Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

So, I've muddled through the early stages of my FS14 build. I'm in Sedgwick Maine hustling to get some progress this summer before the Fall and temps lowering in my uninsulated garage. I've glued up panels, framed up molds, stitched up sections (first too tight, then too loose, then too tight, ugh. - hope i left enough gap for glue to do it's job). Now I've used EZ-Fillet (conservative amounts, hope it's enough) in seams and sanded fillet and edges all down to a smooth, rounded over edge. I think I'm ready for fiberglassing seams, but would like opinions on how I've done, how it looks, etc. The sanding brought 80% of areas down to smooth surface, but still some epoxy and fillet mild raises and bumpy areas - seems that fiberglassing will go over these areas and all will be okay. If anyone disagrees, let me know sooner than later. Ha.
Here's some pics, I hope.
Wes

Looks good!

Check out the boweye made by some of your fellow Maine residents:

http://www.bayofmaineboats.com/boweye.htm

Really nice for the small boats.

Bb sig, love the bow eye. I'll order it up. Assume I drill hole for it after fiberglass seams..

FinalFront, really nice work!!! Please keep those photos coming!!! Jeff

So, after reading some other posts,, I'm concerned that I didnt get enough gap btwn boards before I used ez fillet to glue seams. Especially on the keel & transom edges. Some of the keel had gap, but some was pretty tight. I didn't use any specific spacers on it. On sides & bottom edges, there was a V wedge created using a nail under zip tie. Though boards did pretty much all touch. With transom, I had to screw a few spots to hold up sides & down the bottom, so no glue specifically btwn edge of transom & sides/bottom. Just in V wedge where they met at edges.
If this is a problem structurally, I need to deal with it now.
Input? Jacques? See pics in this thread.
Thanks, wes

It's not going to be a problem. Very little of the strength comes from the glue in between the panels. Once you fiberglass tape these joints they will be very strong.

The reason for keeping a space is so the panels aren't pushing against each other which can lead to bowed or warped panels. If the shape of your hull looks smooth and fair then you're all set.

Re epoxy lumps and bumps not yet sanded out: a little scrapper can help a lot with these without sanding down the surrounding ply.

Dougster

Thanks Jaydilyo, I obviously agree with you, since i went forward and glued it up as I did, however some of the other threads seem to indicate I may not have done it correctly.
Hey Jacques, if you're around, can you weigh in on this issue - see my 8/2/17 post about the gap / glue issue and the detailed pics i attached.
Thanks, wes

No problem with your build.
The purpose of the gaps is to avoid hard spots. I see that the contact between your panels is very consistent, I do not see anything that looks like a hard spot.
I still prefer a small gap simply because it gives a guarantee that there will not be any hard spot.
Your panels were cut by the CNC machine and are very regular, no high and low spots. It is much easier to avoid hard spots with a kit.

Thanks Jacques.. endless second guessing.. I suppose I'm not alone, but ugh.
I'll power on to the fiberglass - I think I'll run it right up the sides to the rail (this will help cover the entire puzzle joint on the sides, which i think is supposed to be covered)- should I just cut cloth at rail edge, or overlay into inside wall a few inches?
Wes