Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

The plans call for three strips of 1/4 plywood laminated together to form the rubrail. I have a couple questions on that..

1) The top of the gunnel is not formed from a straight cut but has a curve. Will the 1/4" PW bend widthwise to fit this curve??

2) The hull is 14'. Am I supposed to use 8' pieces to create the rubrail? If so, do I just stagger the joints for each layer? Do I mirror the joints on the other side to keep symetry?

3) Is it possible to get a 14' length piece of solid wood and use that??

While I am asking, I am thinking of mouting the breasthooks about 3/16ths - 1/4" above the gunnel and using the belt sander to create a rounded or slightly domed breasthook. Would this work without sacrificing any hull integrity using 1/2" plywood or should I look at using 1/2+ PW. Or is it simply a dumb idea?

Sorry for the amatuer questions, I am just trying to plan my steps carefully. The rubrail is the part that has me vexed so far..

I believe that there is picture of our Chenoa prototype rubrail in the building notes. Yes it works . . .

A solid piece may not twist and bend. and is not as strong as a laminated rubrail.
Keep it simple, use the 3 layers we specify.

I used 3/4" x 1 1/2" hemlock for my rubrails and I thought they followed the curve of the gunnel nicely (with many clamps). I think it is easier to glue and finish/sand than a built up plywood rub rail.http://gallery.bateau2.comdisplayimage. ... 1076&pos=2

What model boat is that??

The gallery says V12. That chine looks right to support that.

A solid rubrail works on some boats, it depends on the shape of the sheer.
Look at your developed panel shape, sheer side. If the line is straight or close, solid wood will bend.
In all cases, it will not be as strong as laminated wood.

I did my rubrail on my V12 almost per directions. To dress it up a little I substituted the last and outer layer of 1/4" plywood with a strip of mahoganey. A 1/4" strip of solid mahoganey bends very nicely. I used the idea from one of the other folks about cheap clamps - used a chunk of scrap 3" black plastic pipe and made myself about 40 of these "poor man's clamps". They don't substitute totally for real clamps, but when you put the rubrail on you need a clamp every 6" or so.

mcpapa wrote:I used the idea from one of the other folks about cheap clamps - used a chunk of scrap 3" black plastic pipe and made myself about 40 of these "poor man's clamps".

I'll add to this that you can adjust the clamping pressure by making the clamps longer or shorter. Using a 1/2" length of the pipe for the clamp results in a clamp with very low holding force, but works good if you just want light pressure on a cleat or something. To make my rubrail bend around my hull, I used 3" long sections of pipe.

You'll also want to be a bit careful about the sharp edges that these clamps get when you cut them out. Sharp edges mean scratches and dents in the wood. For the price, they work GREAT, but have some drawbacks.

jason

I will just go the plywood route as I still have some left ot make the strips.

Now do I just stagger the 8' sections so the seams do not show up in the same place?? Do I just butt them against each other when gluing them?

I'd stagger them to ensure a more rounded, smoother look.

Butt them right up against each other and fill the gap with glue thickened a bit more with woodflour so it's like filleting material.

One last question on this topic as tonight I am applying the rubrail.. Can I lay the layers consecutively without them drying or do I have to wait until the individual layer drys before I can lay the next?? Thanks..

I let each layer dry before adding the next. Worked out well for me.

Chris
OD18

If you're not using temp screws to hold them together, then I'd let each dry too. Otherwise you run the risk of a middle layer sliding out of place.

If you clamp it hard, then you'll squeeze out the glue and epoxy-made glue bonds better with minimal pressure.