FS14- Bayou City Boat
- OrangeQuest
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Re: FS14- Bayou City Boat
Wow! The motor is here. It was crazy that the onlineoutboards were out of stock of most of their Suzuki outboards a few weeks ago. And it was about a week from order to delivery of the motor. What is even more crazy is that there are no Suzuki dealers near me. Closes is in Kemah 70 miles away or so and don't have this motor for the price I paid.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne
A. A. Milne
Re: FS14- Bayou City Boat
Nice OQ!!! Jeff
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Re: FS14- Bayou City Boat
Another strange thing is hoisting the motor instructions or lacking thereof. Watched a few utube videos, looked for instructions, but they never show how to hoist or attachment points. They all when from one shot of the motor in the crate to motor magical being on the boat. My guess is they just pick the 168lb motor up with friends.
I made a sling and shackled to the motor mount points, then a ratchet strap to the back of the motor to control tilt. Used a "come along" to lift the motor from the crate to the back of the boat. Marked everything, like motor mount holes, where to put steering cable holes and then control cable.
While figuring where the control cables go, I removed the cowling for the first time. There is a hoist eyelet in the center of the motor! BTW, no info on where the cables attach on the motor. But I can see the points tucked under the air intake. Would be nice if Suzuki gave a diagram of the distances the tiller arm moves with the furnished draglink, location of the mounting holes and so on. Few years back I contacted Suzuki and they emailed me the mount hole locations, but you get nothing with the motor.
Well, with the locations of things for the motor now known, I can now start finishing up on the boat, when I have time. At the moment we are busy with making a living and a pinched nerve in my butt area making it painful to stand or sit. Anytime I can, I just laydown flat.
I made a sling and shackled to the motor mount points, then a ratchet strap to the back of the motor to control tilt. Used a "come along" to lift the motor from the crate to the back of the boat. Marked everything, like motor mount holes, where to put steering cable holes and then control cable.
While figuring where the control cables go, I removed the cowling for the first time. There is a hoist eyelet in the center of the motor! BTW, no info on where the cables attach on the motor. But I can see the points tucked under the air intake. Would be nice if Suzuki gave a diagram of the distances the tiller arm moves with the furnished draglink, location of the mounting holes and so on. Few years back I contacted Suzuki and they emailed me the mount hole locations, but you get nothing with the motor.
Well, with the locations of things for the motor now known, I can now start finishing up on the boat, when I have time. At the moment we are busy with making a living and a pinched nerve in my butt area making it painful to stand or sit. Anytime I can, I just laydown flat.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne
A. A. Milne
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Re: FS14- Bayou City Boat
Flipped the boat onto a small flat trailer so I could put 4 oz glass on the sides of the hull. After very light fairing, applied thin coat of neat epoxy. After it set long enough, so it was touchable, I flipped the glass over onto it and coated it with neat epoxy. The bottom has been coated with graphite, rough sanded with 80 grit and the whole hull will soon be ready for primer. Once the hull is painted, it will be flipped, and the interior completed. We are hoping it to splash before the end of the year.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne
A. A. Milne
Re: FS14- Bayou City Boat
Nice OQ!! Good to hear from you!! Jeff
- OrangeQuest
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Re: FS14- Bayou City Boat
Thanks Jeff!
Since I slapped the glass on the side and followed with a thin coat of neat epoxy, this combo is hard to sand! Compared to sanding the graphite bottom, which is a piece of cake compared to straight epoxy. That tells me that glass and neat epoxy is going to be a stronger bottom finish than the graphite. The whole hull will be painted anyway.
I am getting about 2.5 to 3 square feet per 5" sanding disk on the neat epoxy and did the whole half the bottom (graphite) with one disk.
Since I slapped the glass on the side and followed with a thin coat of neat epoxy, this combo is hard to sand! Compared to sanding the graphite bottom, which is a piece of cake compared to straight epoxy. That tells me that glass and neat epoxy is going to be a stronger bottom finish than the graphite. The whole hull will be painted anyway.
I am getting about 2.5 to 3 square feet per 5" sanding disk on the neat epoxy and did the whole half the bottom (graphite) with one disk.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne
A. A. Milne
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Re: FS14- Bayou City Boat
That's odd. I had the opposite experience with my recent rework of Lil Bit. What ratio of graphite to epoxy did you use?
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Re: FS14- Bayou City Boat
2.5 to 3 sq ft is impressive. What grit are you using? I don't get near that, although I know that I change sandpaper more often than I need toOrangeQuest wrote: ↑Fri Jul 22, 2022 12:21 pm Thanks Jeff!
Since I slapped the glass on the side and followed with a thin coat of neat epoxy, this combo is hard to sand! Compared to sanding the graphite bottom, which is a piece of cake compared to straight epoxy. That tells me that glass and neat epoxy is going to be a stronger bottom finish than the graphite. The whole hull will be painted anyway.
I am getting about 2.5 to 3 square feet per 5" sanding disk on the neat epoxy and did the whole half the bottom (graphite) with one disk.
Boats restored: 1973 Glastron CV16, 1990 Proline 17 CC, 1993 Bass Boat
Boats built: custom 15ft flat bottom skiff, Soon-to-be-built TX18 (originally dborecky's build)
Boats built: custom 15ft flat bottom skiff, Soon-to-be-built TX18 (originally dborecky's build)
- OrangeQuest
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Re: FS14- Bayou City Boat
80 grit sandpaper that you can tell when it slows down how fast it is roughing up the surface it is time to change. I am just using a cheap orbital sander that I leave the dust bag off, pointing the exhaust away from me. You can see the dust flying out the exhaust port and then is blown away with my 40" box fan.wpstarling wrote: ↑Fri Jul 22, 2022 1:42 pm
2.5 to 3 sq ft is impressive. What grit are you using? I don't get near that, although I know that I change sandpaper more often than I need to
I do think there is to much graphite in the mix.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne
A. A. Milne
- OrangeQuest
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Re: FS14- Bayou City Boat
Well, laid the last of the glass on the outside of the hull yesterday. Will rough sand it and do a little fairing, to fill what little weave there is on 3.5oz cloth, on that last side and neat coat the graphite bottom and final prep for primer. A two-part primer that will cover the bottom and the sides to the rub rails, then a poly top coat.
I have one last hole for the 1-1/8" overflow and debating with myself for the location for the ClearVü/SideVü transducer. Mounting it on the transom, easiest method, the SideVü beam maybe blocked by the outboard. Other side of the debate is to cut away the back part of the skeg, use the trolling motor mount as a template to make a plywood mounting base the transducer mounts to. The plywood base is then glued to the hull. The wood base would extend to the transom to cover the transducer wire, which then runs up the transom like a standard transducer mount would. No holes would be drilled into the hull bottom.
Most of me favors the mount it to the hull method but part of me argues that if I ever need to replace the transducer for whatever reason, it would be hard. Nothing a multi-tool can't handle. I also argue that it would get hit a lot, but so does the ones mounted on the transom and as big as this one is, someone would think it is a step and step on it to get in the boat.
I have one last hole for the 1-1/8" overflow and debating with myself for the location for the ClearVü/SideVü transducer. Mounting it on the transom, easiest method, the SideVü beam maybe blocked by the outboard. Other side of the debate is to cut away the back part of the skeg, use the trolling motor mount as a template to make a plywood mounting base the transducer mounts to. The plywood base is then glued to the hull. The wood base would extend to the transom to cover the transducer wire, which then runs up the transom like a standard transducer mount would. No holes would be drilled into the hull bottom.
Most of me favors the mount it to the hull method but part of me argues that if I ever need to replace the transducer for whatever reason, it would be hard. Nothing a multi-tool can't handle. I also argue that it would get hit a lot, but so does the ones mounted on the transom and as big as this one is, someone would think it is a step and step on it to get in the boat.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne
A. A. Milne
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