Bob's FS18
Bob's FS18
OK, here we go. I've been working for a few months now, just incredibly slack about posting build progress, and will need to get caught. Ordered the FS18 CNC kit on Monday, March 11 and, because I had already been checking out build threads, the strong back was ready to go when it arrived only a few days later that Friday. What service . . . thanks Reid!


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- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
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- Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:23 am
- Location: Kasilof, Alaska
Re: Bob's FS18
Hey welcome to the fun Bob
That floor looks too clean for boat building but that will soon change.
Strongback looks good for building on. You might need a couple of braces on the legs to keep it from racking.

That floor looks too clean for boat building but that will soon change.
Strongback looks good for building on. You might need a couple of braces on the legs to keep it from racking.
Re: Bob's FS18
Bob,
Welcome to the Forum! I'm confident you will get a lot of feedback as you progress thru your build, especially if you post pictures. Like Fuzz said, I would add some bracing for the legs of the strongback. I would also encourage you to add some heavy duty casters (with the ability to lock). Casters will allow you to move the boat around or outside if you choose to sand outside.
Good luck to you and I am eager to see your progress!!!
-Reid
Welcome to the Forum! I'm confident you will get a lot of feedback as you progress thru your build, especially if you post pictures. Like Fuzz said, I would add some bracing for the legs of the strongback. I would also encourage you to add some heavy duty casters (with the ability to lock). Casters will allow you to move the boat around or outside if you choose to sand outside.
Good luck to you and I am eager to see your progress!!!
-Reid
Someone asked me, if I were stranded on a desert island what book would I bring... "How to Build a Boat."
- Steven Wright
- Steven Wright
Re: Bob's FS18
Bob, Welcome to the Builders Forum!!! Glad to see you starting the FS18 build!! Again, welcome, Jeff
Re: Bob's FS18
Thanks for the welcome! Reid and Fuzz you'll be happy to see that I've made good on your suggestions in upcoming photos.
First weekend was gluing - Laminated the transom and stringers. Also got the hull panels glued with a high tech clamping system on the garage floor. Unforced error number one: Apparently a clean garage floor doesn't mean there are not unforeseen low spots, one of which was directly under one of the bottom panel puzzle joints. It will lead to future unnecessary fairing. Turns out stupid now and extra time later are strangely proportional...


Hull panels ready to go -

P.S. This may be a duplicate post - I think I deleted one by accident - just learning the forum ropes
First weekend was gluing - Laminated the transom and stringers. Also got the hull panels glued with a high tech clamping system on the garage floor. Unforced error number one: Apparently a clean garage floor doesn't mean there are not unforeseen low spots, one of which was directly under one of the bottom panel puzzle joints. It will lead to future unnecessary fairing. Turns out stupid now and extra time later are strangely proportional...
Hull panels ready to go -
P.S. This may be a duplicate post - I think I deleted one by accident - just learning the forum ropes
Re: Bob's FS18
Welcome to the forum!
Off to a great start, regardless of any unforeseen leveling issues and I'll definitely be following along!

Off to a great start, regardless of any unforeseen leveling issues and I'll definitely be following along!
Eric (aka, piperdown)
"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain
"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain
Re: Bob's FS18
Bob,
Good start! No worries about the puzzle joint panels. One cured just sand them down smooth. As long as the you have the gap between the puzzle joints filled and there are not air pockets or gaps you are fine. Keep in mind, the cleaner you work now the smoother and less fairing you will do later.
One tip that will make your life easier when applying fillets and fiberglass tape:
Apply painters tape to the inside of all the seams. This will keep the fillets from pushing thru and making more sanding work for you once you flip the hull. I like to work wet on wet when I get to this point in the build. Once the hull is stitched together and you are ready for fillets, simply make really small "spot welds" with the fillets, maybe 1" wide, just enough to hold the seams together. Once those have cured, remove the stitches and clean up the spot weld fillets. Have your fiberglass tape measured out and cut to length (being sure to follow the lamination schedule). After the tape is measured and cut, roll it up and label it based on where it will go (keel, chine, etc...).
Roll out some neat epoxy (neat refers to epoxy without any fillers added) onto all the seams, making sure to cover an area where the tape will go (3" on each side of the seam). You can let this kick off and get tacky. Next, working on one seam at a time, apply the fillets to the seam. Allow the fillet to kick off but not cure (maybe 30-40 mins). At this point the fillet should still be soft as well as the neat epoxy you rolled out. Start to roll out your fiberglass tape. Work in small sections at a time (maybe 12" lengths). Roll out tape, wet it out, make sure there are no air bubbles (use the laminating roller), and move on down to the next section. Once that seam is done move on to the next. I would start on the keel and work outwards. You don't need to get all the seams done in one day but don't fillet the seam unless you are ready to tape the seam.
By doing this, the fillet will conform to the fiberglass really well and you won't have any air bubbles from uneven fillets. If you fillet first and let it cure you may have to go back and sand the fillets to get them to the right radius so the fiberglass lays down correctly.
I would do this on the inside as well. Doing this also gives you a chemical bond between your fillet and fiberglass tape.
Sorry if that was little long winded but I have found this save a lot of time and sanding/grinding. (I really hate sanding and grinding
)
Good Luck,
Reid
Good start! No worries about the puzzle joint panels. One cured just sand them down smooth. As long as the you have the gap between the puzzle joints filled and there are not air pockets or gaps you are fine. Keep in mind, the cleaner you work now the smoother and less fairing you will do later.
One tip that will make your life easier when applying fillets and fiberglass tape:
Apply painters tape to the inside of all the seams. This will keep the fillets from pushing thru and making more sanding work for you once you flip the hull. I like to work wet on wet when I get to this point in the build. Once the hull is stitched together and you are ready for fillets, simply make really small "spot welds" with the fillets, maybe 1" wide, just enough to hold the seams together. Once those have cured, remove the stitches and clean up the spot weld fillets. Have your fiberglass tape measured out and cut to length (being sure to follow the lamination schedule). After the tape is measured and cut, roll it up and label it based on where it will go (keel, chine, etc...).
Roll out some neat epoxy (neat refers to epoxy without any fillers added) onto all the seams, making sure to cover an area where the tape will go (3" on each side of the seam). You can let this kick off and get tacky. Next, working on one seam at a time, apply the fillets to the seam. Allow the fillet to kick off but not cure (maybe 30-40 mins). At this point the fillet should still be soft as well as the neat epoxy you rolled out. Start to roll out your fiberglass tape. Work in small sections at a time (maybe 12" lengths). Roll out tape, wet it out, make sure there are no air bubbles (use the laminating roller), and move on down to the next section. Once that seam is done move on to the next. I would start on the keel and work outwards. You don't need to get all the seams done in one day but don't fillet the seam unless you are ready to tape the seam.
By doing this, the fillet will conform to the fiberglass really well and you won't have any air bubbles from uneven fillets. If you fillet first and let it cure you may have to go back and sand the fillets to get them to the right radius so the fiberglass lays down correctly.
I would do this on the inside as well. Doing this also gives you a chemical bond between your fillet and fiberglass tape.
Sorry if that was little long winded but I have found this save a lot of time and sanding/grinding. (I really hate sanding and grinding

Good Luck,
Reid
Someone asked me, if I were stranded on a desert island what book would I bring... "How to Build a Boat."
- Steven Wright
- Steven Wright
Re: Bob's FS18
My last "catch up" post for today. While the second set of puzzle joints was curing, I got the jig ready to go.
Unforced error number two: In my enthusiasm to get started, I ended up making the strong back a little too short, so that if the transom knees were properly supported, frame "A" was not resting on anything. Had to extend the strong back to support the frame and the bow extension of the jig. Oops.



Unforced error number two: In my enthusiasm to get started, I ended up making the strong back a little too short, so that if the transom knees were properly supported, frame "A" was not resting on anything. Had to extend the strong back to support the frame and the bow extension of the jig. Oops.
- OrangeQuest
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Re: Bob's FS18
Looking good already!! FS18 is a great boat a few guys are building them now. Good luck and enjoy!
Welcome to the forum,
OQ
Welcome to the forum,
OQ
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne-- Winnie the Pooh
A. A. Milne-- Winnie the Pooh
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- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
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Re: Bob's FS18
Welcome aboard Bob!
You have got off to a nice start, I am looking forward to following along...

You have got off to a nice start, I am looking forward to following along...
Richard
Completed boats...XF20 "Red Alert", Aripeka Angler's Strip Canoe, FS18 “Bare Bones”, GF12
Currently building...PY12 Kayak
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62146
Completed boats...XF20 "Red Alert", Aripeka Angler's Strip Canoe, FS18 “Bare Bones”, GF12
Currently building...PY12 Kayak
Bare Bones build thread...If there is magic on this planet, it is contained in water. - Loren Eiseley
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62146
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