C19 in Richmond, VA

[Dan_Smullen]

Also, Dan. Piling on some, but did you ground the metal sender screws?

Pile it on Dan, I’m clueless about grounding. No wiring yet, but a ground wire from the sending unit to the ground bar under the insole will be good. Right?

[fallguy1000]

The sending unit is metal. The issue is fuel entering the tank can create static.

Despite the fuel sender being insulated by a rubber insolater; it is for some ungodly reason that the sender metal be grounded which means you need to back out a screw and put it back in.

I did not and have not done it, yet, but Tom has indicated it is required. And I believe he is correct. But I can't stand the idea of loosening one of the screws that seals my tank sender...

[fallguy1000]

Or maybe I am confused and it completes the circuit.

[TomTom]

Looks good Dan. One thing I notice is you don't have a batten glued on each side of the frames to give you more gluing service area for the deck especially where they join the next section?

Tom

True, but I doubled up the frames so they are 1” thick, and letting the joint sit in the middle. A good 1/2” under then end of each with a fillet. Still maybe need a little more?

Boat is looking great.

Are you/ have you done a fillet from underside of gunwale to frame and taped this joint? Will you glass the top as well?

I think it would be cheap insurance to add a 1x1 each side of the frame if not. I did a similar thing on my OD 18 and the butt joint "telegraphed" through the gunwale on the top side so you could see a faint line.

[VT_Jeff]

I did a similar thing on my OD 18 and the butt joint "telegraphed" through the gunwale on the top side so you could see a faint line.

I had seen some photos of this "telegraphing", possibly yours, so I routed a V groove into the top of my deck splices and filled with woodflour/epoxy in hopes that the butt joint would stay hidden. So far so good.

[fallguy1000]

The cause of print through is variations in the materials.

The best way to defeat printing through is post curing the boat or part prior to paint.

Here are two pictures of my helm riser, not postcured with holes filled with cabosil and epoxy. The filler probably ought to have had some milled fiber. So interesting how the gravity affected the direction of the sag. The side ones sagged out and the top ones down.

The riser was probably sitting in the paint room for 30 days. These manifested themselves as soon as the riser was subjected to 100F, no direct sun here, in the tent.

Adding fiber to the filler should help some, but post curing is the only sure fix.

[TomW1]

Dan a 1/2" is really not a lot for a deck to rest on when they are flexing with the motion of the boat. While Jeff's boat is 14' and his fix may work for him, your going out in the Bay in bigger water and waves.

Well think about it. Tom

[TomW1]

The sending unit is metal. The issue is fuel entering the tank can create static.

Despite the fuel sender being insulated by a rubber insolater; it is for some ungodly reason that the sender metal be grounded which means you need to back out a screw and put it back in.

I did not and have not done it, yet, but Tom has indicated it is required. And I believe he is correct. But I can't stand the idea of loosening one of the screws that seals my tank sender...

Correct fallguy fuel entering the fill to the tank can create static thus the need for the ground. Do it by loosening one of the nuts underneath and using a loop fitting on the end of the ground wire attach the ground wire. Then run the ground wire to the fuel guage fitting on the tank and do the same thing, loosen one of the screws put the loop under it and retighten it. In your case fallguy use seperate screws for each ground don't double them up on one screw, this will let you tighten them down properly. Of course use the smallest loop possible. Don't worry boat mfg's have to do this to all there boats. All the builders before you have all had to do iit if they did it right.

Tom

[Dan_Smullen]

The cause of print through is variations in the materials.

The best way to defeat printing through is post curing the boat or part prior to paint.

Here are two pictures of my helm riser, not postcured with holes filled with cabosil and epoxy. The filler probably ought to have had some milled fiber. So interesting how the gravity affected the direction of the sag. The side ones sagged out and the top ones down.

The riser was probably sitting in the paint room for 30 days. These manifested themselves as soon as the riser was subjected to 100F, no direct sun here, in the tent.CA92A7AB-8829-47FC-B1BA-8071BC9BEDD7.jpegC3D2092E-6592-45D2-A9F7-E6A23A77E6F1.jpeg

Adding fiber to the filler should help some, but post curing is the only sure fix.

What is "post curing" Allowing the material to go up and down within temperature range?

Also, were these filled holes covered with glass?

[fallguy1000]

The cause of print through is variations in the materials.

The best way to defeat printing through is post curing the boat or part prior to paint.

Here are two pictures of my helm riser, not postcured with holes filled with cabosil and epoxy. The filler probably ought to have had some milled fiber. So interesting how the gravity affected the direction of the sag. The side ones sagged out and the top ones down.

The riser was probably sitting in the paint room for 30 days. These manifested themselves as soon as the riser was subjected to 100F, no direct sun here, in the tent.CA92A7AB-8829-47FC-B1BA-8071BC9BEDD7.jpegC3D2092E-6592-45D2-A9F7-E6A23A77E6F1.jpeg

Adding fiber to the filler should help some, but post curing is the only sure fix.

What is "post curing" Allowing the material to go up and down within temperature range?

Also, were these filled holes covered with glass?

No glass, no room for glass as it was already glassed and I did not want to fair the sides again. Top was same. Already glassed, so no glass.

Post curing is heating the item up to about 155F for two hours with a ramp up and cool down. I post cured the hulls for 8 hours in a 40' shipping can.