Stuart's D5 Dinghy.
- Jaysen
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Re: Stuart's D5 Dinghy.
Per my wife I am "a lazy turd". Which means "shortcuts and no sanding". It would not be a capital crime to make multiple passes to get an even fillet. But, take this from my experience, you DO want to make sure your fillers are consistently sized unless you want some funky looking seams. And you can use softer fill for the extra coats to make sanding easier. I like silica since it's suitable for under glass and a little goes a long way.
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Re: Stuart's D5 Dinghy.
Ok asking for advice here. i have included photos of some of the best and the worst spots. The final finished product I am shooting for is workboat by use but good looking workboat. I don't want to be looking at it ten years from now at funky looking glass work.
I have attached photos of some of the best and worst seams. All cable ties removed and the boat seems solid. How much sanding do I need to do at each to get it so I can lay glass down smoothly, aside from going over fillets with a bigger size and consistent radius? I have already spent a bit of time removing the most obvious lumps.
I have attached photos of some of the best and worst seams. All cable ties removed and the boat seems solid. How much sanding do I need to do at each to get it so I can lay glass down smoothly, aside from going over fillets with a bigger size and consistent radius? I have already spent a bit of time removing the most obvious lumps.
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Re: Stuart's D5 Dinghy.
I I have been thinking about how to proceed. There are four areas on the boat:
Fr ont to frame A. I have sanded out most irregular lumps here. I think it's ready for the 25mm fillets specified and biax. I have no idea how I will get biax around the acute angles but as this will be storage I want it on the bottom and sides if I can. This area won't be very open or visible under anchor, rope and other gear. I thought I would do this area second.
Frame A to Frame B. Some of the tidier fillets were here. If I sand, clean up and then lay fillets paint with neat epoxy and tape it should look ok. This area will be visible when done. I would do this area last.
Frame B Frame D. Same as above.
Frame D to transom. This area will be closed off as an air chamber with a small limber plug. I thought that after I get it cleaned up I would attack this area first. As long as it is strong and there are no air gaps, cosmetic mistakes won't matter much. So when ready, I will do this first.
I have just about got the bow to Frame A area cleaned up.
Fr ont to frame A. I have sanded out most irregular lumps here. I think it's ready for the 25mm fillets specified and biax. I have no idea how I will get biax around the acute angles but as this will be storage I want it on the bottom and sides if I can. This area won't be very open or visible under anchor, rope and other gear. I thought I would do this area second.
Frame A to Frame B. Some of the tidier fillets were here. If I sand, clean up and then lay fillets paint with neat epoxy and tape it should look ok. This area will be visible when done. I would do this area last.
Frame B Frame D. Same as above.
Frame D to transom. This area will be closed off as an air chamber with a small limber plug. I thought that after I get it cleaned up I would attack this area first. As long as it is strong and there are no air gaps, cosmetic mistakes won't matter much. So when ready, I will do this first.
I have just about got the bow to Frame A area cleaned up.
Last edited by OneWayTraffic on Sat Jul 22, 2017 8:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Jaysen
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Re: Stuart's D5 Dinghy.
If you want it to look good it has to be smooth. No ridges in the transitions. Consistency in radius and size of fillet.
Consider taping off the edges before you fillet. I'll be doing that next time.
Consider taping off the edges before you fillet. I'll be doing that next time.
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- * Bateau Builder *
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- Joined: Sat Jan 10, 2015 7:13 pm
- Location: New Zealand
Re: Stuart's D5 Dinghy.
I used a mixing cup 50mm in diameter to get an idea of what a 25mm radius fillet looks like. Anything outside of the line where the cup intersects the hull is getting a go over with sandpaper, and in some cases the grinding head of a fuller dremel clone. If need be I will step up to a larger fillet size. That will only cost money. I bought twice as much epoxy as specified, in order to get the price break.
The hull bottom seams I am sanding smooth so I can go over them with fresh thickened epoxy when I lay the fillet. I will post some photos when I have something to report.
I can honestly say I've learnt my lesson with respect to tack welding a hull!
The hull bottom seams I am sanding smooth so I can go over them with fresh thickened epoxy when I lay the fillet. I will post some photos when I have something to report.
I can honestly say I've learnt my lesson with respect to tack welding a hull!
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Re: Stuart's D5 Dinghy.
Photos of inside the boat. Got two or three hours of quality time with it today.
Re: Stuart's D5 Dinghy.
Good progress OneWayTraffic!! Jeff
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Re: Stuart's D5 Dinghy.
I think you're done it! Made a boat! All that remains is the rouge and lipstick.
Tony
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Re: Stuart's D5 Dinghy.
Terrulian,
What kind of boat are you building!? I'm worried you actually know what this rouge is used for. I know what lipstick is but ....
One way,
Great job!!
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