Looking good Narfi, that is some helper you have there. For drilling the hole for your hatch there are hole drills that will do that for you https://woodworker.com/38-1-6-circlewhe ... archmode=2 The largest of these will go out to 7 7/8". I don't know what your opening size is or you can use a jig saw carefully.
Tom
Narfi's HC14 build thread - LAUNCHED
Re: Narfi's HC14
Last edited by TomW1 on Sat Aug 19, 2017 2:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: Narfi's HC14
Got up this morning and brought the epoxy inside and put in a tote of got water in the bathtub.
While it was heating up I fried up a pan of sausage and bacon and eggs and refried beans. Great way to start a Saturday morning!
Then took the resin back out to the boat factory and coated the yoke and compartment batons.
Sky's are clear and sunny so hoping to get the tent baking today:)
While it was heating up I fried up a pan of sausage and bacon and eggs and refried beans. Great way to start a Saturday morning!
Then took the resin back out to the boat factory and coated the yoke and compartment batons.
Sky's are clear and sunny so hoping to get the tent baking today:)
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Re: Narfi's HC14
haha, those things scare me!TomW1 wrote: ↑Sat Aug 19, 2017 2:11 pm Looking good Narfi, that is some helper you have there. For drilling the hole for your hatch there are hole drills that will do that for you https://woodworker.com/38-1-6-circlewhe ... archmode=2 The largest of these will go out to 7 7/8". I don't know what your opening size is or you can use a jig saw carefully.
Tom
We have a circle cutter at work I will try to find, works like a compese as well, but the drill is on the outside going around a pivot point. Will take pictures if i find it and it is big enough. 7 3/4 is minimum hole size, but 8" would be ideal.
- bigyellowtractor
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Re: Narfi's HC14
It would have been easier to cut the hole with a jigsaw before fitting the bulkhead but if you draw your circle and drill a few holes around the perimeter, a padsaw or keyhole saw will do a decent enough job that a fettle with some sandpaper or a half-round bastard would sort.
You can get blades that go in a stanley knife; search "Stanley - 1275B Saw Blade For Wood"
You can get blades that go in a stanley knife; search "Stanley - 1275B Saw Blade For Wood"
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Re: Narfi's HC14
Brought the hole cutter home from work and cut the compartment hatch holes. They looked a little rough after cutting but it was an illusion, touched it with 80 grit block and it looked great.
Flipped it over and sanded the fillets under the rub rails.
Routed the bottom corner of the rubrail with 3/8" round over and sanded with a foam rubber 80grit block.
Decided I would do an idiot test on priming.....
Rough sanded the inside of the compartments certainly not perfect but knocked most of the sharp edges down....
Pulled it out and rinsed it off in and out, esp the end compartments.
Brought it back in and mopped out all the water with a sponge. Then dried the compartments with a paper towel.
It wasn't completely dry but the s3 primer can be thinned with water so hopefully not too big an issue.... part of the "idiot" test.
Taped the edges of the top panels and the tops of the batons in the compartments. Tape wasn't sticking too well because it was still damp.
Mixed 4oz to 1oz of primer, it is THICK. Specs say not to apply under 50f, it was 56f through the night.
Brushed it on with a cheap chip brush....
Checked this morning and it's still wet. Only 55f it says fully cured in 24hours at 77f........
Rained all night and not much evaporating going on, there was still water on other parts of the boat.
I think I applied it too thickly as it had pooled in the bottoms a bit and the pigment separated some in the "pools" however it did make a nice smooth bottom surface :p
Flipped it over and sanded the fillets under the rub rails.
Routed the bottom corner of the rubrail with 3/8" round over and sanded with a foam rubber 80grit block.
Decided I would do an idiot test on priming.....
Rough sanded the inside of the compartments certainly not perfect but knocked most of the sharp edges down....
Pulled it out and rinsed it off in and out, esp the end compartments.
Brought it back in and mopped out all the water with a sponge. Then dried the compartments with a paper towel.
It wasn't completely dry but the s3 primer can be thinned with water so hopefully not too big an issue.... part of the "idiot" test.
Taped the edges of the top panels and the tops of the batons in the compartments. Tape wasn't sticking too well because it was still damp.
Mixed 4oz to 1oz of primer, it is THICK. Specs say not to apply under 50f, it was 56f through the night.
Brushed it on with a cheap chip brush....
Checked this morning and it's still wet. Only 55f it says fully cured in 24hours at 77f........
Rained all night and not much evaporating going on, there was still water on other parts of the boat.
I think I applied it too thickly as it had pooled in the bottoms a bit and the pigment separated some in the "pools" however it did make a nice smooth bottom surface :p
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Re: Narfi's HC14
I managed to successfully apply S3. You'll be fine. Just give it time. If possible add heat to the primed material. Warm the wood and you'll warm the primer.
Although, I'm not sure you Alaska people understand what heat is...
Although, I'm not sure you Alaska people understand what heat is...
Re: Narfi's HC14
Narfi that is one heck of a nice hole drill.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
- Jaysen
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Re: Narfi's HC14
I looked over at the wife while we were sitting on the deck at noon. Noticed the thermometer was 92ish. Also noticed she was wearing a sweater. At 50 she stays in bed with the electric blanket on high.
I'd say she's got a broken thermostat but I'm looking for my own blanket at about 40. Apparently some of us Yankees were supposed to be crackers.
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Re: Narfi's HC14
Landon has been outside in just a t-shirt playing well below 0f.... drives his mother crazy. "I don't need a coat, I'm Alaskan boy!"
55f and raining I caught him at the playground in just shorts, no shirt or shoes soaking wet and covered in mud, having a blast. Asked where his shirt Was, "It was muddy so I took it off, it's not cold"
I sanded the ridges off the tapes holding the seats and compartment bulkheads. Sanded the epoxy drips off the bottom of the yoke. Sanded the edges of the 4oz cloth wrapped under the seats where it wasn't laid down perfectly.(tops and sides are good, just the edge of the cloth underneath had a ridge to sand)
Built up a large fillet of wood flour mix around the yoke, then epoxied in two layers of 12oz tape. The first layer about 1/2 the width of the outer layer you see in the picture. I'll sand the top off flush once it's cured. I think this should be plenty strong for holding it on place.
I mixed up some fairing compound and applied it to the seat tops and attachment areas as well as around the bulkheads and hopefully the last layer on the floor.
I mixed it thinner this time and used a brush in some places and the spreader in others. I think the brush will work well with thin fairing in spots as I get closer to finished.
I know the air bubbles aren't as big a deal on a non planing boat.... buy they have been bugging me. I attacked them with an exacto knife tonight and got one side done. Picture is of the worst area.
55f and raining I caught him at the playground in just shorts, no shirt or shoes soaking wet and covered in mud, having a blast. Asked where his shirt Was, "It was muddy so I took it off, it's not cold"
I sanded the ridges off the tapes holding the seats and compartment bulkheads. Sanded the epoxy drips off the bottom of the yoke. Sanded the edges of the 4oz cloth wrapped under the seats where it wasn't laid down perfectly.(tops and sides are good, just the edge of the cloth underneath had a ridge to sand)
Built up a large fillet of wood flour mix around the yoke, then epoxied in two layers of 12oz tape. The first layer about 1/2 the width of the outer layer you see in the picture. I'll sand the top off flush once it's cured. I think this should be plenty strong for holding it on place.
I mixed up some fairing compound and applied it to the seat tops and attachment areas as well as around the bulkheads and hopefully the last layer on the floor.
I mixed it thinner this time and used a brush in some places and the spreader in others. I think the brush will work well with thin fairing in spots as I get closer to finished.
I know the air bubbles aren't as big a deal on a non planing boat.... buy they have been bugging me. I attacked them with an exacto knife tonight and got one side done. Picture is of the worst area.
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