curved and I could not get a contact patch I liked before I started getting frustrated.
I’ll go back out and look for better contact patch tonight. Key thing will be marking the hull so I can follow the path tomorrow.
I’ll go back out and look for better contact patch tonight. Key thing will be marking the hull so I can follow the path tomorrow.
Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
If you check out tips from a shipwright on youtube, he fairs a hull with the plane. also, his tips for tuning a plane up are top notch.
Jaysen wrote: ↑Mon Dec 27, 2021 4:15 pm The problem for most with the power plane is that it makes things flat. Perfect for removing glue from beam laminations. Less ideal for boat hulls. Hence my scratching my head about how to leverage this for the keel line forward of the skeg. The bow is complex curved and I could not get a contact patch I liked before I started getting frustrated.
I’ll go back out and look for better contact patch tonight. Key thing will be marking the hull so I can follow the path tomorrow.
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
In a fully convex, gently slipped hull it should be fairly easy to get a 90% fair with just some ridge reduction needed via sanding. The lines on the V12 are aggressive enough that I’ll either get flat spots on the convex or miss the mild concave portions. Should I ever get the helms in my yard she will get the full power plane treatment.
I would also think any of the larger hulls would be prime candidates for power plane fairing.
I would also think any of the larger hulls would be prime candidates for power plane fairing.
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
Remember, I'm a lazy man. Laaaazyyy man.
I've cut back the finish to expose where I must replace glass. As I'm sitting here looking at it I'm trying to understand why I would grind off all the graphite vs just scuff and fair. Based on the idea that the only structural glass on this boat is the seam (and I have tape inside) then I think I should be safe just taping on top of the graphite. All this glass is doing is providing limited abrasion resistance.
That said here's the update.
Long chat with Ried and Jeff. Effectively I'm going to be making this repair every 6-12 mo based on how I'm abusing the boat. I built her as a workboat and to be knocked around on rocks, concrete, oysters and sand. I wore through 9 layers of glass in what I would consider a year of active use (2x6oz on chine, transom/bottom, transom/side, and 2x12 oz bottom and 1x12 oz side). There is no way I can expect any repair to be more than temporary unless I completely change how I launch and use the boat (which I won't). Since she's a workboat and I'm going to keep using her as a workboat, I went out today and hacked away the finish to get to a point where I think I'm ready to start with the glasswork next week.
This is the worst corner (starboard). I will put 3x6oz tape on the chine and transom edges then 2 layers of 12oz glass. This will be "wear pad" and should be rebuilt every 3-6mo of use.
The other corner (port). Same plan. this didn't wear as much because of how I launch/recover/drag. I'm right-handed so I tend to "lift" the port side when I'm dragging the boat up/down the ramp or over crap. I'm doing to do the same build-up just to give me a common point for wear.
The dagger trunk glass wore through as well. That is just one layer of 6oz. I THINK it is where the mud/sand tend to wear. I spend a lot of time in the mud with a loaded boat. Remember that Lil Bit isn't so lil... empty she's at 150. Loaded for pleasure sail, 225. Fishing brings her to 275. Then add my 200 to it and the wear makes sense.
And here's the bow damage. A bit less than the after corners but still enough to need a couple layers of tape and fabric.
As I mentioned in the opening, I'm kind of planning to just go over the graphite since this will all wear off in a couple months anyway. That will make the repair fast and get her back in the water faster. I want to be putting meat in the freezer by March.
I've cut back the finish to expose where I must replace glass. As I'm sitting here looking at it I'm trying to understand why I would grind off all the graphite vs just scuff and fair. Based on the idea that the only structural glass on this boat is the seam (and I have tape inside) then I think I should be safe just taping on top of the graphite. All this glass is doing is providing limited abrasion resistance.
That said here's the update.
Long chat with Ried and Jeff. Effectively I'm going to be making this repair every 6-12 mo based on how I'm abusing the boat. I built her as a workboat and to be knocked around on rocks, concrete, oysters and sand. I wore through 9 layers of glass in what I would consider a year of active use (2x6oz on chine, transom/bottom, transom/side, and 2x12 oz bottom and 1x12 oz side). There is no way I can expect any repair to be more than temporary unless I completely change how I launch and use the boat (which I won't). Since she's a workboat and I'm going to keep using her as a workboat, I went out today and hacked away the finish to get to a point where I think I'm ready to start with the glasswork next week.
This is the worst corner (starboard). I will put 3x6oz tape on the chine and transom edges then 2 layers of 12oz glass. This will be "wear pad" and should be rebuilt every 3-6mo of use.
The other corner (port). Same plan. this didn't wear as much because of how I launch/recover/drag. I'm right-handed so I tend to "lift" the port side when I'm dragging the boat up/down the ramp or over crap. I'm doing to do the same build-up just to give me a common point for wear.
The dagger trunk glass wore through as well. That is just one layer of 6oz. I THINK it is where the mud/sand tend to wear. I spend a lot of time in the mud with a loaded boat. Remember that Lil Bit isn't so lil... empty she's at 150. Loaded for pleasure sail, 225. Fishing brings her to 275. Then add my 200 to it and the wear makes sense.
And here's the bow damage. A bit less than the after corners but still enough to need a couple layers of tape and fabric.
As I mentioned in the opening, I'm kind of planning to just go over the graphite since this will all wear off in a couple months anyway. That will make the repair fast and get her back in the water faster. I want to be putting meat in the freezer by March.
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
I have seen guys with wood drift boats put a layer of UHMW over the bottom. It does a good job of protecting the bottom plus it is slick enough to slide off rocks easier.
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