Thanks.
I don't think the thickness really matters unless it is too thin/flimsy.
It would appear that the old style splash guard is only attached at 3 points. Once into the coaming bracket along the centerline, and then one at each end of the coaming at the same angle as the coaming. Countersunk holes are then plugged with dowels.
Seems too simple, but should work, although I will be adding a block instead of a bracket since the brackets are not available.
Yes it would appear that this coaming setup could be flimsy and could break easily, but if I am not epoxying it to the deck, making another would not be too bad.
MF14 - Minnesota
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- Location: Minnesota
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Re: MF14 - Minnesota
The wood type is far more important as is the grain direction in cutting. In this case, a flatsawn piece laid up and down, if you will, would be better than a vertical grained piece.
You get beauty in flatsawn as well. I have rarely seen mahogany vg fail in this type of application if you insist on vg; white oak flatsawn as well would be nearly indestructible.
The weakest would be vg here.
You get beauty in flatsawn as well. I have rarely seen mahogany vg fail in this type of application if you insist on vg; white oak flatsawn as well would be nearly indestructible.
The weakest would be vg here.
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Re: MF14 - Minnesota
Worked on the rudder tonight and have it roughed out and made sure it worked/pivoted with the standard Sunfish rudder attachments.
Since there are no good specifications of the new Sunfish rudders (maybe a licensing issue), I found a diagram that appeared to be the correct shape. I then scaled it to the correct length in Google Sketch up and then was able to take measurements/angles/etc.
Since it is not solid wood, but 1/2" and 1/4" ply laminated together I will be fairing and finishing with epoxy and then painting.
Since there are no good specifications of the new Sunfish rudders (maybe a licensing issue), I found a diagram that appeared to be the correct shape. I then scaled it to the correct length in Google Sketch up and then was able to take measurements/angles/etc.
Since it is not solid wood, but 1/2" and 1/4" ply laminated together I will be fairing and finishing with epoxy and then painting.
Last edited by walkabout_slp on Sun May 19, 2019 6:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: MF14 - Minnesota
Finished shaping dagger board and rudder.
Next steps:
Epoxy dagger board and rudder.
Attach rudder bracket/gudgeon
Cut, finisih and attach rub rail.
Splash guard
Etc
Next steps:
Epoxy dagger board and rudder.
Attach rudder bracket/gudgeon
Cut, finisih and attach rub rail.
Splash guard
Etc
Last edited by walkabout_slp on Sun May 19, 2019 6:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: MF14 - Minnesota
Very nice!
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- Location: Minnesota
Re: MF14 - Minnesota
Finished the splash guard, rudder and centerboard:
I ended up using white oak. 30 degree angle. 3.5" high in the middle (perpendicular to deck), tapered down to 1.5" at the ends.
I over drilled the pivot holes in the rudder and filled them with thickened epoxy. I will re-drill them to the correct size later.
Next steps are:
Put a few coats of marine spar varnish rudder, daggerboard, splash guard and rub rails.
Attach all the deck fittings including splashguard/gudgen etc
I ended up using white oak. 30 degree angle. 3.5" high in the middle (perpendicular to deck), tapered down to 1.5" at the ends.
I over drilled the pivot holes in the rudder and filled them with thickened epoxy. I will re-drill them to the correct size later.
Next steps are:
Put a few coats of marine spar varnish rudder, daggerboard, splash guard and rub rails.
Attach all the deck fittings including splashguard/gudgen etc
Last edited by walkabout_slp on Sun May 19, 2019 6:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: MF14 - Minnesota
She's looking great!
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Re: MF14 - Minnesota
Very nice and the grains are gorgeous!
Re: MF14 - Minnesota
Really nice work!!! Jeff
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Re: MF14 - Minnesota
I wouldn't mind having one of these for the lake!
It looks great!!
It looks great!!
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