Normally you want fewer TPI not more. The big boy saws are 2-3" with 1-4 TPI for large resaw. I had the best luck on my orange box floor model with a 3/4" at 4TPI. Reducing the feed speed in tight grain or knotty wood helped with walk.
That said, you should really avoid knots if you are doing a bent lamination. They are weak and likely to introduce uneven bends. They can be used as a "decorative" last layer, but keep the core clear, consistent grain.
As to the gaps... I'd use thickened epoxy now that I've played with it and skip a LOT of the surface prep work I did in the past. It will fill the voids nicely and, as some point, the actual wood is almost unneeded. Think about it.
Looks like you are making good progress. Hope you are enjoying the laminating. I always did.
Woods for laminating
- Jaysen
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Re: Woods for laminating
Re: Woods for laminating
Jaysen makes good points. You'll also want to check blade tension and guide block clearances, etc. With some fussing you can get a cheap bandsaw to cut somewhat decently. Also, I've seen some bandsaw fences that were more like points that set the distance to the blade, not the long fence like what you've got. Those let you move the stock as needed to react to a wandering cut.
You can also play with coloring the glue with fillers to blend with the wood or contrast.
You can also play with coloring the glue with fillers to blend with the wood or contrast.
Hank
- Jaysen
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Re: Woods for laminating
I wasn't going to mention that, but yeah... table saw style fence is not really your friend unless you are using a BIG blade at really high tension, roller guides that support gullet to trailing edge and a power feeder. All the hand fed systems use a resaw fence that allows pivoting of the piece. That lets you do a few things.
1. Adjust to walking to do wood inconsistencies.
2. Adjust to natural wood shape when using ... less processed woods
3. Add some "pre-bend curve" to the strips.
#2+#3 and a steam tube... sky is the limit!
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Re: Woods for laminating
Thanks guys. The lowest tpi I've found is 6 like I have, so I'll order the 3/8" in it. It says it can hold up to 3/8" but there seems to be plenty of room on the wheels left, I might try a 1/2" later on for fun. I might try to build a point fence like you are talking about, maybe rounded so it wears better. I'm not cutting through the knots to use them, but if they are to the side affecting the grain I get walking. All that being said this was with pine, which is a stiffer more brittle ttpe then the cedar I have so we will see what happens.
I tried to pick up some cedar this morning from HD, but it was all soaking wet. I'll try the only wood supplier in town next.
I did get a 10" drill press, which I hope will be way better then the 8" harbor freight job I had, it couldn't even cut a 1" hole in soft pine well
I tried to pick up some cedar this morning from HD, but it was all soaking wet. I'll try the only wood supplier in town next.
I did get a 10" drill press, which I hope will be way better then the 8" harbor freight job I had, it couldn't even cut a 1" hole in soft pine well
Built: 15ft Skiff, 16ft Skiff, Modified Cheap Canoe, and an FS17.
- Jaysen
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Re: Woods for laminating
Try this... http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking ... wing-guide
Simple fence plan.
Do not oversize the blade. Or if you do, let it run for a lot longer than you normally would to make sure you have the wheel tracking right. Look at the wheels and you'll see they are crowned. The crown actually adds a lot to the blade tension and helps keep everything running straight on the wheels. If the crown arch is too tight it makes the wider blades wander more on the wheels AND tends to stretch the blade out "in the middle" a bit (which adds to wandering). If you get it just right you should be OK, just be careful.
For the record, I pushed a 1.25 on the orange box saw. Closest I've ever come to serious injury in the shop. Will never do that (or remove the blade retention safety on a band saw) again.
Simple fence plan.
Do not oversize the blade. Or if you do, let it run for a lot longer than you normally would to make sure you have the wheel tracking right. Look at the wheels and you'll see they are crowned. The crown actually adds a lot to the blade tension and helps keep everything running straight on the wheels. If the crown arch is too tight it makes the wider blades wander more on the wheels AND tends to stretch the blade out "in the middle" a bit (which adds to wandering). If you get it just right you should be OK, just be careful.
For the record, I pushed a 1.25 on the orange box saw. Closest I've ever come to serious injury in the shop. Will never do that (or remove the blade retention safety on a band saw) again.
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Re: Woods for laminating
Good to know. I'll see if I can quickly fab up a guide like that, and play a bit.
Built: 15ft Skiff, 16ft Skiff, Modified Cheap Canoe, and an FS17.
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Re: Woods for laminating
So a different kind of lamination. Think I mentioned it before, but I might try to make rod holders. I got a different drill press today and it does a much better job, even has a handy laser guide. This is just another proof of concept for me, but worked out pretty well.
I took a 2 1/2" hole saw and a 1 7/8", the 2" left it to thin for comfort, and cut 5 rings. I sanded the edges and glued them up. After drying I sanded, or tried, on a belt sander. I think I'll rig something up later to turn the drill press into a vertical lathe of sorts for sanding. Or get close with belt sander and finish by hand. I think it came out pretty nice, once wetted out it should be real pretty. I'll have to get a flap wheel or something for the inside.
I took a 2 1/2" hole saw and a 1 7/8", the 2" left it to thin for comfort, and cut 5 rings. I sanded the edges and glued them up. After drying I sanded, or tried, on a belt sander. I think I'll rig something up later to turn the drill press into a vertical lathe of sorts for sanding. Or get close with belt sander and finish by hand. I think it came out pretty nice, once wetted out it should be real pretty. I'll have to get a flap wheel or something for the inside.
Built: 15ft Skiff, 16ft Skiff, Modified Cheap Canoe, and an FS17.
Re: Woods for laminating
Really nice wood work silentneko!! Jeff
Re: Woods for laminating
If you go to places like Wood Workers Supply you will find blade guides that will support the blade and make superior cuts.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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