C19 in Richmond, VA

[Jaysen]

Larger, more expensive cables is how you get around a the power drop for long runs.

Undersized cables will get hot inter heavy use. Starters should never have usage that would make that a problem.

Weight balance would normally trump that as you can just bump up cables via jumpers for those situations. That or step up a couple sizes for the bat to motor run.

[fallguy1000]

My Yammies came with pretty long cables, but maybe not long enough for what you are doing.

If you are gpong through a rigging grommet, based on what Jaysen said; if you can't make it; you'd get a high amperage power post amd place it near the engine and accessible and run say #2 or so wires back to it.

Bluesea 2017

https://www.bluesea.com/products/2017/D ... n-16_Studs

This one has 3/8" studs versus the 5/16" typical of marine batteries, but you'd be cutting off the engine leads and making it all custom..

[TomW1]

Here is a table from West Marine that is the same as Ancor Cable Co. that I could not get to come up. The longer the run the heavier the cable has to be. You need to determine the starting amps of your motor first. My Yamaha 75 with a Group 27 battery has Number 2 wires for a 4' run as the battery is in the box next to it.
https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/ ... d-Ampacity I will double check the wire size when it is not raining out side. This also applies to the wire you take to your circuiit breaker beaker or fuse box. If it 15' from your battery then you need to add up all the amps attached to it and multipliy the distance to the battery by two. So if the length to the battery is 10' you need to use 20' on the chart.

Tom

[joe2700]

My Yammies came with pretty long cables, but maybe not long enough for what you are doing.

If you are gpong through a rigging grommet, based on what Jaysen said; if you can't make it; you'd get a high amperage power post amd place it near the engine and accessible and run say #2 or so wires back to it.

Bluesea 2017

https://www.bluesea.com/products/2017/D ... n-16_Studs

This one has 3/8" studs versus the 5/16" typical of marine batteries, but you'd be cutting off the engine leads and making it all custom..

My start and house batteries are in the console on my FS17. I have a powerpost like you linked under the motorwell then ran 4awg to the battery switch in the console. Marine batteries(and the cables that came with my outboard) use a 3/8 positive stud and a 5/16 negative stud. The duel power post comes in exactly that configuration as well: https://www.bluesea.com/products/catego ... _PowerPost

[TomW1]

My Yammies came with pretty long cables, but maybe not long enough for what you are doing.

If you are gpong through a rigging grommet, based on what Jaysen said; if you can't make it; you'd get a high amperage power post amd place it near the engine and accessible and run say #2 or so wires back to it.

Bluesea 2017

https://www.bluesea.com/products/2017/D ... n-16_Studs

This one has 3/8" studs versus the 5/16" typical of marine batteries, but you'd be cutting off the engine leads and making it all custom..

My start and house batteries are in the console on my FS17. I have a powerpost like you linked under the motorwell then ran 4awg to the battery switch in the console. Marine batteries(and the cables that came with my outboard) use a 3/8 positive stud and a 5/16 negative stud. The duel power post comes in exactly that configuration as well: https://www.bluesea.com/products/catego ... _PowerPost

Yep the Negative is always a 1/16th smaller.. Tom

[Dan_Smullen]

If you are gpong through a rigging grommet, based on what Jaysen said; if you can't make it; you'd get a high amperage power post amd place it near the engine and accessible and run say #2 or so wires back to it.

Bluesea 2017

https://www.bluesea.com/products/2017/D ... n-16_Studs

This one has 3/8" studs versus the 5/16" typical of marine batteries, but you'd be cutting off the engine leads and making it all custom..

I see. It's like a junction box. Thank you both for the links.

Glued in the motor well sides, and filleted tabbed them all the way around, including to the transom. Installed my sole extensions on butt blocks.







In lieu of deck drains, ovular scuppers running straight back to the transom will be the play. Rather than take the quick route and build some out of plywood scraps, I have opted for the mold method: and by mold, I mean some wrapping paper tubes, a strip of fir and some pourable foam. (same tubes were used last year for a wire chase mold) I need these next, so structure on the boat is going to have to wait until I make these and am willing to cut some big holes in the transom.

[fallguy1000]

fyi

All terminations in marine applications require crimping ...

[Dan_Smullen]

fyi

All terminations in marine applications require crimping ...

Crimpin’ ain’t easy, Dan.

[fallguy1000]

fyi

All terminations in marine applications require crimping ...

Crimpin’ ain’t easy, Dan.

I realize this...I spent quite a bit on my crimper after learning soldering is a no-no.

You can get a hammer crimper for smaller jobs.

[fallguy1000]

Check n see if your sizes are in this one. Goes to 4/0. I have some 2/0 in the Skoota, and I am doi g a lot so I bought a big one.


https://www.solar-electric.com/hacrtofo ... 20Products