Woods Skoota 32DM

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fallguy1000
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by fallguy1000 »

I bit the bullet and spent 250 on label makers and labels. Thanks for the advice. Now, will they go over terminations...we shall see.
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fallguy1000
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by fallguy1000 »

Well, made it to 30F today, so I got outside for half hour.

Managed to glue up the conduits I had to redo cuz they were too small.

Glued an insert into the battery trays to take out slop. The trays are not custom for the batteries, but will work.
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fallguy1000
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by fallguy1000 »

Now shifting gears to making the kitchen lower cabinet faceframe.
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Jeff
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by Jeff »

Really nice progress Dan!!! Jeff

fallguy1000
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by fallguy1000 »

I hate King Starboard. I'm thinking about ripping it all out.

I could have built 6 kitchens in wood in the amount of time spent messing with Starboard.

Here are all the things I hate.

1. It is really not sandable on the face to smooth any joint errors.

2. It has a lot of joint errors because it doesn't behave well and the plastic moves and pushes joints open.

3. It can be glued, but the glues are super expensive.

4. After all the extra work, all you save is painting.

5. It is heavy as hell.

6. In order to make my doors lighter, I'd like to use wood inserts. They won't match.

I'm a bit po'ed about the crap and almost want to tear it all out and do over with wood.
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jonnymac
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by jonnymac »

sorry to hear about your troubles. i think hdpe is hot air weldable. i wonder if hot air would smooth the surface out after sanding

fallguy1000
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by fallguy1000 »

jonnymac wrote: Thu Dec 23, 2021 7:58 pm sorry to hear about your troubles. i think hdpe is hot air weldable. i wonder if hot air would smooth the surface out after sanding
It isn't sandable. Like all plastic sheet (shit), it comes one side covered in protective plastic.

It is just super demoralizing to work with. The joints don't look good. I can't keep them flat; despite major clamp pressure. Granted, I don't have a clamping fixture, but wood never walks this bad and if you have trouble, you can sand it some. Sand this and the surface gets messed up.
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Jaysen
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by Jaysen »

Can you use high grit count and flame temper the polished surface? That might help salvage it a bit.
My already completed 'Lil Bit'. A Martens Goosen V12 set up to sail me to the fishing holes.
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fallguy1000
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by fallguy1000 »

Jaysen wrote: Thu Dec 23, 2021 10:09 pm Can you use high grit count and flame temper the polished surface? That might help salvage it a bit.
The stuff looks okay; just not meeting my standards. And I was going to make solid starboard doors, but so damned heavy. And then if I make 2" starboard doors with some lite ply insides; all the doors are gonna look like shit because the joints move so bad.

When you sand it; tends to heat and blob melt.
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cape man
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Re: Woods Skoota 32DM

Post by cape man »

I didn't comment earlier when you decided to use star board as you were really determined to use it, but everything you are experiencing now is what I feared. The weight alone would keep me away. I have a small piece I put on the transom of the SC16 to protect the hull and mahogany trim and it is too thick to allow the old Seagull I restored. Trying to grind or sand the 1 eighth of an inch I need to remove just makes a gooey mess. If you are that unhappy now you may want to switch gears. If it comes out wrong you'll hate it more and more over time.

It is great for flat surfaces and pretty much indestructible but takes special tools and experience to make complex furniture out of it.
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman

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