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MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 9:42 am
by walkabout_slp
I am about to start on a Moonfish build over the Christmas break with by boys (10 and 12).

Both of my boys and I have sailed Sunfish at camps and had so much fun that we decided that we wanted to get a Sunfish or build a Sunfish. New Sunfish were too expensive. Buying a 2nd hand Sunfish seamed like a good option, but after looking at a few that were older than I am (42 years old) the amount of work to get them looking decent seemed like too much work for a 40 year old boat.

That is why I purchased the Moonfish plans. I had already purchased a 2nd hand sunfish mast/boom and sail for $100 over the summer.

Here are my supplies:
Maranti Plywood, Fiberglass tape, Resin and Hardner, Plans, filleting blend, fiberglass

Image

Should be fun.

Walkabout_slp

Re: MF14

Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 9:49 am
by walkabout_slp
First question I have is regarding what to build the boat on.

Does it matter how flat/rigid the surface is that I build the boat on?
I was going to build a "torsion box" instead of just putting some plywood on a few saw horses.

The 2 builds that are well documented with photos seem to just use plywood on saw horses, so maybe I am overthinking this.

What if anything do you build your boats on?

Re: MF14

Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 10:18 am
by jacquesmm
No need a for a fancy set up, a pair of saw horses is fine.
The panles are very flimsy when you start but as soon as you stitch a couple together, the hull will take shape and become stiffer.

Re: MF14

Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 12:57 pm
by Reid
Walkabout_slp,

I really like the Moonfish! My brother and I had a sunfish growing up and would sail that thing everywhere. It is definitely a boat your boys will enjoy!
Best of luck on your build!

Reid

Re: MF14

Posted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 9:54 am
by walkabout_slp
If I am using a 2nd hand sunfish mast which has an OD of 2 1/4", do I need to adjust the dagger board trunk?
The plans show a mast with an OD of 2" and a space of 2 1/4" for the mast to fit into.
Would I need to just change this to 2 1/4" and a 2 1/2" space for the mast to fit into?

Made some progress on my first day:
Image

Image

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 10:18 am
by jacquesmm
Yes, no problem, adjust the dimensions to fit your parts.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 1:46 pm
by Fair WX Pilot
Looks really good and a great work space to build in. I have the same saw horses as you and love them, super sturdy and very adjustable.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2017 7:53 am
by Browndog
Judging from Alan’s endorsement of your sawhorses and the picture of your shop, this will by another one of those fast and super high quality builds, like Eric, RIchard, Mike, Wouter, Peter, etc. and others around here.

Welcome to the forum and good luck on your build from a 17 year Minnesota veteran who now lives in the Deep South and doesn’t miss the Winter cold.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2017 9:45 am
by jacquesmm
We received a question by email about the daggerboard trunk panel.
The dimensions are correct but the plan and profile view are flipped.
The short side is the mast side.
The drafter flipped the profile view. it is mirrored.
Cut as shown but assemble with the short side towards the bow.

I know how it happened but nobody ever mentioned it despite many boats built. Each drawing is correct but the layout is mirrored. The drafter extracted the profile view from the wrong side view. Poor drafting technique, sorry.
I hope this is clear now.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2017 5:13 pm
by walkabout_slp
Jacques,
Thanks for the clarification. I guess I was in a rush to build and did not notice that the daggerboard trunk was flipped.

Browndog,
Yes cold weather does make boat building difficult. It has been down to -10F this week and my garage heater has been working really hard. I bet you don't have this problem in the deep south, plus you could go sailing right now. I have to wait till May before I can sail, which should be enough time to finish the boat.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2017 5:24 pm
by walkabout_slp
As Jacques mentions I was confused by the daggerboard trunk dimensions as they were presented in the plans and made a mistake.
I unfortunately started gluing up the setup before I realized my mistake. I was able to pry the the pieces off the daggerboard trunk before they had setup. I then cut the pieces for the centerboard slot and the mast assembly in the correct sizes.

Image

I was able to also finish cutting the frames.
Image

I have been cutting slightly outside of my curved lines with a jigsaw and then using a low angled block plan to get it perfect.

Next steps:
-cut the stringers
-cut lightening holes
-decide on what size inspection ports

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2017 6:43 pm
by jacquesmm
It's not your mistake, it is poor drafting, our faulty, sorry.
Other builders caught it but still, that thing should have been mirrored.
I am glad you corrected it without too much troubles.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 11:07 am
by fallguy1000
Where are you doing the build in Mn. I am building in Inver Grove Heights.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 7:41 am
by Browndog
Fallguy,

Didn’t know you were in Minnesota. I lived in South St. Paul for ten years and was very active in the SSP/Imver Grove Heights area when I ran my business there. We still have our lake home on Lac Courte Oreilles in Hayward, WI so we get up to the area every summer and occasionally at other times of year.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 9:09 am
by fallguy1000
Browndog wrote: Mon Jan 01, 2018 7:41 am Fallguy,

Didn’t know you were in Minnesota. I lived in South St. Paul for ten years and was very active in the SSP/Imver Grove Heights area when I ran my business there. We still have our lake home on Lac Courte Oreilles in Hayward, WI so we get up to the area every summer and occasionally at other times of year.
lacuteray - I fished it a few times, a classmate of mine probably still throws musky baits in one of the bays there

IGH - my official city, but we are right on the edge of Rosemount and Eagan, so my older kids went to Eagan HS, and my younger child is in Rosemount schools

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 6:46 pm
by walkabout_slp
Fallguy1000 and Browndog,
I like in St. Louis Park, MN, but the Moonfish will be used mostly at our cabin in out between Annandale and Maple Lake in Wright County. We are on Sugar Lake.

I did not get too much done this weekend as I spent too much time reading about rigging etc, but I did manage to get the forms and stringers ready to be filleted together:

Image

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 10:19 am
by tcason
Really clean and nice looking build!!

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 12:26 pm
by Jeff
I agree, very nice and clean build!! Stay warm up there!! Jeff

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 8:01 am
by walkabout_slp
Got little more done.
I wanted to cut the inspection ports holes before I started assembly, but I had to wait for the inspection ports to arrive in the mail.

Image

Next step:
Filleting the frames/stringers/daggerboard trunk.

Here is a list of rigging etc that I ordered too:
    • 2 x 5" Inspection Ports
      2 x 6" Inspection ports
      1 X Sunfish Rudder Cheek Assembly
      1 X Rudder Spring Pin Post for Sunfish
      2 X Side Strap for the Sunfish Tiller
      2 X Rudder Tension Spring for the Sunfish
      1 X Stainless Steel Gudgeon Bracket
      1 X Harken 2135 57mm Manual Ratchet Carbo Block
      1 X Harken Stand up Spring for Dinghy Main Sheet Blocks
      1 X Bow Handle for Sunfish
      1 X Ronstan Stainless Steel lined Bullseye Fairlead for the Sunfish Halyard
      6 X Stainless Steel Strap Eye
      1 X 3" Nylon Cleat for Sunfish Halyard
      2 X Ronstan Hull Drain plug
      1 X Stainless Steel Mast Step Wear Plate
      1 X Stainless Steel Spring Gate Snap Hook for mainsheet
I am not sure if this is all that I need, but it should be a good start on the rigging.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 9:42 am
by fallguy1000
What are the ports for?

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 11:35 am
by walkabout_slp
The 6" one at the back of the seating area is for a watertight storage compartment.
Another 6" one will be on the deck by the transom for access to rudder gudgeon bracket access.
The 2 5" on either side of the daggerboard trunk are there to help dry out the interior of the boat if water does get in.

I have been reading a lot on a Sunfish forum, where they restore old sunfish and it is something they really recommend so that you can dry out your boat. Also I have looked at a few old Sunfish (to buy) and the biggest issue (besides the boats being 40 years old) was that the insides of the boats were moldy and wet.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 12:03 pm
by fallguy1000
I plan a 6” port for motor bolt access and two more for aluminum bracket access in each hull. Probably one over fuel tank senders.

All the best of luck.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 4:47 pm
by walkabout_slp
Made some progress since my last post.

1. glued frames to centerboard trunk.
2. filleted frame and stringers together. 20 fillets so far.
3. rough cut side panels
4. attached two 4x8 1/2" plywood sheets together with fiberglass splice for the bottom panels

next steps:
1. cut bottom panels from the newly glued up 4x16 plywood
2. glue up side panels with fiberglass splice, then cut them to specifications.

Epoxy Fillets:
I read a lot and realized there were many ways to do these, but this is what I ended up doing:
1. sanded the area where the fillet will go as I had epoxied this prior to assembly so that I could get epoxy within the interlocking joint/slots
2. brushed on epoxy 2" either side of the joint.
3. wait 25 minutes.
4. Added 1/2" radius fillet of thickened epoxy
5. wait 25 minutes.
6. pushed glass take into corner and sides. tried not to push too hard on the fillet.
7. Brushed on a layer of epoxy over glass.

Image

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 7:43 pm
by Jeff
Good stuff Walkabout!! I just hope you are staying warm up there!!! Jeff

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 9:48 pm
by fallguy1000
Fillets n tape joins look good. I’m assuming you are hooking them again up or down; so I’d use peelply if it were me.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 7:49 am
by walkabout_slp
Fallguy, I am not sure what you mean by "hooking them up or down". Can you explain?

I also thought people used peel ply to create smooth surfaces that will be visible? Most of the fillets so far will be inside the hull, so I don't think it matters how smooth the surface will be?
Or are you referring to the use of peel ply that leaves a texture so that you can put further coats of epoxy without sanding?

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 2:17 pm
by fallguy1000
Just seems like that joint will have more fillets near, on or over it. If so, peelply is a way to make the joint easier to fillet to.

I don’t know the part you are making, but looks like hullstructure you attach later.

Pp isn’t the only way to go, but can make some things easier.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2018 4:09 pm
by walkabout_slp
More progress made.
  • Side and bottom panels cut. FG joined.
    Attached transom to frame.
    Temporarily attached side panels to transom, deck and bow.
Image

It was at this point that I realized that I made a mistake cutting the forward frames. I cut them 1" to short on the sides. I was able to fix this by laminating/gluing new frames to the existing ones.
Image

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2018 4:14 pm
by Jeff
Good fix walkabout!! Jeff

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 9:36 pm
by walkabout_slp
I cut the bottom panels and installed them.

Image
Image

I did run into a slight issue with the shape of the bottom panels. When I tried to install them they did not completely cover the bow.
I had 2 options to fix this:
1. Install them as is and use epoxy/filler to fill the 1/2 gap at the bow
2. Cut the bottom panels short (where they were touching the side panels) and then add new sections of plywood to enlarge the bottom panels.

I went with option 2 and you can see the results in the 1st photo.

Next steps are :
1. Turn the boat over
2. Remove the deck
3. Apply fillets/tape to all seems on the inside of the panel to attach the bottom panels to the side panels and also to attach the frames to the bottom panels.
4. etc

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 8:13 am
by Jeff
walkabout_slp, we will take a look at the plans and see if we can make any changes that will assist future builders. I will get back to you soon. Jeff

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 8:39 am
by walkabout_slp
Jeff,
I am not sure if I cut the bottom panels wrong or my forms were slightly larger than they should have been, but the bottom panels were definitely not the right shape in the last 12" by the bow. I did remeasure a few times so I think I got the panels the right dimensions. Cutting and re-adding pieces was not difficult, but did take time and made me wonder if I had done something wrong.

If I were to cut the bottom panels again I would have cut them oversize by an inch where I could. Obviously you cant do this mid panel otherwise you would not be able to get 2 bottom panels out of a 4/8 sheet of plywood, but can do this at the transom and the bow. I had no issues with the shape on the transom end. One could even temporarily screw the oversize bottom panels to the frames/etc and then trace the shape along the side panels and then cut the exact shape.

I used CA glue to "spot weld" the bottom panels to the side panels and then planed the bottom panels flush to the side panels where there was a slight overhang.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 9:28 am
by pee wee
That's a sweet looking hull shape, looks like it will sail well.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 9:59 am
by Bogieman
Looks really good!

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 10:03 am
by jacquesmm
Your solution to the tip of the bow is fine.
You will have lots of fiberglass overlaps there and it will be very strong.
I"ll check the plans to make certain that we show the dimensions properly.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 10:16 am
by jacquesmm
I checked and the dimensions are correct but, you may have overlooked something.
The tip of the boat is 1" wide, it is "square", not pointy.
1" wide means 1/2" each side as you wrote.
Could that be it?

Look closely at the drawing, I show it square in all plan views. If I made it sharp, it would quickly be damaged. A 1" wide tip will absorb shocks better.

BTW, the length of the panel should be 174-1/4" measured on the surface, from the corner of the transom to the corner of the tip of the bow.
I see a 6 to 8" patch in the picture.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 10:45 am
by jacquesmm
I also checked the width and they match. I wish I had a picture of the gap.
Where was the gap? At frame A, the width should be 17-1/2 or 17-3/8 in plan view, at the top.
This bothers me, I can't find the problem, everything matches.

Anyway, you did a good job fixing it, the hull looks good.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 10:54 am
by walkabout_slp
Jacques,
I think you are correct. Thank you for clarifying.

I did not take into account that the tip should be square. I must have misunderstood the dimensions from the plans and did not see the 1/2" square end on the deck panels. Also must have not understood that 1 3/8"-7/8" = 1/2" square end on the bottom panels.



I did use 3" solid wood blocks on either side of end of the center form, so I can easily cut the bow back an inch or two to make it less susceptible to damage.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 8:30 am
by walkabout_slp
I flipped the boat over and removed the temporary deck.
Then cleaned up some of the framing fillets from before.
Then I progressed onto filling and taping the internal keel seam.
Then started on filleting and taping the frames to the bottom panels.
Image

Image

Image

Next steps:
  • Lots more filleting/taping.
Questions for Jacques:
I filled the seam in the narrow gap between the daggerboard trunk frames, but did not put any fibreglass tape there. Was I meant too? Or will filleting/taping the outside of the daggerbord trunk be enough? If I should tape in this gap, is there any trick to this?
Also the last photo is of the blocking I used at the bow. I plan on cutting this back about an inch to correct the hull shape from being too pointy (my mistake).

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 10:02 am
by jacquesmm
Don't worry about cutting the tip.

I would tape all around the dagger board trunk, If I remember well that is what the plans specify. It will work without the tape but juts in case of a very brutal grounding with the dagger board down, I prefer the board to break than the trunk seams.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 10:19 am
by walkabout_slp
Jacques,
I will be taping the seam in red, but was referring to the area within the daggerboard (arrows). Seems that I will have to pre-soak the tape before I put it in this narrow gap and use a stick to push it in there as my hands are too big.

Image

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 10:28 am
by jacquesmm
Outside yes, inside no. It would be a mess to try to tape inside. Generously coat it with epoxy, some graphite in the resin would be great but that's all.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 9:50 pm
by walkabout_slp
Made some more progress.
Filleting/taping every joint was quite time consuming.
Then adding 1x1 cleats to each frame member took a while too. I realized that I did not have enough clamps to help it go faster so just did what I could, when I could.

Here are some photos:
Image
Image

Next steps:
1. epoxy coat the inside of the boat.
How many coats is suggested? I was thinking 2 coats.
Sand fiberglass tape with 60 grit to give it some grip? Then clean the inside with acetone?
2. attach deck re-enforcing to underside of deck where rigging is going to be attached and where transom access port will be.
3. epoxy coat the underside of deck.
4. attach deck to hull.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 3:48 pm
by Eric1
Looking good! :)

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Fri Mar 30, 2018 8:20 pm
by Bogieman
Your build is looking great. The amount of design structure in a boat this size is amazing too.

Bogie

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2018 2:08 pm
by das boot
To do the inside of the keel box I painted the inside of the box with resen then hung the glass into the box then using a brush on a stick I filled the weve of the glass with resen it is messey but it worked

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2018 8:53 pm
by fallguy1000
looks good!

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2018 9:00 am
by Jeff
Good progress!!! Jeff

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue Apr 17, 2018 2:10 pm
by walkabout_slp
Thank you for the kind words.

I want to attach the deck to the hull this weekend and am looking for some advice on how to do this efficiently.

My current thought process is to:
1. coat the underside/inside of the deck in unthickened epoxy (1 coat)
2. let this set up all day.
3. coat all framing members that will come in contact with deck with unthickened epoxy.
4. let this set up a little 1/2-1 hour
5. mix many small batches of thickened epoxy and spread on all framing member in step 3
6. carefully lift deck onto hull.
7. screw deck to hull.

Does this sound feasible?
Any recommendations on mixing/spreading that much thickened epoxy? Use fillable caulk tubes? Use a big bead of epoxy and let the screwing down of the deck spread the epoxy or spread the epoxy first?

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 9:12 am
by pee wee
You want to get at least two coats of epoxy (I'd probably do three for peace of mind) on all the surfaces under the deck, including the bottom of the deck. The rest of your plan sounds reasonable. I'd spread the thickened epoxy (slow hardener will let you be more thorough, a helper would be . . helpful) before putting down the deck, maybe add a bead on top to be sure any gap is bridged. Any screws you use should be removed after the epoxy sets, most builders weigh the deck down so there's not a bunch of holes that have to be filled. If you're worried about things sliding out of alignment you might use a couple screws.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2018 5:05 pm
by walkabout_slp
Made some good progress this weekend.

Here is the cockpit. I added some rounded corners and extra bracing where I will be sitting:
Image

I added some bracing for the bridle hardware 10" back from the stern. I was not sure what the correct distance should be so I made an educated guess from other sunfish photos:
Image

I did 3 coats of epoxy on the underside of the deck using a 7" roller that I cut in half. The bare patch is the area I forgot that I was cutting out for the cockpit, so decided I had better not waste epoxy on it. The diagonal bracing on the deck is so that I can attach the splash guard later.
Image

Image

I used re-fillable caulk tubes to put a nice bead of thickened epoxy along all surfaces that were to come in contact with the underside of the deck. I chose to screw the deck down instead of using weights as I wanted to ensure all surfaces had good contact with the deck. I will have to fill and sand all these holes later. I mixed 3 batches of thickened epoxy at a time (4 pumps of west system epoxy per batch), filled the tube, emptied the tube, then re-use. I was able to use the tubes 3 times before I had to throw it away.

Here is the deck attached to the hull:
Image

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2018 5:32 pm
by Jeff
Nice work!! How long have you used West Systems Epoxy? Jeff

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2018 7:11 pm
by walkabout_slp
I have only used epoxy once before when I built a cedar strip canoe 16 years ago. I believe that was West System epoxy as well. I would have been open to other epoxies, but West is readily available in minnesota.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2018 11:03 am
by Bogieman
Your build is looking really good. Nice to see another sailboat being built, not many of us on here.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 8:39 am
by walkabout_slp
What paint do you guys suggest for this small sailboat?

The boat will be stored on a boat lift (large PWC lift) over the summer, from May-October when our lake is not frozen.
So technical it won't be in the water all that time as it will be out of the water, but outside for 1/2 the year.
It will be stored indoors hanging from the rafters over the winter.

Do I need to use "bottom" paint or is that an overkill for my situation?

A previous builder of the MF14 used the following:
  • hull- marine paint over marine primer
  • deck - ordinary exterior house gloss and all-purpose exterior enamel (accent strip)
  • Coo-Var yacht & seaplane varnish
I have not decided on colors yet either.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 9:14 am
by fallguy1000
Not awlgrip. I absolutely hate their primer and have two gallons of it. It requires spraying despite the hype of it being brushable/rollable. It dries in like 10 seconds. So many brush marks...high areas where we thought we had wet edge and on a 2’ brush stroke. 500 bux to buy a headache. One helluva party for that kind of money.

I am still trying to find a good high build primer. Everyone here seems to love Systems Three. I have a gallon of it on the shelf, but only wanted a white primer on white boat, so plan to use it somewhere less prone to abrasion. Inside cabins..

Phooey on bottom paint for that boat of yours.

If you want a distinctive waterline; get waterline paint and paint it over the one paint entire hull.

Ain’t much, but finding a high build primer is still a quest for me. A few guys here added balloons to their primer to gove it some body/thickness.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 9:23 am
by fallguy1000
Epifanes makes a white epoxy primer I am trying next.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 9:25 am
by Jaysen
Bottom paint is only for boats that will live in the water. They have chems to prevent algae and such.

I'd just go with a high quality paint like EMC, S3 or even Interlux. I'd avoid the cheap stuff. On the other hand, if you don't mind the touch ups, the cheap stuff would work. Keep in mind you will get better protection of the wood by ensuring you have a 100% epoxy coverage than with paint. You may need to touch up epoxy when you touch up the paint if you are hard on the hull (I may be a classic hull abuser...).

Awl Grip seems to be ... touchy. I know a few guys here love it. A few hate it. I'm too lazy to fiddle with anything that is finicky. EMC went on easy and even looked like I tired to do a good job. If you can survive the sticker shock I'd certainly recommend if for a good top coat that even an idiot can apply well.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 10:17 am
by walkabout_slp
Thank you Fallguy and Jaysen.

The plans call for glass on bottom and sides and I plan on adding 3 coats of epoxy to all surfaces.

So the general steps are?
  • epoxy all surfaces - 3 coats
  • sand up to 100 grit
  • clean dust/grease etc (there are many threads on this in the paint forum)
  • prime entire boat
  • paint entire boat in white. If the primer is white to I need to paint as well? Or does marine paint have UV protection that the primer does not?
  • paint the hull a different color if I want a color other than white
  • paint deck accent etc with different color if desired
  • spar urathane

fallguy,
Do you get your paint locally in the twin cities? you can PM me if you don't want to mention a competitor on here.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 10:40 am
by pee wee
Check the information from the primer manufacturer about the surface prep, 100x sounds a little coarse for final finish, but it might not be.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 1:16 pm
by Jaysen
not sure what's driving 3 coast of epoxy either. now if you mean fairing compound fine, but I'm not sure what 3x epoxy is doing for you.

You need to paint over primer. Just like in a house. I'm not sure about 100 being too course. I used 80 and Lil Bit is slicker than snot on an ice cube(r)* where I took the time to do it right. I don't think the grit is as important as using a good paint.

Credit to Cracker Larry

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:42 pm
by walkabout_slp
Jaysen.
I have been told that at least 2 layers of epoxy are needed for a really waterproof surface. Also the manufacturer of the epoxy I am using (West System) suggests 3 coats in their literature.

One person replied to one of my posts and said "You want to get at least two coats of epoxy (I'd probably do three for peace of mind)".

Is three an overkill? I am conscientious that I don't to add too much weight to this small boat, but I also want to have it last.
Ralph

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:46 pm
by Jaysen
I guess they assume that you are being stingy with the first 2 coats...

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 8:43 pm
by walkabout_slp
Cut out the cockpit. Cleaned up the edges with a flush trim router bit, then a 1/2" round-over bit to try and soften the edges where your legs will be.
Also cut out the dagger board slot with the flush trim bit. So much cleaner than using a saw.

Image

White paper is covering the access ports to "try" and keep dust out of the interior of the hull.
Image

Image

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 10:17 pm
by fallguy1000
Weave fill. When you sand a lighter woven for paint prep you don’t want to cut into the glass. Stop weave fill when you will no longer feather glass.

I am using 120 before priming.

I bought the awfulgrip primer locally; topcoat from Jeff.

I won’t recommend a vendor on Jeff’s site away from Jeff.

The only reason I want white primer is if you get a minor scratch; the primer might hide.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed May 02, 2018 8:53 am
by walkabout_slp
I started to plan epoxying/taping the outside of the keel, bow, transom and chine, but realized I did not have enough tape and I should have.
After corresponding with Jacques (from Bateau) I figured out I had over taped the inside of the boat.

I was only meant to tape the inside "keel, bow, transom and chine" and not every frame to the hull. All that was required was epoxy fillets, and not epoxy fillets and tape on the frames.

This is not a big mistake as it makes for a much stronger hull although it will be slightly heavier than it should be.
I have the bi-axial tape arriving this weekend so I can resume my build.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed May 02, 2018 9:49 am
by Bogieman
That looks really nice. Makes me think I need to buy a router too.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed May 02, 2018 10:37 am
by Jeff
Nice work walkabout!!! Jeff

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon May 07, 2018 9:36 am
by smallboatrestoration
Nice build. On our plywood lapstrake we used 2 coats of West System, 2 coats of Pettit EZPrime and 3 coats of Pettit EZPoxy Sea Foam Green for the hull. For the interior we used 2 coats of Rustoleum Topside primer and 2 coats of Rustoleum Topside Oyster White (sold at our local Lowes!). Very happy with the result. You may or may not need the third coat of paint based on how the second flows out.

As for paint and colors, there are a lot of options. We have used Interlux, Pettit, TotalBoat and Rustoleum Marine Topside and have been happy with all of them. We also have used Valspar Ultra oil based enamel and liked that, available at Lowes and you can get it tinted if desired. Kirby offers classic colors. You choice will probably come down to who has the color you want and/or price point. We have been using a lot of Jamestown Distributors TotalBoat WetEdge lately, good price and free shipping. Jamestown sells and ships all brand but Kirby if you don't have a paint store local.

Tip. Stick to the same brand primer as paint as thinner unless you know different.

Image

OBTW we are working on a wooden Sunfish, http://smallboatrestoration.blogspot.com/

Image

Cheers
Kent

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon May 07, 2018 9:44 am
by smallboatrestoration
Here's a good video on painting, worth the few$ to watch: https://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/ ... gn=YouTube

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue May 08, 2018 10:05 pm
by walkabout_slp
Kent, Thanks for the paint information.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue May 08, 2018 10:12 pm
by walkabout_slp
Got some more taping done.

Deck taped.
Image

Underside taped (still need to tape the keel line)
Image

Center board slot re-enforced
Image

Still have to tape the transom, then add a layer of cloth to the bottom of boat.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue May 08, 2018 11:05 pm
by Bogieman
She's looking really good!

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed May 09, 2018 7:22 am
by Jeff
walkabout_slp, nice work!! Jeff

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed May 09, 2018 8:01 am
by OrangeQuest
I agree, it is really looking good! I don't know how everyone keeps there epoxy so even and clean looking.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed May 09, 2018 9:41 am
by Bogieman
OrangeQuest wrote: Wed May 09, 2018 8:01 am I agree, it is really looking good! I don't know how everyone keeps there epoxy so even and clean looking.
Same here! My stuff always looks like it came out of one of those crazy lawn sprinklers.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Fri May 18, 2018 7:23 pm
by walkabout_slp
I will be glassing the bottom of the hull this weekend.'

Here I added the tape down the keel line:
Image

Here I have layed the cloth out. I will smooth this out a few more times tonight and tomorrow before I add epoxy:
Image

I am unsure if I should cut the glass short of the chine or try and wrap it around the chine. At its widest the cloth will only wrap over the chine by 1", so I am leaning toward cutting is 1/2" before the chine. The Chine is already wrapped with 6" tape.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Sat May 19, 2018 11:36 am
by fallguy1000
I am surprised the glass would end so closely to the chine. It might be tricky to get an inch to lay down without peelply.

Is the bottom a single glass? If it is doubled, then you would be better off using narrower glass and overlaping the center.

Ate you using 50" glass or 38"?

If 50 and the hull is 48, I'd cut the glass at 32 or so and overlap the glass on the centerline and wrap 4-6" over the chine or to the WL (give or take).

Of course, this does use more glass, but that is how I would build.

I don't like finishing on the edges short. Too easy to ding there.

I doubt Mertens would want you to finish short as that is not typically done. I could be wrong.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Sat May 19, 2018 11:48 am
by pee wee
If your lamination schedule doesn't say to wrap the chines with more glass, I'd keep it short- easier to fair and makes for a lighter hull. Check the plans again, though; I don't know what they say and wouldn't want to steer you wrong.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 8:43 pm
by walkabout_slp
Got distracted with life (kids, vacation, cabin etc) and have not got as much done as I wanted.

I have however glassed and epoxied the entire hull. I do have a little patching etc on the sides to get it smoother.

Image

These are pre-sanding. I used bi-axial tape on the floor of the cockpit and did not fill the weave too much as I want it to stay fairly rough to provide a non-slip surface.
Image

I have started sanding the deck and sides and and are almost done. Then I will flip and sand the bottom before priming and painting.
I have also read way too much about paint etc and just need to make a decision. Will probably order some Pettit primer and EZPoxy soon, just need to decide on the color.

fallguy,
it was 50" glass, boat is 48" wide so I did wrap the glass over the chines. Plan were not explicit or I did not understand what "fibreglass bottom and sides with one layer woven fabric" meant so I erred on over doing it.

peewee,
I did not see your response till after I had wrapped the chine.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2018 7:59 am
by fallguy1000
Good work.

I don't think your nonslip idea is wise.

I would recommend you use kiwi grip on the sole or something. The trouble with trying to use a light fabric weave is you WILL quickly wear through the paint and then be damaging epoxy and glass.

I thought I could avoid varnish and now I have to sand and re-epoxy my canoe inside. Glass patch if it is coming up...

Fill the weave or use kiwigrip. You won't know to thank me unles you don't.

...Dan

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2018 8:21 am
by walkabout_slp
Thanks for the warning.
I might just fill the weave then and skip a nonslip paint as I am not buying a can for a 2'x3' area. If it proves to be too slippery I can add something next year. Since I will be sitting and not standing it is also less of an issue.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2018 9:06 am
by Bogieman
That looks great, Walkabout.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2018 9:15 am
by OrangeQuest
Could always cut and place a yoga mat down. Would make sitting more comfortable and very light weight. Could stack two pieces for where the butt print winds up.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2018 12:06 pm
by pee wee
Rather than buying KiwiGrip you could just use a non slip additive . . or sand . . or salt . . you've got options. :)

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 9:54 pm
by walkabout_slp
Been a while, but I have :
1. sanded, sanded, sanded
2. filled, sanded
3. Primed, sanded, filled (amazing how many defects you find after a coat of primer)
4. Put first coat of paint on.

Leasons learned:
Sanding:
Tedious. Can overdo-it and have to patch with epoxy. A mask is a must.
I also have a ceiling mounted air filtration system which helped keep the dust clouds down.

Primer/Paint selection:
I read so much about paints and still feel I don't know much. I watched so many videos that it really was 2nd nature when I actually had to do it.
I ended up going with Pettit EZ-Prime and Pettit EZ-Poxy from a local boat store and so far I am very happy.
These are expensive and it was difficult for me to buy. It was worse when I had to get another can of primer as one quart was not enough. Then I was going to use a generic thinner (much cheaper), but saw too many people give advice that you don't want to chance it and be cheap when finishing and possibly have the paint not work with the non-paint company thinner.
You can the same paints online cheaper than I could locally, but the shipping (to middle america) and other fees (hazmat handling fees) only make it marginally cheaper than locally.
I rolled and tipped the paint thinned by the recommended 10%.

Here are some photos:
Image
After primer.

Image
Glue up of the dagger board

Image
Image
First coat of paint.
If the 2nd coat goes on as well as the 1st, it will look amazing.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 10:11 pm
by Bogieman
Wow! That looks great. Well done.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 11:24 pm
by das boot
I used that same Pettit paint on my boat I used a foam roller to apply it there are some tricks to using it I did my boat in small sections I found it worked good but once it started to get takie you need to stop rolling it or it ends up rough if you stop at the right time and let it settel it comes out well i have re painted the boat 3 times now and it still looks good it is hard to sand but you can get through it with some work

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 7:20 am
by Jeff
Paint looks great!!! Jeff

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 9:40 am
by walkabout_slp
das boot,
You have any suggestions on sanding Pettit Ez-poxy?
How did you prevent runs on vertical surfaces?

I will be applying a 2nd coat tonight after sanding.
On the flat surfaces it dried great. I painted the bottom of the boat and about a roller width down the side only.
On the sides of the boat I have slight runs and will need to do a little more sanding.
Since I have to flip the boat to paint the deck side I will have plenty of time to correct the runs.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 9:13 pm
by fallguy1000
Preventing runs is done by reducing the mil thickness.

Using a lower nap roller; for example, or a roller that loads less.

Are you tipping off?

If you tip off; keep a clean cup by the tip brush and unload excess after each pass.

Good luck; looks great!

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 11:42 am
by walkabout_slp
fallguy,
I "rolled and tipped". Rolled with a 4" roller labelled "fine finish" from the local big box. I tried using a foam brush for tipping but ended switching to a good bristle brush as it gave better results.
I had not been removing excess paint from the brush after tipping, but will from now on.

2nd coat came out great, except for 2 spots where some insects decided to land. I will have to touch those spots up tonight before flipping the boat so I can paint the deck side.

Question:
Should I wait a few days before flipping the boat so that the paint can harden/cure more?
I am worried about the finish it being "soft" until it fully cures.
I plan on using carpet scraps over the temporary cradle I have when the boar is deck up.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 2:26 pm
by fallguy1000
Typical wait is 7 days unless you cook.

Petit might have full cure time in the tds at say 72 hours though?

Sorry. I might go like 3-4 days and work on other things vs getting the paint stuck to carpet pads.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 2:27 pm
by fallguy1000
Sometimes you might only get a drop of paint off the tipping brush, but the buildup is what does the run.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 2:43 pm
by walkabout_slp
Checked Pettit and this is all they say about cure time:
Easypoxy and EZ-Poxy can be polished and waxed after a 7 day cure time. It is especially important to allow the finish to
completely cure prior to polishing and waxing to allow all solvents remaining in the paint to flash out. Premature waxing
will trap the solvents in the paint making them soft.
Looks like I will have to wait 7 days before I can flip the boat!
Winter is coming. At this rate I will be doing my maiden voyage when the first snows fly ;-)

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 8:28 pm
by fallguy1000
Flip it Monday evening.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2018 2:02 pm
by walkabout_slp
@smallboatrestoration,
I have checked out your blog where you have restored many old Sunfish, but can't find any specifics on making a wooden splash guard.
I think you mention on one of the blog posts (http://smallboatrestoration.blogspot.co ... vnuts.html) that Sunfish had 3 types of splash guards:
1st generation: curved wooden ones
2nd generation(mustache) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ykktwSsYiIs/ ... 957ish.jpg)
3rd generation (plastic) ~$200.

I want to build a wooden one like the 2nd generation. Do you have any recommendations on making one and attaching to the deck?

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 7:55 am
by Chenier
I have the same question, but alas quite a ways from needing the answer ...

I measured a 1966 fiberglass Sunfish earlier this month. The coaming is 3" high at the centerline. "High" as in vertical height above the deck, not slant distance. 1.5" high out at the ends.

The Star Class boats used a wooden block for a center support - which may be easier than fabricating the brass fitting shown in the link.

I was thinking of epoxying the whole thing down. That doesn't seem very repairable, though - especially for a part that's sticking out there saying "hit me".

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 8:15 am
by walkabout_slp
Chenier,
Thanks for the measurements. Do you know what angle the coaming is to the deck? what thickness is it?
I too was wondering about attaching the coming to the deck. Do you have a photo of the wooden block for suppport?

This is my current idea. Angle the coaming x? degrees, with a little support where it will attach to the deck to give the screws something to screw through:

Image

Without the support piece screwing might not work, but epoxying should work?

Got a 2nd coat on the deck last night:
Image

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 9:15 am
by Chenier
Sorry, I didn't measure the cant angle or thickness. Will do that next time I get my hands on that sunfish, but it'll be a few weeks. You probably can't go too wrong with TLAR.

Now here's Step 23f in the Alcort instructions for assembling a wooden sunfish (found online):

"The coaming bracket (#63) is screwed to the deck with one 3/4" screw". The screw hole should be located 16-1/4" forward of the forward edge of the daggerboard slot along the centerline of the deck. Hold one of the coaming pieces against the casting so that the inside of the bevel comes even with the point of the casting, and attach with two 3/4" screws. Attach the second coaming piece similarly. Aligh the assembled coaming so that the ends are the same distance in from each side. Drill for a 2-1/2" screw through each of the pre-drilled holes in the ends of the coaming, using a 3/16" drill, and attach. Plugs (#27) are installed so that the grain runs in the same direction as the grain in the coaming. Trim plugs level with the coaming and touch up with varnish."

It looks like the factory pre-drilled through the coaming from one edge to the other, out near the ends. You can see the plug in the top edge of the coaming: https://sunfishclass.net/about-isco-1/

Here's the foredeck of an old Star Class racer at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum showing a wooden block in lieu of a metal casting:

Image

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 9:35 am
by walkabout_slp
Thanks.
I don't think the thickness really matters unless it is too thin/flimsy.

It would appear that the old style splash guard is only attached at 3 points. Once into the coaming bracket along the centerline, and then one at each end of the coaming at the same angle as the coaming. Countersunk holes are then plugged with dowels.

Seems too simple, but should work, although I will be adding a block instead of a bracket since the brackets are not available.
Yes it would appear that this coaming setup could be flimsy and could break easily, but if I am not epoxying it to the deck, making another would not be too bad.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Aug 01, 2018 2:12 pm
by fallguy1000
The wood type is far more important as is the grain direction in cutting. In this case, a flatsawn piece laid up and down, if you will, would be better than a vertical grained piece.

You get beauty in flatsawn as well. I have rarely seen mahogany vg fail in this type of application if you insist on vg; white oak flatsawn as well would be nearly indestructible.

The weakest would be vg here.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Aug 01, 2018 10:19 pm
by walkabout_slp
Worked on the rudder tonight and have it roughed out and made sure it worked/pivoted with the standard Sunfish rudder attachments.
Image

Since there are no good specifications of the new Sunfish rudders (maybe a licensing issue), I found a diagram that appeared to be the correct shape. I then scaled it to the correct length in Google Sketch up and then was able to take measurements/angles/etc.

Since it is not solid wood, but 1/2" and 1/4" ply laminated together I will be fairing and finishing with epoxy and then painting.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 9:17 pm
by walkabout_slp
Finished shaping dagger board and rudder.
Image

Next steps:
Epoxy dagger board and rudder.
Attach rudder bracket/gudgeon
Cut, finisih and attach rub rail.
Splash guard
Etc

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 9:52 pm
by Bogieman
Very nice!

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2018 8:39 am
by walkabout_slp
Finished the splash guard, rudder and centerboard:

Image

Image

Image

Image

I ended up using white oak. 30 degree angle. 3.5" high in the middle (perpendicular to deck), tapered down to 1.5" at the ends.
I over drilled the pivot holes in the rudder and filled them with thickened epoxy. I will re-drill them to the correct size later.

Next steps are:
Put a few coats of marine spar varnish rudder, daggerboard, splash guard and rub rails.
Attach all the deck fittings including splashguard/gudgen etc

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2018 9:38 am
by Bogieman
She's looking great!

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2018 9:53 am
by fallguy1000
Very nice and the grains are gorgeous!

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2018 10:46 am
by Jeff
Really nice work!!! Jeff

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2018 7:40 pm
by Knoxville_Jay
I wouldn't mind having one of these for the lake!

It looks great!!

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 11:41 am
by walkabout_slp
While I was at the lake and NOT working on the boat, I did manage to put the boat lift in the water.

Image

This a PWC lift that I used for a prior sailboat (Chrysler Mutineer) and my small fishing boat (14' Alumacraft)

Does anyone have suggestions for covers?
I have looked at a bunch of Sunfish covers, but I don't think they will work as the Moonfish is 5" longer than the sunfish and I am reluctant to buy one only to have to return it.
I could go without a cover and just bail the water in the cockpit each week. Or I could install a auto bailer in the bottom of the cockpit
Or I could fabricate a tarp to cover the cockpit.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2018 7:28 pm
by fallguy1000
Cockpit tarp.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2018 10:34 am
by walkabout_slp
Worked on mounting the rudder etc.

Tiller:
44" white oak, 1 3/4" on rudder end, 1" on cockpit end, 3/4" thick. Tiller does not go all the way to the cockpit.
I driller and attached the tiller on the rudder end first. Then figured out how far above the deck I wanted the tiller to be. Then drilled the other tiller bolt. My tiller is about 3" above the deck. This is to hopefully prevent the tiller rubbing on the deck when under pressure.

Tiller extension:
36" long, 3/4" x 3/4".
Attached to the tiller using a SS universal joint (Racelite Tiller Extension Swivel )
I researched what lengths other sailors suggested and too advice to go long, knowing that I can easily shorten it later.
I will be adding a clip to hold the extension on the tiller when not in use.
Old style sunfish tillers just had a through bolt. Many people convert these to use newer style battle stick etc with a universal joint. I chose to make my own.

I hope to attach all the hardware/trim/etc by the end of the week and maybe launch this weekend.
Image

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2018 10:46 am
by fallguy1000
Super!

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2018 12:23 pm
by Jeff
Nice work walkabout_slp!!! Jeff

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2018 5:59 pm
by Chenier
Excellent progress - congratulations!

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Sat Aug 25, 2018 9:55 pm
by walkabout_slp
Got her on the water, but could not sail her as there was no wind this evening.
I towed her over from the boat landing as we have a steep shoreline and steps.
Image

If the weather permits I will be sailing sunday.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2018 12:04 am
by fallguy1000
Super. Best of luck.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2018 7:25 am
by Jeff
Good luck with the wind on Sunday walkabout!!!! She does look nice on the lift!!! Jeff

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2018 6:03 pm
by walkabout_slp
Went sailing for a few hours today. Wind was barely blowing, but my boys and I did manage to take our maiden voyages.
Image

I will me shortening the tiller about 6 inches though as I could not swing it fully when sitting at the back of the cockpit.

She sailed well with me and a single kid at the time. Might be ok with 3 in the boat, but did not want to chance it to start.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2018 9:01 pm
by fallguy1000
Great looking sail!

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 7:41 am
by Jeff
Congratulations!! Jeff

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 9:04 am
by pee wee
Looks great, and light wind for your first outing sounds good.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2018 2:33 pm
by Bogieman
Well done 8)

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 5:14 pm
by walkabout_slp
I have now put on about 5 hours of sailing and the boat is performing as well as I could hope. Trying to get in as many hours as I can before it gets cold up here in Minnesota.

A few observations:

bailer:
After getting swamped by a wave from a big motor boat and 1/2 the cockpit filling up with water I realized that you SHOULD ALWAYS have a hand bailer. I am thinking of adding an auto-bailer, but the idea of drilling a hole in the hull through the cockpit floor scares me a little. Anyone have experiences with auto-bailers?

mast hole fills up with water:
Your mast hole will fill up with water while sailing or being stored deck up outside. I have read that this is OK. As long as there are no cracks/holes to let the water into the hull you should be ok. I might add a wooden deck plate with a round hole in it for the mast so that I can put a plug/stopper in it when stored. Right now the hole is square so it is difficult to plug. I get the water out with a towel after sailing.

sailing with 2 adults works well
I have sailed with both my boys (one at a time) and with my wife and it seems to be comfortable. I have found that in lighter winds the passenger can sit with the daggerboard between their legs and their back to the mast. This does require you to have the sail/boom higher up. If they try to sit in the cockpit they get in the way of the mainsheet.
Sailing alone works well too.

hiking strap:
I installed a hiking strap which helped a lot when sailing alone in stronger winds.

sail/mast:
I bought my rigging 2nd hand. I was told it was from a Sunfish. The dimensions of the booms etc were the same Sunfish rigging. I paid $100 for the mast, spars, sail, mainsheet and halyard which is a great deal (I think they are over $600 new) Turns out the sail is actually a Super Sailfish sail and not a Sunfish sail, but apparently they are the same size.
This rigging is probably 30 years old, but works great. I did have to patch one small hole in the sail. Since the hole was in a red section I used inexpensive red Tyvek (house wrap) tape. New sails range from less than $200 to just under $500 and are readily available.
I replaced the mainsheet and halyard right away.
I also added a mast cleat so that I can tie the halyard to the cleat on the mast, then have it go through the bullseye fairlead, back over the gooseneck, back through the bullseye fairleadand then to a cleat on the deck. I read that this puts much less stress on your deck and possibly is safer to prevent loosing the mast if you happen to completely capsize.

paddle
I carry a cheap plastic paddle on the boat just in case the wind dies. I have had to us it once near my dock. I shove it under halyard line by the mast so it is out of the way. There are plenty of boats on our lake, but the idea of asking for a tow does not appeal to be. I also tied a dock line to the bow handle just in case I do need a tow.

cover:
Remember I was debating on what to do about storing the boat on the boat lift. I could not use a standard Sunfish cover as the Moonfish is a few inches longer so they won't work
Well I just got a 5'x8' tarp and some bungees. Tapr is bungeed down over the cockpit, splashgaurd and mast hole. Then the boat is tied down to the boat lift over the tarp. Working great so far and not too much water is able to make its way under the tarp.

rigging the boat
I don't store the mast/boom/sail on the boat, but store it in a shed. It is really light, even my 13 year old can carry it 160 feet without issues.
Actually installing the mast, raising the sail etc only takes a few minutes. I takes me much longer the rig my windsurfer. Check out video on youtube.

winter storage
I have not figured this out yet, but think I will be hanging the boat deckside down from the rafters of a shed at my cabin. I will post photos later when I do this.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 8:23 am
by Chenier
Great to hear she's sailing wonderfully!

A friend who has been hanging around sailboats all his life recommended the Andersen auto bailer to me. Installing it is more than "drilling a hole", but it looks like it'll create a more positive seal when closed than the float-ball style that the Sunfish uses. I have been warned, though, to watch my feet around that thing - it can hurt if you step on it.

Regarding paddle: doesn't the daggerboard work as a paddle, or is it too short?

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 8:45 am
by walkabout_slp
Chennier,
thanks for the auto-bailer info. I will check them out.

I never thought of using the dagger board as a paddle. Good idea.

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2018 1:29 am
by jwassdo
This guy makes custom covers that are out of this world. He's local for me which is a big advantage but if you stayed with the plans, you can probably send him the plans and he can do something for you. I brought him my rb12 in person and he created a work of art but you may want to call him and see what he says.

I never thought I'd get excited about a boat cover...

Betterboatcovers.com
(941) 313-1077
Sarasota/bradenton area, Florida

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Sat Oct 06, 2018 3:10 pm
by walkabout_slp
It is that time of the year. I hung the boat for the winter. With snow already in Minnesota my sailing is done for the year.

Thank you all for your help and encouragement during my build.

Image

Re: MF14 - Minnesota

Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2018 11:16 pm
by jwassdo
You must have great restraint at not using too much epoxy. That board must be light weight for you to get it overhead like that! Clever storage solution!


Jeff