Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Posted: **Fri Aug 23, 2019 10:19 pm**

Plans in hand for a few weeks now. Scheming and planning. Sourcing material, and starting at the beginning, which I believe is the strongback.

Because I'm a cad/cnc nerd, i did a quick model of the strong back and 2 piece gussets I'll cut out to keep the vertical stanchions plumb and rigid. A nest of 20 on the cnc will be a quick project.

Probably overkill, but I'm anticipating a slow build and don't want things to sag. I've ordered LSLs, (Laminated Strand Lumber) for the beams. Spaced 40" apart so the outside of the verticals align with the insides of the stringers. Next pics should be the real thing!

Posted: **Sat Aug 24, 2019 3:15 am**

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Fri Aug 23, 2019 10:19 pm I've ordered LSLs, (Laminated Strand Lumber) for the beams.

Welcome to the forum. Good call on the laminated lumber.

Posted: **Sat Aug 24, 2019 3:32 am**

As long as you are planning for the strongback I would think long and hard about mounting casters to it. Big ones that are overkill. Being able to move the boat around with little effort is a wonderful thing.

Posted: **Sat Aug 24, 2019 8:13 am**

Fuzz wrote: ↑Sat Aug 24, 2019 3:32 am As long as you are planning for the strongback I would think long and hard about mounting casters to it. Big ones that are overkill. Being able to move the boat around with little effort is a wonderful thing.

Exactly what’s on my mind. Garage is just barely big enough to hold it, but the ability to move it around so the kids can still reach their bikes is key.

Posted: **Sat Aug 24, 2019 10:21 am**

Big nice castors for sure. My LB22 build took years and two of the castors flattened out a bit.

Dougster

Posted: **Tue Sep 03, 2019 8:39 pm**

LSLs in the house, and big, beefy castors procured!

Question regarding drawing for Station B...

There are two horizontal lines in the area of the sole, but neither is marked with a dimension from the keel or baseline. Which line is the bottom of the sole, and what is a dimension to it?

Thanks.

Posted: **Wed Sep 04, 2019 8:42 am**

The drawing is small and kind of blurry, but the designer asks that we not post any copies of the drawings, just refer to the plan page in question. Anybody with access to the plans can look to see what you're talking about.

The base line is normally the bottom of the sole, that's all the help I can offer.

Posted: **Wed Sep 04, 2019 8:56 am**

pee wee wrote: ↑Wed Sep 04, 2019 8:42 am The drawing is small and kind of blurry, but the designer asks that we not post any copies of the drawings, just refer to the plan page in question. Anybody with access to the plans can look to see what you're talking about.

The base line is normally the bottom of the sole, that's all the help I can offer.

Understood. Thanks for that.

Edited post above.

Posted: **Wed Sep 04, 2019 9:10 am**

Any sign of Jacques?

Posted: **Wed Sep 04, 2019 12:32 pm**

Dan, Welcome to the Builders Forum!!! Also, please give Jacques a little time to respond as he evacuated the area last Friday due to the hurricane!! Jeff

Posted: **Wed Sep 04, 2019 1:48 pm**

You should get an answer, but in the meantime:

Sometimes the answer can be found by looking at different views of the same area, possibly one piece of information on one page put together with another piece from a different page (top view plus side view e.g.). Sometimes a necessary piece of information is in the build notes. Apologies if you've already looked everywhere, but usually everything you need can be found somewhere in your plans.

Posted: **Wed Sep 04, 2019 9:02 pm**

I estimate commercial woodwork and have definitely been known to miss a detail on a drawing. :/

It’s not a deal breaker question. The profile of the frame is clear. This line, I think, only regards the depth of the stringer notch. I can worry about it when the boat is flipped, but would like to know.

Hey, glad you guys dodged a bullet with the storm!

Posted: **Thu Sep 05, 2019 10:26 am**

I ran away from hurricane Dorian. 5 days ago, it was a cat 5 aimed directly at my house.

Those two lines show the sole thickness. The reason for the existence of those lines is to show the depth of the notches.

Posted: **Thu Sep 05, 2019 7:37 pm**

Thank you, Jacque!

What is the dimension to the bottom of the sole from the keel at this station? 11”?

Posted: **Fri Sep 06, 2019 12:01 pm**

Look at station C. It shows the level of the sole measured from the baseline. It is also visible on D. What you see is the level of the lower face of the sole (= top of the stringers) measured from the baseline. It is the same all through the boat. You can see it on some other drawings too.
The way dimensions are shown, it take a couple additions to get that distance but it is 40-1/4".
All other dimensions refer in some way to the baseline and can get them from there.
I don't show dimensions that way anymore. All my new drawings have separate drawings for the stations and for the frames, it's easier to read but so many C19's were built from those plans that I prefer not to change the drafting even if is a little crowded.

You don't need that dimension but I suppose that you want to redraw the hull in CAD and that's fine.

PS: dimension tolerance is set to 1/8. If you add or subtract some of the dimensions, you may get a 1/8" difference. Use 40-1/4".

Posted: **Fri Sep 06, 2019 9:11 pm**

There going to be at least one more built from these plans.

Posted: **Sat Sep 14, 2019 7:05 pm**

Small but relevant milestone! Garage organized and strong back constructed on casters! Dimensions 43" x 208". I'm loving the LSLs. Nice and straight and stiff as a board.

Looking ahead to stringers, are the stringers labeled inboard and outboard inversed on the drawing? It looks like the stringer with the knee should be outboard. Correct?

Posted: **Sat Sep 14, 2019 7:10 pm**

Casters are less than ideal because you won't ever be level.

You could build bolts in hardwood for levelers.

Hard maple works well.

1/2-13" bolts mount in threads tapped into the wod and the bolt head sets on the ground; then you know you are level.

My vac table required them for like 8 setups each side, iirc I made 16 adjusters.

Posted: **Sat Sep 14, 2019 7:25 pm**

You won't need to be level all the time, but plenty of times...

So you make it so you can stand up off the casters when needed.

Posted: **Sun Sep 15, 2019 11:35 am**

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Sat Sep 14, 2019 7:05 pm Small but relevant milestone! Garage organized and strong back constructed on casters! Dimensions 43" x 208". I'm loving the LSLs. Nice and straight and stiff as a board.

Looking ahead to stringers, are the stringers labeled inboard and outboard inversed on the drawing? It looks like the stringer with the knee should be outboard. Correct?

I think in mine (metric) the labeling is reversed; the longer one is the inner one.

Posted: **Sun Sep 15, 2019 7:24 pm**

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 14, 2019 7:10 pm Casters are less than ideal because you won't ever be level.

I find using casters then jacking it up and dropping it straight onto blocks when you need it level works well. I end up using my floor jack all the time with the boat to make adjustments and move around. Do make sure they are strong casters, the boat gets heavier and heavier if you keep using the same strongback as a cradle after flipping.

Posted: **Mon Sep 16, 2019 8:08 pm**

joe2700 wrote: ↑Sun Sep 15, 2019 7:24 pm
fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 14, 2019 7:10 pm Casters are less than ideal because you won't ever be level.

I’ve thought about that, but for me, it has weighed out to be more of a benefit to be mobile in a tight work area. My intention is to set the frames level on the jig with a laser, while the jig is located in the position in which it will sit while epoxy is curing. But it will be essential for me to push it out of the way in between work sessions.

My wife isn’t going to abide a boat in various stages of construction obstructing her path to the driveway for too long.

I like the idea of leveling feet that I can move up and down as needed.

Posted: **Mon Sep 23, 2019 8:57 am**

This seems like another worthwhile milestone. Jig assembled.

At 43” wide, my jig is much wider than any recommended size, but this was intentional, to aid in assembly. I had the notion that I would make the jig width match the stringer spacing. In hindsight, any benefit was minimal.
On each temporary frame, I routed a bottom of sole reference line, and cut the vertical supports to be the 40-3/16” baseline to sole dimension, plus the width of the 7-1/2” for the width of the jig rails. I aligned the top of the support with the bottom of sole line, and clamped it tight at 20” off center to align with the inside of the jig. Flipped over the frames with supports clamped to it, and screwed from the face.

On the jig, I marked locations of the frames, and then offset for my gussets, which when installed squarely in a precise location, provided a hard stop against which vertical supports could be indexed, and clamped in place.

I then used a story stick to check bottom of sole dimension from top of jig, which represents the baseline.

It was a simple system, but I didn’t have an appreciation for how high this assembly would place the keel line. If I don’t lower all of this somehow, working on the bottom panels is going to be challenging. Not sure what will be a greater challenge, glassing and fairing something high, or lowering the entire assembly.

Big thanks to Jacques for taking the time to correspond with me about adding flair to the bow. I have to take some time this week to dig into his notes, but I feel like he has blessed the plan, and it is in motion!

This week is install motor well sides, and laminate and install transom.

Posted: **Mon Sep 23, 2019 11:28 am**

Regarding clamping board, will either sapele mahogany or white oak be suitable materials? I have enough of either to work with.

Thanks,

Posted: **Mon Sep 23, 2019 2:29 pm**

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Mon Sep 23, 2019 11:28 am Regarding clamping board, will either sapele mahogany or white oak be suitable materials? I have enough of either to work with.

Thanks,

Clamping board like on the transom?

Posted: **Mon Sep 23, 2019 3:23 pm**

piperdown wrote: ↑Mon Sep 23, 2019 2:29 pm
Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Mon Sep 23, 2019 11:28 am Regarding clamping board, will either sapele mahogany or white oak be suitable materials? I have enough of either to work with.

Thanks,
Clamping board like on the transom?

Yes. Exactly.

Posted: **Mon Sep 23, 2019 3:47 pm**

hehe, looking good, but the fisheye camera lens makes that the most bowed looking strong-back I have ever seen

Posted: **Mon Sep 23, 2019 4:17 pm**

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Mon Sep 23, 2019 3:23 pm
piperdown wrote: ↑Mon Sep 23, 2019 2:29 pm
Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Mon Sep 23, 2019 11:28 am Regarding clamping board, will either sapele mahogany or white oak be suitable materials? I have enough of either to work with.

Thanks,
Clamping board like on the transom?
Yes. Exactly.

I don't have the plans for the C19 but I guess I'm a bit surprised that it has a clamping board instead of multiple layers of ply bonded together to make the appropriate thickness.
Ask Jeff or Reid about the white oak. I've heard (never used/experimented) that white oak didn't bond well with epoxy but that might be from older epoxies. https://www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/epoxy-with-oak/

Posted: **Sat Oct 05, 2019 6:21 pm**

After what felt like a nearly catastrophic transom lamination, I re-thought my Gel Magic game and whipped up some notched spreaders on some lexan. 8'x10" hobby sheet from the big box yielded 2, which worked like a charm. I also learned to mix the goo on a larger sheet with a plastic putty knife. Combined with the spreader, some tips from ya'll, the application on these stringers was worry free!

I also DIY'ed some puzzle joints on the stringers. Had the notion of a calm glue up, first "scarfing" two halves together, then laminating, but the cool temps today caused a batch of epoxy mixed this morning to cure slowly. I got tired of waiting, and with my new spreader attached the first inboard stringer. A cool head, a nice mixing board, the spreader, and some help flipping from my wife, made for an easy lamination. Also realized puzzle joints are not necessary on the stringers. The overlapping joints is where the strength comes from, but it was a good exercise before it's time to cut some hull panels, which hopefully, will not be too far into the future.

I'm happy with the way all of the parts are fitting together. Everything seems straight. My intention is to hang the transom and clamping board off the end of the stringers. I was waiting to see the dimension between the bottom edge of the notch in the motor well sides and the notch in the stringer knee. I'll rip the clamping board to this dimension, minus a little for glue. Temporary attachment between stringers and transom for now.

Just for fun, here's a pic of some work from the real job. What will be a decorative mirror grill for a house in Easton, MD.

Posted: **Tue Oct 08, 2019 6:01 am**

Hello Dan,

I follow your build, looks nice!

Did you make your flared bow in AutoCAD? Or will the result be something that will surprise you when it's done?

I'm also interested in a flared bow on my CX21, can't wait to see yours.
I've read somewhere on this forum it has been done before; are there any pictures, I can't find them?

Daniel

Posted: **Tue Oct 08, 2019 12:18 pm**

Thanks, Daniel! I’m enjoying the process.

A little bit of both on the bow. I drew all of the parts in Fusion 360, which is 3D modeling software. From here I creat the cnc programs to cut parts. It’s more user friendly for me. Rather than set up and do full size layouts on sheets to cut by hand, this process allows me to work on things a little at a time as free time allows.

I read the thread about flared bows, and reversed the camber on station 1 and the bow mold. Jacque offered to take a look at my model, which he did, and have some advice on how to make the hull panels work. Thread is here. https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25003

I haven’t dug into his advice yet; I’ve been focused on stringers and transom, but plan on laying out the bottom panels this week, making my way toward the side panels, which will be affected by the reverse camber.

Jacque also suggested kerfing the hull panels to allow them to bend easier, which I will. I’m going to squeeze as much flare as I can!

Posted: **Tue Oct 08, 2019 12:38 pm**

Sounds you know what your doing, must be exciting for you!
I keep an eye on your build

Thanks and good luck,
Daniel

Posted: **Tue Oct 08, 2019 5:25 pm**

I wouldn’t say I know what I’m doing, but I am trying to use the tools I have.

I’m excited for sure. Definitely the most complex single product project I’ve ever undertaken!

Posted: **Sun Oct 13, 2019 7:59 pm**

Stringers completed, and transom hanging!

Goal is to cut both bottom panels this week. Stitching next weekend? Could happen...

Posted: **Sun Oct 13, 2019 10:26 pm**

That level is important. It's been one of my best friends during my build

Everything looks nice and solid. Fun times. I look forward to watching the rest of your build.

Bogie

Posted: **Mon Oct 14, 2019 12:51 am**

Nice work Dan!

Daniel

Posted: **Mon Oct 14, 2019 7:11 am**

Nice work!

Posted: **Mon Oct 14, 2019 7:38 am**

Good start!!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Oct 15, 2019 9:06 am**

Nice work!!

Posted: **Tue Oct 15, 2019 10:41 am**

Eric1 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 15, 2019 9:06 amNice work!!

Thanks, Gents!

Question for you, Eric. Standing here, looking at the keel at about eye level, I’m wondering how I’m going to be able to effectively sand and paint the bottom of this boat.

Assuming you faced similar challenges on your C21. What do you to manage sanding over your head? Just work off a ladder or something more creative?

Posted: **Tue Oct 15, 2019 12:22 pm**

I have two heavy butcher block tables I stood on.

Posted: **Wed Oct 16, 2019 11:00 am**

I used an 8' 2 x 6 as staging. Set it on two of anything the right height. It was a bit of a pita but more fun fooling with that than the actual sanding

Dougster

Posted: **Wed Oct 23, 2019 7:32 pm**

Stitching is going well. I'm kind of a one piece flow type of guy, so started with the bottom panels. Puzzle joints worked well.

First attempt without any spacers didn't work at all.

Notice the overlapped edges.

A brief search through the forums, and I was well armed with the experience of others, and ready for success.

The pipe pieces were key. Notice the hole drilled in the pipe which holds the spacer nail.

Also, slow and steady, tightening as I went, and in an hour or so, the bottom panels were stitched.

I went into this build fired up to create a flaired bow. Modified the bow mold and station one to accommodate. Jacques, more than graciously looked at the little cad work I had done, offered sound advice and wished me the best. However, looking at how well the panels are coming together, taking shape with very little help from the frames, I'm reluctant to try to change a good thing. I don't have the stomach for the test cuts while I have such a good design as is. Looking at the line of the keel, transitioning into the front of the bow, it's easy to see how the hull panels, as designed will provide a sexy, and functional front end, without a bunch of experimentation.

I'm taking the easy route, but I'm not willing to tackle the unknowns, especially while things are going so well.

So it's side panels next!

Posted: **Thu Oct 24, 2019 5:09 am**

Looking good Dan! Build On!!

Posted: **Thu Oct 24, 2019 7:38 am**

Nice progress!!!! Jeff

Posted: **Thu Oct 24, 2019 8:45 am**

Looks good Dan! Nice job troubleshooting the issue.

-Reid

Posted: **Sun Oct 27, 2019 3:08 pm**

I couldn't have asked for the panels to have come together better than they did!

Great dimensions, Jacques!

Posted: **Mon Oct 28, 2019 9:51 am**

Good work! That's a fair looking boat

Posted: **Mon Oct 28, 2019 8:12 pm**

piperdown wrote: ↑Mon Oct 28, 2019 9:51 am Good work! That's a fair looking boat

Thank you, Sir! The panels are coming together very well.

The upper side panel seems to be running long at the bow.

I'm not worried about this. It actually gives me a little material to shape at the bow. I'd like to taper the end so it's aligned with the lower side panel, but tapered to nothing where the tip of the bow is in the picture. Simply aesthetic.

Also, there is a bit of a buckle at the seam in the forwardmost 6 feet of the upper side panel. I can make it go tight by riding down off of the 6" line by an inch or two.

Am I correct to think the riding down a small amount is better than fighting a buckle?

Posted: **Mon Oct 28, 2019 11:38 pm**

I would do what I could to get rid of the buckle rather than have to deal with it later. Also if the upper panels are not glued on yet you can lower them down until they line up at the bow. Too long or short with the upper panels is all about where they are located on the lower panels.
No matter what you do it will not matter much, the boat is looking very nice.

Posted: **Tue Oct 29, 2019 6:40 pm**

Good points, Fuzz. I’ve seen some other posts where an improper overlap caused the problem. I thought it is supposed to be 6”, but need to double check.

Maybe the bigger question is, how much minimum overlap is required. If it goes from 5-4” and everything is fair, is there a problem?

Jacques?

Posted: **Tue Oct 29, 2019 7:26 pm**

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Tue Oct 29, 2019 6:40 pm Good points, Fuzz. I’ve seen some other posts where an improper overlap caused the problem. I thought it is supposed to be 6”, but need to double check.

Maybe the bigger question is, how much minimum overlap is required. If it goes from 5-4” and everything is fair, is there a problem?

Jacques?

Question answered by Jacques in another post,

"I think the building notes say 6" but there is no need to measure anything. The lower panel start at the chine, the upper panel ends at the sheer. You know where the sheer is. That's all, no need to measure."

Posted: **Sun Nov 03, 2019 11:24 am**

Pretty much a consistent 4" overlapped worked for the upper side panel. Plenty of screws, but none of them seemed to cause an deformation, and the sides still look fair.

Up to this point, I've used about 85% of a 1-1/2 gallon Gel Magic bucket. With this, I have laminated the transom, applied the transom clamp, laminated all 4 stringers, and the 2 side panels. Happy with the yield for sure.

All panels are spot welded. Over the next few days I'm going to do some research on how much resin it will take to fill and tape the joints wet on wet to be sure I have enough before jumping into that. I have 2 gallons on hand. Thinking that will be enough, but would like to double check.

Posted: **Mon Nov 04, 2019 9:14 am**

Good progress Dan!!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Nov 04, 2019 9:40 am**

2 gallons of EazyFillet should be enough.
Do not use too much putty. A 1/2" radius is fine. The fillet's job is to allow the fiberglass to take a nice turn around the corners. 1/2" is more than enough for biaxial 12 oz. and 3/8 is sufficient for small corners like furniture done with woven glass.

Posted: **Mon Nov 04, 2019 10:46 am**

Thanks, Jacques.

I plan on working wet on wet for fillets and tape. Is the EZ Fillet better suited for this more so than epoxy and wood flour mix? Also, should I be backing up the inside of these joints with packing tape inside the hull?

Posted: **Fri Nov 08, 2019 8:39 am**

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Mon Nov 04, 2019 10:46 am Thanks, Jacques.

I plan on working wet on wet for fillets and tape. Is the EZ Fillet better suited for this more so than epoxy and wood flour mix? Also, should I be backing up the inside of these joints with packing tape inside the hull?

Hi Dan,

I've never used EZ Fillet so I can't help you there. And, yes, tape those inside seems to prevent the fillet from leaking through. Everything looks great!

Posted: **Fri Nov 08, 2019 3:25 pm**

EZ Fillet is nice and easy to use. But like most things you pay for that use of use. I mix my own fillet mix but would not hesitate to use EZ Fillet if I had it.

Posted: **Mon Nov 11, 2019 8:31 am**

It is easy to use and mix. I find it tends to kick off faster than when I mix my own wood flour and epoxy.

Posted: **Mon Nov 25, 2019 7:57 pm**

Not too bad! I think I had been sub consciously delaying out of anxiety, having never taken on a fiberglass/epoxy project of this size, but thanks to the many tips and much advice I've got from you guys directly, and by reading about your own experiences, this went rather well.

Rolled neat on first. Mixed a new batch or two or wood flour. Filled seams with it by using the now famous piping bag method, then covered it all with precut lengths of tape. I saturated the tape with subsequent batches using a variety of application methods which included, but not limited too, brushing, rolling, dumping and squeegeeing. Did two layers each on the transom and keel Saturday night, one layer on each chine on Sunday.

Altogether, worked at a leisurely pace using fast hardener in a 66 deg. garage, mixing about 1/2 a quart at a time. Rolling with 1/8" nap rollers from West System seemed to be the neatest, although dumping and controlling the puddle with a squeegee worked well too, as long as I rolled it out after.

I have one or two small white spots that will need some attention. I believe in these areas the peanut butter sagged in and away from the tape, or my fillet on the edge of the plywood wasn't quite enough.

Pictures are terrible due to night time garage lighting, but I'm stoked to be at yet another milestone! Thanks for the help fellas!

Hull glass may have to wait until after Christmas, the next few weeks look busy on the family front!

Posted: **Tue Nov 26, 2019 9:51 am**

Posted: **Tue Nov 26, 2019 10:04 am**

I think you are good to go!

Posted: **Sun Dec 01, 2019 2:12 pm**

Eric1 wrote: ↑Tue Nov 26, 2019 10:04 am I think you are go to go!

That has a nice ring to it!
Some Thanksgiving fish action. Hope to be bringing these guys over the rail next year!

Posted: **Sun Dec 01, 2019 2:18 pm**

Nice!

Posted: **Mon Dec 02, 2019 5:54 pm**

Nice fish Dan. "Yak attack" huh? Rudee's Inlet or Lynnhaven by chance? We are neighbors … Colonial Heights … so simply had to register once I saw this current thread. Done a little kayak fishing there myself.

I've been contemplating taking the plunge. Kinda had my eyes set initially on the OB15 for the wife and I. Then was considering possibly the OD16. Now "seriously" considering the OB17. She's definitely a pretty ride but realistically more than I need. Probably gonna end up going with the 16 as the majority will be along the James River with a trip now and then South. The warden has given me the green light on whatever route I choose … silly woman …. Decisions, Decisions …….

Posted: **Mon Dec 02, 2019 7:44 pm**

jw01 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 02, 2019 5:54 pm Nice fish Dan. "Yak attack" huh? Rudee's Inlet or Lynnhaven by chance?

Niether. WNB...

Right on, JW! Glad to run into a neighbor! Thanks for posting.

Either hull will be nice, but the xtra foot of the 17 may be nice from time to time, for not much more investment.

Plans are easy to follow. If you take the plunge, speak up. It will be good to collaborate!

Posted: **Mon Dec 02, 2019 10:03 pm**

Boat is looking good.
Do my eyes deceive me or do I see a moose rack hanging on the wall?

Posted: **Tue Dec 03, 2019 7:14 am**

Good progress Dan!!!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Dec 03, 2019 12:47 pm**

Fuzz wrote: ↑Mon Dec 02, 2019 10:03 pm Boat is looking good.
Do my eyes deceive me or do I see a moose rack hanging on the wall?

You are correct. I worked with some guys in Seward and Nikiski who ran a gold mine in Coldfoot, where I got to go a few times, and we hunted there. This was Fall '98 or '99, don't recall which. Definitely thankful for the opportunity to experience that for sure. I haven't been back to AK since '01. On my bucket list to go back.

I see you're from Kasilof. I spent some time there on a tender working for Cook Inlet Processing, Fond memories for sure, but regret only the fact that I don't think I'm welcome back at the Big T Lodge.

Posted: **Tue Dec 03, 2019 1:32 pm**

I am always surprised at the number of folks who have been up here. You must have been having a lot of fun to wear out your welcome at the Big T

Posted: **Sat Dec 14, 2019 7:37 am**

Rmarsh wrote: ↑Mon Oct 14, 2019 7:11 amNice work!

Thank you sir! As was your C17!

I unsuccessfully tried to find your photo gallery. Do you have a link?

Posted: **Sat Dec 14, 2019 2:37 pm**

Hi Dan..I do have pictures in the builders gallery....C17 in Mass.
Been enjoying watching the progress and quality of your build.
Bob

Posted: **Sun Dec 15, 2019 9:14 pm**

Rmarsh wrote: ↑Sat Dec 14, 2019 2:37 pm Hi Dan..I do have pictures in the builders gallery....C17 in Mass.
Been enjoying watching the progress and quality of your build.
Bob

I've been looking and searching for your album, but coming up short. If you have a shortcut to share, please post!

Posted: **Mon Dec 16, 2019 5:50 am**

Dan: Try this link http://gallery.bateau2.com/index.php?cat=44449

Posted: **Mon Dec 16, 2019 8:15 pm**

Rmarsh wrote: ↑Mon Dec 16, 2019 5:50 am Dan: Try this link http://gallery.bateau2.com/index.php?cat=44449

You da man! Thanks for that. Great looking boat. The swim step looks great and well thought out. It's nice to get a look ahead by seeing how others have gone before.

Posted: **Mon Dec 30, 2019 1:06 pm**

I took advantage of some down time after Christmas to glass the outside of the hull with 12oz. biax as specified. Started with the transom a few days ago to work get a sense of what the process was going to be.

All in, I laid out about 25 yards, using a little 420 ounces of epoxy. Not counting the transom, the hull took me about 8 hours to complete, all in one day.

I think it went well. Used a a PVC roller on the bottom where it is relatively flat. Dumped small batches of material on the boat, moved them around with the roller, then squeegeed excess material to dry areas. Looking back on wet out areas, I looked for white spots that may have indicated some bubbles, and sniped those by dabbing epoxy and flattening any glass that was puckered.

On the sides, I opted for again pouring material on the bottom where the side panels overlapped, and spread epoxy with chip brushes, and then squeegeing excess. As directed, I cut glass at the bottom edge of the upper side panels with a razor after the epoxy got a little green.

Great tips from Fallguy about marking the locations of the dry glass with a marker, which acted as a guide while laying the cut glass on top of a tacky hull.

Jeff, also appreciate the suggestion of some medium hardener. I used it all wetting out the glass.

Also, took some time on the computer to start working on the console design. To me, this will be the funnest part of the project.

So now, off the begin fairing!

Posted: **Mon Dec 30, 2019 1:16 pm**

Dan, nice glass work!! I really like the console design as well!!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Dec 31, 2019 8:23 am**

Jeff wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 1:16 pm Dan, nice glass work!! I really like the console design as well!!! Jeff

Thanks Jeff! I’m learning as a I go. Couldn’t do it without you and everyone else on here!

Posted: **Tue Dec 31, 2019 9:24 am**

Great job Dan. I like your console!

Posted: **Wed Jan 01, 2020 4:27 pm**

Eric1 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 31, 2019 9:24 am Great job Dan. I like your console!

Thanks Eric! Now I just need to get there, and build it!

Posted: **Wed Jan 01, 2020 4:33 pm**

Happy New Year Folks!

Fairing has begun!

After knocking off the splinters and nibs with the belt sander, I'm spreading a mix of phenolic microballons and glass spheres. Mixing 6oz batches with fast hardener, and getting good coverage just trying to fill low areas. Mainly the "ledges" at overlapping glass, and the weave. Spreading with a relatively stiff 12" plastic squeegee.

4"x19" DIY torture board and I will get to know each other well over the next few weeks I'm sure.

Posted: **Thu Jan 02, 2020 4:52 pm**

There ye go Dan. Was wondering if you had been working on it. Looks good man. Nice rendering on that console !!

Posted: **Thu Jan 02, 2020 9:37 pm**

jw01 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2020 4:52 pm There ye go Dan. Was wondering if you had been working on it. Looks good man. Nice rendering on that console !!

Thanks, JW.

Winter has fallen. The fairing has begun...

Posted: **Fri Jan 03, 2020 7:05 am**

Dan, glad to see the fairing has begun!! Jeff

Posted: **Sun Jan 05, 2020 8:04 pm**

Jeff wrote: ↑Fri Jan 03, 2020 7:05 am Dan, glad to see the fairing has begun!! Jeff

Me too, Jeff! Thanks!

New tool in the shop to help!

Looking pretty good athwartships, but a little hook to contend with on back half of the port side bottom panel.

Opting to apply reverse chines and skeg before continuing to fair.

Posted: **Mon Jan 06, 2020 3:03 pm**

love your console!
Have you considered a console toe kick? - Would make it harder to fabridate but may save some toes?

Posted: **Mon Jan 06, 2020 5:10 pm**

tcason wrote: ↑Mon Jan 06, 2020 3:03 pm love your console!
Have you considered a console toe kick? - Would make it harder to fabridate but may save some toes?

I hadn't considered it, but I like the idea! Definitely going to keep that in mind when I get closer.

Posted: **Mon Jan 06, 2020 5:17 pm**

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Sun Jan 05, 2020 8:04 pm Looking pretty good athwartships, but a little hook to contend with on back half of the port side bottom panel.

I have a similar issue, same place, interested to see how you handle it. I am tempted to leave it as I am horrible at fairing and could end up with a bigger problem than I have now. I've read all about the potential issues with hook, still tempted to leave it.

Posted: **Mon Jan 06, 2020 6:59 pm**

The toe kick on the console is a nice modification that will gain you several inches of deck space and allow you to mount whatever seating system you choose closer to the console. It is a small detail, but a very effective customization.

I added one to the console I built for my brother’s FS-19. Works well in real life.

Makes the console installation a little harder due to the recess. Sanding, priming and painting also are somewhat more difficult as well, but the payoff is worth it.

Building a mock console out of cardboard was very helpful to me. It really helped with fine tuning the dimensions, fore and aft placement, leaning post placement, steering wheel placement, dash board angle, console height & depth.

For example, the depth of the instrument panel had to be changed to accommodate the electronics that were flush mounted. The amount of clearance needed behind the instrument panel to accommodate the VHF, Sonar/GPS and all the wiring to support them was greater than I first thought. I also had to incorporate access panels on the front and back to be able to install and wire everything. I ended up adding a front door with tackle box storage and a rear bi fold door. I also added a shelf on the inside to hold safety equipment, flares, air horn, etc. I also mounted the fire extinguisher inside the console on a bracket.

The console fabrication and modification ended up being one of the most satisfying parts of the project because it really embodied the custom build aspect of the whole project. Everything is set-up to be at the correct height with optimal sight lines and instrument locations for my brother when he is standing or sitting. He is 6’3”, I’m 5’11”. I can still use the console but it is not as comfortable for me as it is for him.

Adding the custom dash panel with switches and circuit breakers really took it to the next level. It saved me a lot of time wiring all the switches and I feel it was well worth the expense.

To save you time searching through the forum, here are a few pictures of the finished console with & without the windshield.

Posted: **Mon Jan 06, 2020 7:59 pm**

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Mon Jan 06, 2020 5:17 pm
I have a similar issue, same place, interested to see how you handle it. I am tempted to leave it as I am horrible at fairing and could end up with a bigger problem than I have now. I've read all about the potential issues with hook, still tempted to leave it.

20191223_182235.jpg

Hey! How'd you get my level?

Took me a minute to place the pic in your shop...

I think applying the skeg and chines flat and straight will give me two points to work between as I move forward down the bottom of the hull. If the hook is not too deep, I'm thinking I can screed filler between the straight edges of skeg and chine. I had a little low spot at the stem that I filled with a piece of glass. It worked well there, could do the same here if it's deeper than 3/16".

Also tempted to just move on too, but don't think I can. Worst part is that before taping, I told myself to add a strut or two between frames to support the panels, but I didn't, which probably would have prevented it from developing.

Browndog wrote: ↑Mon Jan 06, 2020 6:59 pm The toe kick on the console is a nice modification that will gain you several inches of deck space and allow you to mount whatever seating system you choose closer to the console. It is a small detail, but a very effective customization.

Thanks for the pics, Browndog. I've read over your build thread a few times. I'm sure I'll be referring back to again soon. Actually hoping I can touch base with your brother sometime and take a look at the finished product. Its a beautiful boat.

Definitely going to build a mock up or two before making sawdust on the console.

Posted: **Mon Jan 06, 2020 8:11 pm**

Reverse chines and skeg in the shop this afternoon. Fir for the chines. Had some white oak scraps not big enough to do anything else, other than become a skeg. Should get them stuck this week.

I'm a sucker for a sweet machine set up.

Posted: **Mon Jan 06, 2020 8:58 pm**

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Mon Jan 06, 2020 7:59 pm Worst part is that before taping, I told myself to add a strut or two between frames to support the panels, but I didn't, which probably would have prevented it from developing.

I actually did do that after reading nightmares of others. I wedged something between the stringer and the bottom panel on both sides and *thought* I had them flat before I glassed. I'm adding strakes on each side instead of a single on the keel/center so I can get some tracking without adding depth, maybe that will take some of the hollow out, we'll see.

Appreciate the input Dan, and very nice level!

Jeff

Posted: **Mon Jan 06, 2020 9:01 pm**

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Mon Jan 06, 2020 8:11 pm
I'm a sucker for a sweet machine set up.

Damn! Nice operation!

Posted: **Tue Jan 07, 2020 7:10 am**

I recall a discussion in the past where it was said that Jacques has occasionally designed the hull and fiberglass overlaps to have a slight hook near the transom.

Posted: **Tue Jan 07, 2020 10:57 am**

Browndog wrote: ↑Tue Jan 07, 2020 7:10 am I recall a discussion in the past where it was said that Jacques has occasionally designed the hull and fiberglass overlaps to have a slight hook near the transom.

I remember reading something along these lines, but I think JM was saying that he designs the transom to sit a little lower to prevent hook developing as fg is lapped over the edges. I'd have to look to be sure, but I think this was in the build thread for "Auspicious".

Posted: **Wed Jan 08, 2020 12:57 pm**

Sorry for the hack Dan, Brown dog do you by chance have dimensions of your console?
I absolutely love it and would like to copy it for my C21.!

Posted: **Wed Jan 08, 2020 5:01 pm**

Eric,

Found some old sketches of the console. Not sure if the dimensions are 100% correct since the boat isn’t here to measure, but at least it’s a start. Attached is a picture of the Side view. The sketch is definitely not to scale, but you’ll get most of the pertinent info from it.

The front of the console dimensions are a trapezoid 34” wide on the bottom and 33” wide at the top and 48” tall. From the picture of the sketch you can see that the console is also raked to the rear by 3”. This really adds to the comfort of standing behind the console with the added toe kick.

Posted: **Wed Jan 08, 2020 7:16 pm**

Eric1 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 08, 2020 12:57 pm Sorry for the hack Dan, Brown dog do you by chance have dimensions of your console?
I absolutely love it and would like to copy it for my C21.!

No problem, Eric. If all goes well I’m going to meet up with Jonathan Evans on Monday and lay my eyes on this beauty. I’ll try to get some dimensions for you.

Posted: **Thu Jan 09, 2020 10:36 am**

Thanks guys.

Posted: **Thu Jan 09, 2020 10:52 am**

Dan,

Interested to see how you're going to transition those reverse chines at their forward end. Did you taper them in that same milling operation or will that happen later?

Posted: **Thu Jan 09, 2020 12:58 pm**

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Thu Jan 09, 2020 10:52 am Dan,

Interested to see how you're going to transition those reverse chines at their forward end. Did you taper them in that same milling operation or will that happen later?

Currently developing a plan that involves a template to match the edge of the bottom panel, tapered to nothing about 18” back from the stem.

Hope to be working through this over the weekend

Posted: **Thu Jan 09, 2020 1:34 pm**

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Thu Jan 09, 2020 12:58 pm
VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Thu Jan 09, 2020 10:52 am Dan,

Interested to see how you're going to transition those reverse chines at their forward end. Did you taper them in that same milling operation or will that happen later?

Currently developing a plan that involves a template to match the edge of the bottom panel, tapered to nothing about 18” back from the stem.

Hope to be working through this over the weekend

Sounds like more fun than fairing, good luck!

Posted: **Thu Jan 09, 2020 5:05 pm**

This is the first part of it.

Will glue these together and then cut out to match the template. I think the majority of the shaping will happen by hand.

Posted: **Fri Jan 10, 2020 9:41 am**

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Thu Jan 09, 2020 5:05 pm This is the first part of it.

Will glue these together and then cut out to match the template. I think the majority of the shaping will happen by hand.

As a longtime woodworker I can appreciate the love of a good setup, but also have come to understand there are times it's much faster and just as good to pick up a hand tool (like a plane or draw knife) and get to work! Jigs and fixtures really shine when you need repeatability and accuracy, they make fast work of multiples. I like that work you did through the power planer, though, and what a planer! I'd love to have access to some equipment like that.

I enjoy watching how other people look at a problem and find a solution. Looking good.

Posted: **Mon Jan 13, 2020 8:54 pm**

Eric1 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 09, 2020 10:36 amThanks guys.

Eyes laid on the beauty this afternoon. She stood out like a diamond in the ruff amongst the Lake Anna pontoon fleet. Console closet matches Browndog’s dimensions in the pic.

Posted: **Mon Jan 27, 2020 9:59 pm**

Have spent time fairing the transom. After some advice from here and You Tube auto body guys, I made progress. The correct sandpaper, 40 grit aluminum oxide on a 16" Durablock has been a game changer.

Hit the transom with guide powder and 40 grit, no powder was left behind, so after some 80 and 120 grit, the transom will be ready for primer. Will blend in the edges with the bottom later.

Before moving on to the rest of the fairing, I resolved to complete the reverse chines/spray rails, which caused much head scratching. It was examination of this 18' Parker, that unlocked the mystery of the spray rail geometry!

It appears to me, that the bottom face of the spray rail remains parallel to the angle of the reverse chine at the stern, in this case, ~6 degrees from the waterline. The outside face remains in line with the face of the side panel.

To get the blanks, 8/4 fir was scarfed to rough shape. Cut out to match template. Re-sawn to 3/16" ,then laminated in place place on the hull.

After cured, and edges cleaned up, I chiseled in at angles parallel to the face of the chine, then band-sawed away material between, then planed and shaped the face by hand to close enough.

The aft portion of the reverse chine is about 9' long and straight; kerfed the last 24" of so to bend into place along the shape of the hull, to pair up with the end of the laminated section.

Now, just need to mirror onto the other side...

I've kept them screwed in place while shaping, but will glue permanently, fill voids with peanut butter, round corners, then glass over with 10 oz. woven. Funny thing is, I bought the woven from BBC a month ago, because for sure, I would be glassing in spray rails that weekend.

This step has been a puzzler for sure, but a joy to work through. I'm'm glad they will soon be in the rear view mirror! Will be nice to have them glassed in, and fairing the bottom.

Posted: **Tue Jan 28, 2020 7:17 am**

Nice work!!!! Jeff

Posted: **Wed Jan 29, 2020 4:26 pm**

Jeff wrote: ↑Tue Jan 28, 2020 7:17 am Nice work!!!! Jeff

Thank you, Jeff!

pee wee wrote: ↑Fri Jan 10, 2020 9:41 am

As a longtime woodworker I can appreciate the love of a good setup, but also have come to understand there are times it's much faster and just as good to pick up a hand tool (like a plane or draw knife) and get to work! Jigs and fixtures really shine when you need repeatability and accuracy, they make fast work of multiples. I like that work you did through the power planer, though, and what a planer! I'd love to have access to some equipment like that.

I enjoy watching how other people look at a problem and find a solution. Looking good.

Thanks, Pee Wee! Feeling good too!

There is a lot satisfying about a whisper thin wood shaving whisking out of the top of a hand plane for sure, but watching this planer automatically adjust thickness precisely to .000", is satisfying too! Especially after years of cranking a giant wheel of some sort to adjust thickness. Not a lot of room for hand plane work in the commercial work we do in our shop, but agree, that the most accomplished woodworkers are so because they understand the time and the place for each.

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Thu Jan 09, 2020 10:52 am Dan,

Interested to see how you're going to transition those reverse chines at their forward end. Did you taper them in that same milling operation or will that happen later?

The kerfing at the end allowed the straight section to begin the bend in the last 18' or so.

Posted: **Wed Jan 29, 2020 7:12 pm**

Way to adapt and move forward. Speaks well of your character!

Posted: **Sun Feb 02, 2020 7:39 pm**

Eric1 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 29, 2020 7:12 pm Way to adapt and move forward. Speaks well of your character!

I appreciate that, but I wish character was that easy. A mentor taught me that it is imperative to come out on the other side of challenge, in better position than where you expected to be.

Bent the port side froward rail in place the other night. Shaped it in place with a borrowed power plane, and fine tuned with spoke shave and block plane.

Will glue these in place, then fillet and cover with 10oz.

Posted: **Mon Feb 03, 2020 9:24 am**

Nice work Dan!!!! Jeff

Posted: **Sun Feb 09, 2020 7:18 pm**

Thank you as always, Jeff!

Good advice from the boys on another thread made me to think enough to break out the big clamps. Got the chine rails glued in place on both sides. Glued onto a wet layer of 12oz, with a generous helping of wood flour thickened epoxy between the cloth and the rail.

Used a few screws forward on the spray rails, but drilled out the holes after removing the screws, and will plug with epoxy and a dowel.

Posted: **Sun Feb 09, 2020 7:39 pm**

Very nice work, clean and fair.

Posted: **Sun Feb 16, 2020 2:16 pm**

Man, I've been messing with these for nearly 6 weeks. Glad to have them glassed over. Reid, the 10oz. was perfect. It laid nicely over a small radius on the corner, <3/8" I believe.

Voids around them were filled with woodflour/cabosil thickened epoxy after wetting, before glassing. Happy with the way they are turning out.

Finished off the weekend with a thin coat of micro-balloons/glass spheres on both bottom sides, and a neat coat over the white oak skeg.

Most pics are from the starboard side, just because of better lighting on that side in the garage. Last pic is port side forward, where the spray rail tapers to nothing.

Estimating 24% complete...

Posted: **Mon Feb 17, 2020 7:12 am**

Looks great Dan!

Posted: **Mon Feb 17, 2020 9:41 am**

Nice Dan!!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Feb 17, 2020 9:14 pm**

Thanks gents. Full send on fairing now.

Plan is to focus on getting bottom panels ready for primer, the. Apply rub rail, the. Prep sides for primer.

Transom, I believe, is all but ready, just needs a lick with 80–>120.

Posted: **Mon Feb 17, 2020 9:27 pm**

Way to power through it Dan, nicely done!

Posted: **Wed Mar 04, 2020 4:13 pm**

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Mon Feb 17, 2020 9:27 pm Way to power through it Dan, nicely done!

Only way to go! Still pushing when I can!

I'm calling the bottom ready for primer.

After some internet consultation, I addressed a slight hook at the transom with strips of 10 oz, and thickened epoxy. I'll sleep better knowing it's more flat than it was.

Smoothing in the forward ends of the spray rails is working well, but going to leave them alone until I fair the sides, which will be after I glass the upper panels, which will be after I apply the rub rails. Rub rails are cut, but need to be laminated to the hull.

Alexseal color cards are on the way!

Posted: **Wed Mar 11, 2020 9:06 pm**

Rub rails and upper side panel glass this week.

Made some efforts to do away with the little bit of dip at the bow by modifying the rub rails and holding them low (while upside down). This will require adding material back to the bottom side of the rub rail so the top and bottom edges remain parallel. It's the little things, I believe, that make a boat sexy, and worth the effort.

Cut strips of okuome, the top edge of which match the contour of the top edge of of the upper side panel, and offset in 1-3/4".

Pre-wet all surfaces with neat, then laminated with wood flour thickened epoxy, held in place with spring clamps.

Greasy fillet of more peanut butter on the bottom edge, then laid 10oz side panel on the wet fillet, lapping the bottom of the 3/4" thick applied rub rail.

Did the port side rub rail and glass in 3.5 hours on Sunday. Did a 2 hour after dinner sesh in the garage for the starboard yesterday; trimmed the excess off green this morning.

I'm optimistic fairing the sides is going to go more quickly than fairing the bottom. No ladder required anyway.

Time will tell...

Dangerously close to ordering primer, Jeff!

Posted: **Thu Mar 12, 2020 8:05 am**

Looking really nice Dan!! Great progress!! Jeff

Posted: **Thu Mar 26, 2020 4:01 pm**

Jeff wrote: ↑Thu Mar 12, 2020 8:05 am Looking really nice Dan!! Great progress!! Jeff

Thank you as always, Jeff!

Only fairing and vacuuming at this point.

, but down to places like this, and working on the shape of the stem. All progress...

Interested in opinions though, does it look like more fairing material on here than normal? This is the sum of 3-4 light (I think

) targeted coats.

Posted: **Fri Mar 27, 2020 10:21 am**

I think it's fine.

Posted: **Fri Mar 27, 2020 3:11 pm**

Eric1 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 27, 2020 10:21 am I think it's fine.

If the Zen Master of sanding thinks you are "fine" Then you are golden maybe better than golden

Posted: **Fri Mar 27, 2020 3:37 pm**

Dan she is looking great. How are the Dura Blocks?

Posted: **Mon Mar 30, 2020 5:13 pm**

Capt UB wrote: ↑Fri Mar 27, 2020 3:37 pm Dan she is looking great. How are the Dura Blocks?

Thanks, Cap'n!

I wouldn't want to fair without this 16" Dura Block.

This weekend I made the switch from 40 grit to 80, and stepped down to a softer 3"x9" hand pad, and it too seems to be imperative.

Posted: **Tue Mar 31, 2020 8:03 pm**

Working my way towards the rub rails with a softer fairing compound.

Posted: **Wed Apr 01, 2020 9:04 am**

Glad to see things progressing for you Dan, looking great, keep it up!

Jeff

Posted: **Wed Apr 01, 2020 10:38 am**

Nice work Dan!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Apr 14, 2020 4:48 pm**

If there are any more spots that need attention, I'm going to let the primer show them to me.

In the meantime, I'm scratching my head about strakes.

Easy, I believe, to add a few straight ones as drawn in the plans, but I'd like to bring the tips of them all the way forward which requires some bendi-ness.

The head scratching will continue...

Thanks to all for answering my questions when I hi-jack threads.

Posted: **Tue Apr 14, 2020 5:49 pm**

Look above in FS-17ls page 8. I built spray rails with this method and they worked very well. Right out of the mould they are very flexible.

Posted: **Tue Apr 14, 2020 8:15 pm**

Fuzz wrote: ↑Tue Apr 14, 2020 5:49 pm Look above in FS-17ls page 8. I built spray rails with this method and they worked very well. Right out of the mould they are very flexible.

Thanks Fuzz. I'm looking for that post but haven't found it yet.

After laying this template in place, your method has me thinking though.

I might be able to use the template as a mold on the hull, and fill the bottom side, on the high side anyway, with thickened epoxy, then fill in the void between were the template met the hull on the low side, and the newly created dam.

Or, revert to shaping some solid wood.

Posted: **Tue Apr 14, 2020 9:09 pm**

Here in builders power boats, third thing down is tech supports build of an fs17ls Page 8 close to the bottom.
https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.ph ... 1&start=70

Posted: **Tue Apr 14, 2020 9:38 pm**

Fuzz wrote: ↑Tue Apr 14, 2020 9:09 pm Here in builders power boats, third thing down is tech supports build of an fs17ls Page 8 close to the bottom.
https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.ph ... 1&start=70

Great thread, Fuzz! Thanks for the link.

Posted: **Wed Apr 15, 2020 12:41 pm**

If you want them curved, you will have to laminate something. It is much easier to run them straight and besides a little better spray deflection, I see no other benefit.

Posted: **Wed Apr 15, 2020 4:29 pm**

jacquesmm wrote: ↑Wed Apr 15, 2020 12:41 pm If you want them curved, you will have to laminate something. It is much easier to run them straight and besides a little better spray deflection, I see no other benefit.

Easier is fine at this point. I'm looking forward to primer!

Posted: **Sat Apr 25, 2020 8:50 pm**

Simplified strake profile adopted and glued in place x4.

Aft quarter spray rails shaped, scribed to fit and and glued in place. I was expecting this portion of the hull to be relatively straight, but had to scribe about 3/8" in the middle to get them to sit tight to the hull. I think they look good. Intend to finish them bright.

Everything glued down this weekend will get a quick, (I hope), once or twice over with fairing compound, then ready for primer.

Posted: **Tue May 19, 2020 3:45 pm**

I hope this is my last post before the boat changes color with a coat of primer!

She's pretty fair overall, but need some primer to show me where I've missed. Blocked with up to 80 grit at this point. Will take it up to 150 before spreading primer.

Posted: **Wed May 20, 2020 10:50 am**

Looking great, Dan, you're a workhorse! Looking forward to the primer "revelation".

Jeff

Posted: **Wed May 20, 2020 10:58 am**

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Wed May 20, 2020 10:50 am Looking great, Dan, you're a workhorse! Looking forward to the primer "revelation".

Jeff

It's a bit of an obsession.

Slow and steady is all I've got.

Posted: **Wed May 20, 2020 3:16 pm**

If you leave the strakes bright you will probably need to redo them in five or ten years. I did a skeg only. Got glass and may get a strip of UHMWPE.

Posted: **Thu May 28, 2020 3:59 am**

How is it going with the glass removal? On reflection I would have been removing all the glass I’m unsure about: anywhere that dry erase marker has been. 2” overlaps on the patch and the shear bond strength of epoxy is equivalent to the glass: no strength loss.

Posted: **Thu May 28, 2020 5:08 pm**

OneWayTraffic wrote: ↑Thu May 28, 2020 3:59 am How is it going with the glass removal? On reflection I would have been removing all the glass I’m unsure about: anywhere that dry erase marker has been. 2” overlaps on the patch and the shear bond strength of epoxy is equivalent to the glass: no strength loss.

Thanks for checking in!

Ground down to all visible air bubbles, wet coat with neat, laid strips of 12oz biax in the deepest and widest areas, then skim coated with a mix of chopped stands and cabosil. Faired it all in, and I think I am back to normal.

Then, celebrated with fried redfish and the smoothest hazy IPA in the universe.

I appreciate the advice. Yall talked me down off the ledge.

Posted: **Thu May 28, 2020 8:33 pm**

What's the brewery for the Falcon Smash?

Posted: **Thu May 28, 2020 10:37 pm**

cape man wrote: ↑Thu May 28, 2020 8:33 pm What's the brewery for the Falcon Smash?

Triple Crossing. Here in Richmond.

Posted: **Thu May 28, 2020 11:58 pm**

Good idea to make sure the inside has good glass over the same area as the patches.

Build on I suppose.

Posted: **Fri May 29, 2020 7:23 am**

Great looking dinner Dan!!! Nice progress as well!!! Jeff

Posted: **Wed Jun 10, 2020 8:29 am**

Seems like a milestone...

Block sanded with 120 before applying 2 successive coats of high build primer. Only have coated the transom, and starboard bottom half and side. Used a quart kit mixing 1:1 to get both coats. Best results rolling came from using a 1/8" nap foam West System roller.

Let it cure overnight, then block sanded with 180. For the most part, it feels beautiful. The low spots show themselves as stippling left behind from from the roller.

I think the best thing to do is to hit these with skim coats of fairing compound, then block sand in preparation for surfacing primer.

Posted: **Wed Jun 10, 2020 8:50 am**

Great milestone Dan, congrats!!! Jeff

Posted: **Wed Jun 10, 2020 8:56 am**

Thanks Jeff! The other side is still green and purple!

Posted: **Sun Jun 28, 2020 4:14 pm**

In the race to flip, I am focusing solely on the bottom. Mostly focusing on the bottom just because I want to keep moving, knowing a diy paint job could easily turn into a 2 month ordeal for me. Objectively, if I were to paint the transom with the sides, eventually I'm going to have to tie in the motor well sides, which would require touch up; might as well just paint it all at once sometime in the future.

3 coats of high build primer have been spread and sanded with 220, pretty much everywhere on sides and bottom. Bottom now has 3 coats of S3 Yacht Primer, rolled on in succession, with a hour or two in between for the previous coat to dry to the touch. These Wooster Pro roller covers did very well.

Primer initially rolled on fairly thin with lots of bubbles,

but most of them quickly dissipated and leveled themselves out.

I'm optimistic these coats will sand out well with 320, anticipating a few spots that need attention with additional fairing compound. I took the plunge last week and bought a quart of Awl Fair. Certainly not the cheapest option, but I'm always curious to see what is special about materials that are consistently recommended by professionals. I used a little bit of it. It's red, so that's a difference. The little bit I used seemed to go on a little more smoothly, maybe even a little less viscous than some of the other brands I've tried. All that to say, I think this should help me make short work of the few remaining low spots.

Hope to buy some paint this week! Looking at bright whites for the bottom, Fleet White or Stark White, but not quite sure yet.

Originally, I anticipated flipping by March.

, but getting done in July is looking pretty good.

Posted: **Mon Jun 29, 2020 10:34 pm**

Looking good. I was at one stage thinking I might flip it the first summer.

Don't spend too much time worrying about the bottom; you'll never see it after the flip.

Posted: **Tue Jun 30, 2020 7:33 am**

Nice Dan!!! Jeff

Posted: **Thu Jul 09, 2020 8:54 pm**

A few spots sanded through. Ordered paint for the bottom, but shipping was delayed for a week, and will arrive while we're out of town.

Its been a good opportunity fill a few spots with Awl Fair, and sand more. Skimmed lightly and sanded more which got rid of most of the guide powder seen in the pic. It feels good...

All has been sanded with 320. Will coat with fresh coat of primer before spreading top coat.

Posted: **Fri Jul 10, 2020 4:28 am**

Looking very good!!

Posted: **Fri Jul 10, 2020 11:25 am**

I had a few sand thru areas with my primer or at least you could see through it a little. I think if there is a thin layer of primer you should still be okay. I went ahead and topcoated mine and it looks good. No issues that I have seen nor are there any variations in the topcoat color.

Posted: **Fri Jul 10, 2020 8:39 pm**

Thanks, Gents!

FD, I appreciate the advice. Yours turned out great. A few spots are more exposed more than I think is fine, and it's a good opportunity to get products in line, prepping for Alexseal top coat!

Posted: **Sat Jul 11, 2020 7:10 am**

Very nice!

Posted: **Tue Jul 28, 2020 8:47 pm**

The priming saga continues...

I used the necessity of more primer as the opportunity to get the paint products in line with what I'm using for top coat.

I feel like the S3 epoxy primer is a great seal/barrier coat, but this Alexseal finish primer will make a comfortable substrate for Alexseal 501 top coat. After a hose down wash, the S3 shows a smooth even surface which I believe is ready for finishing.

I tried to skimp, and only bought a quart of primer, including 1:1 converter = 2 quarts of material. With this I got 2.5 good coats, rolled. Sanded with 320 over quide coat and quickly broke through in several areas. After a Friday evening beer I resolved to buy a gallon of surfacing primer, and sand to as near as perfection as possible with 120 to prep for 3 or 4 solid, sprayed, coats. Gallon of primer and gallon of converter will be here tomorrow, and hop to get it all laid down and sanded before the weekend to spray top coat.

Lessons learned...?

Don't skimp on material. Get plenty of primer. Use guide coat religiously and let it tell you when it's time to apply the next layer. Also learned, 120 grit on a block is great prep for primer, sand surfacing primer with 320 with a DA is what is needed in prep for paint. I hope...

Posted: **Tue Jul 28, 2020 11:11 pm**

I'm about to be back at the torcher board myself. I think this time, I may put 4 to 5 coats of primer on before I sand. The key is to get it thick enough. Seems like I just kept sanding off the primer.

Posted: **Wed Jul 29, 2020 7:56 am**

FluidDynamic wrote: ↑Tue Jul 28, 2020 11:11 pm I'm about to be back at the torcher board myself. I think this time, I may put 4 to 5 coats of primer on before I sand. The key is to get it thick enough. Seems like I just kept sanding off the primer.

You might want to try high build. I wonder though if it will be better over the S3 rather than under.

But you're right, 4-5 coats of every layer to provide enough substrate to level with out breaking through. Nothing more frustrating than filling up the shop vac with expensive primer, only roll it back on and do it all over again.

Posted: **Wed Jul 29, 2020 10:26 am**

FluidDynamic wrote: ↑Tue Jul 28, 2020 11:11 pm I'm about to be back at the torcher board myself. I think this time, I may put 4 to 5 coats of primer on before I sand. The key is to get it thick enough. Seems like I just kept sanding off the primer.

No no no.

The epoxy primers are much harder than fairing compounds. And a 2 mil paint build is 0.002" thick.

Much better to evaluate with closed eyes and fingers. Walk the hull and feel for deviations. Then put a trowel edge over those areas to determine fill needs.

Posted: **Wed Jul 29, 2020 10:46 pm**

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Wed Jul 29, 2020 7:56 amNothing more frustrating than filling up the shop vac with expensive primer, only roll it back on and do it all over again.

I didn't spend a ton on my primer but felt the same frustration in drying time. Each stroke of the sandpaper felt like it was costing me another week. Hang in there; boat will be right-side up before you know it and this will all be a distant memory/recurring shoulder pain.

Posted: **Sun Aug 02, 2020 1:51 pm**

Man it has been a slog getting primer to a point that I was happy with, all in preparation to spray a few coats of Alexseal Stark White. On the bottom...

I sprayed 4 coats of Alexseal finish primer, then machine and block sanded guide coat with 320. This material was easy to sand, and left a silky, uniform surface.

Gave her a bath and lightly scrubbed with a scotch brite pad.

Started as early as possible this morning in a 81 degree garage. Mixed 24 oz of paint, and added 6 oz of slow reducer, for a mix of 1:1:.5.

Coverage was beautiful on the bottom, but when I got to the bow I got a little cocky with the thin material and got a few runs on the bow.

Best advice I got was to keep on spraying and deal with them later, so that's what I'm going to do. I imagine fixing a run will involve a razor blade and some 800 grit or finer paper. I'm open for suggestions. Also, have a number of dust nibs and some overspray. Might try to deal with them or just live with it. It’s the bottom. Right?

Overall, I think it will work, and hope to be ready to flip next weekend.

Posted: **Sun Aug 02, 2020 11:14 pm**

No matter what I tried a little dust was present. Short of a controlled environment, i think most people end up with some dust. Looks great.

Posted: **Mon Aug 03, 2020 2:11 am**

Little dust or not it sure looks good.

Posted: **Mon Aug 03, 2020 9:47 am**

Be a shame to flip that boat over with the bottom looking that good!

Did you have experience with a sprayer before this?

Posted: **Mon Aug 03, 2020 11:41 am**

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Mon Aug 03, 2020 9:47 am Be a shame to flip that boat over with the bottom looking that good!

Did you have experience with a sprayer before this?

Good point Jeff! Hoping the fish will like it!

I’ve sprayed a few things before. Painted cabinets and such. I used the nicest gun our shop has, and picked a lot of brains about how to shoot it. Alexseal has comprehensive product information about mixing as well as a local sales rep that is as reachable as the guys at BBC. Product, I think, is exceptional to shoot.

Posted: **Mon Aug 03, 2020 1:01 pm**

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Mon Aug 03, 2020 11:41 am I’ve sprayed a few things before. Painted cabinets and such. I used the nicest gun our shop has, and picked a lot of brains about how to shoot it. Alexseal has comprehensive product information about mixing as well as a local sales rep that is as reachable as the guys at BBC. Product, I think, is exceptional to shoot.

Well I know all too well that paint-job photos can be deceiving but that does look exceptional, nicely done.

Posted: **Mon Aug 03, 2020 1:23 pm**

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Mon Aug 03, 2020 1:01 pm
Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Mon Aug 03, 2020 11:41 am I’ve sprayed a few things before. Painted cabinets and such. I used the nicest gun our shop has, and picked a lot of brains about how to shoot it. Alexseal has comprehensive product information about mixing as well as a local sales rep that is as reachable as the guys at BBC. Product, I think, is exceptional to shoot.
Well I know all too well that paint-job photos can be deceiving but that does look exceptional, nicely done.

There is some deception. Some haze at spray overlap, bugs, dust, dog hair, etc... garage things.

But overall it will pass. Thanks for the compliments.

Posted: **Mon Aug 03, 2020 8:16 pm**

Looks more better than good Dan!

Posted: **Wed Aug 05, 2020 9:32 am**

Looks great!

Posted: **Wed Aug 05, 2020 3:29 pm**

I'm jealous.

Posted: **Fri Aug 07, 2020 4:22 pm**

Thank you all! Once all of you have shown me the potential of what these boats can become, I have no choice but to try to keep up!

Shes flipped! 10-1/2 months after the jig hit the floor.

https://youtu.be/5yI20HjukE0

A group of bros braved the most torrential downpour of the summer, which cleared as all arrived. I fueled them with pizza and local beer, and we got it done in about 20 minutes. Utilized the soft grass on the uphill side of our driveway.

This is a WIIIIIIIIIIDE 19 footer for sure!

Back into the garage, facing the other way for round 2!

Posted: **Fri Aug 07, 2020 6:18 pm**

Massive milestone, congrats! It does look Uuge!

Inside glass and stringers next?

Posted: **Fri Aug 07, 2020 6:33 pm**

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Fri Aug 07, 2020 6:18 pm Massive milestone, congrats! It does look Uuge!

Inside glass and stringers next?

Yeap! Think so!

Posted: **Fri Aug 07, 2020 9:35 pm**

They always seem to look bigger after they are flipped. When you have to climb in and out to glass the interior it will really feel big.

Posted: **Sat Aug 08, 2020 1:01 am**

Wow, that boat looks BIG!

My 'little' boat is only 22' x 8' - looks smaller than that one. Funny how looks can deceive!

Build on!

Posted: **Sat Aug 08, 2020 6:37 am**

Congrats!!! Great milestone!!! Jeff

Posted: **Sat Aug 08, 2020 7:24 am**

Browndog wrote: ↑Fri Aug 07, 2020 9:35 pm They always seem to look bigger after they are flipped. When you have to climb in and out to glass the interior it will really feel big.

Only for the next 12 months or so.

BarraMan wrote: ↑Sat Aug 08, 2020 1:01 am Wow, that boat looks BIG!

My 'little' boat is only 22' x 8' - looks smaller than that one. Funny how looks can deceive!

8’ unusually wide on a 19’, but we will appreciate the extra hip room between the console and the gunwales. I bet a 22x8 will run more efficiently though.

Posted: **Sat Aug 08, 2020 3:24 pm**

Is the transom cut for a 20 or a 25 inch shaft? Looks like a deep cut out from here.

Posted: **Sat Aug 08, 2020 4:19 pm**

Fuzz wrote: ↑Sat Aug 08, 2020 3:24 pm Is the transom cut for a 20 or a 25 inch shaft? Looks like a deep cut out from here.

I agree! It does look deep. i.e. too close to the water. It’s cut out per plans but I’ve been contemplating how to contend with the transom.

Earlier today I was looking at it considering adding 5” and commit myself to a long shaft outboard.

Posted: **Sat Aug 08, 2020 5:23 pm**

That boat looks like an offshore boat to me and I would want at least a 25 inch for it. No idea of what you have planned for it.

Posted: **Sat Aug 08, 2020 5:40 pm**

Fuzz wrote: ↑Sat Aug 08, 2020 5:23 pm That boat looks like an offshore boat to me and I would want at least a 25 inch for it. No idea of what you have planned for it.

Yeah man. I’m sold. Inshore and near shore for me and this boat.

21” from the keel to the bottom of the cut out. Transom is unfinished so adding won’t hurt too much.

Thanks for talking me into it!

Posted: **Sat Aug 08, 2020 5:41 pm**

Posted: **Sun Aug 16, 2020 11:18 am**

Taping inside seams. 2 layers on the chines, 3 at the keel, all set in green wood flour fillets. Learning to let the fillets cure longer than I might think is acceptable. Kind of hard to tell, but in the last pic of the transom there is a layer of cloth on the transom under the transom clamp. Happy to have saved the cutoffs from when I glassed the outside of the transom, they fit perfectly with little trimming under the clamp!

Undecided about transom modification. Can see the potential benefits, but not sure I have the stomach for the work.

Fillets, it seems, would be best laid using fast epoxy, even though I'm using slow to wet out the tapes. I had concerns about mixing hardener types on top of one another, but I've since been told that this is not a problem.

Cutting big sheets of glass today.

Posted: **Sun Aug 16, 2020 11:54 am**

I like my fillet resin to be thick enough to not sag, but uncured enough to 'grab' the tape.

If my laminating fails, it won't be my tape seams.

Posted: **Mon Aug 17, 2020 1:33 am**

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Sat Aug 08, 2020 5:40 pm
Fuzz wrote: ↑Sat Aug 08, 2020 5:23 pm That boat looks like an offshore boat to me and I would want at least d25 inch for it. No idea of what you have planned for it.
Yeah man. I’m sold. Inshore and near shore for me and this boat.

21” from the keel to the bottom of the cut out. Transom is unfinished so adding won’t hurt too much.

Thanks for talking me into it!

I would not worry about it. It is set for a 20" shaft motor and unless you are going far off shore it is not a big deal. To rebuild it up to 25" would require a major rebuild of the transom. With multiple boards and fiberglass added from across the total width of transom to support the boards added to raise the level in the cut out and you will need to build up the side boards. Remember Jacques designs his boats with a bulkhead ahead of the motor to prevent water from coming in from the stern. I know of at least of a couple guys that built to plans that went far off shore and had no problems. Jim W who built the first C19 routinely went far off shore and caught marlin and mahi. He put a 115 Yamaha on his boat.

Posted: **Mon Aug 17, 2020 8:03 pm**

TomW1 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 17, 2020 1:33 am To rebuild it up to 25" would require a major rebuild of the transom. With multiple boards and fiberglass added from across the total width of transom to support the boards added to raise the level in the cut out and you will need to build up the side boards. Remember Jacques designs his boats with a bulkhead ahead of the motor to prevent water from coming in from the stern. I know of at least of a couple guys that built to plans that went far off shore and had no problems. Jim W who built the first C19 routinely went far off shore and caught marlin and mahi. He put a 115 Yamaha on his boat.

The best way to describe what it will take rhymes with duckery.

I’ve messaged back and forth with Jim a bit and his run in his C19 is impressive.

If I keep the momentum going on glassing I’ll pass on the modification, but give a little time to think about I could dive right in.

Posted: **Mon Aug 31, 2020 8:56 am**

No transom mods yet. Keeping progress moving on the inside.

After tapes went down, I laid out all of the interior fiberglass, cut to size, marked edges with a sharpie, and rolled each back up on a roll.

Last weekend, I laid the side and bottom panels on the starboard side. I didn't let the neat coat kick as much as I should have which caused a handful of bubbles I believe were caused by out gassing. Nothing too terrible. I ground out a few and filled with cabosil and chopped strands.

To avoid the same on the port side, I rolled the neat coat the night before, then started in the morning with wood flour thickened epoxy to smooth over rough edges and any remaining holes or imperfections on the inside of the plywood. Ate breakfast, and unrolled each sheet in place. I pinned the side panel sheet up and out of the way, and focused on the lap of the bottom panel at the chine. Had I tried to wet out both sheets at the chine, I surely would have run into bubbles caused by sheets not bedding tight into the corner. Both panels were wet out together. It took about 2 hours, 200 oz of slow cure MarinEpoxy.

I have a few bubbles on this side, but I think they are from little clumps of wood flour that got hard before I could push them flat under the the glass. Will grind and fill as needed.

Time to drag the stringers out and neat coat the bottoms of each.

Posted: **Mon Aug 31, 2020 11:18 am**

Things look good. I think you ought to live with a few paint flaws as am I. The thing I am battling now is a bad back and my hulls are outside and taking on all our damnable rain. My hulls have a few places that are wet as hell and even some leakdowns into areas supposed to be watertight.

Sigh.

In 8 weeks it'll all freeze.

Your boat looks good.

I like to run a smear of cabosil on high tape edges before glassing. I have done enough of the work to know where to expect air entrapment.

I am so curious about the c19s I want to go find some in the gallery now.

Posted: **Mon Aug 31, 2020 12:24 pm**

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 31, 2020 11:18 am
Your boat looks good.

I like to run a smear of cabosil on high tape edges before glassing. I have done enough of the work to know where to expect air entrapment.

I am so curious about the c19s I want to go find some in the gallery now.

Thank you, Dan! I did the same with thickened wood flour on the tape edges. 2 layers of 12oz with jagged edges can easily trap air I believe.

I like the C19 because it has the classic center console lines. I know Jim Wright built a beautiful version that is still performing well, and I'm a little partial to the one Welleflicker built a few years ago. http://gallery.bateau2.com/index.php?cat=13680

It is a wide 19' at 96", but will perform well here in the Chesapeake Bay.

Posted: **Mon Aug 31, 2020 8:21 pm**

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Mon Aug 31, 2020 12:24 pm
fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 31, 2020 11:18 am
Your boat looks good.

I like to run a smear of cabosil on high tape edges before glassing. I have done enough of the work to know where to expect air entrapment.

I am so curious about the c19s I want to go find some in the gallery now.
Thank you, Dan! I did the same with thickened wood flour on the tape edges. 2 layers of 12oz with jagged edges can easily trap air I believe.

I like the C19 because it has the classic center console lines. I know Jim Wright built a beautiful version that is still performing well, and I'm a little partial to the one Welleflicker built a few years ago. http://gallery.bateau2.com/index.php?cat=13680

It is a wide 19' at 96", but will perform well here in the Chesapeake Bay.

Your C19 will serve you well. I wish Jim W hadn't taken down his posts and photo's, he thought they were to old after 20+ years. He had pictures of a Marlin he caught and Mahi well off shore from Jacksonville. His boat was powered by a 115 4ST Yamaha and could reach the low 40's at WOT. I think the C19 is great boat for medium conditions and yet if you need to can get you out of trouble, I know the CB can kick up fast at times.

Posted: **Mon Aug 31, 2020 8:55 pm**

TomW1 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 31, 2020 8:21 pm
Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Mon Aug 31, 2020 12:24 pm
fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 31, 2020 11:18 am
Your C19 will serve you well. I wish Jim W hadn't taken down his posts and photo's, he thought they were to old after 20+ years. He had pictures of a Marlin he caught and Mahi well off shore from Jacksonville. His boat was powered by a 115 4ST Yamaha and could reach the low 40's at WOT. I think the C19 is great boat for medium conditions and yet if you need to can get you out of trouble, I know the CB can kick up fast at times.
Can’t leave our TomTom and his rig. All the bright work he did looks right at home on his C19 and also has some billfish under his belt.

Posted: **Mon Aug 31, 2020 11:00 pm**

A mod to 25" wouldn't be all that hard, not compared to the total amount of work that has gone in it. Messing up the faired outside of the transom would be the biggie. As an alternative you could get a little fixed jackplate.

Posted: **Tue Sep 01, 2020 7:08 am**

Last week I shipped the Bob’s Machine Shop manual jackplate that I took off of the FS19 that I built to Dan. He just received it. I traded it to him for a fishing trip on the Bay for my brother and I. Looking forward to Dan’s progress and to some fishing at the Bay Bridge Tunnel for Rockfish at some point with him in his newly finished boat.

Keep it up Dan! Go Dan!

Posted: **Tue Sep 01, 2020 8:04 am**

Browndog wrote: ↑Tue Sep 01, 2020 7:08 am Last week I shipped the Bob’s Machine Shop manual jackplate that I took off of the FS19 that I built to Dan. He just received it. I traded it to him for a fishing trip on the Bay for my brother and I. Looking forward to Dan’s progress and to some fishing at the Bay Bridge Tunnel for Rockfish at some point with him in his newly finished boat.

Keep it up Dan! Go Dan!

These 3 smiley faces represent Jordy, his brother and I holding up 26” sheepshead at the CBBT.

Thank you again sir! We’re moving!