C19 in Richmond, VA

[joe2700]

Casters are less than ideal because you won't ever be level.

I find using casters then jacking it up and dropping it straight onto blocks when you need it level works well. I end up using my floor jack all the time with the boat to make adjustments and move around. Do make sure they are strong casters, the boat gets heavier and heavier if you keep using the same strongback as a cradle after flipping.

[Dan_Smullen]

Casters are less than ideal because you won't ever be level.

I’ve thought about that, but for me, it has weighed out to be more of a benefit to be mobile in a tight work area. My intention is to set the frames level on the jig with a laser, while the jig is located in the position in which it will sit while epoxy is curing. But it will be essential for me to push it out of the way in between work sessions.

My wife isn’t going to abide a boat in various stages of construction obstructing her path to the driveway for too long.

I like the idea of leveling feet that I can move up and down as needed.

[Dan_Smullen]

This seems like another worthwhile milestone. Jig assembled.
At 43” wide, my jig is much wider than any recommended size, but this was intentional, to aid in assembly. I had the notion that I would make the jig width match the stringer spacing. In hindsight, any benefit was minimal.
On each temporary frame, I routed a bottom of sole reference line, and cut the vertical supports to be the 40-3/16” baseline to sole dimension, plus the width of the 7-1/2” for the width of the jig rails. I aligned the top of the support with the bottom of sole line, and clamped it tight at 20” off center to align with the inside of the jig. Flipped over the frames with supports clamped to it, and screwed from the face.
On the jig, I marked locations of the frames, and then offset for my gussets, which when installed squarely in a precise location, provided a hard stop against which vertical supports could be indexed, and clamped in place.




I then used a story stick to check bottom of sole dimension from top of jig, which represents the baseline.


It was a simple system, but I didn’t have an appreciation for how high this assembly would place the keel line. If I don’t lower all of this somehow, working on the bottom panels is going to be challenging. Not sure what will be a greater challenge, glassing and fairing something high, or lowering the entire assembly.


Big thanks to Jacques for taking the time to correspond with me about adding flair to the bow. I have to take some time this week to dig into his notes, but I feel like he has blessed the plan, and it is in motion!



This week is install motor well sides, and laminate and install transom.

[Dan_Smullen]

Regarding clamping board, will either sapele mahogany or white oak be suitable materials? I have enough of either to work with.

Thanks,

[piperdown]

Regarding clamping board, will either sapele mahogany or white oak be suitable materials? I have enough of either to work with.

Thanks,

Clamping board like on the transom?

[Dan_Smullen]

Regarding clamping board, will either sapele mahogany or white oak be suitable materials? I have enough of either to work with.

Thanks,

Clamping board like on the transom?

Yes. Exactly.

[narfi]

hehe, looking good, but the fisheye camera lens makes that the most bowed looking strong-back I have ever seen

[piperdown]

Regarding clamping board, will either sapele mahogany or white oak be suitable materials? I have enough of either to work with.

Thanks,

Clamping board like on the transom?

Yes. Exactly.

I don't have the plans for the C19 but I guess I'm a bit surprised that it has a clamping board instead of multiple layers of ply bonded together to make the appropriate thickness.
Ask Jeff or Reid about the white oak. I've heard (never used/experimented) that white oak didn't bond well with epoxy but that might be from older epoxies. https://www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/epoxy-with-oak/

[Dan_Smullen]

After what felt like a nearly catastrophic transom lamination, I re-thought my Gel Magic game and whipped up some notched spreaders on some lexan. 8'x10" hobby sheet from the big box yielded 2, which worked like a charm. I also learned to mix the goo on a larger sheet with a plastic putty knife. Combined with the spreader, some tips from ya'll, the application on these stringers was worry free!


I also DIY'ed some puzzle joints on the stringers. Had the notion of a calm glue up, first "scarfing" two halves together, then laminating, but the cool temps today caused a batch of epoxy mixed this morning to cure slowly. I got tired of waiting, and with my new spreader attached the first inboard stringer. A cool head, a nice mixing board, the spreader, and some help flipping from my wife, made for an easy lamination. Also realized puzzle joints are not necessary on the stringers. The overlapping joints is where the strength comes from, but it was a good exercise before it's time to cut some hull panels, which hopefully, will not be too far into the future.


I'm happy with the way all of the parts are fitting together. Everything seems straight. My intention is to hang the transom and clamping board off the end of the stringers. I was waiting to see the dimension between the bottom edge of the notch in the motor well sides and the notch in the stringer knee. I'll rip the clamping board to this dimension, minus a little for glue. Temporary attachment between stringers and transom for now.




Just for fun, here's a pic of some work from the real job. What will be a decorative mirror grill for a house in Easton, MD.

[changeat44]

Hello Dan,

I follow your build, looks nice!

Did you make your flared bow in AutoCAD? Or will the result be something that will surprise you when it's done?

I'm also interested in a flared bow on my CX21, can't wait to see yours.
I've read somewhere on this forum it has been done before; are there any pictures, I can't find them?

Daniel