Matt looking at the picture of where you want to mount your tabs move them almost them almost all the way out to the edge of transom, just leave a couple of inches. No reason to leave more, there is plenty of strength there.
Matt look at the Hummingbird units they have down looking for higher speeds and side looking at lower speeds. Helix 9 Chirp Mega Si it is $1500. A larger screen size is much more 15" is $3499. https://www.humminbird.com/fish-finder-product-selector Matt did a little reading of the FAQ's and the side sonar said will read objects in as little as 2' of water 50' feet from the boat. And an area 480' wide up to 150' deep. Speed must be less than 10 mph for the side sonar to work well. Must be mounted on the transom,
Just lock your tabs up when you slow down and you will be fine and keep the sonar unit as far as you can from the motor. The down looking sonar part of the unit will not be affected by where you mount it. You may have to mount it separately that wasn't real clear.
If I were you I would get the 18" with the wings and mount the transducer 1/2 way between the motor and the tabs. You should not have any trouble then. If I were you cut that strake off at least 18"-24" in front of the sonar, so you have more room in placement of it. It will take at most an 1/2 hour with a good sazall and sand it down and another hour to repaint the hull over a day or two. I know more time you don't have but lets do it right and not do a make shift installation.
Well that's my two cents, worth one tomorrow. Hope it gives you some ideas.
Tom
DE25 Ownership Log
Re: DE25 Ownership Log
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: DE25 Ownership Log
The boat does not have any strakes.
Re: DE25 Ownership Log
What is the wood piece marked by the circle and X?
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: DE25 Ownership Log
Looks like the skeg to me.
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Re: DE25 Ownership Log
Yeah that's the skeg / keel. That was my 30sec PowerPoint attempt at showing the path of the propeller to scale. Coulda made a better effort with that.
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Re: DE25 Ownership Log
Trim tab job is done. Installed the 18x12 Bennet Bolt (electric) tabs with the integral controller/switch with indication. On a production boat with a synthetic transom this may have been a 3-4hr job; I've easily got over 20 into this (including the mounting block) with the hole prep. Running the wires was a challenge too as my rigging tubes were full.
After a couple trips I can safely say that every DE and similar hull should have trim tabs. Total game changer for wind chop; we were able to run 22-24 into quartering 1.5-2' across a wide river. Before tabs that was 8-10 with hull slap. Nice day on the Indian River to see the Melbourne air show.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhnvpMpyeuE wish we could embed video here.
Bennet may be conservative with their sizing recommendations, these are well more than enough area to move the boat however you want. Maybe the larger tabs are a bit more efficient (same moment effect at lower angle/drag).
I bought a chunk of 1" G10 (factory-manufactured fiberglass) and glued it on the transom as a transducer block. Then if/when I change, no need for more holes in transom. Found an old pole spear to use as dowel pins, that worked well. Problem is the G10 is so hard, the wood screws for mounting the transducer bracket shear off before driving all the way in. It may need to be tapped for a machine screw.
As part of that job also replaced the block for the rigging tube on the transom. It is now glassed-over meranti ply with epoxy plugs for the screws. Just covered over with some temporary paint, need to paint whole boat at some point. I've found that the cracking/crazing on the paint goes down to the fairing compound level. The entire boat is covered in micro-cracks.
The bowsprit and Samson post are also failing. I don't know what wood was used for these parts, same as the transom block and parts of the front hatch. It didn't last at all. The center plank (of three) on the Samson post was dry rotted about half-way through, while the outer ones were fine. For some reason the center one had a bunch of epoxy filler on it too, maybe it was an uglier piece of wood to start with. Termites? Don't know. The outer ones have a grain like Oak, but I'm no wood expert.
Kinda stuck on how to fix this. I like the post as part of the character of the boat, but also need to rely on it as I sleep on the boat in remote anchorages. I have very limited access into the anchor locker, where this is bonded to the front of the first bulkhead. I'm looking at cutting it off and bolting on a commercial stainless one, but the remains will be in the way of the backing plate. There is only a small longitudinal from the post to the stem under the 3/8" ply deck. I really don't want to pull the fwd deck to replace the samson post entirely. I think if I fill the middle plank and glass it over I'd have a hard time sleeping. So far just cleaned up surface and chiseled out most of the crap.
After a couple trips I can safely say that every DE and similar hull should have trim tabs. Total game changer for wind chop; we were able to run 22-24 into quartering 1.5-2' across a wide river. Before tabs that was 8-10 with hull slap. Nice day on the Indian River to see the Melbourne air show.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhnvpMpyeuE wish we could embed video here.
Bennet may be conservative with their sizing recommendations, these are well more than enough area to move the boat however you want. Maybe the larger tabs are a bit more efficient (same moment effect at lower angle/drag).
I bought a chunk of 1" G10 (factory-manufactured fiberglass) and glued it on the transom as a transducer block. Then if/when I change, no need for more holes in transom. Found an old pole spear to use as dowel pins, that worked well. Problem is the G10 is so hard, the wood screws for mounting the transducer bracket shear off before driving all the way in. It may need to be tapped for a machine screw.
As part of that job also replaced the block for the rigging tube on the transom. It is now glassed-over meranti ply with epoxy plugs for the screws. Just covered over with some temporary paint, need to paint whole boat at some point. I've found that the cracking/crazing on the paint goes down to the fairing compound level. The entire boat is covered in micro-cracks.
The bowsprit and Samson post are also failing. I don't know what wood was used for these parts, same as the transom block and parts of the front hatch. It didn't last at all. The center plank (of three) on the Samson post was dry rotted about half-way through, while the outer ones were fine. For some reason the center one had a bunch of epoxy filler on it too, maybe it was an uglier piece of wood to start with. Termites? Don't know. The outer ones have a grain like Oak, but I'm no wood expert.
Kinda stuck on how to fix this. I like the post as part of the character of the boat, but also need to rely on it as I sleep on the boat in remote anchorages. I have very limited access into the anchor locker, where this is bonded to the front of the first bulkhead. I'm looking at cutting it off and bolting on a commercial stainless one, but the remains will be in the way of the backing plate. There is only a small longitudinal from the post to the stem under the 3/8" ply deck. I really don't want to pull the fwd deck to replace the samson post entirely. I think if I fill the middle plank and glass it over I'd have a hard time sleeping. So far just cleaned up surface and chiseled out most of the crap.
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Re: DE25 Ownership Log
You can you just need the use the youtube bbcode AND the short url YouTube publishes for sharing. In this case the code looks likeMatt Gent wrote: ↑Sun May 23, 2021 1:30 pm Nice day on the Indian River to see the Melbourne air show.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhnvpMpyeuE wish we could embed video here.
Code: Select all
[youtube]https://youtu.be/GhnvpMpyeuE[/youtube]
https://youtu.be/GhnvpMpyeuE
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Re: DE25 Ownership Log
Nice work Matt. I wish I had tt on my fishing skiff.
I can't tell what the wood is either
I have a bronze under chrome sampson post with the chrome coming off. You could have it and get it dechromed it you want it. It was on a 24' '76 Starfire fisherman.
I would make the rubrail wrap by chiseling veneer layers back and wrapping pieces of new veneer starting at the shortest. After chiseling the existing veneers back which will take hours, you can cut to thickness, measure for length and fit the new veneers. You could try african mahogany, but show the guys at a wood store and see what they say. Thin enough and it won't need steam to bend. It looks like ten -12 veneers, so a half inch step for each layer would be 6" or so chisel back on each one. Least all the work is outside, and you develop a lot of strength.
An alternative would be to cut a bevel back into the rubrails, say on a 45 and wrap each piece in a shorter length. That might crack, though.
Still another idea is to make it integral to the metal bowsprit with welded stainless and 5200 the thing in. Fastest, but highest cost. Getting the stainless to wrap well would require you make a jig of the front of the boat. But you can't epoxy the thing then.
To avoid going into and under the deck; you can make a fiberglass top plate like or g10. 3 layers of 1708 is about 0.150", so about 9-10 layers is a half inch. If the deck has only a light crown, you can make the part on a table and bond it to the deck after cutting it. I'd use a bandsaw for the first clean up, then table saw, then chop saw the shape you want. Really hard on tools. Sand it to final shape and epoxy bond it to existing deck and you can sort of do whatever you want for size and backing. If you go the top plate route, do that before jigging the metal as it will be higjer then.
I can't tell what the wood is either
I have a bronze under chrome sampson post with the chrome coming off. You could have it and get it dechromed it you want it. It was on a 24' '76 Starfire fisherman.
I would make the rubrail wrap by chiseling veneer layers back and wrapping pieces of new veneer starting at the shortest. After chiseling the existing veneers back which will take hours, you can cut to thickness, measure for length and fit the new veneers. You could try african mahogany, but show the guys at a wood store and see what they say. Thin enough and it won't need steam to bend. It looks like ten -12 veneers, so a half inch step for each layer would be 6" or so chisel back on each one. Least all the work is outside, and you develop a lot of strength.
An alternative would be to cut a bevel back into the rubrails, say on a 45 and wrap each piece in a shorter length. That might crack, though.
Still another idea is to make it integral to the metal bowsprit with welded stainless and 5200 the thing in. Fastest, but highest cost. Getting the stainless to wrap well would require you make a jig of the front of the boat. But you can't epoxy the thing then.
To avoid going into and under the deck; you can make a fiberglass top plate like or g10. 3 layers of 1708 is about 0.150", so about 9-10 layers is a half inch. If the deck has only a light crown, you can make the part on a table and bond it to the deck after cutting it. I'd use a bandsaw for the first clean up, then table saw, then chop saw the shape you want. Really hard on tools. Sand it to final shape and epoxy bond it to existing deck and you can sort of do whatever you want for size and backing. If you go the top plate route, do that before jigging the metal as it will be higjer then.
Re: DE25 Ownership Log
Matt could you give us a picture of the cleaned up grain on the side of the post. It will give us a better look than on the edge grain. The other thing you might want to do is take a drill bit, or probe, and see how far the rot has penetrated the post. I hate seeing posts built like that, they should be one solid piece, so your problem would not happen.
Regards, Tom
Regards, Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
Re: DE25 Ownership Log
Hi Matt
I love the boat think it is a great design. I am thinking of building one from aluminum. What to you think of that idea. Do you think aluminum plate would make the bends. I am thinking 1/4 for bottom 3/16 sides. I know it would add some weight probably not as efficient but perhaps a better ride. I think there is one on YouTube (down east 25 aluminum) with twin 115 outboards. Looks like a nice ride but bare bones. Any thoughts would be great. Thanks rudy
I love the boat think it is a great design. I am thinking of building one from aluminum. What to you think of that idea. Do you think aluminum plate would make the bends. I am thinking 1/4 for bottom 3/16 sides. I know it would add some weight probably not as efficient but perhaps a better ride. I think there is one on YouTube (down east 25 aluminum) with twin 115 outboards. Looks like a nice ride but bare bones. Any thoughts would be great. Thanks rudy
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