Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Thanks for the advice guys, will plan accordingly.

The sealed twist out hatches came. Need to figure out how to make 8" holes now....
Sanded the excess glue off the sides of the seats and sanded to tops off flush with the braces. (I had about an 1/8" overhang by intent so I could do this) I got more practice with the router and rounded over the tops and bottoms of the seats.
You can see I couldn't get to the edges so needed to profile them by hand.
Tools I used for working into the corners. Jason should be proud of the one.... :p It turned out ok I think. The very corners weren't perfect but good enough to fill with a new radius.
Cut out 4oz cloth for the seat tops and used sharpie to mark alignment when putting it back down. Cut the tapes for the seats and compartment bulkheads. This used the very last of the 50yard roll I had bought. Almost exactly enough.... the inside of one compartment was a little short but not bad.
Mixed wood flour glue and filleted the insides of the compartments and a little more on the seat edges to hull and corners to hull, then epoxied the tapes for the seats and bulkheads, then layed down the 4oz cloth on the seats and settled them out. They rolled under the seats pretty nicely over the rounded over radiuses I made. Temps were cool and rainy...... I think I ended up using alot more epoxy than otherwise because it was cool and not flowing easily with a brush. In the future for "larger" projects like that I will try to heat the bottles first I think.

49F is winter temperatures! No idea how you guys stand that up there.

Looks great. When do you plan to launch it?

Jaysen wrote: ↑Thu Aug 17, 2017 1:53 pm 49F is winter temperatures! No idea how you guys stand that up there.

Looks great. When do you plan to launch it?

When its done I guess.....
There is a saying I read a lot when studying homebuilt aircraft, 90% done, 90% to go.

I don't know what I am doing, and have no expectations. Just trying to do as much as I can each night after work and hopefully I will wake up one morning and it will be done.

Things I know I still need to do,

• Yoke.... I dragging my feet on this one because I have trouble visualizing what I want or how to do it. I really just need to do it and be done with it....
• Cut the 8" holes for the water tight hatches, seal the exposed plywood, overdrill the mounting holes and fill them with thickened epoxy and redrill to the proper size.
• Cut and glue batons around the tops of the compartments.
• Prime and paint in the compartments.
• Glue the tops on the compartments. (havent decided if I will put 4oz over the compartments or not, I probably will since I have everything else so far.)
• Finish shaping the ends of the rubrails and the overfilled gouge repair.
• Round over the 3 sharp corners of the rubrail and compartment bulkheads then seal the exposed plywood.
• At least one more round of fairing and sanding inside, possibly one more outside.
• A very very thoural cleaning of the boat and work area.
• Determine how high up the sides I want the graphite and tape and mask for that.
• Roll the graphite bottom on as many coats as to be determined. (3?)
• Sand edges of graphite if needed?
• Tape and mask off the graphite and prime the entire boat in and out.
• Paint White inside and rubrails down low enough to mask for lettering.
• Mask "Landon Reed" in 3" letters below the rubrail at each end. (should that be on the left or right when looking at the side? or should it be on all 4 ends?) Mask the Radioactive symbol on the tops of the compartments. (Landons favorite song for sometime has been Radioactive by Imagine Dragons) (I need to order the mask for the lettering and symbols, but keep forgetting)
• Paint the outside red, paint the masked symbols red, probably seats and yoke red as well to break up the pure (off)white interior.
• Remove all the tape and masking and cry about the blemishes.
• Glue and screw in the waterproof hatches.
• Launch!
• (Still want to build paddles, but not sure if I will fit that in or not)

Nice temp Narfi!! About 92 here and must be 110 in my warehouse!! Jeff

Looking good! Keep eating one bite at a time.

Thanks,

narfi wrote: ↑Thu Aug 17, 2017 2:46 pm

• Mask "Landon Reed" in 3" letters below the rubrail at each end. (should that be on the left or right when looking at the side? or should it be on all 4 ends?) Mask the Radioactive symbol on the tops of the compartments. (Landons favorite song for sometime has been Radioactive by Imagine

Been thinking about this, and will do Each side at the same end, that way there is some sort of identification on which end is which as it is nearly perfectly symmetrical. (would be nice to have a way of identifying which end I put my lunch in o.0 )

Ordered 2 sets of paint masks for the lettering 2" tall, and two for the radioactive symbol with a ring around it 6" diameter today.

Dug through the scrap pile of 2x4s and found the straightest least knotty piece I could find and using random round objects and strait edges drew a yoke pattern on it.

Went to my boss's father in laws who is an old woodcrafter but his shop is getting in floor hear and all his tools are in storage. He has a little saw that worked though and we rough cut out the shape I had drawn.

Once back at the boat factory Landon wanted to put the puzzle back together again :p
As you can see it was quite rough. Used the orbital sander to get the edges fairly flat and rounded the curves and flattened the straits. Then used the 1/2" round over bit in the router to round over all 4 sides.

I surprised myself how nice it turned out.

After this picture I did a bit more hand sanding and smoothed out the little ridges and bumps. It is ready to get sealed, sanded sealed again and installed.

What support should it have for installing? Was thinking maybe an inch or so of plywood "trim" on the hull around it to spread the glue surface.... it's kind of a small awkward shape for cloth or tape.... how do most people attach them?

Looking good !!!

I would think if you glued and filleted your yoke, it'd be fine but I'm sure with your glassing skills, you could get a little bi-ax tape to conform nicely just for a belts and braces job.

I have left my yoke wider where it will attach so I can screw it in two places to counter any rotational forces as I chuck the boat about. Be honest though how often will you be popping yours on your shoulders and lugging it about single-handed ?

Looking forward to seeing you painting

The yoke may be the one place (other than your hatches) where you use some hardware, and put screws in from the outside. Overdrill, fill with epoxy and redrill for screws. Glue it on the insides. If the rubrail is where the screws hit, you can counter sink them and then fill over the heads and no one will know but us. Use stainless.

Landon was having some fun with the yoke before installing it
Decided to "just" glue it in and fillet it. Will enlarge the fillets once it is secure and put one or two layers of tape around to the hull.

The bows rise up a bit so I couldn't use straight batons for securing the compartment tops. I cut them in 4 peices each side and that took care of the problem.