Nida Core for Hardtop

[markdd3880]

I am preparing to build an 8' x 10" hardtop for my Regal 3880 and attempting to find more info on the use of Nida Core. The concept would be to use 1" thick plain scrim covered, laminated with polyester resin with 1708 and mat for the main area together with heavier density coosa over the radar arch rear support / two forward front supports.
Reading the contributions on the forum it would appear that there is a problem treating and finishing the raw edges as nothing will stick to the bare core cells so I have a few questions for anyone having experience with this product that would be kind enough to help me out.

1) Does the plain scrim covered Nida Core have any flexibility at 1" thickness ie would it conform to say a 2" crown in the hardtop mold? If not can it be Kerf cut to enable bending in this fashion?
2) Assuming the Core can indeed be conformed to the mold how feasible is it to cut wire channels and light fixture points out prior to final lamination?
3) Is there any tried and tested way that will seal and allow finishing of the raw edges.
4) Is it possible to place the coosa inserts and bond to the Nida Core (Could Nida bond be used for any of this process?) I assume that there must be an acceptable way of joining sheets as it is sold in smaller pieces for transport purposes.

Would very much appreciate any information that anyone could offer on these questions

[dirtwheelsfl]

I am preparing to build an 8' x 10" hardtop for my Regal 3880 and attempting to find more info on the use of Nida Core. The concept would be to use 1" thick plain scrim covered, laminated with polyester resin with 1708 and mat for the main area together with heavier density coosa over the radar arch rear support / two forward front supports.
Reading the contributions on the forum it would appear that there is a problem treating and finishing the raw edges as nothing will stick to the bare core cells so I have a few questions for anyone having experience with this product that would be kind enough to help me out.

1) Does the plain scrim covered Nida Core have any flexibility at 1" thickness ie would it conform to say a 2" crown in the hardtop mold? If not can it be Kerf cut to enable bending in this fashion?
2) Assuming the Core can indeed be conformed to the mold how feasible is it to cut wire channels and light fixture points out prior to final lamination?
3) Is there any tried and tested way that will seal and allow finishing of the raw edges.
4) Is it possible to place the coosa inserts and bond to the Nida Core (Could Nida bond be used for any of this process?) I assume that there must be an acceptable way of joining sheets as it is sold in smaller pieces for transport purposes.

Would very much appreciate any information that anyone could offer on these questions

1. Yes, very flexible. You will want to laminate one side, then lay a 2x4 or something under the outside edges to form your crown, and laminate the other side (which will be the underside) and it will lock the crown in

2. The way i do it, it doesnt need a mold, just some battens under the edges to form the crown. Make sure youre on a pretty flat surface though! Lam the topside first, then route out whatever you need to from the underside and put in your chases/coosa inserts etc then lam the underside.

3. Easiest way i know of is gluing en edge banding of foam to the exposed cells. Then round it over and wrap with glass. (or wood or pvc etc)

4. I would just glue the inserts in with thickened epoxy, but the nida-bond will work. Yes, just glue the sheets together with the nida-bond also.



I did this one in 1" core with 5" of crown. PVC board glued to the edges... You can look thru the pics here

https://www.flickr.com/photos/138621964 ... en-public/

[peter-curacao]

I did what you wanna do in P3 duct board,epoxy and Biax it holds up great, you can see detailed step by step construction here (click on the arrows above the picture to go through the pics) http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage ... play_media
Never tried it but I'm pretty sure I can stand on it

[markdd3880]

Thanks very much guys this information and especially the pictures are a great help!!
OK well thats going to save any mold building I like that method.
I am now thinking it would be much better to go with the Epoxy Resin rather than Polyester due to the better bonding.
Very much appreciate the input thanks again.