Radon Transom Replacement

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
Fuzz
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Re: Radon Transom Replacement

Post by Fuzz »

The guys are giving good advise if you are looking for the most strength for the amount of material used. But the are a zillion boats out there built with plain old mat and roving over their stringers that are 30-60 years old and still going strong. You just need to pick what works for your needs.

bigtalljv
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Re: Radon Transom Replacement

Post by bigtalljv »

Thanks all, I appreciate all the discussion. I have epoxy and 1708 right now so that's what I will be using. It doesn't sound like doing anything else is really worth it... Going with different fabrics might create a "stronger" layup if done perfectly but I don't need to go to that level, I' can always just add "more" if it needs it.

I think one issue is I just don't realize how strong fiberglass is. I had a mechanical engineering friend who always said if you're building something out of metal and it looks strong enough to you it's probably 3x what it needs to be :-) Somewhere on here one of the guys said something like 3x3/4" ply X 7" tall and three layers of glass makes a stringer strong enough for a much bigger boat....

fallguy1000
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Re: Radon Transom Replacement

Post by fallguy1000 »

I'm only explaining you don't need to buy uni if you have 1708.

Yeah. A 250 word essay, but same answer in the end.

Use what you have unless it is way wrong and drinks resin to no benefit.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

Fuzz
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Re: Radon Transom Replacement

Post by Fuzz »

Because fiberglass is so limber by the time you get it stiff enough to do the job it is way overkill on the strength part. That is what makes using a core so good, be it wood or something else the spread makes it stiff with a lot less glass.

bigtalljv
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Re: Radon Transom Replacement

Post by bigtalljv »

Thanks guys. Well this is the kind of garbage I am dealing with in the demolition. You all haven’t talked about when it’s appropriate to pour in pools of plain resin….😜. It’s really difficult to get that out, it’s in next to some of the stringers mostly.
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Fuzz
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Re: Radon Transom Replacement

Post by Fuzz »

Many builders might use a skilled glass guy to shoot the gelcoat and lay in the first layer of mat but then turn it over to a minim wage guy with a chop gun. Years ago the materials were cheap so using extra was no big deal. This is why it is hard not to end up with a better boat when it is built by someone who is doing it for themself.

bigtalljv
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Re: Radon Transom Replacement

Post by bigtalljv »

Changing topics a little, when do I put the limber holes/drainage holes in the stringers? Before or after I tab them in?

I have some round fiberglass tube I was thinking of using. I can over drill a bit and bed those in to seal the wood. I’m not sure if that’s a good idea.

Suggestions or comments please….

Fuzz
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Re: Radon Transom Replacement

Post by Fuzz »

I find it much easier to do it while the stringer is upside down and I can see things well.

OneWayTraffic
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Re: Radon Transom Replacement

Post by OneWayTraffic »

bigtalljv wrote: Fri Aug 12, 2022 7:23 pm Thanks guys. Well this is the kind of garbage I am dealing with in the demolition. You all haven’t talked about when it’s appropriate to pour in pools of plain resin….😜
Easy. Anytime you feel like spending money to make the boat heavier with no increase of strength. :wink:

fallguy1000
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Re: Radon Transom Replacement

Post by fallguy1000 »

Just cut notches and lay on some epoxy and a piece of 1708 or use the tubes. Main thing is to seal up the limbers so they don't suck water.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

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