In your defense, you did call it a "Stop and Start Project".
GV10 Stop and Start Project
- Jaysen
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Re: GV10 Stop and Start Project
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Re: GV10 Stop and Start Project
Was welding some stainless last weekend and decided to do a little side project. For those days when I just can't decide between fishing and riding.
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- gstanfield
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Re: GV10 Stop and Start Project
It’s good to see that I’m not the only one taking a bike fishing!
Previous builds: FL14, NC16, and others...
Current build: FL14 (+10%)
Current build: FL14 (+10%)
Re: GV10 Stop and Start Project
I mentioned in my first post of the thread that I have an old 10hp outboard and that influenced me in my boat choice. When I first started talking about building a boat the old fella down the street said he has the perfect thing for me and gave me an outboard. It is a 1978 (one year older than me) Mercury 110 9.8hp. It has a 17.3" shaft so the transom is too tall, but I want to see if the engine runs before I cat the transom to height, otherwise I would buy a 20" shaft o/b.
Tried a few weeks ago and couldn't get it started. Plugs have spark and engine is so simple that it has to be either spark or fuel, fuel in tank was new so I ordered a carb rebuild kit. Fitted the kit and rebuilt the carb one evening this week and tried it all out today. Now running well and I have got the tuning as good as I can without taking her out and trying wot.
Was initially running very rich hence the oil leakage all around the bottom unit. This isn't so much oil leakage as half burnt oil from an extremely rich mixture.
As shown in the pictures the top of the anti-cavitation plate is 58-60mm too high. I have heard everything from 10mm above the keel height to 10mm below the keel height as the correct height. Since the engine water intake is on the underside of the anti-cavitation plate I don't want to put it too high and overheat the engine. I'm thinking of cutting back 65mm to put the anti-cavitation plate 5mm below the keel. What do you all suggest?
Tried a few weeks ago and couldn't get it started. Plugs have spark and engine is so simple that it has to be either spark or fuel, fuel in tank was new so I ordered a carb rebuild kit. Fitted the kit and rebuilt the carb one evening this week and tried it all out today. Now running well and I have got the tuning as good as I can without taking her out and trying wot.
Was initially running very rich hence the oil leakage all around the bottom unit. This isn't so much oil leakage as half burnt oil from an extremely rich mixture.
As shown in the pictures the top of the anti-cavitation plate is 58-60mm too high. I have heard everything from 10mm above the keel height to 10mm below the keel height as the correct height. Since the engine water intake is on the underside of the anti-cavitation plate I don't want to put it too high and overheat the engine. I'm thinking of cutting back 65mm to put the anti-cavitation plate 5mm below the keel. What do you all suggest?
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Re: GV10 Stop and Start Project
I might just go ahead and launch it and see what happens. As long as you are getting enough cooling water the worst that will happen, hopefully, is you get cavitation. And you should be able to tell just how much the motor needs to come down instead of guessing at it.
Re: GV10 Stop and Start Project
Great minds!gstanfield wrote: ↑Fri Oct 30, 2020 8:16 am It’s good to see that I’m not the only one taking a bike fishing!
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
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Re: GV10 Stop and Start Project
Agree with Fuzz. Some boats ride ok with the outboard quite a bit higher than the transom.
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