Roller trailer enough support for stringer repair?

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
deadriver
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Roller trailer enough support for stringer repair?

Post by deadriver »

I will put a post up of a rebuild of a Maycraft 1900 i am starting.

First question is about support if yall can provide some input it is appreciated. The hull is sitting on a roller trailer that is from the mfg and fits it well. i have another trailer, a bunk trailer, from a 20' bay boat. They both have similar deadrise aft but midship and forward the Maycraft has a much stronger entry. I am not sure the bunk trailer will support it better.

I will need to remove the cap to rebuild the transom and i am likely to do that with Seacast, so i can rebuild it first then remove the rest of the floor (bought it with some sections removed from the previous owner and he backed out of the build). Stringers would come out last but that is where i worry about support. I could potentially build the seacast transom then replace the cap if that is a better approach...

Thoughts?

Fuzz
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Re: Roller trailer enough support for stringer repair?

Post by Fuzz »

You say the trailer fits it well now so I would probably still use it. You might want to look at blocking up under the keel to take some of the weight off of the rollers while doing the rebuild.
About the transom, why do you want to go with SeaCast? I have never used it so I would like to know what you gain in real life use.

deadriver
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Re: Roller trailer enough support for stringer repair?

Post by deadriver »

see below
Last edited by deadriver on Fri Jun 30, 2017 4:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

deadriver
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Re: Roller trailer enough support for stringer repair?

Post by deadriver »

Thanks for the response. i will come up with a way to block the keep from trailer beam to beam so that all of the weight is not on the rollers.

The main reason i was considering seacast is its rot-proof quality and ability to repair the transom before i cut out a diaphragm member (floor) that retains the hulls shape. I know there are complications with everything, but i guess i was leaning towards the meticulous work needed to clean out a transom vs. the risk of flex in the hull. There are a lot of folks who dont like the use of pourables, but there are thousands of posts from people (like me) replacing rotten wood transoms. It seems that a wood core transom will just always be a risk. I am not afraid of new technology and i would expect that you have to be obsessive about the prep work if you are not removing the skin of the transom to gouge out all the wood. It will all come out either way, so i am not looking for a shortcut, just considering what has the lowest risk. There are a lot of negative post that the pourable will not bond, but do not seem to be factual support for it, which implies a bias. I can either cut out the transom and rebuild or use a pourable, but it seems that hull flex is the real risk with rotted out stringers already.

If yall think i should not do a pourable transom, do you feel I can get away with removing the cap, gutting the transom from the inside with only a few feet of stringer removed to work on the transom and not have hull flex? If i go that route, i will likely use a composite core board vs. plywood. Holes will be drilled in a transom.....

Fuzz
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Re: Roller trailer enough support for stringer repair?

Post by Fuzz »

Have you read the tutorial here on replacing a transom? It is a good example of how to do it.
If you do a really good job of removing all the transom wood, not sure how you will get that done, then all you are left with is the outside skin and the thin inside skin. How much support do you think that thin skin will give at that point? I have rebuilt several transoms but never one like you are asking about. It might be the cat's azz but I have no experience with it.
I am not afraid of using new products. The first skiff I built was out of foam more than 35 years ago. I just have doubts about the pour method. If you really do not want wood in the transom they sell a foam here that is said to work well. I have never used it either but would not hesitate to give it a try.

TRC886
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Re: Roller trailer enough support for stringer repair?

Post by TRC886 »

Get it off the trailer and block it up, blocking it on the chines and keel only. The hull is too thin and flimsy to leave it on the trailer.

Seacast? This question has been asked several times, and its' use has never been recommended. Do a search and go from there. Also, study the various threads where others have made the same repair which you are starting on. Pay special attention to posts made by Cracker Larry. He was the best and most experienced member we've ever had. Sadly, we lost him recently :cry:

deadriver
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Re: Roller trailer enough support for stringer repair?

Post by deadriver »

Thanks. I will just go ahead and slide it off the trailer and put up on blocks. I removed the motor and got the cap ready for removal yesterday and will add a 19' Maycraft rebuild thread in a moment to document what i have vs what others have seen.

Appreciate all the help,
Bryan

Natalie21
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Re: Roller trailer enough support for stringer repair?

Post by Natalie21 »

These boat trailer rollers from SHORELINE MARINE are much better than the 170 stock Tracker trailer rollers. I replaced the old rubber fender on my boat. This one has 3 pieces, which makes it easy to install. Unfortunately, since my bot trailer is homemade, the mount is wider than the roller and I had to drill holes in the bracket to install the bolts, but it worked fine and worked better than my old stop.

OneWayTraffic
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Re: Roller trailer enough support for stringer repair?

Post by OneWayTraffic »

Hi Natalie21. In the hopes that you are a genuine person and not someone trying to advertise shoreline trailer rollers in her first post, you should be aware that this repair was hopefully completed since it was started 5 years ago. :wink:

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