Homemade wooden pushpits?

[Bogieman]

I am considering making my own wooden pushpits for my AD16 instead of buying ones made of stainless steel. I have two ideas on how to do it. First would be to cut out the patterns for the pushpits and then epoxy laminate three 3/8" pieces of marine ply together to make the shape. I could round all the edges and then glass over the long pieces.

My second idea would be to use thick wooden dowels wrapped in fiberglass. I could make an "L" shaped bracket at the top and bottom with corresponing holes for the dowels to slip into. The bottom backet could then be glued to the seat top and then re-enforced w/ ss screws/ backing plate.

These pushpits need to be strong / safe as life lines with be attached to them. The lifelines will surround the cockpit.

The approx shape of the pushpits can be seen on the AD16 plans page.


What are your thoughts on this idea?

[Capt UB]

As a Offshore sailor (it's been a few years now), I have tied everything to the stern rail/pushpit/tafe rail..... with mixed results, good and bad! The loading is the key, how much pull/pressure is going to be called on? A body falling overboard, a dingy (not smart in open waters) or kids in tubes?

It has been sometime since I heard someone use Pushpit!

[Bogieman]

As a Offshore sailor (it's been a few years now), I have tied everything to the stern rail/pushpit/tafe rail..... with mixed results, good and bad! The loading is the key, how much pull/pressure is going to be called on? A body falling overboard, a dingy (not smart in open waters) or kids in tubes?

It has been sometime since I heard someone use Pushpit!

Thanks CaptUB. My main concern is would they support the padded life lines suffiently when people lean back against the straps and in keeping bodies inside the boat.

My thought was to create an "L" shaped bracket (3" wide and laminated with 2 pcs 3/8 ply) that would look simmilar to a boomarang The Bottom bracket would be bigger than the top bracket but the top bracket would have the same shape. I would drill holes thru each bracket to accomodate the 1" wooden dowells . The dowels would be wrapped in FG. Everything would be epoxy glued. The wide 3" bass would be epoxy glued to the seat top.

In my mind it would work and would be extremly strong. But I could be wrong...

[Jaysen]

There was an unfortunately (for Boogie) shaped pic that arose from this discussion.

To me the mount needs to be "not the seat" and should be T shaped. Two through bolts (backing plates) at the top ot the t create a pivot for the pressure. The center of the T is on a frame/transom which will ensure that the force applied to the bottom of the T will be supported adequately. The pole could be anything that the bracket will accept. I like quarter sawn white oak, but encapsulated ply or stainless steel would probably make more sense.

I guess, after sitting in Tipsy, I really like the idea of those seats being unobstructed. no good reason, just seems that Boogie's plan would want as much seat space for lounging as possible.

I'm sure either mounting method would be fine.

[Bogieman]

There was an unfortunately (for Boogie) shaped pic that arose from this discussion.

To me the mount needs to be "not the seat" and should be T shaped. Two through bolts (backing plates) at the top ot the t create a pivot for the pressure. The center of the T is on a frame/transom which will ensure that the force applied to the bottom of the T will be supported adequately. The pole could be anything that the bracket will accept. I like quarter sawn white oak, but encapsulated ply or stainless steel would probably make more sense.

I guess, after sitting in Tipsy, I really like the idea of those seats being unobstructed. no good reason, just seems that Boogie's plan would want as much seat space for lounging as possible.

I'm sure either mounting method would be fine.

Noted. My idea was to wet out some biaxial tape and then role / wrap (maybe even two layers) the dowels before inserting them into the double laminated top/ bottom brackets. Also the 3" wide footprint coupled with the wide L shape footprint would provide great stability / strength with sufficient weight distribution. The bottom bracket could also be epoxy glued and FG taped to the seat top. Might not even need hardware at all.

[terrulian]

More brightwork or paint.
Never seen it done, and there might be a reason for that.

[Bogieman]

More brightwork or paint.
Never seen it done, and there might be a reason for that.

Hi Tony! I haven't either but I really like the idea of building them myself. It seems to me that wrapping them in FG along with the double laminated base / top bracket would make them super strong but I really don't know.

[Capt UB]

Find out where ArizonaBuilder got his... They look nice.

[Capt UB]

This page could give you some ideas on shape and size if you make them...

https://shop.hunterowners.com//hp/searc ... n%2520rail

[Capt UB]

Sorry you got me thinking....

How about flush deck rod holders as the base, then the right type of dowel (wood) would fit inside the holder... 1.50" dia. I think. Then build on to that...