GF16 Kansas build
- OrangeQuest
- Very Active Poster
- Posts: 3948
- Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2018 1:14 pm
- Location: Houston, Texas
Re: GF16 Kansas build
Hope things work out well. I always thought fairing compound only took 4 hours are so to be ready to sand again?
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne
A. A. Milne
- topwater
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
- Posts: 3131
- Joined: Tue Oct 30, 2007 6:27 pm
- Location: Port Charlotte
- Location: Florida
Re: GF16 Kansas build
Quick fair for hand sanding in 4 hours depending on temp.
Novi 23 finally launched !
Re: GF16 Kansas build
Fears confirmed....
I must have not paid close enough attention to mixing the last batch of fairing compound as it was still tacky and soft after 48 hours.
So, before getting ready for work this morning, started with a sharp wood chisel and some acetone. It's going to take some time to get it all off. Luckily it's not a large area and the 2nd coat of fairing compound had cured up nicely.
Top has it right, this is the Bateau marin epoxy with their fairing blend mixed in. Takes longer than 4 hours for sanding. I'll probably do what others have done and use the Bateau fairing compound for the first couple of layers and switch to Quick Fair for the final coats. And, of course, pay more attention to the mixing ratios........
I must have not paid close enough attention to mixing the last batch of fairing compound as it was still tacky and soft after 48 hours.
So, before getting ready for work this morning, started with a sharp wood chisel and some acetone. It's going to take some time to get it all off. Luckily it's not a large area and the 2nd coat of fairing compound had cured up nicely.
Top has it right, this is the Bateau marin epoxy with their fairing blend mixed in. Takes longer than 4 hours for sanding. I'll probably do what others have done and use the Bateau fairing compound for the first couple of layers and switch to Quick Fair for the final coats. And, of course, pay more attention to the mixing ratios........
Eric (aka, piperdown)
"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain
"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain
Re: GF16 Kansas build
Cracker Larry is probably shaking his head and wishing he had an internet connection in heaven
Eric (aka, piperdown)
"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain
"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain
Re: GF16 Kansas build
No pics (yet) but since my last update.....
Got all the uncured fairing compound off the front transom. Let me tell you that was a stone cold bi*ch! Used a wood chisel to remove as much as I could, with plenty of acetone on hand. Then many, many, many sheets of sandpaper on the RO. Then the wood chisel again. Over the course of 3 days probably about 5 hours worth of work. Hard lesson about making sure you are exact with measuring epoxy.
Next built a dam around the last 4' of the chine and rear transom. Still working on sharpening the sides but the transom looks good. Note, use packing tape to seal the cardboard to the boat, not duct tape! I covered the cardboard with packing tape and it didn't stick but some epoxy got down to the duct tape and fused together Back out with the wood chisel to remove it. Almost as much of a chore as the front transom
Lastly got the port runner glued and glassed. Off just a bit on the profile and length but I'll fix that easily enough. Finally the bottom is entirely coated in glass so I can pull it out into the driveway and hose it off.
Next up is a decision on the splash rails. The issue is the port side top shear is planed down but I forgot to do the starboard side If I try and follow the shear it won't match the other side. Trying to figure if I could measure from the bottom hull down but I'm not sure that would work. Any thoughts? I could just do what seaslug did and finish the bottom, then flip and use his method using a 3/4" router bit and a template.
Got all the uncured fairing compound off the front transom. Let me tell you that was a stone cold bi*ch! Used a wood chisel to remove as much as I could, with plenty of acetone on hand. Then many, many, many sheets of sandpaper on the RO. Then the wood chisel again. Over the course of 3 days probably about 5 hours worth of work. Hard lesson about making sure you are exact with measuring epoxy.
Next built a dam around the last 4' of the chine and rear transom. Still working on sharpening the sides but the transom looks good. Note, use packing tape to seal the cardboard to the boat, not duct tape! I covered the cardboard with packing tape and it didn't stick but some epoxy got down to the duct tape and fused together Back out with the wood chisel to remove it. Almost as much of a chore as the front transom
Lastly got the port runner glued and glassed. Off just a bit on the profile and length but I'll fix that easily enough. Finally the bottom is entirely coated in glass so I can pull it out into the driveway and hose it off.
Next up is a decision on the splash rails. The issue is the port side top shear is planed down but I forgot to do the starboard side If I try and follow the shear it won't match the other side. Trying to figure if I could measure from the bottom hull down but I'm not sure that would work. Any thoughts? I could just do what seaslug did and finish the bottom, then flip and use his method using a 3/4" router bit and a template.
Eric (aka, piperdown)
"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain
"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain
-
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
- Posts: 8939
- Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:23 am
- Location: Kasilof, Alaska
Re: GF16 Kansas build
I think I would do it like Seaslug did. He seems to have a bunch of slick tricks
If it makes you feel any better I used some poly fairing compound on the last boat. I have never had any problems with epoxy but I ended up with 21 feet of poly crap I had to remove. Chisel, grinder and cussing for a few days
If it makes you feel any better I used some poly fairing compound on the last boat. I have never had any problems with epoxy but I ended up with 21 feet of poly crap I had to remove. Chisel, grinder and cussing for a few days
Re: GF16 Kansas build
Sorry PiperDown but it happens to the best of us!!!! Jeff
Re: GF16 Kansas build
I'm leaning towards Seaslug's method. I just don't see any other way until that shear is planed down. That slight curvature on the shear is not the same as the bottom hull.Fuzz wrote: ↑Thu May 16, 2019 2:24 am I think I would do it like Seaslug did. He seems to have a bunch of slick tricks
If it makes you feel any better I used some poly fairing compound on the last boat. I have never had any problems with epoxy but I ended up with 21 feet of poly crap I had to remove. Chisel, grinder and cussing for a few days
About the only difference I'll do it make a couple extra passes to be able to glass it in place. The rivers I've been on...well, I have a tendency to "bump" into things. Rather have a bit of extra protection on the splash rails.
I've only read about poly. But the whole wax, no wax, laminating, gel coat, etc., is a whole can of worms I'm not going to touch without some simple experiments on scrap stuff
Thanks Jeff. I wish I could blame it on a distraction or beer but it was just me not paying attention
I noticed I still have a sleight low spot that goes the width of the bottom. It's about 14" from the transom and goes about 10". I'm assuming it's okay to use fairing compound to fill that 1/8" gap, let it cure, sand a bit and continue on with fairing the rest of the hull bottom from there? Will be rolling on graphite epoxy over the top of that, well, the whole bottom up to 4" above the chine.
Eric (aka, piperdown)
"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain
"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain
-
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
- Posts: 8939
- Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:23 am
- Location: Kasilof, Alaska
Re: GF16 Kansas build
If it were me I would use something a little tougher than fairing compound to fill low spots on the bottom. That sounds like a small enough area it might not make much difference though.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Doug N and 19 guests