Jaysen depends on what size tape you will use. 6" you will need 3" on a side plus another inch for fairing to make it smooth. 4", 2" plus 1" for fairing. Good to see you keeping 'Lil Bit' ship sound and hale. She is a pretty little boat.
Tom
Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
Patch with heftier glass. If you wore through say a 6 oz woven tape, then you want to use something that can wear more. Or...
Personally, I'd avoid tape and hit it with thickened resin. Use about 50% milled fiber and 50% aerosil and you could probably add graphite to it. Abrade and clean the area with acetone. Milled fiber and cabosil are hard as hell and will do the same work as new tape. You don't really need to do a tape repair unless you have several feet of wear.
Personally, I'd avoid tape and hit it with thickened resin. Use about 50% milled fiber and 50% aerosil and you could probably add graphite to it. Abrade and clean the area with acetone. Milled fiber and cabosil are hard as hell and will do the same work as new tape. You don't really need to do a tape repair unless you have several feet of wear.
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
I'll get into this in a moment. You will ask one question... what the fork are the ramps and mud made of where Jaysen lives?fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Sun Sep 26, 2021 2:42 am Patch with heftier glass. If you wore through say a 6 oz woven tape, then you want to use something that can wear more. Or...
Ignore the dirt. She's been sitting bottom up for way too long and I haven't cleaned her in a LOOOONG time.
The corners: these are 3 layers 6oz biax, covered in 4 layers 12oz glass, silica weave fill, 4 layers graphited epoxy. The excessive glass is all due to overlaps.
aft starboard
aft port
Skeg damage is expected. I'm just going to soak it with epoxy, a layer of silica, a layer of 12oz, then silica fill and graphited. It will wear off in a trip or two so I may skip the glass.
Bow... 3 layers 6oz biax, 2 layers 12oz woven.
How did all this happen? well, I have to drag her up a ramp before I can put her on the cart. That and dragging her across sand/mud banks fil of oysters. Oh... oyster beds. In my defense, there is a lot of wave action on the ramps and when I'm dragging her around. So it's pretty much 40grit grinding wheel on all the surfaces.
There you go Fuzz. Pictures.
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
Metal.
Install some metal runners.
I'd even put a metal wear strip on the back corner. You can buy 316 hollow back rubrail or flatback(I'd go flat; it is thicker). Alan Ray at rubrails.com is in Florida. Solid back is the way to go. Flatten the skeg a bit after getting the size. Roughen the back of the metal and screw it every 6" and use 5200 on the piece and screws.
Alternatively, Richard Woods has a few boat versions to haul down ramps and beaches and they all use boat dollies to avoid that damage. Size the dollie as needed, but wouldn't need much.
The back pieces you can just try gluing on..
Install some metal runners.
I'd even put a metal wear strip on the back corner. You can buy 316 hollow back rubrail or flatback(I'd go flat; it is thicker). Alan Ray at rubrails.com is in Florida. Solid back is the way to go. Flatten the skeg a bit after getting the size. Roughen the back of the metal and screw it every 6" and use 5200 on the piece and screws.
Alternatively, Richard Woods has a few boat versions to haul down ramps and beaches and they all use boat dollies to avoid that damage. Size the dollie as needed, but wouldn't need much.
The back pieces you can just try gluing on..
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
How wide is the skeg across the top?
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
Skeg is 3/4"
I use a Dynamic Dollies type 1 with the large wheel kit. Mine has a few modifications to accommodate the V12 vs the planing dingies that it typically holds. The issue is that there is no place to tie up when Lil Bit is sitting for dolly retrieval/stowage. The southern side of the ramp is rip rock and oysters... aka death. To the north side is solid concrete, stepped sea wall. That wall claims a boat a year. I've considered a mooring ball but then I have to address getting to/from the ramp/boat. The only real option is to put Lil Bit on the ramp. When the tide is low enough, I do beach her on the mud/sand. Problem is that by the time tide is in enough for me to get dinner and then get back to ramp it is almost always under water.
I was thinking about metal plates on corners and a keel strip. Not too worried about the skeg. I really want to avoid screws but I'm not sure 5200 or epoxy would really hold. If you notice the long scratches on the hull between the skeg and the corners... those are all rock/oysters. I think I would need to route out a recessed mounting pad. That hull is only 1/4" so I'm not keen on that idea. That 1/4" hull thickness also poses a problem for screwing metal down.
I did consider some UHMD plastic that I could easily taper to reduce the pry away problem. Not sure that will work well though.
Ideally, I would get my "first mate" to manage the trailer. Problem is that she's not capable due to some physical limitations.
Back to the problem that is keeping me off the water, I'm thinking that just laying a couple layers of 12oz will get it. If it lasts a season I'll be lucky. If not I have time to find a better solution.
Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
Jaysen CL and I came up with a metal strip solution for his skeg and he then did the same thing for cape man, get hold of cape man to tell you how to do it. Both OD18's have been in the water so long I don't remember. As far as the corners triangles of SS with 5200 and 2 SS screws into the transom work just fine. Of course build it back up to protect the wood.
Regars, Tom
Regars, Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
You can make up a strip of solid glass 1/4-3/8 thick maybe one inch wide and then glass it to the keel. Then if you want to add metal you can screw into solid glass. This is one place where metal beats the heck out of glass. I used a piece of channel iron I had laying around for a mold. Or a piece of waxed wood would work also. The glass will still be flexible when you first take it out of the mold.
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
The short of it is that the keel (other than at the bow) is supposed to be sacrificial per the plans. It's the corners that are problematic for me. I think Tom's idea of the SS corner screwed in the transom might be best. Not sure where to locate said SS.
Thanks. I'll reach one once I get a bit of the cutting/sanding/rebuilding started. I'm sure I can adapt what you all did to something that hit it for me.
Does anyone care to suggest how far back I need to clear down to wood? I'm a bit nervous about that bow damage as it might be down to wood there too. If it is I'll pull back about 6" and stack some glass in there while thinking what I might do to prevent a recurrence.
Currently have inquiry to neighbors for a manual lift on a dock. Seems like overkill but...
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
That's a good example of why I built up multiple layers of glass on the skeg of my D5. The first year it took a pretty decent hit that didn't make it through the glass layers, so I just mixed up some resin with milled glass fibers, and then reapplied the graphite mixture on top of that. If you really wanted to armor it, metal like was suggested, and pot some threaded inserts into the skeg. Then anti-sieze the screws when you install the metal guard.
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