Steve's FS18

[Dutch1]

I stopped by BoatBuilderCentral to get my supplies and plywood for my FS18 build. It was nice meeting everyone and they have a great setup. It was hard to leave there without spending more money on the other items they sell. I'm sure I'll be calling before this is over. . I grabbed a pic once we loaded the plywood since I haven't seen one here yet of them. I think one gentleman from their team was out at the time.



The load of epoxy, fiberglass, wood flour, etc, etc.


I'm going to try and post a lot of pictures during this build. There are a few things in particular I wish I could see more pictures of on others FS18 builds. I'm also thinking about using the gopro and taking pictures every 20 minutes or so when I'm working on it to make a video of the build.

Now for my list of newbie questions. . .
1. Does anyone have the measurements for a bow mold? I didn't see them in the plans but may have glazed right over it. I know it isn't required but there are a lot of limestone rocks and oyster bars around where I fish. I'd prefer to have the added strength.
2. How level should I make the strongback? After scratching my head for a few minutes after building it I realized my garage floor slopes towards the door by about 1/2". But, I also have one corner that is 1/8" low from a bow in the 2x6. I know it's there and can compensate for it if needed. Or, should I make it truly level? BTW, it's square.
3. How high should I make the strongback? I'm thinking about 24" high. I don't want to be bent over the whole time I work on it before flipping if it's too low. If you have pics of good designs please send them. I saw a good pic of Seaslug's and Cracker Larry's but I will need it to be mobile. I'm not going to sand this thing in the garage for one 5' 2" reason.

A few pics of today's events.
The mascot wondering what's going on.


Where I'll spend time scratching my head over the next few weeks. .


Basic strongback

[Jeff]

Dutch1, very nice meeting you in person last week and glad the long drive got you back home safe and sound!! We will be watching your build closely!! Thank you for your business!! Jeff

[jacquesmm]

Bow mold: the dimensions should be there, on the stations or frames drawing. I don't have the plans with me, I ma in Homosassa.
The mold does not stay in the boat, it's role is to shape the bow. For a stronger bow, add a layer of tape but you"ll see that it is string as designed.
The strongbacks *2x4's) should be in the same plane, not twisted. Level is better and easier to work with.
As for the height, make it so that you can easily reach the keel, let's say 18 to 24" for the strongbacks.

[Dutch1]

Bow mold: the dimensions should be there, on the stations or frames drawing. I don't have the plans with me, I ma in Homosassa.
The mold does not stay in the boat, it's role is to shape the bow. For a stronger bow, add a layer of tape but you"ll see that it is string as designed.
The strongbacks *2x4's) should be in the same plane, not twisted. Level is better and easier to work with.
As for the height, make it so that you can easily reach the keel, let's say 18 to 24" for the strongbacks.

Wish I was there with everyone but as you know, I wanted to get started. The bow mold isn't on the D279/3 drawing but it doesn't matter since I thought the mold would stay in there for support. And, I'm going to go with the 1/8 drop on one corner of the strongback. I'll use that end for the transom and compensate when I tack that end.

I'm currently spooked by the Station E drawing and sitting here pondering with a tape measure and pencil. The 3/4 above baseline has me stopped in my tracks. Mainly, I don't know what the top width of station E should be. 49"? I'm thinking that isn't right since the baseline is 3/4" below the top of the side panel and if I cut it 49 that will leave a 1/2" gap on the aft edge of the fore deck. Shouldn't the measurement be from the half width of the baseline edge? The "cutting a plywood frame" tutorial is good but doesn't cover the baseline question. I can't figure out my center line until I know this width. I may draw it out without using the corner of the plywood as a starting point as the nesting drawing shows. Perhaps on a piece of cardboard first. And, do I subtract the 3/8" deck width from the height of the station? I read that on another users build but didn't want to second guess the plans for the stations.

[Dutch1]

OK, before anyone wastes any time on answering my station E question. I drew it out on cardboard and the difference is marginal and could be filled in with epoxy putty. But, I measure 24 5/16" from the centerline to the baseline edge. And, I didn't compensate for the deck width. IF I have to cut the deck width out I'll do that when I flip it and take the stations back out. The 24 5/16" measurement came after using the station E plans. I'll draw out station A on cardboard as well since that has a bigger baseline gap.

Good stuff. . .

[K2FS18]

Just measured mine. Currently with the skiff upside down, it is at 22". I am currently fairing and getting ready to epoxy/graphite paint. When I first built the frame, it was at 27" to top of 2x6. I cut 7" off when I flipped to work on the inside (20"). It is know resting on 2" boards across the frame. All of those heights worked great for the work that was being preformed at the time. I am 6'.

[K2FS18]

So who is who in the photo?

Also, always got to have the dog for a helper. Mine is always laying out front of the shop just watching the world go by. Unless I am using the Fein saw, then he heads into the house as the noise is beyond loud.

[K2FS18]

Also on the frame. I am assuming that the mid blocking is laid out with the stations. If not, position them so as it makes installing stations much easier. When installing stations, screw ledgers to station then to the upper part of the blocking, then wedge the bottom part of the ledger to plumb the station. I would try to make the frame as level as possible. It will help when you lay the panels on the stations and start to get the hull in position.

You may consider getting a sander that you can install to a shop vac along with bags that go into the shop vac and good filter. I don't have an issue with sanding dust, just the sawdust from cutting. Moving in and out of the shop will keep moving hull on the stations and possibly get it all out of wack.

[Dutch1]

Thanks for the info and taking the time to go measure your strongback K2! I've had about 5 hours of sleep the last two days so I'm drawing a blank on one of the guys names. . . From left to right is Jeff, Jacques, and .... I think Sean. I'll remember as soon as I hit submit on this post. Dang it, sorry guys. Time for some zzz's.

I didn't put much thought into where the cross support braces would go for the strongback. The recommendation of adding them at the station locations is my first official lesson learned for this build. That would have been one nice piece of information to have. . . I'll check when I go back out and I may just put some 2x4's at those locations. I don't know what you mean by ledger. Do you have a pic? I've marked all station locations (inside and out) and the centerline on the strongback. I've also marked the centerline and a horizontal line on the stations so I can line it up easy before I mount them to the strongback. Right now, it's sitting on two saw horses and the height is perfect for drawing out all of the pieces. I'm 6' as well and thinking the strongback will end up around 22". I can always raise it easier than lower....

I really like the idea of hooking up a vacuum hose to the sander. I always thought the little bag on there was a joke anyway when I used it previously. I'm thinking some gorilla tape should hold the hose on there pretty well. I'll give that a try.

[K2FS18]

Here you can see the layout of the med blocking 2x6's and what I am calling the cleats, the 1x4's attached to both the blocking and the stations. I also screwed my frame together as screws hold better than nails and if it needs adjustment it is easy.