Jib track question

[new to sail]

I'm not sure if this will be a problem. Can the track bow to match the deck without interfering with the operation of the slides?
Would it better if I add enough fairing compound to make up the difference or cut a pierce of epoxied tapered wood and shim it so it says level?



Thanks for any input,
Rick

[terrulian]

Slides aren't all the same, so order the ones you want and see if they'll work on a bent track. It doesn't look like much of a bend so on a small boat with small cars my guess is they'd be OK. Generally, you don't adjust the jib cars when there's tension on them, so if they are free enough to move to the next pinhole you'll be fine. In fact, you don't need tracks at all for a simple boat that you use the same headsail for all the time. If you have a working jib and also a genoa, you'll need to adjust the lead for each sail. Also, if you want to adjust the leads for different conditions, this can be done with the leads; move them aft heavy air and forward for light air:


But this is more a racer thing. Or an OCD thing.

[new to sail]

Thank you for the explanation I wasn’t sure how the tracks worked since I’ve never sailed but I was just following the building plans.
Rick

[Jaysen]

Right about the time I'm starting to think I know a little but Tony goes and shoots my brain will a couple barrels of double loaded buck shot.

So Tony, if I'm looking at a laser this isn't "that big a deal" given the < 14' size of the boat and the limited sail plan, but if I'm looking at say... a SB18, this would be critical given the larger sail plan and the level of stupid I bring to the table (regarding big wind). Do I understand that correctly?

If i'm running multiple sail cuts on the laser or in highly competitive racing of the laser then the story may be different. yes?

[terrulian]

Not sure I completely understand the question. A Laser doesn't have a jib so jib leads would be moot. Also, Laser class rules are very specific as this is an internationally raced one-design boat so you can't vary things all that much.

As to the SB 18, we're still talking a small boat, but it has a headsail. You'd do fine with one jib and a fixed fairlead, and one reef point in the main. The sailmaker will often put a reinforcement on the clew that you can align your lead to for a median setting. You can see what I'm referring to towards the end of this short video of my Catalina 22:
[youtube]https://youtu.be/0chPn3ZR_6A[/youtube]
If you want a Genoa, then one more fixed lead would do. There are an uncountable number of websites discussing jib sheet leads and jib trim if you want to really bury yourself in technicalities.

[Jaysen]

I think it’s the 4000 series that has an spi and forestay. Maybe I’ve got the boat wrong though.

My interest may be a bit less about jibs and more about loose footed sprit sails. I’ve noticed that Lil Bit is very sensitive to the sheet angle. That’s part of why the bridle came into being. With the current set up I can move the sheet block forward and backward easily. I wasn’t able to get the block over the rail like I wanted, but that fore/aft adjustability made significant difference.

As too the SB18, I’m pretty early I’m the planning. I’m not sure there’s a good reason, but I’d like to set it up as a better than good performance but with the option to be comfortably single handed for a weekend.

I know, I know. Get on a boat and learn. I will, I promise. Just trying to accumulate ideas for planning.

We now return you to your original thread topic...

[Evan_Gatehouse]

It's no problem. Commonly done on bigger boats with sheer