FS 17 - Raised Sheer

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joe2700
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Re: FS 17 - Raised Sheer

Post by joe2700 »

I've been working on my hatches putting a thick backinh board on all of them inside the frame to keep them from warping. Also drilling the holes for the latches.
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Now that I have them on a real hatch I really like the friction hinges. Keeping the anchor hatch open is a great example.
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They will put a lot of strain on the attachment to the hatch through, and I was already worried about solidly attaching the hinges to the thin 3/8" hatch. I did a test tapping a 8-32 thread into g10. The impact driver stripped the screw without damaging the threads, so I think it holds a thread well. I will embed a g10 plate in the hatch lid where each hinge goes, and tap holes to attach the hinges with short machine screws. On the frame side the screws can go at least and inch into the frame, so happy with that.
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I also got my HIN assigned which is exciting. Anyone know where I can get the HIN engraved in 316 stainless steel?



fallguy1000
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Re: FS 17 - Raised Sheer

Post by fallguy1000 »

Boat looks great.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

Fair WX Pilot
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Re: FS 17 - Raised Sheer

Post by Fair WX Pilot »

The boat looks great. Very interesting about the G10, well worth remembering.
Alan.

joe2700
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Re: FS 17 - Raised Sheer

Post by joe2700 »

Haven't had much boat building time the past few months but have been working on some bits and pieces like the hatches.

I also added the cupholders to the console as well as getting drains set up for them so the inside of my console stays dry. You might see here I also decided to ditch the analogue guages and use a second plotter. I have the Suzuki gateway to show all engine information and warnings on these displays.
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Another problem I've been trying to figure out for a while is how to get my all around light over my head so it doesn't effect my night vision as I boat at night a lot. I also wanted a decently high VHF antenna. Both things need to pivot down so I can go under a low bridge and I wasn't loving anything I mocked up that had multiple tall things coming up from my console to mess with. Decided to make a bit of a mast with a light and VHF whip antenna at the top. The light will be directly over me, and the antenna will be high up but not super high gain since a small boat can roll around a lot. Used g10 tube for the mast and mocked up the layout for the top, then made it from plywood.
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For the bottom I am using a vhf antenna mount so the whole thing can pivot down. They use a 1"-14 thread so I needed a metal tube with that thread on one end and that would accept the g10 on the other. I drilled and tapped a short piece of 316 pipe then rounded the other end after enlarging it a tiny bit to accept the g10 tube. This whole part was one of the jankiest things I've done in a while, and I continue to think 316 is terrible to work with, but I'm trying to not use any 304 on the boat. As this is a one off part I used a cheap drill bit and tap for the threads. The drill bit had to be sharpened about 10 times to make it to depth and then went straight in the trash.

The tap made it about 1/3 in then I couldn't go further with a monkey wrench, and putting such an off center load was scaring me. I was about ready to just pay someone to make the part from the extra pipe so I decided to just power through. I did what I knew at the time was a terrible idea and hooked the tap to a 1/2" impact. I got another 20% of the way there before the tip of the tap was too chipped to continue. I tried sharpening it but had no good way to so that didn't help. Then I realized the tap was way longer than I needed, so I just used an angle grinder to cut off 3/8" from the tip of the tap exposing fresh threads. Doing this 3 more times I was able to finish tapping the hole.

Next up I rigged up a terrible "lathe" using the tap in the drill to spin the piece while I used a flap disk to shape it.

The threads are a mess and the outside is not evenly shaped but it doesn't look terrible and it works so I'll take it for now. I was going to glue the g10 in to this piece but then it wouldn't be possible to adjust the twist of the mast, so I decided to use set screws on the base instead. Of course 316 I broke a tap making these holes as well, but got that cleared and finished the part. As far as a practical fix to the problems I was trying to solve I'm really happy with this, just wish the base piece was higher quality.
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Last thing I did was etch my HIN on some 316 stainless pieces as I couldn't find anyone to make these. Had the HIN cut out of vinyl and used that as a mask while I etched the pieces suspended in ferric chloride for about 5 hours at room temp. Ended up with a nice deep engraving. I'll clean these pieces up and embed on one the transom and one in a hidden location.
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pee wee
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Re: FS 17 - Raised Sheer

Post by pee wee »

Nice work! 8)
Hank

joe2700
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Re: FS 17 - Raised Sheer

Post by joe2700 »

I've been away from the project for a bit, got a puppy on Thanksgiving and a new puppy takes quite a lot of time and makes traveling to the boat difficult. Enjoying it though! Anyway, making some progress over the holidays.

For the rubrail I'm going to varnish it. I wanted to get some on there now to keep the wood clean and easy to tape while I worked near it. I'm going to use a 2 part varnish, that should be more durable than a one part product. It's still very thin though and would take many coats to build up. Also as it's harder it can crack if the wood expands or contracts too much. A solution is to build up a few coats of epoxy first, to build thickness and completely seal the wood for stability. Then a few coats of 2 part varnish over the top for looks and uv protection.

I epoxied a small sample of the oak to make sure it wouldn't be too dark, and I like how it looks.
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Then put 2 coats of epoxy on the rub rails. Great to see them bright! I then scuffed them right down though. They will be bright again soon enough.
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I also needed to build the lip that transitions from the side deck to the rub rail. I wanted this to be a consistent reveal along the entire sheer line as I think it will be an obvious visual feature. I applied a bead of quickfair along the transition, then used my custom tool to shape it. While I still have plenty of fairing to do along this transition to make it seamless, I did get a consistently sized lip the entire way, and I think it looks great.
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This is the tool I made for it.
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I also started making the delrin plates that will stabilize the seat back as it slides fore and aft.
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Jeff
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Re: FS 17 - Raised Sheer

Post by Jeff »

Nice work!!! Jeff

joe2700
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Re: FS 17 - Raised Sheer

Post by joe2700 »

For my seat I cut out the oak arms and guides now that I know the right length. Marked the pivot and rounded end on each arm then drilled them.
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For the guides I marked where the arms are at the fore and aft limit of travel and what angle that is. Then cut out the slot for the arms to travel in. The arms will slide tight against delrin on the inside, and I'll leave a slight gap between the arms and oak guides on the outside so they don't bind up.
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Did a test fit with the cooler again and the pivot action is pretty nice. I need a bit more clearance on the oak guides, and I need to use locknuts since it jams when the pivots get too loose, but much better than the test one before the delrin. Still need to put nice rounded corners and edges on all the parts.
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Only problem is the cooler doesn't quite open all the way, I needed the seat to go about 1/2" further forward. Without opening all the way the lid won't stay open on its own. It would be pretty difficult to change that now, so instead I'll take 1/2" off the back side of the seat back. Bit of a pain but might as well get it right.
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joe2700
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Re: FS 17 - Raised Sheer

Post by joe2700 »

Made some progress on the hatch lids. Routed out the space for the g10 plate for each hinge...
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...then glued them in.
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Once that's cured I can round all the edges on the hatches then fair them for primer. Back to sanding the side decks for now.

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cape man
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Re: FS 17 - Raised Sheer

Post by cape man »

Nice details and documentation.
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman

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