Sanded the chips off the panels and there was still good resin underneath.
I brushed on another coat of resin and installed the seats and compartment bulkheads.
Getting better with fillets the more I practice. This was with tounge depresses. Over filled the corners then wiped off the excess with the tounge depressor flush with each panel to remove all excess.
Narfi's HC14 build thread - LAUNCHED
- cape man
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Re: Narfi's HC14
Like the looks of that. 3.5 sheets for a boat is still remarkable. You're learning a lot on this one for the next boat.
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman
Re: Narfi's HC14
Your fillets look better than most of mine. I haven't had the bubbles in the epoxy you asked about, but I have read that it can outgas and cause bubbles, esp. if the temp rises after application. It's not a problem there of course, but trying to understand it I wonder if the temp went up significantly before it cured
Dougster
Dougster
- cape man
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Re: Narfi's HC14
The bubbles are off-gassing from the wood. Can stop it by putting two thin coats on instead of one thicker. Not a problem. Just lightly sand and touch up those layers with another coat of epoxy. Had the same issue big time when I built the wood gunwales on my OD18, especially along the edges of the strips.
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman
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Re: Narfi's HC14
Pulled the clamps off. The seats seem nice and secure. Will glass them on later but wanted to get the rubrail fixed tonight.....
Testing out the seats Filled the areas adjacent the rub rails where the router dug too deep before I figurefigured out the depth lock was loose. At the same time put what I hope will be a nice radiused fillet along the entire rubrail.
This is where the router had dug in the deepest. It looks good now as long as the epoxy/wood flour doesn't sag any.
This is the gouge in the rubrail I overfilled and will shape back to perfection once cured.
Testing out the seats Filled the areas adjacent the rub rails where the router dug too deep before I figurefigured out the depth lock was loose. At the same time put what I hope will be a nice radiused fillet along the entire rubrail.
This is where the router had dug in the deepest. It looks good now as long as the epoxy/wood flour doesn't sag any.
This is the gouge in the rubrail I overfilled and will shape back to perfection once cured.
Re: Narfi's HC14
Looking good Narfi!
Re: Narfi's HC14
Narfi, looks like Landon is ready to add water!!! Jeff
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Re: Narfi's HC14
Question: How does well does marinepoxy bond over the S3 high fill primer and/or the awl grip topcoats?
1. Thinking about getting white in the end compartments before I close them up, but don't want to compromise the epoxy if that is an issue for closing it up.
2. Thinking about sequence once I start painting, would be easier to do the graphite bottom last, would there be any issue with doing that over the primer/topcoat?
Also.... I got the spray hardeners for my paint because I intend to spray it, but would there be any issue with brushing it in the compartments since it wont be very visible anyways?
1. Thinking about getting white in the end compartments before I close them up, but don't want to compromise the epoxy if that is an issue for closing it up.
2. Thinking about sequence once I start painting, would be easier to do the graphite bottom last, would there be any issue with doing that over the primer/topcoat?
Also.... I got the spray hardeners for my paint because I intend to spray it, but would there be any issue with brushing it in the compartments since it wont be very visible anyways?
Re: Narfi's HC14
narfi wrote: ↑Wed Aug 16, 2017 1:54 pm Question: How does well does marinepoxy bond over the S3 high fill primer and/or the awl grip topcoats?
I know it will bond to the S3 primer, I don't know about the awlgrip.
1. Thinking about getting white in the end compartments before I close them up, but don't want to compromise the epoxy if that is an issue for closing it up. Why not just run a taped off border and pull it after paint?
2. Thinking about sequence once I start painting, would be easier to do the graphite bottom last, would there be any issue with doing that over the primer/topcoat?
Same answer as question one.
Also.... I got the spray hardeners for my paint because I intend to spray it, but would there be any issue with brushing it in the compartments since it wont be very visible anyways?
Just test a small batch to see how it acts. I'm guessing it will tend to set up quicker than a brushing hardener/activator.
Re: Narfi's HC14
Marinepoxy will bond the S3 High build primer, no problem as S3 is epoxy based. It will not bond with any paint and will peel off over time.
Personally I would graphite the bottom first. That way if you got some paint on it you would not have a problem.
I agree with Eric test a small batch as spray paints normally are usually designed to dry faster.
Tom
Personally I would graphite the bottom first. That way if you got some paint on it you would not have a problem.
I agree with Eric test a small batch as spray paints normally are usually designed to dry faster.
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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